I changed my dogbone mount over the weekend. Did not get a oem but got one from advance auto for 50 bucks. So I noticed a vibration when I'm in reverse or drive. I got some vids of the engine running. Could the cheap mount I got just be causing more vibration than the old one?? Which was cracked?
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I changed combination switch (got from junk yard $40) and added relay (from dealer $24). now plug has power as I turn fog switch lights on/off, but my bumper is solid. there is space but it's solid bumper
1. which fog light to buy?
2. how can I mount securely.
Just bought an 02' camry and the high mount brake light on the spoiler is half burnt out. Tried removing what I'm guessing is an LED assembly but the screws are stuck and the angle is really awkward. Am I going to have to replace the whole LED bar?
View 2 RepliesI had water pump and belt changed by a Toyota Dealer on 2006 4 cyl Camry LE. Now the car idles a little rougher, gas mileage is down by around 20%, and there is some subtle chatter noise.
Before the car would idle quiet (could not hear it from inside car), now it is noisier with a little vibration- both in park and drive. Gas mileage is worse, and I am compensating for winter temps (no snow around). I fill the tank and reset mileage to check. The needle also confirms lower mileage too.
A little noise around belt or pump area but another mechanic said belt tentioner is fine, no need to replace. So what could the dealer have done to cause this? What parts/systems do they operate on? Dealer said car sounds o.k., can't hear anything unusual (of course).Is there anything I can check myself or fix myself? I may try an auto stethoscope when I get one. Just want the old car back. Car has timing chain, no belt.
today I replaced the battery on our 2002 Camry SE 2.4l because it was incredibly slow to crank today...but it did crank. So i get a Duralast Gold to replace a Toyota TrueStart battery, and it started up fine. However, it was idling at 200-400 RPMs, so its already not right. So I drive it a quick mile or so, and when letting off the gas the RPMs drop to 200-400 while going down the street! Coming to a stop, it really wanted to stall out. Couple stops later, it did stall out, and the Check Engine light, Battery light, and Oil light all came on. Trying to restart it it cranked, started, but then immediately died. You know when you start it the RPM needle goes high and then comes down a bit? It does that, but the needle won't stop and it just goes to 0, and throws the Check Engine, battery, and oil light. I finally got it cranked, and all 3 previously mentioned lights are off when its running. It has done it one other time about 3 months ago when I disconnected the negative battery terminal for some work, and it did the same exact thing. It ended up just fixing itself, but obviously not since its rough starting and the problem came back the next time I disconnected the battery.
View 14 RepliesOwn a 2002 Camry 4 cyl with 186K, like it soooo much ,once a day I get something like a missed shift around 20 mph .
I notice that over 65 mph, the RPM's are higher than my other Camry: 65 mph 2450 RPM instead of 2300. 70 RPM 2700 RPM instead of 2450. 75 MPH 2900 RPM instead of 2700.
At 80 MPH drifts between 3000 - 3200 RPM instead of 2800. When idling in park, I heard a whining noise coming from the Trans. I was told it recently had the engine replaced.
I have a klunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they repleced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there -
View 8 RepliesI recently replaced the spark plugs on my 2002 Camry SE V6 (Gen 5). Let me just say that it was INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to reach the rear 3 plugs as they sit underneath the intake manifold, way to the rear of the engine compartment. To reach those, I had to unplug some wires reaching on top of the engine, then loosen the intake manifold.
Along the way I broke a tiny air valve that sits underneath intake manifold, and replaced it right away, before starting the car.
When everything was put back together, the car started wonderfully, only to notice the engine light come on. I had the codes checked at the dealer and they indicated a malfunctioning Catalytic Converter and A/F Sensor and some other emissions stuff. Later that day, the VCS/TRAC OFF light came on as well. The service guy at the dealer said those typically come on together with the Check Engine light, which sounds like something he pulled out of somewhere!
The car drives well, no hesitation, no weird behavior, but has no traction control, naturally. While loosening the manifold I had to use a little force to flex it out of place. My guess is that it I may have yanked something out place: may be a wire issue, or a sensor.
I have a 2002 Toyota Camry LE V6 with codes p1135 and p1155. Both sensors that are supposedly faulty have been replaced.
The new sensors are denso 234-9043 and 234-9047. I am confident that the second one was the right one replaced as both the new and the old had a little green marker(the location is near the firewall.) not 100% sure about the other one.
The sensors were brand new so I don't know what the problem is.
Finally took the Wolf in to see about an engine rattle thats been getting worse. The culprit - loose engine mount bolts! Dealer decided to order new bolts, not just tighten the old ones. Also mentioned a recall for the transmission software. Odd that the "recall" wasn't listed on-line for my VIN. It must be the one that smooths the tranny a bit, it is a bit jumpy at low speed.
