Camry :: 2002 XLE V6 Rough Idle For A Second
May 17, 2016
So my 2002 Camry XLE V6 with ~132,000 miles has a little bit of a rough idle. It sounds like it's "breathing". It'll be rough for a second, smooth for a second, rough, smooth. It's not super rough where my steering wheel is really vibrating, but definitely noticeable. The RPM hovers around 500-600 and doesn't really fluctuate. On Sunday, the following was done with a friend:
- All 6 spark plugs with DENSO SK20R11
- OEM PCV valve, grommet, and hose
- OEM Air Filter
- OEM Cabin Filter
- OEM plenum gasket
We didn't do the head gasket and manifold gasket to save time and there was absolutely no oil on the coils or plugs. The car was very well maintained by the previous owner and by me since I got it at ~102,000 miles.
The car seems to surge sometimes. I'm not sure if that is the right word. Say if I turn left up a hill and hit the gas, the engine RPM will kind of surge up and then it'll shift. It's audibly noticeable. It's not smooth, but maybe it's just because it's a hill, I'm not sure
The idle seems about the same since before we did the plugs, which I thought doing the plugs would work. It almost seems like it might be worse and the MPG might be worse, but that may just be in my head.
Could it be the front motor mount? Maybe we should have cleaned the throttle body while we had it open.
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I changed all of the brakes on her car yesterday, test drove it, everything was great. Put close to 100 miles on it w/ no issues. Therefore, I don't think it's anything I did.on her way to work, the CEL came on. The car has a rough-ish idle, and jerks slightly in low RPM. I went to Pep Boys and got it read. it threw 8 codes:
P0171
P1130
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
P0442
From what i've read, the p0171 is the system is running too lean and p0442 is a leak somewhere. The 300s are cyl misfires.I don't want to go replacing every conceivable part. What these codes mean in conjunction?
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My wife has a 2002 Camry V6 SE with about 75k miles. Over the past 6 months the car has developed a problem. Every so often, say once every 2-3 weeks the car will start fine, but after driving for about 5-10 minutes, will start running rough and stall if I stop for a light. It will start again, (with a little effort) and will stall again at the next stop and so on. I can pull off the road, wait 10 minutes and the car will then run like a Swiss watch until the next episode.
I have taken the car to a respected mechanic and he sees nothing obvious wrong and there is no record in the car's computer of any problem. The last time this happened the car had been on the road for about 20 minutes before the stalling problem occurred. I kept the car going at idle by putting in neutral and increasing the throttle.
After we arrived home, the car cut out when we made it into the garage but a rotten egg-like smell was in the air in the garage. After about an hour, the car stated immediately and ran like a top. That was about a week ago and no problems since. I have read in the threads about EGRs Throttle bodies etc.
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This is my brother's 02 SE. 140k miles. 4cyl. He claims that the car is beginning to idle rough when he is stopped at a stop light and the AC is on. If i replace the spark plugs should that do it? I'm pretty sure it doesn't have spark plug wires cus that's what my dealer parts dept said. Motor mounts were replaced around 70k if that matters. The vibration is directly related to the AC being on.
I am also going to replace the serp. belt because there's a belt squeak when the motor is cold.
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I have a 2002 Camry SE (V6) with approx. 180K miles. The Engine mounts were shot so I decided to change them. I am a reasonably qualified mechanic (FAA Aircraft Mechanic) and perform most my work on my cars so didn't think this would be a big deal.
My procedure was to jack up front & put frame on jack stands then removed both wheels. Then with hydraulic jack and blocks under oil pan I started by removing all or the three lower engine mount hold down nuts (3 on bottom, 1 on top of each. NOTE: I changed the dogbone first which took 5 minutes.
I then jacked up engine about two inches or so and pulled out each old mount, then lowered engine back down making sure everything lined up as best I could. Then finished by tightening all of the nuts. Done. ....or so I thought.
When I went to start, the engine cranked but with a an unusual vibration and generally rough idle, more noisey than usual. When I drive it shift fine and everything works, just unusual vibration and noisey inside car.
I also used my BOSCH code checker and got ZERO CODES.
What is even more unusual is the engine when you are outside the car listening sounds fine. Just sitting inside do I sense the unusual vibration and noisy idle.
I checked for loose vacuum hoses, anything obviously pulled loose, etc and found nothing.
