2002 Toyota Camry
2.4 V4
My car has developed a rough idle when stopped and when accelerating. When I got the CEL, I had the codes read at Advance Auto.
The codes are P0301, P0302, P0303, P1349.
This is my brother's 02 SE. 140k miles. 4cyl. He claims that the car is beginning to idle rough when he is stopped at a stop light and the AC is on. If i replace the spark plugs should that do it? I'm pretty sure it doesn't have spark plug wires cus that's what my dealer parts dept said. Motor mounts were replaced around 70k if that matters. The vibration is directly related to the AC being on.
I am also going to replace the serp. belt because there's a belt squeak when the motor is cold.
2002 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0L 140k miles
Symptoms:
- Intermittent rough idle when hot, slight shutter, surges between 700-800rmp
- Intermittent hesitation when accelerating, cylinder 2 misfire when hot and under load
- Misfires in all gears under load, mostly when under 2000rpm
- Code P0302 when scanned, no other codes
- Symptoms appeared suddenly, not gradually over time
What's been changed:
- Replaced spark plugs, little or no improvement. Old plugs looked worn, but generally in good shape with no significant deposits.
- Cleared code and swapped injectors between cylinders 1 and 2, after test drive P0302 code came back, so it seems that the injectors are good. If the injector were bad I would have expected the misfire to change from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1.
Inspection and Testing:
- Ignition System Testing
- Spark plug wires and primary coil are within specification.
- Secondary coil resistance is high on both packs. Could this be causing a problem with just cylinder 2? Is it worth replacing?
Spark Plug Wires: Specification: 5.6 Kohm/meter +- 20%Cylinder 1: 2.49 Kohm (Longest)Cylinder 2: 2.03 KohmCylinder 3: 1.64 KohmCylinder 4:1.36 Kohm (Shortest)
Primary Coil: Specification : 0.58ohms +- 10%Actual: .6 and .6
Secondary Coil: Specification: 12.2 Kohms +- 15%
Actual (Cold): 16.03K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 15.94K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Actual (Hot): 18.54K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 18.44K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Air/Fuel System Testing:Fuel system seems to check out. I do not believe the problem is fuel related. There are no obvious cracks or leaks on the intake manifold. A good spray of Carb cleaner all around the manifold causes no change in idle. I might try propane later. No obvious vacuum leaks.
Fuel Injector: Specification: 13.1-14.5 ohms
Actual: Cyl 1: 14.9, Cyl 2: 15.3, Cyl 3: 15.3, Cyl 4: 15.7
Compression Testing:Compression is not great, but within specification. Could the slightly lower compression in Cylinders 2 and 3 indicate a head gasket leak between those cylinders? Could this cause a misfire in Cylinder 2?
Dry Compression: Specification: 145-218psi, <15psi between cylinders
Actual: Cyl 1: 165, Cyl 2: 155, Cyl 3: 155, Cyl 4: 160
Oil/Coolant/Tailpipe:
- Oil looks normal, not brown or milky
- Coolant looks normal and is full, no signs of leaking (coolant has not been changed in a very long time, could a coolant flush work?)
- Exhaust looks and smells normal from tailpipe.
Sticking valve? How would I check this? Bad sensor somewhere? Doesn't a bad sensor usually throw a code?
It's a 2002 Toyota Camry, v6. We just got brand new tires on it. The car shakes really bad between 20 - 60 mph as long as the accelerator is applied. After 60 mph the shaking mellows out and it seems normal while the accelerator is applied. Between 20 and 60 mph while the car is shaking, if I remove my foot from the accelerator the shaking stops and car is normal. To sum up, the shaking only seems to be there while the accelerator is applied. Is there a part I can replace that is relatively simple to do...If so, what part is it?. I'm not too be with cars. I've done some pretty big jobs following repair manuals.
