My mom drives a 2002 Toyota Camry with a 2AZ-FE engine and 180,000 miles on it. Recently she started hearing a rattling sound coming from the engine. She says the sound does not go away after the engine has warmed up. I took a short video of the sound. How to go about diagnosing the issue.
View 4 RepliesMy Camry has about 338K miles. Started making an engine rattling noise on acceleration. suspected worn timing components. I have all timing components off now. Of course plastic chain guides are worn, tensioner plunger seemed to be a little rough in actuation, exhaust cam sprocket does show signs of wear. I dont know for certain that replacing all timing components will clear noise. Questions are: considering mileage should i just replace all the timing components or the likely cause of the rattle noise(whatever that may be)? Should i replace the oil pump while i have pan off? How much trouble would it be to pull head and do valve job at this point? Lastly....2002 Camry has the 2.4 VVTI with the intake cam sprocket. How do i replace this sprocket and is it difficult?
View 14 RepliesI am trying to diagnose a sound that is coming from my 2001 Camry 2.2L. When I accelerate there is a load humming noise coming from the engine. It happens at all speeds and only when I accelerate.
View 6 RepliesWe have a 2002 Honda Civic EX. Recently we have heard this rattling coming from the engine. It is the same rattling no matter what speed we are at or gear we are in. When we turn the air conditioning ON the rattling stops. What do you suppose the issue is?
View 5 RepliesSo aside from many different fluid leaks, and the sound of rattling coming from my engine which I have been told is my gas pinging. I am hearing what I can only describe as the sound of a small explosion coming from under the hood. Its not as loud as a backfire, but it definitely sounds like something is combusting where it shouldn't be. its a '93 XLT V6. What could it be? how screwed am I?
View 19 RepliesMy 2005 Toyota Camry has developed this rattling noise that is always there when the engine is on. When the engine is at higher RPMs, it becomes more noticeable. Here is a quick video I took of the noise for the audio of it..
It was too dark for me to check tonight to see if there is low oil or anything (there are no lights lit up on the dash).
I drive a 2002 Mazda Protege and it's been great to me until this past weekend. I had a 4.5-5 hour trip ahead of me and Google Maps told me a more direct route (i.e. not using the interstates) would save time. It must have erroneously assumed that the highway comprising basically the entire trip would be speed limit 55-65 the entire way. Instead, I found myself slowing down to stoplights and stop signs in small villages between 15-minute sprints. At some point, the interior heat stops - the air being pulled in from outside is not being warmed at all, no matter what settings I fiddle with. Not long thereafter I notice a rattling noise behind the dash. From inside the car it sounds almost like an animal skittering around in the chassis - irregular, short and clipped. With the hood up and an ear to the engine, it sounds like a piece of plastic fluttering in the wind, but with a faint electric "crackling" quality. Soon thereafter the check-engine light illuminates.
Before long the engine overheats and I pull over to the side of the road. Nothing appears to be leaking, and the crackling sound is the only thing noticable. Being in the middle of nowhere, I jumped back in and proceeded to drive at about 35-40, which was warm on the engine but enough to get me to a small town. At this point I checked the coolant reservoir and it was empty. Bought some from Wal-mart, poured it in, and headed out. Things looked fine at first since the engine had sat cold while I was running errands, but pretty soon it was overheating again at speeds as low as 30mph. After getting it towed to my destination, I took it to a garage the next morning. They couldn't find anything wrong with it, and indeed when I drove it back to the hotel that morning the engine behaved normally, the check-engine light was off, and the interior heating was functioning properly.
The next morning, when it was time to depart (but again after an entire night of sitting in the cold), a 20 minute drive to breakfast was smooth as before. Thinking that the mechanic had either waved a magic wand or I'd gotten extremely lucky, I hit the highway and did 65 for a good 20 minutes until the engine began to overheat again. Slowing down to 45 bought a few more minutes to find an exit, but eventually I had to pull over. Popping the hood, I notice the coolant in the reservoir is bubbling to the top! Thinking the mechanic might have added more and overfilled it, I cursed him in absentia. After a good fifteen minutes of cooling off, the coolant settled and in fact drained the reservoir entirely; I refilled it to the line and, again being in rural snowtopia with few options, decided to hit the road again. Not wanting to tempt fate, I stuck to 55mph and the car ran fine for an hour and a half (with the interior heat blasting, per a friend's advice). I stopped once to check the coolant and all was as it should have been - just below the line I'd filled it to earlier. Closer to a city, I decided to experiment again and took the speed up to 60mph.
