Camry :: 2002 V6 - RPM Specific Vibration / Shudder On Acceleration
Aug 3, 2013
I have a 2002 Camry, V6 1mz-fe with 110k miles, recently developed a vibration which only occurs on acceleration, consistently noticeable at 2100-2500 RPM during acceleration. Acceleration above or below this RPM range is smooth otherwise. Coasting and braking are smooth. This vibration has never happened on the car before, which has been smooth all 110k miles prior.
The vibration was initially pretty bad, felt through the car, steering wheel, floor, and seats. I have since replaced both CV axles and wheel hub bearings, with some improvement. Also got new tires and wheels are fine. I replaced a bad dogbone engine mount at the top passenger side a few thousand miles ago.
Other considerations at the moment include bottom engine mounts, since my dogbone went out before. Other Google search suggestions include spark plugs, exhaust pipe bracket, transmission mount(?).
What could cause such an RPM specific vibration/shudder?
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I now have an '01 Mountaineer with AWD and the 5.0. I have a strange vibration that only seems to happen when I accelerate as I get on the highway. I get up to speed and just as I let off on the throttle I get a vibration/shudder from the rear. Almost as if I ran over the rumble strip on the side of the highway. It's a short grrrr, then it goes away.
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I just bought my 2015 F350 long bed Platinum a month ago, and the first trip with my 12,000 lb. 5th wheel had a vibration when starting out, but only from a stoplight with some acceleration or an incline, not at level slow startup.
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I have this bucking a jerking when pulling my Sundowner LQ horse trailer, primarily in the 40-50 mph range. I can let off throttle and it stops but resumes unless I feather the throttle.... 2008 f 350, 4WD, 6.4, 48k miles....
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I have a 2010 Camry 2.5 liter with 150k miles. I have begun to notice a shudder around 30-45 mph during normal acceleration. It does not happen during a hard acceleration. As I watch the rpm's when the car shifts the shudder happens after the rpm's drop when the car is engaging in the next gear. After some research I'm led to believe I have a failing torque converter. If it is the torque converter can just the converter itself be replaced or does the whole transmission need to be replaced.
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2014 Passat 1.8T Gen III manual... Experiencing an audible rumbling with vibration at the front/mid of vehicle under specific circumstances.
*93 octane tune (high torque at low rpm)
*barely perceptible in 3rd, but more in 4th and very much in 5th
*about 1700-2200 rpm ONLY when deep into boost - as soon as I even slightly reduce torque, it goes away
*seems to be related to engine firing frequency (i.e., 2000 rpm = 66Hz firing frequency...still audible and tactile at same time)
*not related to road speed
*sweeping through problem area in 1st or 2nd goes too fast to develop the rumble.
Hypotheses:
*half shaft shake (torque related dynamic runout)
*engine mount/trans mount groundout from torque reaction
*exhaust system ground out due to torque reaction.
It doesn't feel like a misfire, not slipping clutch. I would hate to have to get a 91 octane tune or just avoid the sweet torque at 2k!
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I have an 07 LE V6 with 76,000 miles. I am lowered on coilovers and have 20 inch wheels. so i have a small vibration while normal acceleration between 10-20 mph once i go past 20 mph it goes away. If I am accelerating heavy I feel the front vibrating all the way up until i let go of the gas. i can feel the pedal and steering wheel a lot and the whole car vibrates kinda hard.
I got new tires and replaced the pass side axle already. at first i thought it was the axle since the boot was leaking and i heard the clicking noise. I've even tried putting my stock wheels back on n i still feel it. I am going to lift the car up and try to find whats going on and what to look for under the car.
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Vehicle is a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer with 123,000 miles. During moderate to hard acceleration in a straight line, especially in gears 1 to 3, the front of the car vibrates. The harder I accelerate, the worse the vibration gets. Once I get into 4th gear and get up to 40 MPH, I can put the pedal to the floor and while it will do it, it is very slight. Check engine light is off.
Interestingly, on the way to work there is a 25 MPH cloverleaf and coming out of the cloverleaf onto the highway, it did not do it until the wheels were pointed straight ahead.
Deceleration, even when aggressively downshifting, is vibration-free.
I do not believe it is ignition related - the car idles fine, has plenty of power under hard acceleration, and doesn't do it when going around that cloverleaf. (As a side note, about a year ago a plug wire went bad, leaving one cylinder with no spark. In this case the engine vibrated violently, but was obviously down on power.)
There are no strange noises in the front end. No clicking around corners typical with a failing constant velocity joint, and no mechanical thuds or sqweaks over bumps I'd expect from a failing ball joint or bushing.
I am having some unusual tire wear on the outside edges of the tires, like you would see with under-inflation, but tire pressure is fine. In my mind, this points to bad ball joints.
It still has the original constant velocity joints and axles as well as the original ball joints. The one motor mount I can see looks okay. I'm thinking in order of liklihood (most likely to least likely):
1) bad axle
2) bad ball joints
3) bad motor mount
Anything else I need to check? Wheel bearings? If I do replace the axles, I will replace the front wheel bearings while I'm in there.
