I have a 2002 camry xle 115 k miles, lately I started to feel the abs engaging at low speeds dry street, tires are good and new front rotors and pads, no dash warning lights. I looked at the front speed sensors and cleaned it still doing that...
View 1 RepliesI purchased a used 2002 Camry [above model] with 99K miles on it in March, 2009. This is my 3rd Camry as the first, 1986 had 256K and the 1997 had 252K. I was very pleased with the 86 & 97 and very displeased with this new one!
I have problems with the engaging stalling, surging at stop signs as well as problems at about 40 mph.
I have 144,000 miles on my V6. Just started to notice that the car is surging/hesitating at just about all speeds. It appears to idle fine and if you raise the RPM in neutral I can't detect a problem. If you place the trans in drive, apply the brake and raise the RPM to 1000 to 1500 the engine's RPM varies slightly and regularly, it not steady like all of my other cars. When you are at highway speeds you can feel the car slightly buck, if you take it out of overdrive it is more detectable due to higher RPM. I do not notice the problem when the engine is cold.
I have a hand-held scanner and I see no codes and there is no CEL illuminated. I changed the plugs with OEM plugs at 90,000 miles when I changed the timing belt. Changed the air filter probably 10,000 miles ago. Just cleaned the MAF sensor (after the problem started), no change. Took it to the dealer. They discovered broken motor mounts which I kind of suspected I had, but I didn't feel the symptom were mount related. They said that I was feeling torque converter lock-up. I told them that the range of speeds and gears that the problem presented itself that it was unlikely lock-up.
Alldata suggests that it is a fuel problem and Toyota has some TSB's for drivability. I'm discounting the TSB's because this just started recently. Any hints as to where to try first? EGR, fuel regulator, fuel pulsation damper, injectors, spark plug coil packs, ..... It gets too expensive to just remove and replace the sensors that deal with the fuels system. I have plenty of tools plus a volt-ohm meter and a fuel pressure gauge.
07/21/2009 : While I was at work I added Seafoam to the gas, tank was half full.
On my way home from work I disconnected the EGR Position Sensor connector and the symptoms disappeared and the expected CEL illuminated. When I arrived home I went on Alldata and looked for an EGR system test. I found two, one for the position sensor and one for the EGR temperature sensor.
I had to run out to Sears to pickup a vacuum pump. I performed the tests below up to the point that I needed the pump. I also removed, inspected and reinstalled the EGR Position Sensor before I left for Sears. I did not notice the symptoms on the trip about 14 miles round trip. I'll see if I still have the problem on my way to work tomorrow.
Performed the on-vehicle inspection as listed on Alldata
EGR Position Sensor resistance: 2.6 ohms, in spec
EGR Position Sensor power: 5.0v, in spec
EGR Position Sensor output with no vacuum applied: 1.0v, in spec
EGR Position Sensor output with 5.1 in Hg vacuum applied: 4.0v, in spec
07/22/2009 : Problem seems to have gone away, no bucking or hesitation. Maybe the connector contacts were dirty on the position sensor. Will update if the symptoms return.
09/07/2009 : Noticed that I am getting 2 miles per gallon more than before I found the problem.
Intermittent problem, noticed mostly at low speeds, where car will buck or lurch forward. Most noticeable when accelerating after a slowdown, i.e. applying gas after coasting. No check engine lights, oil & transmission fluid is full. Car has 105K miles, tranny & coolant flushed every 30K, oil changed every 3K, tuneup w/plugs& wires @ approx. 93K, timing belt @ 70k. This car is a gem, mostly driven on the highway that has been perfect until now. Things I've considered doing: replacing timing belt, transmission solenoid, computer sensor that controls tranny. My suspicion is its tranny related but maybe not. Is there a way to check/set the timing on this car? I remember years ago using a timing light on my chevy. This is weird, it will run perfect smooth in the morning and rough with lurching in the afternoon. Could be a total coincidence but it seems to run ok when its cool and not so when it is hotter.
View 8 Replies2002 Camry is jerking and bucking at high speeds then stalls after coming to a stop. Will restart immediately if you give it gas. Then I must keep pressure on accelerator at all times even while stopped or car stalls. Shut car off and let sit for 20 to 30 minutes. Once restarting must give it gas, but then car runs without stalling. However has no trouble on cold start.
View 6 RepliesI have aproblem with my 2007 Camry 2.4 SE automatic tranny at 88000 miles. I parked my car as usual,got back after 2 hours started the car normally pressed the brake pedal to engage D and....nothing happens. The lever moves freely from R to L but the light on the instrument cluster stays at P and the car won't budge!!!!! What could be the cause.
