Recently, my I4 XLE camry with abs came up with a cel P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor A Malfunction. Where the vehicle speed sensor is located? i doubt this thing's hard to service, but so far i have no luck finding it.
View 13 RepliesMy car is now 24/7 with this error which is Vehicle Speed Sensor malfunction an there seems to be no way of solving it, symptoms are:
*Speedometer not working, needle always in 0
*Power steering not working
*Car wont past 3rd gear
*Check engine light and power steering light on
I checked all 4 speed sensors and the wiring looks good and they look good. Also if i hit a bump, issue goes away for a couple of minutes, until i hit another, etc, so looks like a wire or short circuit, cant tell. Is there a speed sensor on the transmission as well? where is located?
Where the vehicle speed sensor is located on the 2007 es350. Reomoved battery and air filter box but just can't find it.
View 1 RepliesVehicle is a 1996 Aero* XLT, 4.0 engine with 155000+ miles. I'm getting the P0500 code with the OD light blinking. Tranny is not shifting properly. Did not look at the speedo or check the cruise due to worry about making it to my driveway. I have had ocasion to set the cruise to 45MPH and at times it will drop out. I don't know the lower limit on the cruise. Is this speed sensor the same as the VSS...
View 9 Replies2010 RX350 check engine light is on code P0500 came up it said speed sensor A...
View 1 RepliesI purchased this car used last year. It is a 2002 Camry with a 4cyl 2.4L and an automatic transmission, with 75,000 miles on it. The car was driven about 7 months and a little over 2000 mile before the problem started.
I had a P0500 code read by dealer after check engine light came on. The vehicle kind of surged and the motor rpm increased and I seem to loose power. I also told them the tach and speedometer started jumping around. This only last a minute or so and then runs normal. They tested the vehicle speed sensor and said it was working fine and reset the light. After driving it a couple hundred miles the light came on again and they did the same thing. The next time it came on they decided the signal from the sensor going through the cluster (speedometer and tach) might be where the problem lies, since the signal went through there before going to the ecm.
They could not guarantee this was the source, but it was their best diagnosis since the car would not repeat the fluctuating power problem. I went ahead and replaced the cluster and drove it about 1 month and 250 miles before the light came on again. It is the same code P0500. I forgot to mention that the 3rd time the check engine light came on they said they also pulled a P1730 code. The car runs fine after the initial check engine light comes on.
I have a 2001 Toyota Celica GT, automatic with 177,000 miles, it has been very well maintained. I started having a problem usually just after starting when it is still not completely warmed up. I try and shift it into reverse or drive, and the shifter says it is in those gears, but the car acts like it is in neutral. Once it gets a little warmer I can try it again and it will slowly shift into reverse or drive, usually though the rpm's seem to go a little higher than normal while it shifts. It seems to drive pretty well after this, shifting-wise, but not exactly perfect.
When it is completely warm though it usually drives really well - mostly I do a lot of highway driving. The transmission fluid is full, and looks perfect, nothing in it, not burnt. Previous owner had it changed a few years ago I believe. The check engine light is on and the codes are Speed Sensor A P0500, P0770 Shift solenoid E. My speedometer also works perfectly by the way. I don't have a lot of good shops around and I feel like the ones that are closest to me will see dollar signs in their eyes when they see that transmission code and will just try and replace the whole transmission right off the bat.
I have an 08 avalon w/ 281k miles. NEED to replace the transmission speed sensor (P0500 code thrown). Where is it located on the trans and what is the part #? I'm thinking about servicing the trans while I'm there but looks like a lot of "comments" regarding this transmission and the problems with servicing it!?
View 9 RepliesSo I'm getting code p0500 the question I have is will the speed sensor on the tail on my transmission cause this code on my 99 f150 4x4 . the reason I ask is because this sensor has been broken off . I'm hopeful it only control's my speedometer and is not related to the code . I've tried to remove what is left however in fear if I get it loose it may fall into the transmission. I will be replacing the speed sensor on the pumpkin this weekend . but the transmission it's the upper one is broke off below the surface of the transmission this is a manual transmission....