View 10 RepliesI have an 2008 camry le i4 and every time I'm stopped at a red, the idle is so rough. would the dealer know anything about it to fix it? My car's about 2 months old and has 4000 miles on it
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 f150 with the 5.4. Its got a rough idle and a bit hesitant on acceleration. Im wanting to replace the coils and plugs but what brand of coils should I use?
View 3 RepliesI've been having some problem with my 2002 Camry lately. It started when I was exiting off highway waiting at a stop light when my car just suddenly stop, while the car was still in drive. The battery light, engine light, and oil light came even though the music was still playing. So I put the car to park, turn the key to completely turn off the car and restart the car.
At first it sound like the car was going to start but as I turn the key and keep holding it for the car to start all the way, it just die again. I try again but this time I step on the gas pedal at the same time I turn the key and after two or three press on the gas pedal, the car work and all the light was off. Everything was fine. This would happen every other day and I would do the same thing to it but don't know why this is happening.
So my 2002 Camry XLE V6 with ~132,000 miles has a little bit of a rough idle. It sounds like it's "breathing". It'll be rough for a second, smooth for a second, rough, smooth. It's not super rough where my steering wheel is really vibrating, but definitely noticeable. The RPM hovers around 500-600 and doesn't really fluctuate. On Sunday, the following was done with a friend:
- All 6 spark plugs with DENSO SK20R11
- OEM PCV valve, grommet, and hose
- OEM Air Filter
- OEM Cabin Filter
- OEM plenum gasket
We didn't do the head gasket and manifold gasket to save time and there was absolutely no oil on the coils or plugs. The car was very well maintained by the previous owner and by me since I got it at ~102,000 miles.
The car seems to surge sometimes. I'm not sure if that is the right word. Say if I turn left up a hill and hit the gas, the engine RPM will kind of surge up and then it'll shift. It's audibly noticeable. It's not smooth, but maybe it's just because it's a hill, I'm not sure
The idle seems about the same since before we did the plugs, which I thought doing the plugs would work. It almost seems like it might be worse and the MPG might be worse, but that may just be in my head.
Could it be the front motor mount? Maybe we should have cleaned the throttle body while we had it open.
My 2001 toyota camry is great but has an intermittent, annoying problem no one can diagnose or correct. If I drive for a while at top highway speed (say 65mph) and then have to come to a stop (to pay toll or stop light) I get a very rough idle and then the car stalls. Have had new plugs, wires, coil, radiator already done to solve problem. Check engine light never comes on. Can also drive lengthy trip and it doesn't happen.
View 18 RepliesI have a 2008 Toyota Camry SE with the 2.4 engine and auto trans. If I'm stopped and in drive the engine feels as if it's going to stall, the entire car "shutters". The tach reads between 700 & 800 but if I place the gear selector into either neutral or park it becomes "glass" smooth, I even have to look at the tach to see if the engine is still running! In neutral or park the tach still reads 700-800 rpm and the A/C is always switched off.
I've had it to 2 different Toyota dealers and yesterday to my regular mechanic. 1st dealer said to disconnect the battery and bring everything back to default positions...no difference, battery was off for 35 minutes. 2nd dealer said to have the throttle body cleaned, which I did...no difference. A bit of background with the vehicle, I've had it since new, I drive 170 hiway miles per day, I use Shell branded fuel, oilchanges always at 5,000 miles, dealer serviced since new.
So yesterday my mechanic checked everything, engine mounts (OK), any error codes (none) cylinder compression (all within spec) spark plugs (OK except for 1 so I asked him to change them all), he installed 4 NGK iridium plugs and guess what...it still shutters & vibrates!!
Our '02 Toyota Camry with 92,000 miles has been idling rough for awhile. I tried cleaning the throttle body which actually seemed like it made it worse for awhile. I do need to replace the valve cover gasket and I don't think the spark plugs have ever been replaced. Is that a good place to start?
