I was driving my 02 camry se v6 last night and I got up to about 85 mph and it wouldn't accelerate anymore. I checked my fluids and everything seems legit and it shifts good, but there was thin white smoke coming from the trans dipstick.
View 2 RepliesOccasionally when I'm driving, I'll accelerate and get a brief loss of power, then it'll pick back up, followed by a puff of white/blue smoke. This usually happens when the oil is over 120*, but not quite to full operating temps. It doesn't happen every time either. Only 3 times in the past week. Otherwise, there is a very faint haze of white smoke that seems to be constant. It is very difficult to see unless against a dark background. Oil level is good, I check it once a week, no rising or lowering levels.
I pulled the EGR yesterday, all good, although a tad dirty. Cleaned up no problem. Haven't had a chance to do a bubble test yet. There are some DTCs, but I can't remember off the top of my head what they were. I'm about to go clean the inside of the truck, so I will pull those and update in a few minutes.
Truck has about 148,500 miles.
Torque Pro lists these codes: C1145, P0299, P0677
Today I was driving my R in third gear shooting up a hill and as I was accelerating the car jerked and cel light flashed and then disappeared. I lost power for a quick second and then was restored, I just recently did the 80k service... O2 sensor maybe? There is no lights on the dash....what could it be? My tires handled great
View 12 RepliesThe past couple days when driving to school in the morning i've been noticing that my car starts to rattle and struggles to accelerate once I pull out of my driveway. Once i get to the next stop sign to take off the car runs fine like nothing ever happened. My check engine light doesn't come on though. I usually let the car sit for about 30 seconds to a minute before i start to move the car. Mods I have are Unitronic stage 2, Forge 007p DV with yellow spring, and 3" downpipe.
View 1 RepliesThis car has turned into a bad dream. When it first starts in runs well for a mile or so until it warms all the way up. Then it goes into starvation mode and won't accelerate. Maybe a cough or two then it runs fine for 10 or so seconds. And goes back to stumbling. Most times I have to pull over out of traffic and wait for it to so call catch again.
I have changed plugs, wires, coil rack & fuel pump module. Because someone else looked at it before I did, they erased stored codes. I have pulled 2 codes on 2 different occasions. The first was P0134 the second was P1166. Other times no codes were stored. I did notice that if I shut off ignition & restart it runs great for 10 or 15 seconds.
My 2004 Elantra occasionally won't start. When I hold the ignition on Start, the radio loses power (but the dashboard doesn't) and nothing else happens. Sometimes, tapping the gas pedal will suddenly cause the car to start. Once, I had to stomp the pedal to the floor before it would work.
I just replaced the battery (and positive cable end since it was corroded in place) and recently replaced the spark plugs (which were badly burnt). There is a check engine code for "catalyst underperforming" which seems unrelated.
I suspect my car has fuel delivery problems. It occasionally sputters while idling and often has power loss while driving if I try to accelerate hard. It seems to have trouble shifting into 4th gear from 3rd or 5th, but that may be another issue entirely.
What I should check to diagnose this, or replace to resolve it?
Everytime i accelerate medium to hard with the CEL on like this it starts flashing and i loose power. Feels like a sputtering (in idle too). Fuel injection system cleaned and was 75% better for 1 week, but now back to same old. Reset CEL and comes back 100-200 miles later. Cam tensioner? Fuel filter? Coil packs? One of my fan clutches is pretty much out, related?
New spark plugs, maybe needs a tune up...supposedly TB was changed, but i have 106K on 1.8T 2001.5 Passat. New oil pump, timing belt tensioner put on. However A/C belt snapped and had to be put back on then tightened to work. Maybe they didn't adjust correctly at shop the timing belt tensioner?
'04 Nissan Pathfinder 3.5L ~150k: P0011 and P0021
Friend's vehicle. OBD-II codes indicate Intake Valve Timing Control Bank1 and Bank2. Vehicle drives OK most of the time, but then has lapses of lost power where you step on the gas and the vehicle doesn't accelerate accordingly. RPMs rise, but tranny doesn't seem to shift at the right time. Overdrive button OFF doesn't seem to have any affect. Codes have been erased and returned the next day.