View 2 RepliesJust got a P1135 Code on the 1MZ-FE 2002 Camry.
My code reader pulls it up as (no typo below) : AirCFuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction.
So I know it's a bad Air/Fuel sensor. Which one though? I replaced the rear sensor by the firewall about 6 months ago which fixed the check engine code (I don't remember the code). Would it make sense that the front one failed now or the back one failed again? Most of my research points me to a bad rear sensor however a lot of people also report that a code reader would report the sensor as "Bank 1 Sensor 1".
The rear sensor was replaced with a Denso 234-9042 Sensor.
I would play the replace and test game... however inspection is due within the month and after resetting the code, it usually takes about 50 miles to return. Being in college, 50 miles takes about 2 weeks.
I'm getting a tire sensor malfunction on my vehicle status. Is it something I should worry about?
View 6 Replies2002 Jetta 2.0L...
The Haynes Manual tells you to lift the car up and un-mount the engine mount on the drivers side of the transaxil to get access to the VSS underneath the vehicle, but you can do it from the top of the engine!
1. Take out your Air filter box for easier access
2. My VSS was covered by a metallic heat pouch with snaps. (not mentioned in Haynes Manual)
3. I got Needle nose pliers to wedge in the small area to unscrew the bottom half of the VSS. It is a small area to get your hand in, but with the needle pliers was actually pretty easy.
4. Then get something small enough to release the clip for the top plug. I used my screwdriver.
5. Screw in your new VSS and plug the top cable back, then put your air filter back in place.
If you look at the pictures I took, you can see the VSS and the silver pouch I mentioned. I had a lot of trouble finding the location of the VSS with no real good pictures or explanations online. Note these pictures were taken from the drivers side, which the empty space is where the air filter was and on the right you can see the battery.
So I am getting a CEL and p0501 (Vehicle Speed Sensor) code and don't quite know how to approach it.
Other forums/posts suggest that I check or replace the input and ouput sensors on the transmission, but from what I understand those are each a unique code, and the p0501 is for a sensor located on the transaxle. Is this the case?
I was under the impression that because my car did not have ABS that I did not have the latter sensor on the transaxle, only the input/output on the transmission. If that is the case, will replacing both eliminate the CEL/p0501?
I noticed my 2005 GX470 started to "bottom out" when going over speed bumps or potholes. The air suspension seems to work fine raising and lowering ok and the general ride is still quite smooth. From some simple searches on the board it would seem that leaking of the air suspension could be the problem?
I did a code read and got the following error codes none of which sem related to the problem.
Code
CO200 Right front speed sensor malfunction
C1223 Malfunction in ABS control system
C1340 Open circuit in central differential lock signal
C2172 tire pressure, transmitter identification number not registered
I have an ABS light on. I have crawled under the truck I don't know how many times everything is connected just as it should be. The wires did have to taped up because they burnt into after getting against the exhaust at some point, but I had fixed that awhile ago, I've even tore back into the tape and re-did everything again, nothing gets rid of the ABS light. When this first happened it would go away after I turned the truck off, but would come back after using the brakes a few times, especially harder stops. Then it got to where it just came on and stayed on, and didn't go out no matter what. Thinking my ABS speed sensor went, I bought a brand new motorcraft one from rock auto it fits perfectly in the rear, plug looks good. I can't find NOTHING that would keep this light on. The code is always the same "Rear ABS Center Speed Sensor Input Malfunction", how to get rid of this?
View 1 RepliesI have read several of the post on here about speedo's acting up, but I'm not finding anything that pertains to my specific problem. A few months ago I bought a 2000 Excursion, it currently has around 179,000 miles on it. When I got it the ABS light was on and this site is actually where I found out to replace the sensor on the rear end to fix that. My problem is that until a few weeks ago even with the ABS light on my speedo worked just fine and then it started acting up every time I hit the brake pedal and then eventually quit working all together and my cruise control light would flash as well as the OD light.
