Camry :: 2002 Toyota LE Will Periodically Refuse To Go Into Overdrive
May 3, 2016
My 2002 Toyota Camry 3.0L EFI DOHC 6cyl Camry LE will periodically refuse to go into overdrive. When I pull the code it shows P0330 code. (knock sensor bank 2 failed knock sensor/fault in knock sensor circuit/failed PCM) It seems that if I clear the code the problem goes away and the car shifts smoothly for about 30 miles and the then go right back into the problem. (and the code shows back up.) This makes no sense to me and I don't see how the 2 might be related? Is this just a coincidence or am I missing something? The Over drive switch indicator light goes on and off when I push it on and off but does not work with the problem when it is occurring. I just did a transmission service on it last week end and had done one 35000 miles ago. The car has 220,000 miles on it.
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My 2002 Toyota Camry 3.0L EFI DOHC 6cyl Camry LE will periodically refuse to go into overdrive. When I pull the code it shows P0330 code. (knock sensor bank 2 failed knock sensor/fault in knock sensor circuit/failed PCM) It seems that if I clear the code the problem goes away and the car shifts smoothly for about 30 miles and the then go right back into the problem. (and the code shows back up.)
This makes no sense to me and I don't see how the 2 might be related? Is this just a coincidence or am I missing something? The Over drive switch indicator light goes on and off when I push it on and off but does not work with the problem when it is occurring. I just did a transmission service on it last week end and had done one 35000 miles ago. The car has 220,000 miles on it.
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My wifes car is an 2002 Camry 4Cyl. It has a periodic flashing A/C light and decrease or no performance when it does so. I called the dealer and asked for a magnetic clutch relay for A/C. Went to pick up the part and they had 90080-87026 waiting. My research shows that 90987-02022 (in the car now) was superseded by 90987-02028.
What is 90080-87026 for? Did they give me the wrong part?
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I have a 2009 camry. My overdrive shift does not engage. Sometime when I push, the display shows and sometimes does not. I feel its a contact problem but if its the solenoids or some relays somewhere.the car is consuming excessively on gas.
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I have a 1981 Toyota pickup. when i start her. she starts fine, but sometimes she will idle fine, and then suddenly refuse to. it seems to be random. i can keep her running if i keep my foot on the gas just a little, to keep her rpm's up. but have to put her into N and keep my right foot on the gas and my left on the brake to stop her when she refuses to idle. when she does this on the freeway, it just sputters and runs rough, but as long as i have the gas on, she keeps going.
I don't know what it is that regulates the idle to keep her going when my foot isn't on the gas. also her serpentine belt is slipping. the one attached to the alternator, i can see her charge voltage dropping when she squeals her belt. that i know how to fix, but i'm wondering if it's that, that is the issue? i was told that, but i don't think her serpentine belt has anything to do with her idling. i was told how to raise her idle on the throttle cable and the Idle screw, but is there something else that regulates her idling?
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I have been having problems on and off with my central locking for a while now with my 05' Toyota Camry Altise. 95% of the time it works perfectly, however occasionally the central locking will refuse to lock the doors, chirping at me twice as if a door is open. I know that all of the door switches are working fine so this isn't the cause of the problem.
I believe it may have something to do with the fact that I had to replace my driver side door a while ago, and that now the actuator may not be working properly or misaligned and jamming. What should I be looking for to make sure this doesn't occur? I thought it all went back in perfectly. Interestingly I can get around the problem by turning the ignition on and off and trying again.
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The CEL on my 3.0l 93 4runner intermittently turns itself off and on. I have had it to a shop and got error code 25 and error code 26. (If the numbers are wrong the codes meant lean/rich mix. The first time this happened the shop replaced the O2 sensor. When the light came back on the shop said the problem was the "mass air flow (something)". The shop ordered a new MAF and after testing the new one and the old one decided the MAF was not the problem. At this point I'm just ignoring the light and driving the vehicle. The vehicle does seem to run just fine.
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My 2011 camry le- I purchased the vehicle new in july and since than my audio volume drops low periodically. The ASL feature is turned off and they replaced my factory headunit once already, i brought it back to the dealer the other day and they say they can not duplicate the problem...To me and other passengers that hear it it sounds like speakers are fadign out or reception drops.
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I have a 2002 Mazda Protege' which recently started losing power periodically. At the same time, the check engine light would blink and then stay solid. The dealer diagnosed a random engine misfire and replaced the spark plugs, wires, and coil packs. It cost $500.00. After 3000 miles, the problem has returned worse than before. This weekend it lost and regained power repeatedly in short spans of time, and lurched back and forth as it happened. The check engine light returned as well.
My first question: what do you think this is? My neighbor suspects a clogged fuel filter or fuel regulator.My second question: what, if anything, does the dealer owe me financially?
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Today i went to the store and my toyota camry 2002 with 4 cylinder turn on fine. i came back home and car also turned on. after 3 hours, i decided to take a short trip but this time the car was not turning on. there is no cracking, radio and headlight dont turn on. i thought it could be the battery, i used a multimeter and see that i get a 12.6 volt but still no headlight or radio.
