Camry :: 2002 Car Retains Pressure - Radiator Cap Produces Air Bubbles In Over Flow Tank
May 22, 2016
Have an 02 Camry 4 cylinder. The car retains pressure overnight in the radiator - the morning after driving the release of the radiator cap produces air bubbles in the over flow tank and a noticeable hiss of air from the filler neck. Car is not running hot and no CELs. Fluid is not being pulled into the radiator from reservoir after driving due to high pressure.
Here's what I have checked so far:
Exhaust - no white smoke
Oil - Looks fine no evidence of antifreeze
Replaced radiator cap
Hoses and clamps appear to be good
No fluid leaks found
Compression - all cylinders 145 psi +/- 1 psi
Exhaust gases in radiator - no evidence, fluid remained blue after test
Bleed air from system - was hearing the "waterfall" noise from within dashboard when accelerating. Put car on ramps, took rad cap off and ran for 45 minutes. Saw lots of big air bubbles at first then bubbles stopped. The overnight pressure retention stopped for about 2 weeks / 150 miles - but now has returned.
So it seems clear that air is being pulled into the radiator from somewhere. Beginning to think I have a small head gasket leak that is not showing any other signs. Any other potential source that could cause air to be pulled into the radiator?
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2007 Prius, my coolant is always overflowing to my reservoir. It doesn't have any overheating problem, if I will fill up the radiator I could see bubbles coming out, How can I resolve this problem?
View 8 Replies
Replaced pass side cyl head 7 years ago and now I've a misfire on cyl 1. Did wires and plugs as a matter of routine. Giveaway was rust deposit on rad cap. I always keep a strong coolant mixture and the rad is fairly new. Did a cyl pressure differential test and had bubbles coming out of rad. Funny thing is that had a rough few seconds on start, then smooth from then on. Getting my self fired up to tackle it. Have full gasket set and head bolts. Got a new head today. Am at 470k miles now.
View 6 Replies
My friend's 04 Sebring (6cyl) is overheating. After start up, almost immediately the water bubbles in the radiator and heat builds. He has replaced the radiator, thermostat, water pump, and even rebuilt the heads - still the overheating issue. What may be the problem and how to correct?
View 2 Replies
While I was looking at my coolant level in the overflow tank yesterday I noticed pinkish coolant residue on the overflow tank cap and then looked at the radiator cap and it was covered in the same pinkish coolant residue.
2006 Cam LE 4 Cylinder, 52,000. Already done 2 coolant drain and fills--the Head bolt issue scares me.....
View 6 Replies
I just got done replacing the passenger side half shaft axle on my 02' Elantra. I didn't have any fluid leak out when I removed the old axle(watched a few YouTube videos and everyone had fluid leak the minute the old one came out) but I think that may be because of the angle of my driveway and the car by jacked up pretty good.
Went I got done I checked all my fluids while I was at it. All of a sudden when I pulled the dipstick out for the transmission fluid, it was covered in air bubbles. I drove it around for 3 hours this morning delivering newspapers with no issues, checked the fluid again, there is still a few bubbles but not many.
Was just wondering if this would be a cause for concern? or is it probably just a bunch of air that got pushed in when I put the new axle in?
View 2 Replies
I got home tonight and smelled coolant. Looked under the car, coolant everywhere. I see the issue: a big hose (maybe 2" in diameter) has a tear in it and is spraying out coolant. I'm going to replace it, but once I do, how should I add coolant back into the radiator? Do I just pour it into the overflow?
2002 toyota camry 4 cylinder
View 8 Replies
I have a problem with the starting system on my 2002 Camry LE 4-cylinder. My problem started a few weeks ago. I drove it to the store, about five miles away, did my shopping, got back in the car, started it up and drove back toward home but stopped again to get gasoline. After filling the tank, the car wouldn't start. I turned the key but nothing happened. No noise, nothing. The starter motor wasn't turning over the engine. Thinking back, when I started my trip, the starting seemed a little weak but the car was sitting for a few days and it was cold out so I didn't make too much of that symptom.
So over the next half an hour, I tried starting it a few more times but got nothing but silence. So I called for a tow and $150 later I had my car back home. I put a load tester on the battery and it checked out fine. So I eliminated that part of the starting system being a problem. The next day, just out of curiosity, I tried starting it again and it fired up right away. The motor ran fine and I let it warm up for a while but I didn't go anywhere. I repeated this same procedure a few times over the past couple of weeks and each time the motor started up but again, I didn't chance going anywhere. However since I had some other maintenance projects I needed to get done on it and my wife has a 2014 Camry, having the 2002 out of service was inconvenient, but not an emergency.