I replaced the sensor in the rear end and also found out about a recall for the cruise control and had that repaired as well. Now the ABS light is no longer on and the cruise light is not flashing, however the OD light still flashes and 95% of the time my speedo does not work at all. On Monday while heading to town it started working, hit the brakes and all was good, set the cruise control and used it all the way to town, but as soon as I hit the brakes the needle started jumping around and went back to zero and stayed there. I have ohmed the sensors and wires from sensors to harness under the hood and all seems good. The only code I can pull with my meter is P0500 which is just a generic code.
I've got a 99 F-250 6.8L V10 manual 4WD with no speedometer or odometer. The ABS and MIL lights are on. Code is P0500 - VSS malfunction.
This started when the previous owner hooked up some large LED backup lights to the factory wiring. Something smoked under the dash. He then moved them to a relay-switched +12V feed. He reported that the backup light fuse did not blow.
Ive tested the backup light fuse and the recently replaced VSS. Fuse is good and the VSS tests ok for Ohms and gives AC voltage when the tone ring turns. I pulled the fuse panel, GEM, and PCM. There's no visible damage anywhere there. I'm stumped. Tomorrow, I'll dig for any melted wiring under the dash....
2001 F250. I have had issues on other trucks where you get a funny-acting speedometer with a code that comes up as VSS (sensor on top of the rear differential)....And it shifted exact same way.
My new truck speedometer is totally fine and the ABS is on with codes:
C1158 Left front speed sensor coherency malfunction
C1155 Left front speed sensor input circuit malfunction
Shifts about the same way on the trucks with bad VSS.
Question is will a bad front speed sensor affect the way the trans shifts? Doesn't happen all the time. If you go slow it shifts smooth. If you pull off fast a barely noticeable jerk from 1-2 and 2-3....
2007 Camry LE 2.4
I just replaced the rear pads and rotors with no issues other than having to bang the cr@p out of the left rotor with a hammer to get it to come off. Now at pretty much all speeds I am hearing a rythmic humming-type sound that increases and decreases with vehicle speed. It's not a constant hum but more like one-hum-per-tire-revolution type of sound. It is coming from the left side as far as I can tell.
Thinking I had damaged the wheel bearing (and after searching the forums extensively) I replaced it with a brand new bearing from Advance Auto Parts. I re-checked the pads, rotors, all bolts, everything is lubricated properly, etc. Just took it out for a test drive and the noise is still there. Sometimes it gets louder when breaking but not always. I rotated tires and the sound did not follow the tire. The pads aren't stuck or rubbing excessively as far as I can tell.
This sort of thing has happened in the past on the left rear. It would sometimes happen when I swapped the summer tires for my winter tires on steelies, the left rear would make the humming sound, I'd take the wheel off and put it back on 180 degrees rotated and the sound would go away. I've done that a few times too and it has not worked.
97 ranger 2.3l 5spd ... I keep getting p0500 code. the speedometer and odometer work fine. I understand they get they're reading from the OSS on the transmission. Now I also have the vss in the axle housing which I believe is what gives the ultimate speed reading to the pcm that way there is no need to ever adjust for axle ratio.
When using the torque app with my obd reader my OBD MPH guage does nothing until I get to about 55 then it bounces around randomly between 20 and 55 and once I hit 60 mph it reads correctly. I have tried 3 different vss sensors checked wire continuity from sensor to firewall examined the teeth/sprocket that gives the vss it's reading and it all checks out...
My questions are:
- What volts or ohms are supposed to come out of the plug end so I can test if the signal to the sensor is working
- Looking for wiring schematics for this sensor to pcm...my schematic only has the oss.
2002 Camry 4 cly was running great. All the sudden looses power, stalls (won't idle), engine light came on, when I held gas pedal at 1000 rpm engine rev's 1000 - 1400 rpm. Autozone trouble codes P0300, P0301, P0302, P0171, P0420. Car barely runs, getting worse quickly. I also smelled hot metal when I pulled into driveway, exhaust tail pipe was superhot.
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