The battery is 3 1/2 years old but the fact i get a 12.6 v make me believe is not the battery. I get a little bit of light in the dashboard and when i try to turn on the car it looks like the dashboard light get dim as well as the indicator in the dashboard such as battery indicator, abs, oil etc.
The starter was changed 2 years ago. The car turn on normally before, no sign of long cranking or anything like that. So I think it is not starter either but not sure. when the starter went bad 2 years ago, there was no cracking but the car made a click sound when try to crank. Now there is no click sound and this is why i think it is not the starter.
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It's a 2002 Toyota Camry, v6. We just got brand new tires on it. The car shakes really bad between 20 - 60 mph as long as the accelerator is applied. After 60 mph the shaking mellows out and it seems normal while the accelerator is applied. Between 20 and 60 mph while the car is shaking, if I remove my foot from the accelerator the shaking stops and car is normal. To sum up, the shaking only seems to be there while the accelerator is applied. Is there a part I can replace that is relatively simple to do...If so, what part is it?. I'm not too be with cars. I've done some pretty big jobs following repair manuals.
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I just got a 2002 Toyota Camry. She runs fine, but the one thing that bugs me is that when I am stopped and my A/C is on, she shakes. I needed to do to make it stop shaking or if this is normal?
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I have a 2002 camry 4 cyl. I bought at 65,000 miles. I drove it for 2 years and had a clanging sound that would come and go. My timing chain needed replaced because the sludge in the bottom of the pan clogged up the tube taking the oil to the chain. I religiously changed the oil every 3,000 miles, but I still get sludge. Is this an engine that was recalled by Toyota?
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder with an exaust leak. On first morning start after the rpm drop to 500 the engine will shake periodically until I drive about half a mile then all is fine. I cleaned the trottle body at the area of the flap with throttle body cleaner and a tooth brush, and gave the car a tuneup. The problem went away for about 4 days but is back. What can I do to fix this.
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I just got some work done on my Camry (CEL P0440 and P0446). The lights have been taken care of after the Charcoal Canister and hoses above the gas tank were replaced. Since then, I've noticed that I'm getting a gas smell in the cabin when the AC is turned on and when I turn the AC off and roll the windows down. No CEL is on, and I was able to pass emissions.
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Once day my car began idling poorly and would not accelerate beyond 3000 rpm. The check engine light began blinking and I stopped driving it.
My check engine light remained on and the obd read Cylinder 2 misfire (p0302) and random cylinder misfire (p0300). I tested the ignition coils and found that the cylinder 2 ignition coil was dead so I replaced it. The codes no longer showed but the car still would not accelerate and was firing irregularly. I checked for vacuum leaks but found all hoses connected and whole.
I tried removing pcv hose and blocked the valve with my thumb and the car instantly corrected the rough idle. I then went around the block and the car drove and fired properly. I'm unsure if I am losing vacuum pressure in the intake manifold or if the issue is elsewhere?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Camry LE. It's alarm is super sensitive. When the car is parked and locked, if a large truck (semi's, diesels, etc.) or motorcycles go by my car honks 4 times rapidly in a row. It is obnoxious at night when trying to sleep as you can imagine.
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Our '02 Toyota Camry with 92,000 miles has been idling rough for awhile. I tried cleaning the throttle body which actually seemed like it made it worse for awhile. I do need to replace the valve cover gasket and I don't think the spark plugs have ever been replaced. Is that a good place to start?
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Background: My 02 camry (155k) ran great but I noticed grease/oil on the front of the engine so I had a local mechanic take a look. He replaced the front valve cover gasket, timing belt, and while he was in there, the water pump. He made me take it to the dealer to reset/recalibrate the stability control sensor because after disconnecting the battery to perform the work my "VSC", "trac off" and check engine lights were on. I got it back along with a list of work they thought I needed (replace the rear valve cover gasket, dog bone engine mount, and a bunch of bs I don't need).
Problem: Quickly my check engine light is back on. I fill up gas and I can't get it to turn over. The owner of the shop gets it to turn over by gassing it a bunch while turning the key. My mechanic later tells me the check engine light is due to a bum gas cap. He replaces that and the dog bone mount. Next day check engine is back on AND the next time I get gas the same thing happens - it won't turn over until I gas it, then it turns over and stalls a few times until I really gas it and it turns over and takes. Every other time I try to start the car it turns over first try. Both times I filled up I wasn't close to running out of gas or anything. I don't think the gas cap or the fuel injectors went bad coincidentally the same day the dude had his hands in the engine.
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I have 02 camry xle with digital a/c , the a/c only works on max cold, if i set the temp to 65 ot 70 ot any number it will become heat ,
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I have a question regarding a leak i have in the manifold of my toyota camry 2002 2.4 cylinder. the engine check light is coming up and after a check on the mechanic there is a leak in the manifold where the catalytic converter is attached. when you put your hands near the pipe, you can feel air coming out. See the image attached.
The link is in the part mark as X. The catalytic converter is the one which is circled. [URL] ....
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