Is this Camshaft-related, as in Camshaft Position sensor? I had this issue with my '97 Taurus, but in that case it threw the code explicitly for the CMP sensor.
I have an 05 corolla XRS. I just had a sport clutch put in about 1 year ago. Whenever I shift into 4th gear and accelerate, the RPMs drop about 500 and I lose power for about 3 seconds before it starts going back up. Other gears are acting normal. Best part is that I let my friend drive the car earlier and since he did it's been doing this.
View 7 RepliesIt's a UK VW Passat year 2000 with 1.8i longitudinal engine layout. Car has ABS
I discovered that the brakes are not releasing quickly after application. Examples where this has been noticed:
When braking and accelerating at the same time to dry brakes after puddles. Noticeable lack of power to re-accelerate when you release the brake pedal, presumably due to continued braking. Noticeable continuation of braking when trailbraking into a corner (ok sometimes I'm a bit of a racer in a family car).
What concerns me is when the snow, ice or heavy rain comes back that I might find sudden instability if the brakes aren't releasing after slowing for a corner or that worse still I'm destined for total brake servo failure.
There are no ABS related error codes although in the ice and snow I did find that the ABS fired until the pedal raised stiff and all 4 wheels just locked up (that was a fun junction crossing).
I have noticed that the drainage ducts in the bulkhead are blocked but I've never had water enter the car so I don't think it's water in the brake servo although this could have happened prior to me owning it I guess.
Working theories:
Due to slave cylinder corrosion and calipers are releasing slowly
Due to brake servo fault - either water ingress of vacuum leak
Well today I was happy go lucky on my way to work everything was going fine then all of a sudden this car in front of me slows down. Okay then I go to speed back up and my car was still crunk but I lose power I could not accelerate at all. So I had to coast to the side of the road and I put the car in park to see if it will allow me to accelerate in a different gear and when I do that.
The car shuts off then I go to crank it back up the first time and I got nothing then I wait a couple of seconds then try it again. It cranks up but still cant accelerate until I raise the engine then I can finally move. I was able to do about 65 mph to get to work but this happened two more times before I got back home that night. The car is a 2000 and has 220,000 miles on it.
I took the car to a part store to see why the service engine light was on. They told me it was a bad or faulty EGR valve but this was the first time the service engine light has flashed before.
Once day my car began idling poorly and would not accelerate beyond 3000 rpm. The check engine light began blinking and I stopped driving it.
My check engine light remained on and the obd read Cylinder 2 misfire (p0302) and random cylinder misfire (p0300). I tested the ignition coils and found that the cylinder 2 ignition coil was dead so I replaced it. The codes no longer showed but the car still would not accelerate and was firing irregularly. I checked for vacuum leaks but found all hoses connected and whole.
I tried removing pcv hose and blocked the valve with my thumb and the car instantly corrected the rough idle. I then went around the block and the car drove and fired properly. I'm unsure if I am losing vacuum pressure in the intake manifold or if the issue is elsewhere?
2002 camry. The car will not accelerate. The throttle body makes a clicking sound when pedal is depressed.
So.. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts in it. In the mean time located a spare throttle body from a 2003 from a local yard. The old throttle body has a part number 22030-28030 and the replacement has a part number 22030 0H010. The replacement throttle body wouldn't even move when the pedal was depressed.
I put the old one back on.. and now it doesn't click anymore but the car in Park only revs to 2000 rpm's. Its not sticking or having any mechanical issue.
I checked the parts site for Toyota and the replacement is the new number. Superseded. Does the throttle body after replacement need to be reprogrammed? Or whats the deal. I wish I was more Toyota literate when it comes to this.
I have a 02 f350 7.3 with 296,000k its been running ruff lately with a serious loss in power. The truck sounds good at idle starts up fine but when im on the throttle under load it almost crackles and sometimes bucks. I thought its was injectors replaced them all with stock ford remains but didn't fix the problem. I have AE and it passes a buzz test but i did a KOER test today and it started what seemed like a misfire during the test my ICP went to 2400-2500 and my IPR was at 38%. I have already put a new hpop in a couple month back along with new hpop lines do to a burst, ICP sensor, and i rebuilt the IPR valve. Not sure if this is a problem with fuel or the hpop I have also cleaned the screens in the tank and replaced the fuel pump which were pretty bad....
