Camry :: 2002 XLE Not Cranking When Turn The Key
Apr 7, 2012
2002 Camry XLE. Turn the key and get a hiss, not cranking. All lights function properly. Battery is about 2 yrs old.
Here is a video. (turn up volume) [URL] .....
Apr 7, 2012
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Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Cranking But Will Not Turn On
My truck has been sitting for a couple of months while I work out an issue with the guy I bought it from. It worked perfectly fine but now it will crank but not turn over. Could it be that the key has deactivated? I looked under the #1 sparkplug cover and found it to be chewed up and the wire shield looks as if it has melted. I understand it could be other things like fuel filter, fuel pump but it acts as if possibly a filter clogged? I realize I am female but I would rather ask here than have a mechanic come out and tell me it's something that it is not. 2002 Explorer Sport ....
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Today i went to the store and my toyota camry 2002 with 4 cylinder turn on fine. i came back home and car also turned on. after 3 hours, i decided to take a short trip but this time the car was not turning on. there is no cracking, radio and headlight dont turn on. i thought it could be the battery, i used a multimeter and see that i get a 12.6 volt but still no headlight or radio.
The battery is 3 1/2 years old but the fact i get a 12.6 v make me believe is not the battery. I get a little bit of light in the dashboard and when i try to turn on the car it looks like the dashboard light get dim as well as the indicator in the dashboard such as battery indicator, abs, oil etc.
The starter was changed 2 years ago. The car turn on normally before, no sign of long cranking or anything like that. So I think it is not starter either but not sure. when the starter went bad 2 years ago, there was no cracking but the car made a click sound when try to crank. Now there is no click sound and this is why i think it is not the starter.
Camry :: 2002 With 4 Cylinder - Refusing To Start (Cranking)
Stuck at Starbucks at the moment waiting for my car to get towed. Thought I would post here to get some feedback.
I have a 2002 4 cylinder Camry that is refusing to start. The battery seems OK as all the lights are on. The car is not turning over either (cranking).
The car has had no issues (touch wood) since I got it at 50k miles. It is currently at 100k miles.
I believe the issue is with the starter. When I started the car earlier today, I noticed it started a little differently then before. It took a second or two longer to start.
Does the problem can be a starter? I am getting the car towed to my house in about an hour.
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I have 2002 camry V6, I did a battery replacement few months ago. It gave me hard time to start, cranking but will not ru,. I did clean the throttle body and was fine. I left the car for few days, came back will not start,you hear the starter but no cranking, a neighbor mechanic kept starting and did start. He said it needs tuning. The car has 104 k miles on it.
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Not sure why but randomly one time putting my car into reverse, both back up lights seemed to not turn on and I don't believe they are broken or blown.
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Last week, my 2002 V6 Camry decided it didn't want to start when the key was turned. That was with my wife driving. By the time I got out there, the car was running just fine. She said it didn't turn over, didn't click, nothing.
Today, it did it again, but it didn't have that magic reawakening like it had last week. I tried jumping it to see if it was the battery, but it did not change anything.
Here's what happens: Turn key to run position, and the dashboard lights up.
Turn key to start position, and there's silence. The clock on the dash turns off (as normal), but the only noise under the hood is the sound of the starter relay making a single click.
Does that mean the next place to look is the starter Solenoid? Can I jump the solenoid like on an old car to see if that starts her up?
Camry :: 2002 Wouldn't Turn Over At All - No Clicking Sound
I have a 2002 Camry that has been having a tough time starting in the mornings over the last couple weeks. Today I went to start the car and it wouldn't turn over at all. My battery is pretty old, so I just presumed this was the issue. I went and got a new battery and put it in, but still not starting. In fact, the car isn't even turning over at all (no clicking sound that I associate with lack of voltage from the battery). The car just makes a faint "whinning" noise.