View 6 RepliesI changed all of the brakes on her car yesterday, test drove it, everything was great. Put close to 100 miles on it w/ no issues. Therefore, I don't think it's anything I did.on her way to work, the CEL came on. The car has a rough-ish idle, and jerks slightly in low RPM. I went to Pep Boys and got it read. it threw 8 codes:
P0171
P1130
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
P0442
From what i've read, the p0171 is the system is running too lean and p0442 is a leak somewhere. The 300s are cyl misfires.I don't want to go replacing every conceivable part. What these codes mean in conjunction?
My wife has a 2002 Camry V6 SE with about 75k miles. Over the past 6 months the car has developed a problem. Every so often, say once every 2-3 weeks the car will start fine, but after driving for about 5-10 minutes, will start running rough and stall if I stop for a light. It will start again, (with a little effort) and will stall again at the next stop and so on. I can pull off the road, wait 10 minutes and the car will then run like a Swiss watch until the next episode.
I have taken the car to a respected mechanic and he sees nothing obvious wrong and there is no record in the car's computer of any problem. The last time this happened the car had been on the road for about 20 minutes before the stalling problem occurred. I kept the car going at idle by putting in neutral and increasing the throttle.
After we arrived home, the car cut out when we made it into the garage but a rotten egg-like smell was in the air in the garage. After about an hour, the car stated immediately and ran like a top. That was about a week ago and no problems since. I have read in the threads about EGRs Throttle bodies etc.
I have a 2002 Camry SE (V6) with approx. 180K miles. The Engine mounts were shot so I decided to change them. I am a reasonably qualified mechanic (FAA Aircraft Mechanic) and perform most my work on my cars so didn't think this would be a big deal.
My procedure was to jack up front & put frame on jack stands then removed both wheels. Then with hydraulic jack and blocks under oil pan I started by removing all or the three lower engine mount hold down nuts (3 on bottom, 1 on top of each. NOTE: I changed the dogbone first which took 5 minutes.
I then jacked up engine about two inches or so and pulled out each old mount, then lowered engine back down making sure everything lined up as best I could. Then finished by tightening all of the nuts. Done. ....or so I thought.
When I went to start, the engine cranked but with a an unusual vibration and generally rough idle, more noisey than usual. When I drive it shift fine and everything works, just unusual vibration and noisey inside car.
I also used my BOSCH code checker and got ZERO CODES.
What is even more unusual is the engine when you are outside the car listening sounds fine. Just sitting inside do I sense the unusual vibration and noisy idle.
I checked for loose vacuum hoses, anything obviously pulled loose, etc and found nothing.
Again the car started and idled fine before the engine mount change now starts kind of rough and is noisy [inside car] but quiet outside.
nothing really changed except the moving of the engine block up and down to get the old mounts out.
Our 2002 Camry is in very good condition with ~75k miles. The other day we went to start the car up and it wouldn't turn over. The car would turn a couple of times and then start clicking. We jumped the car and I hopped in to take it to our local mechanic. I instantly noticed during the entire trip to the mechanic that the idle was very slow and chugging. Like it wanted to die anytime I was stopped.
I got to the mechanic and pulled in the lot. The car died. However, I was able to start it up again with no issues. A day later I get a call from the mechanic telling me that they had no issues starting the car whatsoever. They said the battery was a little weak so they replaced it (it was the original battery). I was also told that I might consider changing the spark plugs in the near future. Otherwise they said the car was running great.
After getting the car home I am once again noticing the low/chugging idle. It doesn't seem anywhere near as bad as before, but it is there sometimes.
After a long trip from Houston to Dallas, my vehicle started to ride rough and eventually die on idle. It seems to idle fine, but then die after the first minute. I am getting code P306 and others all dealing with random misfires and misfires on ALL cylinders. The troubleshooting steps I have taken so far to no avail are:
(1) Replaced spark plugs with pre-gapped iridium
(2) Checked ignition coils
(2) Checked all vacuum hoses and air intake leaks
(3) Changed air filter(not a big deal)
(4) Removed and cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner thoroughly
(5) Checked the intake manifold for leaks and did not find any.