So yesterday, with my maintenance projects done, I took the 2002 for a little test ride. Once again, it started up without a problem and I took my ride around the block. When I got home, I shut the motor off and went inside to grab a few tools. I came back outside, tried starting up the motor and got nothing. No start and no sound but the slight hum of the electric fuel pump. I tried a few more times with no success and then gave up for the evening. This morning, right before taking the other car to work, I tried starting it again just out of curiosity and once again, the motor fired right away. So this sequence of events tells me that something in the starting system is being impacted by heat when the motor is warm and when things cool down, they're fine.....at least for now.
I'm thinking the solenoid-starter may be going because I've had starters on other vehicles affected by heat before.
View 1 Replies
Background: My 02 camry (155k) ran great but I noticed grease/oil on the front of the engine so I had a local mechanic take a look. He replaced the front valve cover gasket, timing belt, and while he was in there, the water pump. He made me take it to the dealer to reset/recalibrate the stability control sensor because after disconnecting the battery to perform the work my "VSC", "trac off" and check engine lights were on. I got it back along with a list of work they thought I needed (replace the rear valve cover gasket, dog bone engine mount, and a bunch of bs I don't need).
Problem: Quickly my check engine light is back on. I fill up gas and I can't get it to turn over. The owner of the shop gets it to turn over by gassing it a bunch while turning the key. My mechanic later tells me the check engine light is due to a bum gas cap. He replaces that and the dog bone mount. Next day check engine is back on AND the next time I get gas the same thing happens - it won't turn over until I gas it, then it turns over and stalls a few times until I really gas it and it turns over and takes. Every other time I try to start the car it turns over first try. Both times I filled up I wasn't close to running out of gas or anything. I don't think the gas cap or the fuel injectors went bad coincidentally the same day the dude had his hands in the engine.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2002 Toyota Camry XLE 4 cylinder. I made a mess today, filled 13 galleons of Diesel in my gasoline Camry. It ran fine for 5 mins and then stopped.
I am planning to drain the fuel tank. I see one i hope fuel line in the hood which I plan to open using a wrench and drain the Fuel tank. Is that right?
Also do I need to do any other things immediately? I was thinking may be I will change fuel filter also.
View 14 Replies
Have a 2002 V6 in the family that's losing coolant at a rate of about an expansion tank every 3 -4 weeks.
I have searched all around with a flashlight, don't see any signs of coolant residue near the radiator, expansion tank or cap, water pump, or heater core connections. Heater core does not smell like coolant. Exhaust does not smell sweet or does not steam once the car is warmed up.
I pressure tested the cooling system on up to 18-20 PSI and still can't find any evidence of anything leaking out anywhere.
I'm going to change the upper and lower radiator hoses this weekend in the thought that maybe it's a pinhole leak once hot and under pressure (I pressure tested cold). Any common things I'm missing where it may leak?
View 7 Replies
I just got done putting the head back together after time sert repair on the 10 head bolts and after the initial start up and warm up I drove it outside and within 5 minutes the oil pressure light came on. I did something stupid afterwards but being that it's nighttime already I thought it would be fun to TURN ON THE ENGINE AND REMOVE THE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH TO ZZCHECK PRESSURE. Well it sprayed 2 feet in every direction until I managed to put it back. Cannot tell the psi but lots of pressure for idle. Oil is traveling places. I used compressed air on the switch put it back but still red light of death. The car drives fine no noise.
View 1 Replies
I am new to the ToyotaNation Forums. I got a 2002 Toyota Camry LE. Recently, I had an oil change done couple weeks ago and that same day I used the seafoam engine treatment. Now in the past couple days I had a low oil pressure warning light coming on. The car will not start unless I key into ignition and quickly rev the engine to like 2000 rpm+ and it goes. I read that the engine can seize. I checked the dipstick and the engine oil is clean and seems good. I went to (2) mechanics and they will not know unless the light comes back on. It has not come back on as of yet. Now I want to know what I can do to resolve this dilemma I got.
View 10 Replies
My stock OEM fuel tank has a crack in it. I've got to replace it. I was thinking of getting a TransferFlow replacement tank. It would nearly double my capacity. My wife wants me just to go stock to save the money, but I'm thinking the extra capacity would be nice. One thing that did concern me, however, is how much my fuel efficiency might diminish because of the extra weight of the tank (150 lbs) plus fuel. Since it is a gas truck, not many options.
