Camry :: 2002 V6 - Cranking And Hard Time To Start
Dec 30, 2011
I have 2002 camry V6, I did a battery replacement few months ago. It gave me hard time to start, cranking but will not ru,. I did clean the throttle body and was fine. I left the car for few days, came back will not start,you hear the starter but no cranking, a neighbor mechanic kept starting and did start. He said it needs tuning. The car has 104 k miles on it.
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Stuck at Starbucks at the moment waiting for my car to get towed. Thought I would post here to get some feedback.
I have a 2002 4 cylinder Camry that is refusing to start. The battery seems OK as all the lights are on. The car is not turning over either (cranking).
The car has had no issues (touch wood) since I got it at 50k miles. It is currently at 100k miles.
I believe the issue is with the starter. When I started the car earlier today, I noticed it started a little differently then before. It took a second or two longer to start.
Does the problem can be a starter? I am getting the car towed to my house in about an hour.
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This question is for recommendations on whether to have the dealer service (clean) the Camry's ignitors
In a previous posting, I mentioned that my Camry was hard to start after sitting in the garage for 2-3 days. Dealer "diagnosed" (guessed?) it as a weak battery, tho the cranking speed seemed pretty normal (peppy)to me. My first thought when it would not start was the fuel system (fuel pump) or dirty ignitors.
I asked my regular mechanic for an opinion on cleaning and he pretty much said "don't" unless there isa specific problem (eg engine check lite).
Could I hear from the group whether ignitor cleaning ($210) as a "preventive maintenance" is a good idea? I am not about to disassemble the throttle body or some such and do it myself, but I AM OK with adding acan to my gas tank, if it won't hurt and can work.
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Camry 2002 LE (4 cyl Auto), 140K mi
This morning, for the first time I can recall, the car would not start right away. Had been sitting in the garage for 2+ days. Starter would crank just fine, but engine would not fire. No lites were left on overnite. Finally (after about 6+ attempts), engine started -- runs fine now.
Took it to TOY dealer. Their diagnosis: weak battery, alternator low output.Happy, had recently (6 mos) replaced battery after 4 years of use, so got a new battery N/C.TOY ran a charging system check and it shows "Alternator Condition: OK" (midway between shitty and great I recall).
Funny, but my first thought when it would not start was the fuel system (fuel pump) or dirty ignitors. I did ask my regular mechanic for an opinion, and he thinks it might indeed be the fuel pump -- perhaps a clogged filter.
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2002 Camry XLE. Turn the key and get a hiss, not cranking. All lights function properly. Battery is about 2 yrs old.
Here is a video. (turn up volume) [URL] .....
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I have a 1999 f250 7.3 psd. it cranks and will not start, it use to crank for a bit of time and then start and now it refuses to start. If I leave the key in start position for like 30 seconds it use start and now it wont. I am thinking it is something with the glow plugs?
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I've had an intermittent problem on my DSG GTI. It will crank about 5 - 10 seconds before it turns over. It doesn't happen all the time. I've also noticed it stalling out after start up occasionally.
After several trips to my lame dealer they can't find anything wrong or duplicate the problem.
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Lately my '03 1.8t with 90k has taken to long cranking before firing.Once it fires, it runs rough for about two seconds and then smooth as usual. Thought it might be Fuel pump relay but I'd think that'd show a fault light. Same with Fuel pump?No faults showing up. Plugs changed 9k ago. Only run Premium Shell.
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Today i went to the store and my toyota camry 2002 with 4 cylinder turn on fine. i came back home and car also turned on. after 3 hours, i decided to take a short trip but this time the car was not turning on. there is no cracking, radio and headlight dont turn on. i thought it could be the battery, i used a multimeter and see that i get a 12.6 volt but still no headlight or radio.
The battery is 3 1/2 years old but the fact i get a 12.6 v make me believe is not the battery. I get a little bit of light in the dashboard and when i try to turn on the car it looks like the dashboard light get dim as well as the indicator in the dashboard such as battery indicator, abs, oil etc.
The starter was changed 2 years ago. The car turn on normally before, no sign of long cranking or anything like that. So I think it is not starter either but not sure. when the starter went bad 2 years ago, there was no cracking but the car made a click sound when try to crank. Now there is no click sound and this is why i think it is not the starter.
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We have a 2009 S60 2.5T that has trouble starting in temps around 25 degrees and below. It skips/hesitates when cranking.
