Camry :: 2002 Transmission Suddenly Started Slipping When Warm
Dec 9, 2013
I have a 2002 Camry i4 with 158k miles. The transmission on it suddenly started slipping one day last week. My wife drove it in the morning and came back to say it was slipping and lurching a bit. I drove it in the afternoon around the block a few times to check it out, all normal. In the evening, wife took it out again and it dies 3 miles out. When I showed up, I was able to get it crawling at 5-10mph, but the engine was at near redline. So definitely slipping. Got it towed back home. The next morning, I back it out of the driveway and then up the driveway again just to see, and it seems fine.
This leads me to believe the issues is only when the transmission is warm. Transmission fluid is at a normal level. Dark red and smells bad, so due for a change. Is it too late to save the transmission?
Over the weekend, I drained and filled the transmission fluid with new T-IV (not a complete flush) to see. Drove it around the block a few times and no slipping, but I can hear a faint hum/whine, similar to when in reverse gear but softer. I can't say for sure if anything improved, I would have to drive it til warm to reproduce last week's conditions. I was too nervous that it'll die completely again and I'd have to push it home. The hum was enough for me to say, yes something is still wrong.
I called local mechanics to get quotes and advice. The ones that work on transmissions say a rebuild is required at a cost of $2000. Others say replace the transmission with used (new would be too expensive). Waiting for quotes on that. One guy suggested that the transmission computer would've failed to cause transmission to fail, so rebuild of both the computer and transmission is necessary. Does that make sense? Seems questionable to me.
What indication is it that the transmission would only slip when warm? Is rebuild or new transmission really my only option?
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I have an automatic gti/337 , on friday my transmission started slipping , while I would be driving on D the rpm would rev like crazy as if it was on N, I had to decelerate then accelerate in order for it to work. anyways i changed the transmission fluid and still having the same problem.
Ill be taking it to a mechanic tomorrow, but what to expect tomorrow? Its a 2002 two doors gti/337 ...
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I just got my transmission replaced with a used transmission. Ever since we got it, it had been occasionally slipping on 2nd to 3rd. I thought it was most likely just adjusting to the new car as it started to get a little better, but it got worse. On the way back from McDonald's, about 3 miles, I stopped 4 times and it happened every time. It mostly only happens when it's at or below 2 rpm but it's happened once above it. The rest of the gears shift nicer than they have before and 2nd to 3rd can be the same way just not all the time. I plan on taking it back on Monday. Is there already a new problem with this transmission?
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My son bought a 2008 Fit new. At about 16K miles, the clutch suddenly started slipping. He barely made it to a dealer and it was replaced at no charge. Recently, the clutch suddenly started slipping again at ~32K miles. Before you say he's hard on a clutch, he drive a 95 Civic with no clutch troubles for over 140K before selling it to buy the Fit. He took the Fit to another dealer (he's in a different state now) and was told the clutch is OK, they drained some fluid out. Would excess fluid cause a problem -- after 16K miles?
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I bought a 2002 camry last month. It has 180k on it, and the previous owner says he never had the trans fluid changed.
It started to slip, so I parked it and I had it towed to a trans shop. Of course, they immediately say I need a trans rebuild.
My house was close, so I drove it home without any issues.
What are the chances that a fluid change will correct this for a little while atleast?
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1999 F150, 4.2L v6, 180K miles, 2WD. Trans is flaring (slipping) in first when warm and was told the pump is leaking too. This truck has easy use (no big towing or hard use) and when it did it the second time, we parked it. I do not want to have anything fail and really damage things inside. We dropped the pan and changed the filter and filled it with fresh Motorcraft fluid. No change.
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So I am getting really sick of my 02 Prius...it only has 124k miles on it. So what is happening now is that I'll be driving when all of a sudden the car slips into a neutral mode. The engine revs when I hit the accelerator but produces no power. So I pull over, throw it in Park, turn the car off, and when I restart, it is back to normal.