View 8 Replies
I recently purchased a 2002 camry 2.4l 198k miles from a friend. His mechanic said engine was on it's way out so the next day after work the car didn't turn on so he thought his mechanic was right. So he told me about it and said it needed a new engine so me being a guy that likes to purchase broken down things I got it. I had it towed home and was going to mess with it on my free time.
So today I got under the hood and first thing I did was spray starting fluid in the intake. It turned on and was running good then shut off. First thing I'm thinking is fuel pump. When I disconnected the fuel line to the fuel rail and primed it it had fuel gushing out.
So now I want to check if the fuel pressure is right. I know the 5th generation camrys have a different fuel system that's kinda new to me. ( I know I'm out dated, I mess with diesels and older Hondas) so my question is what steps or processes of elimination steps should I take to keep this car running? How do I test the fuel pressure system on this car? Oh and before I purchased the car he said he "super filled up" the tank.
View 6 Replies
I have a 1999 suburban I got about 8 months ago when i got it it had a miss #6 plug porcelain was gone around electroid, mis fire returned to #6 agin about 2 months ago changed #6 it was gone this time porcelain was just cracked, now I just noticed oil in coolant I drained oil n didn't see any water in it.. Oil tank in radiator leaking? What else could cause this? By the way it hasnt over heated.. temp does fluctuate between 160-210 . What made me notice it was cap was leaking coolant changed cap gonna look at it tomorrow again.
View 10 Replies
My 1992 Nissan Primera 2.0 slx is overheating, probably on its last legs. First time this happened the radiator overflow tank seemed low so I topped it up with glycerol and added some leak plugger to the radiator for good measure. The car drove just fine for 20-30km then it happened again. At the same time, and I don't know if this is relevant, the windscreen defroster, which should bleed warm engine air, now only gives cold.
View 3 Replies
I just noticed this morning that the coolant tank (close to radiator) is empty. The other coolant tank level is normal. Big surprise! I thought they are connected, and coolant can flow between them.
View 5 Replies
1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse. 2.0L 5-speed. 195,000. When I complete my 33 mile trip home and shut off engine, I can hear air bubbling into the overflow tank from radiator. Temp gauge shows normal. Just had new water pump, thermostat, radiator flush and refill and new 16 lb radiator cap installed. Overflow tank fills up to near top (not running over) and when engine cools, the tank is back down to half way. I've checked water level in radiator when cool and it is full. Question: Is this normal? Don't think I've ever noticed or heard the bubbling sound before. The engine runs great and smoothly.
View 5 Replies
I've done some searching on this site and found some good information but I still have some questions about Fuel Pressure and fuel flow. A few months back when I had a bad injector and bubble tested to verify and it took around 15 seconds to fill the bowl(filter removed) from near empty is that normal or the sign of a healthy HFCM?
Tonight I was able to check the fuel pressure for the first time and when I turned the key on fuel pressure was slow to build for 2-3 seconds held at 20 psi then spiked up to 62psi and stayed at that psi during the starting cycle and held steady during idle. Is it acceptable to hesitate with a pressure build at the beginning of the cycle?
View 9 Replies
Last week during a hot/long day on the road, my engine temp gauge started fluctuating between 1/2 and almost 7/8 on the gauge. The weird thing was that it was fairly stable most of the time, but every 10 minutes or so, it would heat up, and spend bout 15 seconds at the high mark before dropping down again. It didn't seem to be related to rpm, A/C operation, or driving intensity. When I got home, and let it cool down, I checked the coolant level. I couldn't see any coolant in the radiator, but the expansion tank was nearly full. I guess the low coolant level can explain the symptoms above, but I can't figure out what is happening to the coolant.
I took the car to a mechanic and had a pressure test, which didn't show any leakage. I had a new thermostat and radiator cap installed. They flushed the system, and tested the hose between the expansion tank and radiator. After driving the car home, the coolant in the radiator had already dropped to the point where I couldn't see it, and the expansion tank was 3/4 full. Now, I am planning to keep track of the levels of both reservoirs (and refilling the radiator of course) to see if the fluid is leaking, or if it is just not returning from the expansion tank. Hopefully this bit of knowledge should locate the problem.
The successful pressure test leads me to believe that it isn't leaking externally. However, I'm wondering if there is a small enough leak that wouldn't be detected by the pressure test, but is significant enough that it would allow air in when the engine cools instead of pulling the fluid back from the expansion tank.
View 8 Replies