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2014 Camry, 4 cyl. 65K ... Wife's car has developed a vibration that is going to be hard to get a dealership service group to troubleshoot due to randomness. I drove it for 30-45 mins today and have this description:
-Vibration, either described as a 'buzz' or a 'high frequency vibration'
-Happens in the 28-38mph range (different points)
-Under very slight acceleration. (hard acceleration efforts produce nothing)
-Can't swear to it, but feel like it is always in 'high' gear
-feel it in 'seat of pants', NOT through the steering wheel
-Is faint on sound, but you can hear something
-Is typically only a second or two
-Is very hard to 'create', but then happens unexpectedly.
-My wife first reported it to me, and I took my son on the test drive today and he could feel it as well when it hit, but couldn't pinpoint it as it comes and goes so quickly, but again, you feel it in the seat/butt more than anywhere else.
I've checked lug nuts to try to eliminate something easy and they are fine.
Since it is relatively slow speeds and under very slight acceleration, can there be a 'solenoid' that is creating a false shift effort, but just vibrates the trans instead? Without any info other than what I have stated above, I'm leaning toward transmission, but again, probably not enough info to go on....
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I have a 2002 Camry xle v4. It has a hesitation at low acceleration. I've replaced EVERYTHING: Mass Flow Sensor, 2 O2 sensors, plugs, etc. This past weekend I changed the plugs again with a better quality than before and the hesitation went away....for 2 days! Now its back.
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My 2002 Camry has been a blessing. Just the normal maintenance with no major problems. I do have one concern. At exactly 40 MPH, I thought a tire was either out of balance or something similar. It feels like a shudder or bumping feeling (hence the thought about tires) but going a bit faster 42 and up it disappears. Obviously, has to be something in engine but where to I start to look?
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My Camry has about 338K miles. Started making an engine rattling noise on acceleration. suspected worn timing components. I have all timing components off now. Of course plastic chain guides are worn, tensioner plunger seemed to be a little rough in actuation, exhaust cam sprocket does show signs of wear. I dont know for certain that replacing all timing components will clear noise. Questions are: considering mileage should i just replace all the timing components or the likely cause of the rattle noise(whatever that may be)? Should i replace the oil pump while i have pan off? How much trouble would it be to pull head and do valve job at this point? Lastly....2002 Camry has the 2.4 VVTI with the intake cam sprocket. How do i replace this sprocket and is it difficult?
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I have a 2002 Camry with a 2003 engine in it. Recently, I have been noticing a vibration that seems to be in the front end, and can be felt on the steering wheel as well. It only happens at around 45 MPH and up. It has been a while since I have been on the interstate so I am not sure if it smoothes out at 70 or not.
The vibration is only when accelerating, it stops if you let off the gas. Going down a hill it stops, but going up a hill it vibrates.
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My 2002 camry has a vibration feel while pumping the brake pedal (no other vibration from car). It happens, when you drive slow or fast and stop. Happens when the engine is not even turned on and the brake pedal is just pumped. Its hard to describe the feeling other than zig zaggy on the way down, pulsating, etc. It starts to feel this way on the way down and halfway through the press ends smooth.
I took it to a auto mechanic two days ago and he stated the car had zero brake issues. Rotors and pads are in good condition (sometimes these are the cause for the vibration, but only when driving and stopping), fluid level are good etc. I asked him to test it out and pump it slowly or adruptly, at standstill or while driving, but he still couldn't understand what i was talking about. Researched on the net and found out the likely problem has to do with either Brake booster pump or Master brake cylinder. From a tsb (like a recall note from toyota, see below) , it seemed certain it had to do with the master brake cylinder. I took it to Toyota today and they stated it had to do with the brake booster pump instead , its not worth fixing bc it cost an arm and a leg. Just now i stopped by Active Green + Ross at 110 Gerrard and he stated that its most likely the Master Brake Cylinder, since if you were to pump on the brake while the car was off, turn on the ignition, and if the pedal goes down smoothly , the booster pump should be ok. (it does go down smoothly)
He also stated that for a refurb master cylinder (non toyota) + labour it would come out to 250 bucks. The dealership was going to charge me 1500 for the booster pump and labour. They also advised not to used non toyota parts.
This issue does not hamper safety issues with the car. Its more of an annoyance that i'd like to take care of. I also don't want to pay 1500 for a car with 150k on it.
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On our trip to Daytona this weekend I noticed a vibration/shudder between 45-55mph. Above and below that range it doesn't happen. Dont feel it in steering wheel or pedal. Does it in both 3rd and OD. Got under truck and driveshaft doesn't move at all. Just got those new tires put on a couple weeks ago. Don't remember this vibration before that.
Just checked tire pressure - front right 48 psi. All the rest have about 45 psi, would that do it? I have a shudder in brakes from stops above 45 mph I'm assuming warped rotors, could that do it?