The tranny showed no signs of failure before,excpt a slight vibration while in Drive. What I should go checking before towing the car to dealer.Any fuses relays etc.?I mounted a back up camera lately and had to slice back-up wires in the trunk to do that ,could this be related?
My AC pulleys bearing froze up and broke the belt. I replaced the pulley and clutch, checked fuses and relays, all good. The clutch still wouldn't engage.I bought some AC 134A and put half a can and its still not engaging. How do I get that clutch to engage?
2002 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Ecotec engine
My parent's bought a 2002 Explorer 4.0 V6 very early, either late '01 or early '02 when it first came out. Besides the dash blackout (which I found a fix for, need to do) it's been plauged latley (since Nov/Dec 2010) with the intermittent issue of when... You turn the key on to start, you dont hear the fuel pump enguage, thus no start. Get towed, it works like a champ.
It's blown a fuse 1 or 2 times cause of this, had the fuel pump recently replaced (dec/jan this year) and just did it again. Our local Ford dealership figured the fuel pump went bad from sitting, the vehicle only has about 33k miles on it (dad dont drive much). What appears to be a bad fuel pump, only to have it get towed, or sit overnight and start like nothing ever happened?
Dad's ranting about not trusting the vehicle anymore, he's 80yrs old so I can't blame him for wanting to feel comfortable with knowing his vehicle should start, but it is a machine, they do break but we cant seem to get this fixed.
2009 Camry SE 2.4L. I have been noting an unfamiliar vibration of sorts in my gas pedal for some time, but did not notice smells, overheats, noises, fluid loss, DTCs or anything. Today on my way to work I started to notice hard shifting. The RPMs would rev up, fall down and shift hard. At time the RPMs would climb to 5k before dropping back down then shifting. Got worse, then finally when I was trying to U turn across the road (was stopped in gear) I lost all gears. I could shift to any gear, engine RPMS would remain stable, but no movement. Pressing on the gas just hiked the revs.
I pushed it off the road, and killed the engine and could get it to engage for short periods then no gears again. Seems like if I let it sit for a bit it will work for a short while, then no gears again. Had it towed home. Trans fluid indicates full, no burnt coloring or smell to it. No indications of leaks. After the tow I was able to drive it up into my driveway.
For clarity, I can move the selector to any gear and that feels normal. The engine does not bog down. I simply am not engaging any gear. Thinking sensor? Maybe heat related?
I have a 2002 Ford Superduty. I recently had installed a BDS 8 inch suspension lift. I also had the upper and lower ball joints replaced. All this work was done by a certified garage. Today i went to pull out my boat from the ramp, turn the switch inside the cab to 4x4 high. The light came on but 4x4 did not engage. As i pulled the boat out of the water the rear tire spun in the sand but the front did not. As i cleared the ramp and on level ground i turn the switch off and back on i heard not but the light can on. With the 4x4 light on i turn the wheel and pulled forward i noticed no hopping as when a truck is in 4x4. Initially when i turn the 4x4 switch on i hear a clunk up front but not after. Drove home drive train appeared fine no noise.
View 3 RepliesZERO problems except that car consumes oil.
I drove around a corner and hit a minor pothole.
Engine rpms went to zero. I pulled over and car would not start. Starter is so quiet I thought it was not engaging.
I put a chalk mark on serpentine belt and it is turning but the engine shows no sign of wanting to start...no spark I suspect.
I see no blown fuses.
The car has been well maintained and has 250k miles mostly highway. 2.4l LE...
When I reverse (and wait 3 seconds just to ensure the gears are engaged), on occasion I feel a stutter/kick.
To offset it, I will tap the pedal when reversing so its not continuous. What this could be?
I have 2002 3.1 that has started surging at all speeds not all the time but a lot. It has no codes set. 15500 miles.
View 1 RepliesI've been having this problem for a few weeks now and its getting real bad. When I'm driving along at normal speeds my car will cut off on its own. Also when I'm slowing down the car will jump up 5-600 rpms and at utter and shake a lot and every other time it'll cut off. I've replaced the maf and nothings changed. I'm really hoping it doesn't have to do with the transmission. The car has 241k on it .
View 3 RepliesHave a 2002 Yukon 5.3 ltr engine (155K miles) that likes to cut off at highway speeds. Usually happens after 4 or 5 hours of running at 70 to 80 mph. Strangely if I set the cruise control and do the same speeds, nothing... When it happens I end up coasting to the side at the roadway and sitting there for 15 or 20 minutes and it'll start right up and usually go the rest of the way. I've talked to a couple repair shops and they have checked service bulletins and have never been able to find anything. Will be driving to Connecticut for the 4th and not looking forward to being on 95 with the possibility of this happening again.