These are the codes I'm getting...I know this slippage is only one of my problems..
p1437
p3191
p3006
p3011
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My wife has a 95 chrysler town and country. We got it used. Six months and after we got the transmission started slipping around 30 or 35 mph. It was like the van would just go into neutral, take your foot off the gas and it would work properly when the gas was reapplied. I took it to two tranny shops. Both said there was nothing to do but wait for it to die. Four years and 25000 miles later it is still running. while the slipping problems seems to have stopped, it developed a new quirk. Every 4 or 5 months when entering a freeway, it will not shift into overdrive. Hence 5000 rpm at 55 mph. I'll exit the freeway. Get to a safe spot. Turn the car off and restart, the problem will be gone and if i drive on the freeway it will shift normally. It has a few other issues ac, struts etc. If the tranny is going out why fix these things? On the other hand if there is still life in it, maintaining is cheaper than replacing..
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My son changed the oil in our 97 Lexus. (It has about 185K miles) The transmission started slipping same day.
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My 1997 Hyundai Elantra's Auto transmission started slipping. I changed filter and fluid and found that 2 bolts had fallen from filter and the remaining 2 bolts were loose. It will not go in reverse and only drives without slipping much when Over Drive is turned OFF. Do you think Transmission is shot?
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I have a 1999 Passat Sedan, V6 with automatic transmission, 62K miles. The Transmission has started slipping from 1st > 2nd, particularly up hills. Took it to my local mechanic who referred me to the AAMCO next door. They changed out the fluid and filter. No luck; still slipping. They want to do a transmission repair (soft parts) for $1650 with a 12-month warranty. For what it's worth, the TCU was replaced last spring (sunroof drain clog > flood > destroyed TCU and a lot more). Everything was working OK this spring after the repairs.
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My transmission has started slipping as car shifts into 2 and sometimes 3rd gear. It races and is not engaged, so there is no power for the few seconds (sometimes longer) when this happens. Car has about 216,000 miles - and it's time to also replace tires. As I look at the estimated bill, I'm having to decide if it's still a good investment to do the work on the car. I love the car and there is no rust or other problems.
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We have a '94 Honda accord that the automatic transmission started "slipping" in a week ago. It has 240K and runs good otherwise. It was sliping after it warms and seemed to slip mainly while shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th while accelerating quickly. If you take it real easy on the gas it does not seem to slip much (the engine revs and the car does not seem to be accelerating, so I assume that means it's slipping - maybe not?).
I don't believe the auto trans fluid had been changed in over 100K+. The car sat for about 2 years and then I changed oil, replaced tires & battery and started using it with no probs until this (I've been using it for about a month now).
Today I changed the auto trans fluid (very dark/dirty but no real burn smell - and just a little metallic "shavings" on the magnetic drain plug), and drove the car fairly hard and heated everything up real good and it hardly slips at all now.
My questions are - with the fluid change making such a drastic improvement (at least for now), should I repeat the process and change it again? Should I try an aftermarket "miracle" additive to claims to prevent slipping? What about trying the Honda brand fluid vs. the "Autostore" brand Dexron VI that is recommended for Hondas requiring Dexron II (apparently they don't make D-II anymore)? Could it be something else - sensor, linkage, etc. (seems doubtful with the improvement with the fluid change?)?
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I have a 2006 GMC Yukon XL and its transmission started slipping at just under 60K miles. My local repair shop (who I trust) suggested a transmission shop that they work with a lot. Since I tow a trailer with the vehicle it seems reasonable enough to go with their suggestion to rebuild the transmission using upgraded “heavy duty” components and install a transmission cooler, which I had them do. If you are interested in seeing what they installed, I have uploaded the repair tag at [URL] ....
Right after we got the car back we took the trailer on a trip and very soon the “Transmission Hot” warning light came on. I happened to be driving very close to the transmission shop at that time so I stopped by and they replaced the transmission fluid with synthetic fluid and said that would remedy the situation. However, very shortly after leaving the shop the warning light came on again. At the time I asked the owner of the shop if the heavy duty transmission might just run hotter than the original and he told me that it should not. Well, I brought it back in and he disassembled and reassembled the transmission and even moved the placement of the transmission cooler but, long story short, the transmission hot light still comes on.
Then he changed his tune told me that the heavy duty transmission should run hotter, contrary to what he told me originally. He went on to tell me that there was no way to adjust the temperature sensor that controls the warming light so he convinced me to install a supplemental temperature gauge for the transmission. He said that the sensor was set at the factory to trigger at 180 degrees and that the transmission was likely just running a few degrees over that. So, we made a deal that he would install the gauge and if the transmission temperature stayed below 190, which he said was a safe number, then I would pay for the gauge, but if the transmission ran over 190 degrees, he would cover the cost because that would indicate that there was probably something wrong with the transmission.