This was great for 20-30 minutes but eventually the engine began overheating ever-so-slowly and I had to pull over, let it cool off, and replace another full reservoir's worth of coolant that had disappeared before I kept going. I drove the rest of the way home going no faster than 55mph and stopping on occasion to check the coolant. It overheated once even while doing 55mph, but a 15 minute break + coolant refill bought it the rest of the trip. In summary: Although not 100% correlated, going faster than 55mph seems to trigger the engine overheating, at which point the rattling noise appears and the coolant begins to bubble its way back up the reservoir (like it's boiling?!). I'm not sure how the coolant is disappearing because I'm unable to find any leak, nor is there any extra exhaust that would suggest it's burning.
Recently when I first start my car in the morning, there is a rattling noise, which sounds like it's coming from the driver's side of the engine bay, or possibly just under the drivers side door. It only lasts for a couple of minutes. It will increase I accelerate, and then decrease as soon as I lift off the gas. After a couple minutes, the rattling goes away, and everything is right in the world. Today I drove it around the block and parked while it was still rattling away. When I put it in park the rattling went away. I put it back in drive and it came back. Then as usual it finally went away whether in drive or park. I'm completely stumped on this one. It's an '08 2.4l GLS and has 138,000 miles.
View 9 Repliesi have been hearing a rattling noise coming from the engine under acceleration only. It isn't a super consistent rattle, seems to only happen when accelerating from lower speeds. And sometimes you don't hear and other times you do. It's not a bad rattle or knock it's more of a ticking/light rattling sound that is definitely abnormal.
I know my brake accumulator is barking at me and the 3 way coolant valve is going bad as sometimes I get a constant pumping sound. I don't think these have anything to do with it but thought I'd mention it.
I noticed recently that on my 2007 Camry i4 @ 110k miles, engine rattles pretty noticeably when I have the AC on AND while on reverse. Once I either turn off the AC or shift to D drive the rattle is no more. This noise is pretty consistent.
Not sure if this is a common problem, but could this be a problem with the water pump/alternator?
I have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder with ~143K. When I start the engine I can hear a slight rattling noise. When I rev the engine the noise seems to go away (or it is just masked). I noticed the noise after the check engine light came on twice and I had it checked by an exhaust shop. The code was for an O2 sensor, but the exhaust shop said everything looked fine to them. This was about 7K ago. I jacked the car up a few weeks ago to check the exhaust for anything obvious, but couldn't find anything loose to explain the rattle.
I hit the exhaust pipe with my fist and heard a rattle a few times, maybe from the catalytic converter, but I am not certain. Everything runs/operates fine, smooth acceleration, fuel economy is unchanged, engine temperature is unchanged, but the noise persists. I don't know if it is just normal due to age and nothing to really worry about, or if it is the first sign of trouble. I have also noticed that I am using about 1/2 quart of oil between changes, but I'm fairly certain that started before this noise.
I got a 2007 Camry 2.4 l4 engine under the hood and its didn't start this until we had a garage change the oil never did this when toyota changed it. Mostly when the engine is cold started there is a little bit of a rattling noise it will make until engine is warmed up and once its warmed up at times it will still sound kinda bad when it runs at normal engine temperature but this mostly occurs on cold starts and didn't start doing it until a regular garage changed the oil this never occurred when toyota dealership changed it
I don't know what kind of oil that was used in it last at that oil change but it started that about a week or so after that. Car currently has about 133,000 something miles on it ... Its not that loud of a noise but its noticeable when all doors are closed.
I have a 2009 Toyota Matrix S. There is a rattling noise coming from my engine compartment whenever i drive 60+ mph. It sounds like it's metal on metal. Nothing is loose inside. I took it to the dealer and they told me the water pump bearings were bad and replaced my whole water pump. That didn't resolve my problem. The rattling is still there.
View 2 RepliesMy 2004 F-150 5.4 has a rattling noise coming from the passenger side of the engine when at operating temperature. The cam phasers and all related parts have been replaced. The reason I was prompted to change the phasers, chains, guides and tensioners was due to the engine stopping on me as I returned home from an errand. The engine had already shown signs of needing the phasers replaced.
