Camry :: 2002 Started Dying At A Stop And Would Not Idle Above 1000 RPM
Aug 3, 2013
My 02 camry recently started dying at a stop and would not idle above 1000 rpm. I cleaned the throttle body(very dirty) and the car started right up idling at about 1500-2000 rpm i walked away for a minute and came by to drive it and no acceleration would come as well as when i start it up now it just goes back to idle at about 500 rpm.
I am not sure what the problem may be, my air filter box is not on properly I am going back to the car to tighten it down today but i highly doubt it will fix anything. I also read something about the computer needing reset, if i go and unhook the batter for 30 min and hook it back up will the computer reset and possibly fix my acceleration problem?
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Bought a 2001 from a used car dealership about 2 months ago. A week later it started acting funny. It would often race the rpm's about 2000 when at at stop light and then others times would act like I was out of gas when I would take off. Sputtered and then finally run normally. Then other times it wouldn't start and just crank over and over. After 10-15 times it would fire up and then act like nothing was wrong. It was a total crap shoot whether it would start or not each time.
Took it back to dealership and supposedly their mechanic installed a new fuel pump. Ran like a champ for about another two weeks and then exact same symptoms started showing up.
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This is my brother's 02 SE. 140k miles. 4cyl. He claims that the car is beginning to idle rough when he is stopped at a stop light and the AC is on. If i replace the spark plugs should that do it? I'm pretty sure it doesn't have spark plug wires cus that's what my dealer parts dept said. Motor mounts were replaced around 70k if that matters. The vibration is directly related to the AC being on.
I am also going to replace the serp. belt because there's a belt squeak when the motor is cold.
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For the past month or so, my 2002 Kia Sedona has been stalling/dying whenever I stop at lights or signs. We've gotten the alternator fixed, gotten a new battery, replaced the ignition coils, but still have the same problem. A friend of mine says that there is probably an issue with the idle air control valve and suggests I replace it. Looking online, it seems like I can possibly just clean it out, but I don't know where to begin. Where exactly is the IAC valve and is replacing/cleaning it a basic DIY job?
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My 2002 F-150 with the 5.4 has an issue with a high rev (1000 RPM for a few seconds) while at a stop sign, along with a clunking/banging sound coming from under the truck. This is when I have the brake mashed all the way, and this all happens at the same time, almost every time I come to a stop at a stop sign or light. I do have an intake manifold leak, which i have recently determined, but I do not know if the high rev at a stop sign has to do with the manifold leak or to do with the transmission sounding thump I hear. Could this be a torque converter not unlocking, and then suddenly unlocking? Because after the thump sound, the RPM's go down to around 650 from 1000 every time.
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My Echo died on me this morning and would not restart. I was at a light at the time. I pushed it aside, waited a bit and it restarted. I made it to work and it died again after several hiccups along the way. It then died in my parking spot but would restart. It has 192k miles on it.
It was acting weird earlier this week in that it would lose power (not electricity) while moving and then continue on. It seemed to work if I gave it more throttle. I feel like its fuel related but I don't have a lot of spare money to guess at the problem unsuccessfully.
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Bought the Camry new in May 2006. Besides the oil hose leak (which a recall fixed), it's been a perfect car.
Fast forward to the present. I needed a brake job, so my master mechanic buddy installed front and rear powerslot rotors and akebono performance pads and flushed my brake fluid. No problems with the brakes.
A few weeks later I wanted to treat my car to a 90K full transmission flush (it's first transmission service). I had it flushed at a local toyota independent shop. They used WS fluid. A few hours later, my transmission which shifted perfectly fine before the flush started shifting weird. I thought the computer had to relearn my wife's driving style. When she brakes hard (if she's going 50 and the light turns yellow and she brakes hard, her car slows down normal, but right before it comes to a complete stop is when the car shakes. She said it started right after the transmission flush.
A few days later when she was at a red light, the car check engine lit up with a check battery (she thinks that's what it said on the screen). When the light turned green, it wouldn't accelerate, but it would roll forward when you let go of the brakes. When she got to a safe place to park/stop she turned off the car. A few minutes later she turned the car back on and it was fine.
I told that to one of my buddies who had something similar happen to him in his 06 Mustang GT, the Ford dealer cleaned his throttle bottle and maf sensor and he was on his way. I had my throttle body and maf cleaned. Now with new brakes, new brake fluid, a flushed transmission, a clean throttle body and maf, I thought everything was good.
On the freeway , the car would not shift to 4th gear or higher. So I exited the freeway, drove the surface streets to a independent Toyota shop. Left the car there all day, they could not find anything wrong. So, right now everything is back to normal except the shaking when you are almost at a complete stop, which started AFTER the transmission flush, what that might be?
To describe the shaking problem, imagine I'm driving 45-50, light turns yellow, I slow down, 50-20 is fine, maybe even 50-15 is fine, but the car shakes right before it fully stops.
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2002 Prius that idles really rough for a min or two when first started. Recently got check engine codes 300, 301, 302, & 303 for misfires. Also have had the red triangle with a 3191 fail to start code. When I get the 3191 it will start after a couple attempts. Mileage has dropped to mid 30's. 227k miles & other than the idle problem the car runs well.
