Camry :: 2002 - Transmission Bucking In Reverse
Nov 22, 2013
I have a 4 cyl 2002 Camry with around 80,000 miles. Last night I put the car in reverse (flat parking lot) and the car started to buck/jerk when moving backwards. Going forward the car is fine. No check engine light.
After driving for two miles I tried putting the car in reverse a few times and it was fine. This morning I tried putting the car in reverse 8-10 times. One time I got the bucking again, went forward and then reverse again and no problem. Trans fluid was changes 5 months ago.
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I have a 2002 camry with 212000 miles on it and just lately when driving at a constant speed 60 mph or over it starts to buck or jerk a little bit and you can feel it in the seat. I've had the throttle body cleaned and put in a new mass air flow sensor and it hasn't fixed it yet. What might be causing this? It doesn't do it when accelerating or slowing down.
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Intermittent problem, noticed mostly at low speeds, where car will buck or lurch forward. Most noticeable when accelerating after a slowdown, i.e. applying gas after coasting. No check engine lights, oil & transmission fluid is full. Car has 105K miles, tranny & coolant flushed every 30K, oil changed every 3K, tuneup w/plugs& wires @ approx. 93K, timing belt @ 70k. This car is a gem, mostly driven on the highway that has been perfect until now. Things I've considered doing: replacing timing belt, transmission solenoid, computer sensor that controls tranny. My suspicion is its tranny related but maybe not. Is there a way to check/set the timing on this car? I remember years ago using a timing light on my chevy. This is weird, it will run perfect smooth in the morning and rough with lurching in the afternoon. Could be a total coincidence but it seems to run ok when its cool and not so when it is hotter.
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I've got a 2002 f250 7.3L 4x4 auto trans and I've done quite a bit of searching and cant seem to find any definite answer. I drove 40 miles today no problem. pulled into a stall at sonic and when I went to leave no reverse. I was even on a downhill slope, but it wouldn't budge. I got a friend to come up there and we tried to pull it, wouldn't budge.... I disconnected the driveshaft and it rolled downhill without us even having to hook onto it again. Once it was out I hopped in and put it in drive and it took right off.
It did feel like maybe I had to give it a little extra gas to get it moving but maybe I'm just paranoid. I know once I got on the road it was cruising 65 no problem in drive. I got it to my job and noticed that when I put it in reverse the OD off light flashes and if I mash the gas with it in reverse it actually acts like its trying to push it forwards. I did jack the rear end up and put it in reverse and the tires make a half rotation but in the wrong direction then come to a dead stop.... with the tires jacked up off the ground Drive would spin them, 2 would spin them, but 1 would stop them like somebody locked up the brakes.
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Anything else that could cause reverse to go out of an automatic tranny other than the tranny being shot? I don't know of anything but any way to keep me from replacing a tranny.
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I'm having problems with my automatic transmission in a 2002 Saturn SL. About 2 months ago I noticed a delay when I would put my saturn in reverse and it would sort of kick into gear after a few seconds (up to 10seconds sometimes). I wasn't worried much about this at first until another problem started happening. Between second and third gear it seems to be shifting slow/hard(?). I can feel where it wants to shift, but its slow to shift and actual revs high before shifting down. The problem doesn't always exist, and some days its more then others. We took it to get a transmission fluid/filter change and this didn't solve the problem. Took it back for a transmission diagnositc and GM told us we need to replace the transmission or do an overhaul. They didn't explain why really though- no clear answer. I've heard everything from the torque converter to a solenoid problem.
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Ok so about a week ago I was driving my 02 impala and I heard a loud noise while driving at 30 mph and it lasted till about 50mph. well I had my dad take it down the road while I was at work about 5 days later to hear what the noise was wondering if it might have been a hub. Well I call him an hour later cause he ain't back he says he's at the gas station and it won't reverse. Well apparently the noise was just my transmission being loud cause it was taking a while to shift. I've never had a problem with my tranny but some leakage which I think is just the gasket I just know that theres tranny fluid under my pan on one side. So I went to auto zone and they got a code for p1811. So I'm wondering if it just needs a filter and gasket change or is my tranny gone. It still shifts into gears just takes longer in 2nd and I can't drive in reverse at all?
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I have a 2002 Camry 4cyl. with 235,000 miles and recently when I had pulled into someones driveway on a downhill slope and when I put the car in reverse and tried to back out, the car revved up like in neutral then slammed into reverse like it was slipping and then slamming into gear. Forward gears seem, what maybe causing it.
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I replaced the front hubs and bearings on my brothers 2002 Camry today. He drove less than a block and developed awful grinding noise and it won't move in reverse or drive. It rolls when I put it in park. I had to pull it back into my shop. Is it possible the inner CV came loose and i didn't realize it? It all seemed to go back together fine. The new CV axle nuts were quite tight and slow to put on with my impact gun.
What else could possible go kaput when I re & re hub/bearings? And what a long ugly job to replace those bearings. Don't even think about doing this without a good hydraulic press. Up to the point of getting knuckle off, it was easy job.
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2002 Camry, Automatic Transmission
Have an occasional problem. When shifting from park to drive/reverse, I occasionally get a loud, brief (1 -2 seconds) rattling noise from the engine compartment. It's my daughter's car so not sure yet if this is a cold start only issue or if present after car has been driven, then stopped and re-started. The problem does only occur occasionally. Where to start troubleshooting? I've looked for loose external pasts with nothing found.