He did the work but now he has once again changed his tune and is telling me that it is no problem for the transmission temperature to run as high as 250, which is 60 degrees higher than what he told me originally. So, the question is,
1) should a heavy duty transmission with a cooler run at a higher temperature than standard transmission and
2) how hot is too hot for it to run?
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I have a 2003 pilot with 182k miles on it. Just started having tranny slippage after a tranny code and burnt fluid. Changed it and did this for like the next 3000 miles. It began to start slipping between 2,3 so did a complete flush with new fluid and still same problem. Question is should I pursue the new tranny with upgrades or just look for another vehicle.
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Having problem with 5R110W direct clutch. My nephew had his 2005 SD f 250 6.0 be told that 5R110W direct clutch problems. He was towing a trailer in tow mode and it started slipping in and out, so he took it to a dealer and they said that it was the direct clutch that was causing the problem and needed to be rebuilt, he only has 40000 miles on it but they said that it is out of warranty. What do you guys think that he should do?
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Okay so I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 358, 000 miles. I replaced the transmission in 2010 with a gently used one that only had 100, 000 in it. Out had been running great until today when it started slipping in and out of overdrive. I had to turn the o/d off just to drive home and not get it over fifty. Now I don't know if I need to change the filter and fluid or just take it to a mechanic. I read on another site not to change the fluid and filter at such high mileage b/c the clutch and guys might rely on the friction of the gunk in the fluid and that new smooth fluid might keep it from running right.
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My 2004 Accent transmission with 145k miles all of a sudden started slipping while driving. It would be fine until i needed to slow down and then step on the gas again. It wouldn't catch right and it would slip. At first the pull of the slip was very slight and at times now it is very rough. My check engine light does not turn on when it slips slightly, but only when it has a really rough slip will it turn on. I had it checked at the local advance auto parts and i was told it has a 4th gear ratio that is off. The only thing that confuses me is that when i turn the car off and on it resets and works fine, that is until it slips again. If i drive carefully it usually wont slip. Could it be an electrical problem?? I changed my speed sensor when my car had about 132k miles because it went out, i replaced my ignition coils, new spark plugs/wires, tranny oil change, and filter change.
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I was towing my 20' boat and had a 4000 lb camper on back going up a grade in 85-90 degree heat when the tranny started dumping fluid. Got to the top and let it rest for 2-3 hours and refilled and was fine for the rest of the trip. This happened last summer. Truck is only driven about 1000 miles a year. I believe this is the E40D.
This year it will run smooth until after about 20 miles and then begins slipping in Drive and OD. Seems to work fine in 1 and 2. It shifts very hard and runs higher rpms before doing so. Slipping then seems to be sporadic and may not slip for quite awhile but it still shifts very hard.
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I have a 2000 mercury cougar 2.5 liter. I bought the car without doing much research. now that i have the car did research and found out all the great problems that this car has. My transmission started to make a clunk clunk noise inside and it started to slip. At first it would go on all gears. then very rapidly started to slip in all gears. In matter of hours went from being good to being crap. i had to accelerate the car to 3000rpm or higher to make the car start moving. So i bought a transmission from a junkyard. I install it and did not work. The car did not move on any direction. I pull it out and look at it and found the small shaft that goes from the torque converter to the gear body was broken. I end up getting another transmission from the junkyard. I check it and everything looked good. I install it and got everything back together and that work on reverse but no forward. To get it on reverse I had to accelerate the car to 3000rpm. I being told that if I change the solenoid inside the transmission might fix the problem. It could be the transmission module that is burned out.
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I have a 2001 Accent GL 1.6L Automatic.
Yesterday it started acting up on the freeway. I was driving about 50 during traffic hour when it started revving. I got off the freeway and moved to 35mph on surface streets, the revving continued at lower speeds but much worse (4-5k rpms going 10-15mpg). Doesn't seem to do it in idle or park. If i shut the car off it'll drive fine for a while then start acting up but when I was driving, after awhile, it did return to normal.
What could cause the problem? TPS? Transmission? Sensor of some sort?
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