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So I recently bought a Hyundai Elantra Gt 2003 that I totally love. But ever since I bought it, it struggles to turn on. It makes a cranking noise before it turns on, and it takes about 2 to 3 times for it to fully turn on. I changed the crank shaft sensor and the fuel pump. What can it be?
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Bought 02 350 DRW, started hard first day, now not cranking. Seen a post on neutral transmission switch and mine is not lining up, but need to adjust the rod out of transmission also? I was able to match lines on switch but with flanges on fitting it will move back out of place when moving it to fit in bolts.
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On cold and/or wet days weak engine cranking. After a couple of attempts to start, I only hear a click about the 3rd attempt. If I wait about a minute or two, it still cranks slow but starts. Battery was replaced about 6 months ago. Electrical systems test good indicating no problem with battery, altenator, or starter. I don't seem to have any problem on warm days. My car is 4-cyl with about 85,000 miles and is kept in an unheated garage. Mechanic thinks trouble is likely the starter. Problem is intermittent, I'm not sure replacing the starter will fix the problem.
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2004 Malibu 3.5 v6. 101,000 miles. In order to get engine running gas pedal has to be pushed all the way down to get it started. Engine will not start by turning key. Car initially starts sputters and then dies. Pedal to the floor while cranking engine fires and runs. Which direction do I go first at. Ignition or Fuel. What should the fuel pressure be with key on engine not running ?
What should pressure be at while running ?
What is the time frame pressure should hold at and for how long ?
Ignition, Coil,Wires,Plugs. Are these the only ignition parts to look at?
Check engine light is on but has leak in exhaust. Exhaust needs to be welded. All parts above are original. Neither Fuel Pump nor Ignition Component have not been changed. Which do I do first ?
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This is kind of strange, I have a hard start problem, when I crank it the first time, it fires immediately, kind of like a romp, but doesn't start, then when I crank again I get a lot of whitish smoke and no start. I read to try and unplug the ICP and try it. That worked, and I had oil in the connector. I replaced the ICP, but have the same problem. I still have to unplug the ICP for the truck to start. When it does start, it runs great! No injector stiction, no smoke, no rough idle, it runs and sounds great. Why unplugging the ICP is still required to start? (Only after sitting for more than 10-12 hours).
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I've been working through with hard starting on my 2002 7.3 A while back I took my batteries to Autozone and had them check them. They said they were fine but because of my hard/no start situation cranking on it for a short time (couple of minutes) kills the battery. The transmission shop said that they had to charge it after sitting for a couple of days to get it started. I have a multi-meter and know how to check the voltage. I even have AE and it gives me the voltage. Are there any other tools or procedures to check the health of the batteries?
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I have a 2001 F-350 7.3L Powerstroke. 48,000 miles. I've been having trouble with cold starts. So far it has always started but is taking a lot of cranking, but it hasn't gotten too cold yet so I'm worried about when it does. I ohmed out the the glow plugs and am getting close to 0 resistance. The GPR has 12.5 volts on the hot side and when the relay is closed 10.5 on the other side. Is that difference in voltage in the GPR enough to screw up the Glow Plugs heating up? If I plug it in at night it starts right up. I'm worried about when I am at work for 16 hours and don't have a place to plug it in this winter. BTW this is my first winter with the truck.
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My '93 Honda Accord has developed a problem with starting and holding its idle. After the car has sat overnight or for several hours, it may be hard to start. (Sometimes it starts right away!)
It can take several minutes to start idling well or it may be fine in seconds. It's all very inconsistent.
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I received a remote start for xmas and I'm usually pretty handy, but I've hit a wall today. I've got it responding to the code and turning the car on but it doesn't spin the starter. I've checked the hood switch by holding it down while hitting the code and it doesn't appear to be prohibiting starting.
2007 Camry XLE
[URL] .....
Here's the Main Power Harness and my connections:
Red, Red + White -> Black: Constant 12v
Violet -> Blue: Starter
Pink -> Yellow: Ignition
Pink + White -> Pink: Ignition 2
What would be keeping it from cranking the starter?
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Code P0322 Mod10 Ignition/Dist Engine Speed Input Circuit no signal. Car had a hard time starting, then stalling, now it has been fine since the weekend.
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So my 1.6 accent (140,000) decided to no longer start. Just keeps cranking but doesn't ignite. Plugged a scanner in and it's the crankshaft position sensor. How difficult is this to get to? From what I've ready its just held on one end by a 10mm bolt and the older end is just a connector, but it looks like it might be in a pain in the ass location. Does anything need to be taken off first to access? Should this take less than 30 min?
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