I have the 2002 V6 camry and I want to replace the PVC valve. I read through the FYI/stickies, and I can see exactly how to do it on the 4 cylinder engine, are there any instructions for the 6 cylinder engine, I just want to make sure I do the right thing?
View 14 RepliesHow to replace valve cover gaskets on 2002 430sc???
View 14 RepliesReplaced this gasket that seems to be leaking oil. Looks simple enough, is there anything i should do or know before taking on this job? It's a 2002 Accent GS 1.5L ....
View 8 RepliesSo I'll be taking on a project to replace the valve cover gasket on my 2002 Camry V6. There's a bit of leakage through the gasket. And while I'm at it, I'll replace the spark plugs as well. I'm looking for a write up on this project. did a lot of searching but couldn't find anything.
View 14 RepliesHow to remove the cover/sound dampener under the hood of my car to get at the splitter valve.
I know one side of it is plugged up. My left sprayer works fine but the right one doesn't work at all. I pulled the hose off the right sprayer and tried using the sprayers and hardly any fluid came out of the right side hose so I know the problem is in the splitter valve. The darn thing only costs about $3.50 and I don't want to go to the dealership and pay $200 to replace it.
My problem is, I can't figure out how to detach/remove the plastic discs that are holding the cover in place under the hood. I've tried using a pair of screwdrivers, slipjaw pliers and just my plain old fingers, but they don't screw out and they don't seem to want to pop out either and I sure don't want to break any of them.
How to get the cover off, do I need to get a different tool to pop the discs loose?
I have a 2002 F250 5.4with Air Conditioning. The valve covers are leaking and the gaskets need to be replaced. I am attempting the valve cover gaskets. I was able to get the drivers side cover off with some difficulty. For the passenger side valve cover. There is very little " no" room to get at the bolts. I read somewhere that I may have to drop the engine on that side. I will do that if I have to.
View 5 RepliesSo sometime last week my check engine light came on. Took my 13 Accent to the dealership and they said the purge valve is to be replaced. Now my Accent pings when running 87 gas and I read that others (not necessarily Accent owners) who changed their purge valve noticed the pinging go away.
View 5 RepliesI changed my leaky valve cover gasket today, along with my spark plugs and PCV valve. Now after driving a few minutes my CEL and oil light come on.
the car was/is low on oil from the leak. I was going to change the oil but it has been pouring rain today and it was all I could do to get the valve cover gasket done.
I put two quarts in after the oil light came on, I haven't had a chance to check the level since then.
I don't see oil leaking anywhere on the engine. I cleaned it up pretty well around the valve cover and should see any new oil easily.
How low does it have to be for the oil light to come on?
I have a 2009 Prius and the check engine light came on last week. I decided to take it to a highly recommended auto repair shop instead of the dealer. The error cord was P1121 and they replaced some kind of coolant control valve. When I went to take the car home I noticed the check engine light was still on and they said there was another similar but different coolant valve that needed to be replaced. They replaced the other part and everything seemed fine.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2002 toyota camry xle 6 cyl i believe i have a valve cover gasket leaking vehicle has 112,000 miles. is there a step by step removal proccess i can access. I have done one on a 1995 honda passport 6 cyl how difficult is it
View 2 RepliesOur 2008 Equinox with roughly 90K miles showed the "service stabilitrack" warning on a Friday, next day light was still there now paired up with "check engine" light. My husband did something to the "stabilitrack" button which made both lights go away for a couple of days. Then both of these returned. Took the vehicle to the dealer (we always do for service, we just don't know some good mechanics in our area and so far we had not had any major issues with the vehicle).
They tell my husband it is the EGR valve that supposedly needs replacement and that the reason it got to be bad is because we failed to maintain / clean the fuel injectors so those need to be washed / cleaned / serviced too so that the whole issue is resolved. No mention about the "stabilitrack" thing at all. Due to our needs of the vehicle and our lack of cars knowledge we agreed to it without looking into it further.. Lights have been off since that and we didn't think much of it.
But then this weekend we got this "recall" letter in the mail for that very same vehicle... talking about the "check engine light" being the issue and an apparent leak of gasoline (via odor or visual leak)... Maybe these are totally unrelated ...
I checked the manual for the recommended maintenance and nowhere there is mention of regular maintenance needed for the fuel injectors.. I looked online and while there seems to be varied opinions most of them agree that is something not needed; neither it is the EGR valve replacement... so now I am really wondering! Was it all for nothing? And how is one supposed to know this. Is the "check engine" light enough of an issue to maybe think this was the right thing to do?
I purchased a build Dec 05 1.3l Yaris several months ago. I recently started to get a check engine light, so I did a scan of the computer and it returned a P0012 error. Though multiple searches, I learned that this is likely due to the Camshaft Timing Control Valve Assembly or possibly the OCV filter.
Further searches haven't been able to reveal which parts I need to purchase to replace these items. I can only find details for the 1.5l engine.