View 2 RepliesMy wife's 02 mountaineer AWD 4.0 v6 non-flex fuel has app. 152k on it. And it's really in decent shape. But over the last month a vibration at all speeds over 5mph has started to develop. It doesn't change with cornering it's constant until you stop. I suspect a passenger side wheel bearing. But when you lift that tire off the ground it has no play in it. But when you lift the entire rear end and spin the tires there's a distinct rumble you can hear. BTW this is a non-LSD from what I gather. Wheels spin in opposite directions when lift up.
Looking at the half shafts there's some ability to twist them. I haven't tried to see if there's any play in them, ie in and out movement. I am considering replacing both wheel bearings and half shafts. My wife likes the car and it's been fairly low maintenance. I've been looking for any info online about replacing the half shafts and haven't found much. I have seen some comments that they rarely go out. How can I determine if it is the half shaft? Is there a retainer clip or special tool needed to pull them from the pumpkin? Or do they slide off? Is there any seals that should be replaced while I am digging into this project?
My SC430 '02 has developed a problem with the VSC. Unfortunately it s not the light but the VSC engages at slow speeds. If I accelerate from low speeds, engine does not rev up and the VSC lights comes on. It works as if I was skidding and tries to correct the direction of the car. Just as it should if I was on ice or experienced aquaplaning, but I am on a dry road. I did a reset of the ECU, had the car at Lexus (they were able to duplicate my issue) for a zero-calibration. They found no problem with the sensors. All did not work. Presently I drive with the VSC disengaged. I do suspect the speed sensors to act up as I had Tein-Coilovers installed, but how can I get to the source of the problem?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2002 Toyota Highlander that sort of chokes. At random times while driving, the car hesitates on acceleration, chokes a little, and then continues to accelerate. It is an automatic transmission but it feels like I can feel the shift in gears. usually happens at low speeds (20 mph). no matter time of day or warm up period. I have been having regular maintenance at dealer. there was a caution note that I would need spark plugs replaced... is this it? a result o f needing new spark plugs? or something else?
View 6 RepliesI have an 02 Jetta 1.8t automatic with about 140k miles. It has always been a great car. Last week, I was taking off from being stopped at a light and I heard a loud beep and saw that my oil pressure warning light was blinking! It blinked 3 times and then was gone, now last week temperatures were very low for my area. Today was actually pretty warm and sunny. I was stuck in gridlock traffic, it took me 25 minutes to go 1/4 mile. Idle, Idle, creep forward... Idle, Idle, creep forward...etc.
I noticed that the temp gauge read over 200, not in the red, but too close for my liking. Then a moment later when it was time for me to move up a bit, there was a beep and then that low oil pressure light again, 3 blinks and gone. I was panicked. I shut my engine off while I waited for traffic to move and when I would move forward it was the same thing. I finally pulled over, as I was stuck in traffic about 1000 feet from a friends house. I stayed there for 4 hours and then decided to fire her up again. Totally normal.
40 Minutes later as I rolled into my driveway, boom there was that light blink again... I am really concerned but confused by the light not staying on continuously and not having the check engine or any other warning light ever come on. It's weird to me that when this happens I am either taking off or coming to a stop, never going more than 5mph.
I'm driving my wife's 2002 VW Golf on the highway to build miles (it's at 84k). It's a manual with gearing that's at 3500 rpm at 70 mph in 5th gear, which seems pretty high. It had been doing fine on the highway, even though the RPM seems a bit high due to gearing, but it keeps me under 80 mph (highway is largely 70 mph). It burns oil, but not too bad, like a quart every 500 miles or so.
Recently, when driving at "high" speed (slightly over or near 70 mph), I get a plume of intense white smoke. After slowing down, the plume goes away, and I can continue near 65 mph.
After this happened today, I put on a code reader, and saw of P0159, air fuel ratio oxygen sensor issue. What causes the white plume of smoke, and what to do about it? Seems like the car should have more miles on it.
I have 124,000 miles on my 2002 subaru impreza outback sport and this car runs very well and has been maintained well however the last couple weeks I have noticed a slight rattling sound toward the right front side of the car almost as if there were pebbles inside the wheel covers when the car is driven at low speed and I begin to accelerate. It also sounds as if the rattling could also be coming from the exhaust also as if it were loose fitting but the tailpipe is on the left looking from the rear of the car. Another possibility I thought of was the fender was loose or the tire was rubbing against the wheel well or something. It is one of those small annoying sounds that does not seem to warrant bringing in to a mechanic yet but I am curious about what that is.
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