(6) Computer PCM checked for updates and issues at dealer
The dealer said it needed new fuel injectors, which seemed kind of fishy due to the following symptom:
The car runs GREAT at highway speeds, but it is unable to maintain an idle for an extended period of time and dies due to misfires. I hear a chugging in the engine sometimes.
Due to these symptoms, I self diagnosed this as a fuel regulator?
Took this car for scheduled maintenance, tuneup on 12/19. AFTER the tuneup, it started shaking when in idle or going slowly. Took it back 1/5, they confirmed it was misfiring, checked a computer code, replaced one of the coils. The misfiring went away but returned, worse than ever, last week (early Feb).
I read somewhere that replacing coils for misfiring can be just treating the symptom, not the cause. What should I do now?
I took my car to the dealer two days ago. The idle was rough, it stall twice and I had a CEL.. They change two high pressure fuel sensor and now the car run fine.
But now I hear a disturbing whistle sound when accelerating. The sound is audible from inside the car but louder when the window are down. This is my third turbo car and this sound as no comparison to the sweet whistle of my 1.8T for example.
I opened the hood to check if something was loose, in fact the main clamp from the inlet pipe to the engine cover was loose so I remove the engine cover assembly to check if the tech didn't forgot something else. Everything looked fine, I put everything back together and I hearing this annoying whistle again...
Noticed this to be a problem with our older 2011 Accent, now with the 2012 Accent.
The car has a rough idle usually in mornings, it seems like it is going to stall at stops, it also has a tough time accelerating.
The computer scan does not show there is anything wrong until the problem becomes worse.
This is what I have discovered through the 2011 Accent. Car will stall at stops. Very inconvenient in rush hour traffic. Until they replace the Crankshaft Point Censor, the problem would not go away.
I would insist on looking at this rather than replacing sparkplugs or having any other service performed if one is experiencing these same symptoms. The good thing is it is under warranty.
1990 Mazda Protege with a 1.8L DOHC, manual 5-spd transmission, ~173K miles on it. On my way home the other day, the car ABRUPTLY started to run very rough - with what I would call repetitive and incessant stuttering when accelerating (though I am by no means technical with respect to cars). I shut the car down, hoped the problem would go away, but when I started it up later that day, the problem was still there - the car BOTH idles rough and doesn't accelerate very smoothy. When I come to a stop, the car feels as if it's going to stall but stays running. This afternoon, I took it out on the road for ~3 mile drive (up to ~ 50 mph) and the problem is the same - but I did also notice, when driving, that the car gave off a smell reminiscent of firecrackers - perhaps a sulfur-ish smell. I googled the issues I was having and I got a whole array of problems - ranging from simply bad spark plug wires (which have been replaced in the past 1.5 years) to a stuck EGR valve .
Here's some additional info on my car: -Was just in the shop 2wks ago for overheating - found the thermostat to be bad - they replaced it and I no longer have the overheating issue. While there, they also replaced the belts for the alternator and water pump (Which had been squealing for quite some time) -Spark plug wires and distributor cap were both replaced in the last 1.5 years -Last oil change was > 6 months (but less than 3000 miles) ago - all the fluid levels seem to be fine -Though I think it is unrelated, the car is also making a high pitched squeaking noise emanating from the R front of the car while driving - I suspect this is the suspension-related as the shop informed me that I have one front stablizer link broken while the other is loose (and when I push down on the R-front side of car while it is not running it yields a similar squeaking noise.
Happened last night two blocks away from home. The idle seemed a little rough at start-up but didn't think much of it because the coolant temp was only 132 degrees. Pulled out of the driveway up to the stop at the corner. Totally bogged upon accelerating, went a block, then came the sound of a hubcap rolling down the street along with a check battery light, no power steering, and REALLY sucky brakes.
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