The engine runs very smooth while warming up. Vehicle lacks power and has a rough idle after warm. Took the truck to a local mechanic, in the process of making a diagnosis, he performed a compression test. Cylinder 3 psi was much lower than the other 7 cylinders, the mechanic recommended replacing the engine (possible bent valve).
I have a Haynes manual, have searched youtube and checked this and similar forums, I have yet to find instructions on the removal of the head from the block.
(2004 Ford F-150 5.4 3v)....
Our '02 Toyota Camry with 92,000 miles has been idling rough for awhile. I tried cleaning the throttle body which actually seemed like it made it worse for awhile. I do need to replace the valve cover gasket and I don't think the spark plugs have ever been replaced. Is that a good place to start?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2006 Camry LE 4 cyl. that developed a light, random (metal sounding) rattling noise under the hood, near engine on passenger side. It's present/noticable at idle and slow speed.
Car runs great otherwise and great gas mileage, pushing around 100k on odometer. Out of town with car otherwise would have looked at. Could something just be loose? Something in air filter? GF drove it down to FL and was fine before she left.
Car: Toyota Camry 2002 .. Mileage: 150K
Symptom:Check Engine light went on a few days ago.
Checked codes and got these (3):
1) P0420
2) P1310 and
3) P0420 P ("Pending" ?)
I also checked I/M Readiness and got these suspicious-looking values:CAT: NOT RDYEVAP: NOT RDYO2S: NOT RDYH02S: NOT RDY
NOTE all the other I/M values were N/A
Researching the Codes, it sounded like Ignition, and possibly the O2 sensor on the Catalytic Convertor. I had just had some engine work done by the dealer -- actually, replaced spark plugs -- so I figured to go back and bitch him out for screwing up my car.
A few days later, before I could engage my Rage, I went back and re-scanned. First I noticed the CEL was now OFF. Scanning, I now I get "NO CODES", and all the I/M values are now N/A; No more "NOT RDY".
What do you all make of this? Should I be concerned now that the CEL is Off, and I get No Codes with a scan?Or maybe I should take it to AutoZone for their free CEL diagnosis -- would their machine be more thorough than mine (Autel MaxioScan 300)??
So I've had ongoing issues with this car that no mechanic seems to be able to diagnose. It jerks when I accelerate and decelerate pretty badly. It sometimes lets out a big cloud of smoke right when I start it. Now, it has developed some pretty violent shaking when I first start it up. It will only do this if the engine is completely cold and car has been sitting overnight. I feel like all these symptoms are related somehow. I have changed all the spark plugs and cleaned the throttle body. I've also had all the motor mounts replaced. I really wish the engine light would come on but it will not and never has.
It's really annoying that it only happens on startup so when I take it to the mechanic, well, they can't replicate it. What to try?
2002 Toyota Camry LE V6 136k miles Automatic
I have a 2002 4 cylinder Camry, and I've been having trouble with the EVAP test completing. I've been running the EVAP test to the letter, with no success, so I figure the problem might be dependent on something else not completing.
I used to get the occasional check engine light for loose gas cap. So a few days ago I intentionally left the gas cap VERY loose (it's essentially just sitting in the filler nozzle). But I'm not getting the check engine light. I think that the gas tank pressure test may not be running, and that may be why I can't get the EVAP test to complete successfully.
Conditions: The gas level is about 1/2 full, and the ambient temperature has been around 20-35 degrees F.
I'm having a hard time searching. Most search results deal with how to resolve the loose gas cap problem. The check engine light is not burned out... it comes on briefly when I start the car!
My 2002 Toyota Camry XLE V6 (115k miles) stalls once every 4 months (happened thrice in the last year) or so when I'm braking & bringing the care to a complete stop.
The check-engine light comes on just before the car completely stops. The steering wheel feels locked. Putting it back in parking, turning off & turning it back on doesn't work. The car doesn't start. After 10-15 minutes, If I put the key in, turn it on & try to turn the steering wheel while turning it on, it turns back up & runs without any issues for the next few months.
I've taken the car to 3 different mechanics (including a Toyota dealership mechanic) & they tell me that the car is in great condition (I've done a lot of preventive maintenance on the car). They can't find any error codes & they checked everything but can't find any issues
While driving with cruise control set at 80 mph in my 2002 Toyota Camry, the engine suddenly revved up to 4200 rpm while going up a hill on the freeway. I was wondering if this sudden high rpm could do damage to the engine? The car has 163,000 miles on it.
View 8 Replies