The engine is: 2nz-fe, model: ncp90r-agmrkq
1. I don't even know where these parts are located on the car?
2. What part numbers do I need to purchase to replace?
2002 Camry 4 cyl was leaking a small bit of oil on the rear passenger side of the valve cover - about directly behind where the timing chain is. I replaced the valve cover today, but noticed that there is still a small amount of oil leaking at the same spot. Is this a common problem with the '02 Camry? Or perhaps I have a valve cover problem?
View 2 RepliesThats what my mechanic told me about my 2002 exploder sport trac with 4.0. I started another thread here a while back about my truck having a bad miss, turns out it has a broken valve spring. He said the engine must be removed to do the job as its on the #1 cylinder which happens to be on the passenger side and the cam chain drive is on the back of the block.
He said my choices are: Remove the engine and just replace the spring, which may or may not effect a repair as theres no way to know if the valve made contact with the piston. Remove the head and send it off to a machine shop for repair/inspection. Or, remove both the heads, one for repair and inspection, the other just for inspection, and then put the whole mess back together.
Whats the best option here? I'm not exactly made of money, and, I'm still licking my wounds about having such a mechanical disaster take place on a vehicle that up until this point, I absolutely loved and has only 90,000 miles on the clock.
I've got a 2007 2.4L Camry engine that I am rebuilding, and my son messed up the order that I took off that valve lifters. (the spacing thing that goes between the cam lob and the valve spring) I have my intake separate from my exhaust but I don't know where the individual one's go on the intake and on exhaust side. The book I have for the car does not tell me where they go.
View 3 RepliesJust got the battery replaced on my v6 Camry, had no problems before it. After replacing the battery, I drove about a mile to another stop and parked the car. Noticed it vibrating and the idles very low. I restarted the car and it wouldn't stay on. Car will turn on fine, RPMs will go a bit above 1k and drop down and turn off in about 5 seconds.
Today morning I started it and it seemed fine (cold start). Idles were about 1K on a cold start. Drove around about a mile and came home and the car stalled. Same as above, it'll start up and stall within 5 seconds.
I took it for a drive (about 25 miles) so the car can re-learn everything and took a stop at Autozone. Same thing there. Didn't stall on the way because I didn't have to stop, I was on the highway. One of the sales guys looked at the car and told me to try out a new MAF Sensor. Installed a new sensor and the car died off again within 5 seconds. Checked the readings of the MAF sensor (old and new) and they both read fine.
Brought the car back home (about 35 miles total driving after battery replacement) and it'll still stall as soon as you stop. To keep it going, you have to hold the brake and hit the accelerator very lightly to keep the idle in the middle of 0 and 1 or shift into Neutral and do the same.
No CELs on the car, car drove perfectly fine before the new battery. New battery tests good, even went to the extent of putting my old battery back in (Drove about 35 miles on new battery, replaced and drove 35ish miles). Car has just short of 100k miles. Regular services are done at Toyota at about 5-6k.
2002 Camry 4-cly. Last year, we the A/C light blink and the relay switch was then replaced. Worked for a bit, but then realized the Compressor Clutch was sticking and causing it to not turn on, at times shutting the engine off at idle!
Me and the wife replaced the entire AC system (Per regional mechanic)
AC Compressor
Accumulator
Desiccant
Well, the AC intermittently comes on and the A/C green light would flash. Over the past several weeks, the AC eventually become non-functional. Bringing the car back into the shop for a warranty claim, they measured the electrical power on the Compressor and it checks out fine. Paid $50 for the "diagnostic" and they suggested replacing the relay once again. We have an official Toyota (Denso) and one from AutoZone, and tried both relays with no luck. I don't know what else could be checked or considered being replaced?
i have a 2007 toyota camry that has lost a valve on one cylinder. 3.5 engine front cylinder on the right. is this common on just a fluke?
View 9 RepliesI have an 2002 Volkswagen GTi 337 edition with the 1.8t engine in it. My check engine light came on so I went to my local autozone to check the code and that's what code it threw on the ODBII sensor. It says my problem could be a "failed clutch vacuum vent valve switch". It also revs about 100-200 rpms extra in between shifts and I'm not a mechanic but know a little about cars. I just don't know if I should replace the OEM clutch safety switch or what I should do about this.
View 19 RepliesI'm trying to pin point the cause of this vibration on a recently replaced engine. 2007 camry 2azfe 2.4L manual
The engine runs fine at idle and drives as it should. However.. there is now a noticeable vibration and sound coming from the replacement engine that wasn't there before on the original engine
The sound seems to be coming from the intake side of the cylinder head. the sound and vibration/rumble seem to increase as rpms increase. All the engine mounts are good. it's not a rattling sound.. double checked to make sure nothing was loose.
When I received the replacement engine I didn't check the internals. the engine supposedly has around 40k miles. came in as a complete longblock. I did note that the cylinder did have some blue colored dye inside the intake and exhaust ports. I dont know what this engine went through before i got it.
It almost sounds like a loud aftermarket intake when you step on the gas. Its extremely annoying driving down the road.. because of this constant vibration/hum/rumble.
Changed my oil today and check the air filter. I noticed that there is oil on the air filter, so I'm thinking the PCV valve is bad (car has 136,000 miles). I want to check it but I'm not sure where it's located. Where it's located (pictures would be great) and how involved it is to replace?
View 4 Replies