Again the car started and idled fine before the engine mount change now starts kind of rough and is noisy [inside car] but quiet outside.
nothing really changed except the moving of the engine block up and down to get the old mounts out.
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2002 Toyota Camry
2.4 V4
My car has developed a rough idle when stopped and when accelerating. When I got the CEL, I had the codes read at Advance Auto.
The codes are P0301, P0302, P0303, P1349.
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After a long trip from Houston to Dallas, my vehicle started to ride rough and eventually die on idle. It seems to idle fine, but then die after the first minute. I am getting code P306 and others all dealing with random misfires and misfires on ALL cylinders. The troubleshooting steps I have taken so far to no avail are:
(1) Replaced spark plugs with pre-gapped iridium
(2) Checked ignition coils
(2) Checked all vacuum hoses and air intake leaks
(3) Changed air filter(not a big deal)
(4) Removed and cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner thoroughly
(5) Checked the intake manifold for leaks and did not find any.
(6) Computer PCM checked for updates and issues at dealer
The dealer said it needed new fuel injectors, which seemed kind of fishy due to the following symptom:
The car runs GREAT at highway speeds, but it is unable to maintain an idle for an extended period of time and dies due to misfires. I hear a chugging in the engine sometimes.
Due to these symptoms, I self diagnosed this as a fuel regulator?
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2002 Prius that idles really rough for a min or two when first started. Recently got check engine codes 300, 301, 302, & 303 for misfires. Also have had the red triangle with a 3191 fail to start code. When I get the 3191 it will start after a couple attempts. Mileage has dropped to mid 30's. 227k miles & other than the idle problem the car runs well.
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I had a rough idle and now car wont start. 2002 elantra, 4 cylinder. replaced tps, replaced fuel filer, cleaned IAC. I can hear fuel pump car wont stay running...
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Just installed a new alternator today, and the motor (4 cyl.) idles rough when the AC is on. The battery was disconnected during the installation, but nothing else was touched. Is this caused by the new alternator itself, or because the battery was disconnected for a while? Should I set the idle speed a little higher or what?
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Title tells the story....also it seems that sometimes it does this when the brake pedal is depressed -- since it is a manual 5-speed, tho., often the brake pedal is not depressed at stoplights, etc. So, 2003, four-cyl., as I said, manual trans.
It's my husband's. He has been gone. I am driving the car for him while he is away. The car seems to have had this rough/low idle (according to the tach) with the A/C on for at least a couple of years. Idles O.K. if the A/C is not on.
He returns tonight. And, I have to pick him up at the Portland, Oregon Airport.
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Recently replaced spark plugs and wires on 02 SL1 with 209K miles. Was running rough, rough and high idle, almost died on me driving home one night. After replacing everything, car still wouldn't start. Spent some time on the forums and some suggested a leaking intake manifold gasket, so I changed that out as well as the coolant temperature sensor. Still it won't start. I am getting good spark at the plugs (coil arcs across the posts when plugs wires are off).
Really not sure where to go next with this. I can hear the fuel pump hum when I turn on the ignition, and I get a good spray at the fuel rail. Basically I turn the key and it cranks, sputters, and will almost catch, but then not. What next??
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02 Jetta GLS ... 1.8 Liter Turbo ... 5 speed manual
Threw a lot of codes I don't know the #s but I can get them tomorrow, but I know there was a throttle pedal sensor, cam sensor, MAF, turbo, and a computer one.
I've had the car 2 weeks and its driven fine every day until today I backed out of my drive way after doing some driving earlier in the day and popped it into first and she fell on her face, no power rpm's were near 300. shut it off start it back up idles a little rough and I have a traction control light CEL and EPC lights all on. when I first take off it chugs and is hard to even get going and then it takes miles to get up to speed. I can put the pedal to the metal and my rpms barely budge and the car ever so slowly gains speed, she eventually will top out around 70. but that's after quite a stretch.
This happened one other time and after a few minutes everything went back to normal for nearly a week , this time no such luck.
Possibilities to shoot down maybe?
-fuel filter/system
-Cat. converter
-MAF sensor
-Coil packs
-computer something??