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I have a 99 Suburban with very high miles. Going on 306K mostly highway miles. This is our baby and the best vehicle I've ever owned. This is a solid vehicle that I think we can get more miles out of.
The problem is that it will intermittently surge or shudder between 40-60mph during acceleration. It's hard to pinpoint because it doesn't happen all the time. It seems to be worse if the vehicle is low on gas or the engine is cold but I'm not certain about that. It's not hard enough to call a buck, jerk, or sputter though. Maybe I've over-analyzing but basically it will shift to the correct gear and then back down then back up etc., and back and forth for very brief seconds. Then levels out after 60mph and there are no other problems. If the gas is low or engine is cold is does this in lower gears as well but usually only around 4th gear. I hope this description makes sense.
Here's where I'm confused. The transmission was rebuilt 2 weeks ago specifically the torque converter and rear planetaries. The day we got it back we performed a tune-up so all new plugs/wires/cap/rotor. The fuel filter was replaced about 8 months ago and the fuel pump 2 years ago. All regular maintenance has been performed on time since we bought it 4 years ago. Yesterday the Service Engine Soon light came on and it only showed one code (OBD II), PO161, so we replaced the 02 Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 2).
However the problem persists and there are no other codes providing any direction. I've tried to search the internet for drivers with the same issue but the fixes vary too much and seem uncertain.
Other known issues for diagnostics: four wheel drive hasn't worked for years (haven't needed it in our flatlands) and ac compressor went out last spring.
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I have an 82 GMC suburban with a 6.2 diesel, TH400 transmission and a NP265 transfercase. The last day of June we moved from Greeley Colorado to Southern South Dakota. Tems were as high as 107 that day. I had to stop several times to let the transmission cool. I didn't want to burn it out. I was towing a Hyundai Accent (2002) on a Uhaul Car Dolly. The trans temp gauge registered as high as 210 degrees. If it got hot I would stop and let it cool. However recently I changed the rear axle, the pinion spider gears seized and exploded. I think I went from a 3.73 gear to a 3.08. However I am not certain. Certainly seems like it when I pass people at 30 according to the speedometer that used to pass me. However, recently it seems to have developed an occasional shudder as I accelerate. It's mainly after alot of in town driving. I checked the brakes, serviced the rear end, and checked the fluid levels.
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My '04 Santa Fe (135K miles) has been doing this for a little while.
Between 65 - 75 MPH on the highway, under acceleration, I experience what I can only describe as a "shudder".
I don't believe it's a wheel balance issue, because if I'm coasting or maintaining that speed everything is stable.
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I bought a 1991 Dodge Shadow from a private owner and he told me it needed a trans mount but upon inspection the mount seems to be fine the car will shudder upon first acceleration and a louder shudder shifting from 1st to 2nd. So I was leaning more towards a cv axle rather than the transmission mount still not sure. Only have this problem under a load 60-65 mph seems to drive fine and no viberations!!!!
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Ok here's the situation. 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 AWD 170,000 miles.
I recently had to replace the front passenger side Drive axle. That was a piece of cake. However, since then the car has developed a shudder when it comes to stop (felt like the shudder on acceleration that was fixed by the dealer with a reflash). Suddenly it got so bad that it stalls when put into gear with the brake on. It feels like it is not coming out of converter lockup.
When I drained the fluid I replaced it with Valvoline Import multi-vehicle full synthetic (it says it is spiII). I latter added another half quart of Castrol transmax import multi-vehicle (also spIII). Did I screw up my trans? Will a flush work? Or do I just need to replace the trans and torque converter?
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I have a 2005 Subaru Outback, 3.0 H6, LL Bean, 5 speed auto. 150,000 miles. No engine codes.
I bought it took two years privately. I didn't notice during the test drive, but it has a shake/shudder at 18-20mph and at 55-60mph. Only at those speeds and only during acceleration. During light acceleration it isn't noticeable, but hard acceleration particularly on a hill at 55-60 the car can shake quite violently. Probably 50% of the time the 18-20mph shudder doesn't occur. It feels like the whole of the front of the car is shaking from side to side.
It doesn't matter what gear it's in - auto/auto sport/manual 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or 5th. So it's not engine rpm related. I've had the transmission fluid flushed. I've had two sets of tires. I've had the prop shaft replaced. It still does it, and it hasn't got better or worse. It happens both during straight line and turns.
The engine runs smooth and the gear shifts are crisp and smooth. Our local dealer doesn't know what it is (they suggested prop shaft) and our highly recommended local transmission shop doesn't know what it is. All CV joints have been checked.
I think the big clue here is that it is very vehicle speed dependent; 18-20 and 55-60mph.Could it be something to do with the transfer clutches? Does this transmission have an electronic control computer that needs an update? (This is a first year model). Is there vehicle speed sensor used by the transmission that could be bad but that wouldn't trigger an engine code? Unfortunately I can't disable the rear wheel drive like on the 4 speed transmissions, there is no fuse to do that.
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