View 2 RepliesFor a few months now, I've had a slight rattle coming from my car's front end (2002 V6), but it has been getting louder. The noise is most pronounced at 30+ mph on rough (old) road. Yesterday, I jacked up the front end to do the tie-rod and ball-joint tests. There is no play from either top-bottom or front-back wiggling.
Here's what I did notice while doing those tests:
1. It looks like the hockey-puck sized control arm bushings are cracking. Is there a source for poly replacements (and how much do they effect the car's ride)? Or is there a better-than-OEM rubber replacement?
2. When the cars was jacked up, I could turn the wheels a little bit (maybe a quarter turn while the tranny was in park). There was some noise coming from behind the hub. It sounded like the meshing of gears, or metal parts intercoking with each other. Is this normal? The bearings don't make any noise when it's driving.
Trying to diagnose the below clunk noise as the accelerator is initially pressed?
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If there belt tensioner wobbles like this on a 2azfe? There is a noise as you initially press the accelerator but then disappears. You can hear it in the video. I know there is a tsb on the tensioner but the belt doesn't look like its loosening off.
I own a 2002 Camry XLE 4-cylinder with about 95,000 miles which is in excellent condition and well-maintained. Recently I began to hear a rattle, tapping or knocking sound apparently from the passenger side of the engine compartment (passengers agree with apparent location). It almost sounds like engine knocking, but the times it happens seem to rule that out. It could be some metal vibrating against something, but I can't hear it when I'm under the hood, and nothing appears loose. I've taken it to my trusted independent mechanic, but he couldn't duplicate the sound driving for 15-20 minutes on the freeway or see anything wrong when put on a lift. The sound doesn't occur all the time, of course; that'd be too easy.
The noise begins:
-after I've been driving 15 minutes or more
-after the car gets above 45-50 MPH, but when the noise finally begins, it will then occur down to as low as 30 MPH.
Last weekend I drove 1000 miles roundtrip on the freeway at 65-80 MPH; it didn't begin for 30 minutes, but continued most of the way to my destination (5.5 more hours), though it did seem to stop a few times. This week, my 20 minute drive to work, which has about 10 minutes on the freeway at 65, has not caused the noise to happen once.
Characteristics of the problem:
-the noise is not related to RPM; once it begins, it is about the same frequency and volume at 30 MPH as at 80 MPH
-it doesn't occur when in park or neutral and idling, even if the engine is revved, and even if the noise was just occurring on the freeway moments before
-it doesn't change when running over rough pavement or in turns
-it doesn't change when regular gas is replaced with premium (tried this last week to rule out engine knock, though the lack of RPM affecting it probably ruled that out already).
So it seems like it may be related to the speed of the car and perhaps the temperature of the engine or compartment. The hood latch appears to be holding tight with no play, the strut mounts were replaced 10K ago, and the wheel bearings check out fine.
2002 Camry, Automatic Transmission
Have an occasional problem. When shifting from park to drive/reverse, I occasionally get a loud, brief (1 -2 seconds) rattling noise from the engine compartment. It's my daughter's car so not sure yet if this is a cold start only issue or if present after car has been driven, then stopped and re-started. The problem does only occur occasionally. Where to start troubleshooting? I've looked for loose external pasts with nothing found.
Recently bought 2002 Camry 2.4 .... Engine has a cold start rattle in the top passenger side. The noise stops after the engine heats up in about 10 minutes. I've changed the intake manifold.... Did not work. Looking for the OCV VALVE FILTER but cannot find it ....
View 2 RepliesI have a klunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they replaced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there --
View 1 RepliesI have a klunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they repleced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there
View 1 RepliesI have a clunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they replaced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there --
View 1 RepliesI have a clunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they replaced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there --
View 3 RepliesThe 2002 Passat was making a rattle noise at startup and flashed an oil pressure light. The dealer says there is an issue with the chain tensioner and oil tube within the engine.
I received the latest VW bulletin for the 1.8l turbo regarding the oil sludge and coking deposits issues and pending class action suit. I have been religious about the oil changes and the dealer has done them for the 10 yrs.
The car runs great and has been super reliable until this issue. There is 110K on the clock and I'm wondering if this is a potential sludge issue.
I have not given the go ahead yet but wonder if this:
a) sounds reasonable cost wise
b)needs to be done right away
c)should I pursue this with VW NA
My 2002 Saturn SL1 seems to have a rattling noise when I first start it up. At first I thought it might be the air conditioner compressor, but it continued when I turned the air conditioner off. Now I am wondering if it might be related to my fan motor, for the heater AC. When I turn it off, the rattling noise seems to go away, but not always, especially when first starting the vehicle.
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