-throttle body
-turbo
-electrical
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I just picked up an 02 Hyundai elantra manual trans that needed a transmission. ran fine before I replaced transmission but after putting it all back together the car now how has an erratic idle. it will rev from 2-4000 rpms. I tried spraying for vacuum leaks idle didn't pick up any higher. replaced tps and iac and didn't make a difference. the only thing that did make any difference is unplugging map sensor. dropped idle to about 1200 rpm but ran rough. could this affect the idle.
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Replaced Fuel Pressure Regulator but still notice smell of gas and sometimes at start up rough idle.
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When I start my S60, it runs extremely rough and will eventually stall. I do this over and over . . try and put it in gear and it will go a bit, run very rough, and will stall out. After a few minutes, something kicks in and it runs perfectly. If I don't try to drive, and sit with it idling, it runs very rough and I have a difficult time getting the rpms up. Then, the engine will suddenly race for a bit and everything is fine. It is very periodic in nature, doesn't matter if the engine is cold or not. It can sit over night and be fine, or do it, I can run around all day without problems and then suddenly it decides not to start up and run. The temperature outside doesn't seem to be a factor.
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I just recently purchased a used taurus and was experiencing rough idling and misfiring during operation. I replaced the EGR valve, the egr sensor, coil pack, spark plugs, iac valve, as well as check for vacuum leaks near all the hoses. I am a novice when it comes to this, but I was able to change those without issue. The misfiring was fixed during driving, but I still have rough idling. The needle seems to stay in check pretty well and the check engine light isn't on, but the car kinda hesitates and it causes the car to rock when idling. You can also feel the stuttering and rocking when cruising at very low speeds (5-15mph). I've already plugged in a decent amount of money into parts and am running out of patience when it comes to fixing what is a "potential" problem, and it winds up not fixing much.
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I recently picked up a 2wd 2002 F-150 with a 4.2l V6 that has just over 300k miles. The CEL is on and I'm getting P1131, P1151, P0316, P0305 and an occasional P0301. It has a very distinct misfire from around 1,000 rpm and smooths out between 1,500 & 2,000 rpm, the idle rpm occasionally bounces (sometimes enough to stall), and the idle is sometimes rough.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, fuelfilter, and replaced a leaking PCV hose. As I have changed things the symptoms have improved some but they are still there. While capturing some livedata it kept going out of CL and into OL Fault. When it would the idle quality was crap and the miss was much more significant. I would have to put it into D hold the brake and run the RPM's up to just over 1k to get it back into CL.
After I got done with the data stream at idle, I set the parking brake held the foot brake and put the truck in D then ran the rpm's up to around 1,200 & held it there. The truck stayed in CL but it would cycle between misfiring for 5 - 10 seconds then clear up and run smooth for 20 ' 30 seconds, every time it cycled there was an audible click that could be heard. Also, the AC was off the whole time.
Live DataStream @ Idle: CL
CalculatedLoad Value - 12.9- 14.1%
EngineCoolant Temp - 103degrees C
Short TermFuel Trim B1 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B1 - 0.0%
Short TermFuel Trim B2 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B2 - 0.0%
Engine RPM - 816 . 846
[Code] .....
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I get a really low idle, almost to the point of the car stalling, when the A/C is on. Usually it's only when I first start her up but sometimes I notice it at stop lights after driving for a while. The idle goes back to normal when I shut the A/C off every time.
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I recently bought a 2014 4-cylinder SE, sight unseen. I test drove another 4-cylinder SE that I recall idled smoothly before I bought mine - or at least I did not notice it, but this one was a trade from another lot and had all of the options that I wanted.
So - is it "normal" for the 4-cylinder Camrys to idle very rough with or without the A/C on, and in drive? I have tried a tank of 87, and a tank of 93 octane. Very small difference in smoothness on 93 octane, but I'd prefer not to have to run that. I owned a 4-cylinder 2008 Chevrolet Malibu before this car, and it idled much smoother than this Camry.
I also have a weird grind that sounds like the starter isn't disengaging when I start the car in the mornings. Push-button start on my car, so it isn't me turning the key too long or anything of that sort.
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I just bought a 2009 Camry LE (4 cylinder) about a week ago. It's only got 10K miles on it. Ever since I got the car, I've noticed a very slight vibration when stopped and in gear. It does this when the engine is cold and warm. It only does this when I am in gear with my foot on the brake and stopped. I still have warranty, should I bring it in to the dealer? Is there a simple fix for this? Or is this normal?
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