All the electronics/lights in the car are working and when I turn the car on the check engine light, abs light, etc turn on. Doing a little searching online, I found that when I turn the ignition from "on" to "start" the headlights should dim and all of the interior lights (check engine, ABS, etc) should go off. They are not going off or dimming, but I'm not sure exactly what this is indicative of? Is this lack of headlight dimming/interior lights going off a tell-tale sign of something ("that is for sure the starter")?
Should I pull the starter and take it in to an Auto Zone type shop for testing, or is there something else I should be looking at first?
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My camry suddenly won't start. when i turn the key it makes this single click but won't start. Battery seems to be good. bad starter?
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I have a 2002 Camry with an A/C problem. When I turn on the A/C, the A/C light flashes and the compressor does not spin. I have check the following:
1. The compressor is fully functional when I feed power to it.
2. The A/C fuse, 10A, is functional.
3. The Mag CLT relay is functional.
4. The cabin filter is new.
5. There is enough refrigerant.
Camry :: 2002 Rear Turn Signal Stopped Working / Flashes Twice
I now have a 2002 Camry and the left rear turn signal has stopped working. When I put the signal on, it flashes about twice as fast inside and in the front, but nothing in the back. I replaced the bulb but it still didn't work. I'm going to switch the bulb here with the right one and see if it's still good just to be sure. Anyway, the rear left flasher doesn't work either. I've had turn signals be fuse related before but not when it's just one signal that's not working. Live in the city and driving without it is no good.
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I bought a used 2002 Camry (at a discounted price because of a few dings and dents) and the headlights are not working. The high beams and turn signals work but not the headlights. I changed the bulbs, checked all the fuses and got a new relay but still nothing. I brought it to an electro-mechanic and he told me the ECM was busted and that he could maybe grind it down. This seemed odd to me so I called my old mechanic in the states who said he has never heard of an ECM causing headlights not to work and suggested I install a toggle switch. Does this sound like it could work? Could I do this on my own? I'm pretty handy but am a little hesitant to try any electrical work on my car as I have no experience with electrical work.
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2005 Accent has been essentially bug free until now.
Drove 3 hours, parked for 4 hours, then when to turn it on... cranked, no turn over. Tried again and the crank died. I figured, ok, no problem, battery getting long in the tooth, time for a new one.
A friend and I were able to push start it (5 speed manual), and yesterday I bought a new battery for it. No worries right?
Wrong. Same thing now. Cranking but no gas/spark/turn over. No check engine light or codes.
My next place I'm guessing I need to check is the fuel pump relay? Should I hear a click a few seconds after I turn the key to on? I believe I should, not sure if my memory is playing tricks on me, but right now there is none.
Relay in the fuse box? Do I need to check anything else first? Have multimeter.
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What a strange problem. EVERY EVERY morning the car starts perfect. Once it is warm some of the time (half) it will give a long crank approx 2.5 seconds before it will start. What a stupid problem! I have replaced:
Spark Plugs (NGK G-power) cheaper than stock, supposed to be better.
timing belt, water pump, idler-just matenence
Cam sensors
crank sensor (on tranny)
I checked the wires and coil by hosing them down while running. Vag-com says the temperature sensor is correct. No trouble codes except Secondary Air... What to do
Accent LC (2000-05) :: Cranking When Turn The Key / Hesitates To Start
I go out to start the car, it cranks and cranks and cranks. I stop turning the key. I then try again and it hesitates to starts. I give it a little gas and it starts. When it does this, the car begins running very rough and idling rough. When I give it a little gas while it's parked, the check engine light begins flashing at me.
I turned the car off and came back to it the next morning (maybe 10 hours apart). It started right up no problem, no CEL either.
Plugs/Wires were done a few months back.
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This past winter I started having trouble with my '06 Santa Fe where I would turn the key to start my car and nothing would happen. No cranking, no clicking, no sound. My lights turn on fine, radio, everything else works just fine. Sometimes it won't start for 30+ minutes, and sometimes I'll just try a second time and it'll start up right away.