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I had to remove the battery to get at the DS parking bulb. When I reconnected the battery and started the engine the idle did not go way up like normal, but I thought it was because I had removed power from the computer and it needed to relearn my driving. Well the idle was so low it was difficult keeping it running and it did not improve.
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Started the car got out of the parking lot and drove a few feet till it stalled and rolled to a stop. It cranks but would not turn over all the way to drive. Called mechanic to let them know that it would be towed. They asked if it had gas. It has a 1/4 tank. Tow driver asked the same question. I'm wondering if the fuel pump could be the culprit or timing belt. If timing belt than I wonder if the engine could be the bad kind (interference). And of course cost. It has just over 90k miles and it has received regular oil changes but not the recommended services. I'm biking to the mechanic to drop the key off and thought that I would try it again and look under the hood, but I need to know what to look for.
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So lately my 2000 Jetta GLS hasn't been running that smooth I can tell when I'm changing gearing and when I start the car and the car idles around 1000 RPMs. I think it may be the engine miss firing because some times I can feel the car shaking but I have no check engine light. Lucky... Also the coolant is leaking idk what the exact problem is but everywhere I go there is a puddle of coolant under my car.
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I have a 2002 VW passat sometimes at a stop light the car seems to just die, stop, the engine just stops, I have checked/ Replaced the fuel filter, air cleaner, I am stuck.
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After 90K miles of using Castrol 5W30 dyno and changing it every 3-3.5K miles , I have just changed to 0W40 Mobil Synthetic. I have a 2002 Passat V6 automatic tip . I am hoping to have a smoother idle at stop lights .
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I have a 2002 Camry L4 and when ever the car is started it makes a knocking noise. The engine turns off unless I press the gas pedal. This all started after I changed the valve cover gasket myself. I had to change the gasket because the oil had started leaking. I changed the gasket after about 6 months because I wasn't sure what the problem was. The car has about 120,000 miles on it and I have never had this engine rebuilt.
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I have 120K on my 2004 V6 and have been driving with the Exhaust light on steady for about 1000 miles. Tonight after filling up at my usual Chevron with Techron Premium gas station, my engine started stalling and I lurched the 2 miles home. I took off the gas cap to see if reclosing it changed things and it did not. I had the coil pack recall work done 30K miles ago. I'm thinking fuel pump, having it towed to the shop?
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I have a 2002 Honda CRV that recently started to fail on me. I'll be driving and usually in front of a red light (when the car is idle), the car will stop. Luckily, the last time it happened, I was able to get the car to start back up again. Also, the car sometimes won't start (ignition won't start) from when it's been parked. It happened multiple times this past week and the mechanic apparently doesn't know what it is. He cleaned my throttle body, how smooth my car runs now (less shaky) but the problem still persists.
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So this has happened multiple times now. its always when I'm slowing down or at a stop. I have Apr stage 3 software with rfd. I ran the car for codes a couple of weeks ago and there were none. its a little scary since its done it at highway speeds when in neutral and the revs have dropped out. I still have ignition/terminal 15 power but the engine is no longer running. today I was at a stop light and the car died out. it took several attempts cranking it over to get it started, I was in busy traffic and it got a little worrisome. also I'm driving my kid around and can't have this happen anymore. Without any faults I'm not sure where to start since I don't have factory software.
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Trying to figure out if she jumped timing or maybe PCM went out. Car started dying going up hills then stalled out on level road. Found coil pack for #3 and #6 bad and replaced it. Other's arced ok so I left them alone. Didn't work for starting it so I checked the fuel pressure and got 37psi with key on and engine off.What would cause it not to even try to hit? Considering maybe it's jumped timing or the PCM is going out.
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We have owned a 95 Camry V6 for 20 years and it has always been reliable. However, several days ago, the car started to have its first engine performance issue. When we start the engine cold, there was rough idle/engine lope. If it was warmed up for about 5-10 minutes, the car was fine for the entire day. but during this rough idle, the car jerked slightly as well if i press on the gas.
Since the symptom began, I took it to local shop A and they replaced all the spark plugs, pcv valve and air filter which did not solve the rough idle/looping problem. The rough idle continued, and few days later, I was unable to start the engine though it cranks. (at least that's what I think it does). Had it towed to shop B and they've replaced oil pump, which they thought to be the problem. I took it home, and the next morning I found myself unable to start the car.
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Newly acquired 2002 Accord.
At idle and while at a stop, the cabin receives a heavy dose of exhaust fumes (nope, not from the auto in front of me - I'm often alone at stop lights/signs)... what is the most likely culprit?
This did not seem to occur until AFTER I had the timing belt (package) replaced...coincidence
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I bought a 2002 camry xle a couple of days ago. The oil light was flickering so I had the oil change yesterday. I drove it around for a little while and everything was fine. The oil light only came on if I had to hit the brakes harder than normal.
So today I decided to take a drive outside of town and everything was fine until I was going up a hill. The car lost power and the engine started to knock. I was able to get it off the road and shut it down really fast. Decided to check the oil and it was hard to tell where it was at on the dip stick. With the dipstick pulled out I notice that there was steam/smoke coming from the dip stick tube.
After I let it cooled down and waiting for a tow truck to come to the rescue, I tried to start it. It ran for a few seconds and then died. During that time I had no power when pressing the gas and it sounded like it was knocking. It was hard to tell the type of noise it was making. Not one did the oil light, check engine light come on until it stop running.
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