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I bought a brand new 2016 Camry LE. Sometimes when car sits for a while, and I shift from P to R, there is a clunking noise with foot on the brake. I tried with the parking break engage and it still does it.
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Is there a programming sequence that will keep my 2002 Camry from locking all doors when the vehicle is put in drive/reverse. I realize this is considered a safety feature but I prefer to lock them myself.
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I have a 2002 7.3 e350 quigley 4x4 Sportsmobile with 312k miles. 2nd owner. Bought it with 295k miles 2 years ago. From what I gathered the tranny is original.
After reversing at a downhill angle, stopping, and shifting the lever to Drive, the tranny doesn't seem to put Drive in gear and depending on the angle of the slope, the van will roll back or barely creeps forward even with throttle. Put it in 1st gear, and the tranny engages that in gear and drives forward no issues, then I can shift to 2nd, then Drive and the tranny shifts fine after that.
No weird tranny noises or clunking. Noticed this issue about a month ago or about a couple thousand miles ago. Did tranny service (drain, filter, fill) at the ford dealership at 305k months ago.
I can only replicate this issue when Reversing on a down slope. On a flat surface van Reverses and engages Drive like normal.
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My 2002 Camry has an automatic transmission that works fine except when it is about 20 degrees or colder. The problem is that the transmission does not want to shift from first to second gear. After about ten minutes things shift normally. Other than that I have had no issues with the transmission.
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I just got my transmission replaced with a used transmission. Ever since we got it, it had been occasionally slipping on 2nd to 3rd. I thought it was most likely just adjusting to the new car as it started to get a little better, but it got worse. On the way back from McDonald's, about 3 miles, I stopped 4 times and it happened every time. It mostly only happens when it's at or below 2 rpm but it's happened once above it. The rest of the gears shift nicer than they have before and 2nd to 3rd can be the same way just not all the time. I plan on taking it back on Monday. Is there already a new problem with this transmission?
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We are on vacation pulling the 5th wheel. On the last of the three days driving the transmission starting doing something I have never seen. When running about 60mph and starting up a grade, when I push the pedal and it should shift from OD down, it bucks really bad. It only does it under those conditions and only when towing. It does it when the tow/haul is on and tow haul is off. Also, in the afternoons on the last two da,ys the A/C has started to turn off. The fan still runs but the cooling cycles off. After a while it comes back and is ice cold but then cycles off again. It only seems to do this when the engine fan is running to cool off the engine under load. I have it scheduled at the local dealer for a transmission service and A/C check....
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I have 2002 4.2L F150 w/ Manual Transmission. The problem I have started about a week ago. I noticed it started to idle very rough and at times felt like it would almost stall if i didn't keep giving it some gas. Then a few days later it started to jerk/and buck intermittently while accelerating. I changed out the plugs and wires. My coil pack was replaced a year ago but was still under warranty so i installed a new one just in case. I cleaned and inspected the EGR valve and replaced the TPS. The rough idling seems to have cleared up but the jerking/and bucking still remains.
When the engine is cold the truck runs fine, and then as the engine starts to warm up it will jerk and buck while accelerating at any speed. Once the engine has reached its optimal temperature the jerking/bucking goes away and it runs smooth as silk. I can drive it for for a few hours with no issues whatsoever. As soon as the engine cools, the cycle starts all over again. I figured maybe the intake gaskets were on their last legs and when they heat up they seal tighter causing the engine to smooth out.
So I replaced the upper and lower plenum gaskets today and cleaned everything up. It still did not fix the problem.
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what I have is for the 10-20k miles I've own this car (now at 130k), the first mile or 2 of driving the transmission goes to a higher rpm than normal before shifting to the next gear. Is this indicative of pending failure? It has always done it. Also, I try to do the transmission drain fill every other oil change or so.
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This issue is driving me insane. I have taken it to 5 mechanics and no one can figure out what it is. I replaced all the motor mounts which did make it noticeably better but it's still there.
I can easily recreate it if I accelerate and then let go of the pedal. It's just a single jerk, almost like a jolt to the car. Also happens when turning off cruise control. It doesn't matter what speed or what gear I'm in. I can get a MASSIVE jolt if I switch it from reverse to drive or drive to reverse if I'm not at a complete stop but almost stopped.
It also feels like it hesitates when accelerating but it's not too bad. Mechanics say it's normal but I have owned many automatics and never experienced anything like this. What could cause it? It's a V6 2002 toyota camry LE.
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I have an 02 camry and the transmission appears to be leaking fluid around the transmission pan. The tranny shifts fine and I wiped the pan noticed the leak to get a little worse since the last time I was under to change the engine oil. Does that pan have a gasket or does it seal with just hi-temp sealer?
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My 2003 Camry with the 2.4 engine sometime bucks when you let off on the accelerator pedal. Sometimes when you just lightly back off on the pedal it feels as if the car is braking slightly. I do not have the problem all of the time and I'm not getting any OBD fault codes. The car drives fine except for this problem. I am thinking maybe the accelerator pedal sensor or maybe the mass air flow sensor may be the cause.
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