Last winter when this happened my check engine light came on and so I took it to the dealership and they said it was the crank position sensor that needed replaced. For whatever reason I didn't get it fixed and have been driving my car with no problems whatsoever for 10 months or so, until this weekend when my no start issues started again. The check engine light is on again and it's the same code for the crank position sensor.
I believe I will definitely get the crank sensor fixed this time, but could the issue possibly be anything else? Bad starter? Ignition switch? My mechanic can't give me a definite answer because every time I take it to the shop it starts up just fine for him.
Ford :: Engine Doesn't Turn Over Or (Despite Cranking Fine) Won't Start
RE: FORD PROBE GL (non-turbo). Last week suddenly car wouldn't start Thurs. night. Cranked but would not turn over. Heard click at ignition switch area when key turned to start position. (Although I could only hear one click from inside the vehicle with windows shut, I was told that clicks audible under the hood from standing outside.) Tried jump starting (from a good battery using proper connections) unsuccessfully, repeated tries several minutes apart, allowing longer and longer time to charge. About every third attempt, instead of cranking sounds, I would get silence, with only the click audible.
Temperatures decreased from approximately 50s to 20s when symptoms began.Battery is old but tests good/replace soon: 330+ CCA at 43 degrees, original rating CCA 530 (silver battery now at 7 years. Will replace, but garage did not have required size 56). At that point, the amps gauge read at the low end of the normal range (and today it read mid-way in the normal range).Had car towed to garage on Friday. Mechanic looked at on Saturday and decided it was the inertia switch, which he said had "tripped".I watched video for technicians on inertia switch but it shows on newer Fords. Mine is not located at the kick panel and does not have a red button on top. I am not certain from my experience whether the reset button would actually be in a different position when tripped or he merely surmised that is what had happened, despite my telling the shop manager that I had not so much as bumped a curb. Also, the trunk was not slammed or even opened prior to the car not starting.
Car presumably started fine at mechanic when they pulled it into the garage to put air in tires and back out to the lot, as well as when I started it to drive home on Sunday. However, on Tuesday it would not start. Just in case, I depressed inertia switch reset and tried cranking again several times, giving it some gas, until I was actually pumping it vigorously in desperation as a last resort (several seconds turning key each time), and on about the 5th try, the engine began to catch just as I was releasing the key. Reset the inertia switch one more time (just in case), and after a couple more attempts, it finally started, but when I was going in reverse to back out and then putting in gear to start out in first gear, for about 15 seconds total, I heard a bizarre loud, fairly high-pitched whistle/whine type of sound that seemed to come from under the hood coming through the central area of the dash where the radio is located.
Drove about 5 miles to my job, and about 2 hours later was able to start the car on the first try. Lately usually driven relatively short distances of 2-4 miles, with a longer drive of 11 miles broken up into 6 miles + 5 miles on the return trip the night before this started happening.
Chrysler - Concorde :: 1998 LXI Won't Turn On / Oil Leak Sign And No Cranking
My Concorde LXI 1998 been having this problem lately for couple of times a week. It sometimes dies in the middle of the road and I have to turn it on by pressing on the gas continuously. So, it shows the oil leak sign and it doesn't crank up. I crank my car by just pressing on the gas few times. I have attached the link of the video in here : [URL] ....
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I drive an Infiniti i30. When I bought it, the guy who sold it to me told me that the car runs great but that I would have to turn the key kind of hard to get the car started. Over time, this problem has progressively gotten worse. There have been times where I'd be stuck in a parking lot for over an hour trying to get the car to start. When I turn the key, I can hear the starter clicking, and all of the dash lots and radio will come on but the car doesn't sound like its cranking or even trying to start. The weirdest thing is that the first time I drive my car in the morning it starts up just fine. It's once I turn the car off after driving somewhere and try to start it again that I have problems. I'll have to turn the key 100 times or more sometimes to get it to start if its not the first time of the day. What this could be?
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