View 9 RepliesI have a 2002 F-250 7.3, 159k on it. I bought it in March, ran AWESOME up till now. I was driving to work last week, check engine light came on, truck lost power and started idling rough. I have a buddy who works for a Ford dealer as a diesel mechanic, he came over with his scanner and laptop. #2,#4,#8 cylinders kept coming up saying possible problems are injectors, harness, rings.. He also did an electrical check, that all checked out. He told me to get injectors, so I got 4 injectors (yes I got the correct #8 injector), valve cover gasket, injector harness and 4 glow plugs.
The parts came last Friday, we did the job and it ran great. Drove it Friday night, Saturday, Sunday morning, no issues. Sunday afternoon we were on our way to a birthday party, truck started doing the exact same thing... Check engine light, rough idle, loss of power. After I got home from the party, my buddy came back over, put it on the scanner again, getting the same codes again. Deleted the codes, ran the tests again, same codes, deleted the codes, rant the tests again, same codes.
He said he is going to come by tomorrow with the box to check each individual cylinder.
My wife has a 2002 Saturn Vue with the 2.2L 4cyl engine and a manual transmission. Yesterday she started it in the morning and backed out of the driveway. When she put it in first gear and tried to accelerate, the engine lost power and the car crept along around 5mph. The SES light came on as well. She took it to Autozone and they plugged it in but did not get any codes from it. I disconnected the battery today for about an hour, reconnected it(thinking it might be a computer issue?) and then test drove it and got the same result but this time without the SES light. The engine revs just fine out of gear or when in first gear and not trying to accelerate. It seems to only lose power when under load. I'm lost.
View 1 RepliesI own a 02 fwd v6 Santa Fe that just lost power on the interstate. It will go about 20 miles an hour and basically does not change gear unless it is in manual mode. I was able to drive it to a local repair shop but they are having trouble figuring out what is wrong with it.
First, they told me the plugs and wires were bad, changed those and still no power. Next, they told me it was the fuel pump, change that and still no power. Next, they said it was the catalytic converters but the said they unhooked them to test the theory and it still had not powered. They said it may need back pressure from the cats so that may not work. They want me to buy them but they are very expensive especially on a guess. Next, they told me if that does not fix it is must be the transmission. Will the cats off keep it from running due to back pressure? Does it sound like a transmission issue or could it be something else?
When I turn the Car on the factory Key Fob Doesn't work anymore. How can I change this? The reason I ask is that I want to install a remote start add on from Avital (4003), so I can use the factory remote to start the car, keep car locked while its running, then uses remote to unlock the car, get in and drive away. I don't want an extra remote hanging around since i am forced to carry the toyota key anyway. How to fix this or break this so it does what i want?
View 2 RepliesI bumped my exhaust pipe where it connects to the muffler pipe. Its not completely loose but it makes noise and im losing mpg. Its pretty rusted, can i get that part welded?
View 1 RepliesI bought a used 05 Camry with 98,000 miles for what I thought was a good deal. The car needed struts, sway bar links, and a little body work, all things I was capable of. The car runs great under light load, but has a terrible chug when you kick down a gear, or accelerate hard. The kicker here, it doesn't throw any codes! I've read a little bit on here and tried a couple things (cleaned throttle body, replaced MAF) with no luck.
View 6 Replies'I'm having an issue with my OBDII scanner not being able to read my ECU. I've never had issues before. I've been using a generic OBDII scanner with the Torque Android app for years but now suddenly it just doesn't connect. My biggest issue here is I have a smog check due in a few weeks. I took it to a smog check station and the guy used two different OBDII scanners with no luck. What could be the issue? Is it a blown fuse or something? If so, which fuse is it? (And no it has no aftermarket radio installed)
FYI: 2002 GTI 337