I've replaced the started the starter several times now and the car will start once then just click. I found that if I disconnect and reconnect the battery cable it'll start one time and then just click. So something seems to be getting reset when the battery is disconnected.
View 4 RepliesAbout 2 weeks ago, my jetta decided it didn't want to start. Was getting symptoms of a bad ignition switch prior to this. Could get it to start one by jiggling the key. Replaced the ignition switch and now could hear the starter relay click but still no start. Yesterday, installed a reman starter and got it to start once. Could here the solenoid click when trying to start. Was reading on here or somewhere that it my be my power control relay, so took the top off to look at it and it was fine. Battery was down about 100 amps so it was replaced and still no start. Going to go see if my vag com will talk to to the ecu. Thinking about pulling the starter out and having it tested.
MK2 are so much easier.
Last week the coil went out. The housing had several cracks, and the heavy oil had filled the distributor cap. So the coil, rotor, and distributor cap were replaced. About 4 days later, all my engine would do was make a grating sound when I turned the key. My boyfriend said that it sounded like my starter had gone. It wouldn't start with hitting it or anything. So, he and I, while trying to save some money because we're both on disability, replaced the starter. Now, when I turn the key, nothing happens! We're pretty sure the battery is dead. We have it on a trickle charge right now. But a funny thing happened, all of a sudden the open door alarm started going off! The door had been open for several minutes when it started. So we think that it may be a short. The starter relay, when you look at it, has a spot of corrosion on the indicator. Tomorrow we're going to try cleaning them.
1993 Toyota Camry DX with 170,000 miles ....
I bought a used 2008 Toyota Camry per-certified from a local Toyota dealer about 2 years ago. About a year and a half ago I got in the car to go to work one morning and it would not start. You turn the key and all the lights come on but nothing else happened. Took the battery to Auto Zone and they said the battery was OK so I had it towed to the dealership. Dealer called when he got it and said it cranked right up for them and it has not been an issue since.
Two days ago I get in the car to leave work and the same thing happens. You might hear the starter click when you turn the key but nothing else happened. The car was getting power from the battery but that was about it. I tried to jump the car off but still the same thing. I had the car towed to a local Goodyear shop and after looking at it the said it was a problem with the alternator, that needed to be replaced, which also killed a cell in the battery that needed to be replaced also. They said since they are replacing the alternator they might as well replace the belt also.
The car has been sitting since last March (11 months). I have 3/4 tank of gas. The starter turns and the car almost starts. I suspect old gas is the problem because it sounds as if it wants to start and the gas is old. Could it be the injectors are clogged? If so, is there a way I can clean these myself? Or maybe another diagnosis?
View 2 RepliesMy camry suddenly won't start. when i turn the key it makes this single click but won't start. Battery seems to be good. bad starter?
View 10 Replies02 2.4 IL4 2AZ-FE Camry will not start, starter clicks once and car is dead, even no radio.
Took battery to automotive store and it tested bad. I still asked them to charge it, let it set overnight and test it again when I pick it up. It tested 100%.
Put battery into car, started car and drove it to automotive store to test charging circuit and battery with car running. Checked 100% good.
Car would not start, again, starter clicks once and car is dead, even no radio. Took battery to automotive store and it tested bad. Replaced battery. Car started twice and again, starter clicks once and car is dead, even no radio.
I drove my '02 Camry last night to a restaurant and when I came out it would not start. I have never had any problems with my Camry. I have a new strong battery.
All the lights, bells, radio, a/c, door locks, dash lights came on and work fine. There was no clicking sound of the starter. It would not turn over at all. NO SOUND AT ALL. I did move the shifter handle several times thinking it may have been the kill switch on the shifter.
Car details: 2002 Toyota Camry V6 3L LXE - 151k miles.
My car took a little longer than normal to start up one morning, but I attributed it to the especially cold weather. I didn't have any problems the following two or three mornings, but my car suddenly died in traffic as I came to a stop, as it had many times before. What made this incidence different in particular was that I didn't feel my car shake or shudder before it shut down. I simply looked down and the Check Engine, oil, and battery lights had all come on, and my power steering was gone.
I attempted, as usual, to restart my car, but the starter only sat and tried to turn over and nothing more. Once I gave it a little gas, it caught, but as soon as I let the engine idle, the RPM dropped to 0 and the engine died. I sat and kept my foot on the gas for a minute or so after I got the car started in hopes that the car would stay on - when I let up, it idled roughly close at a very low RPM for several seconds, shuddered, and then died.
I was unable to get out and under the hood to try the typical trick of unplugging the MAFS and plugging it back in again, so I'm not sure if this would have worked as it has before despite having been replaced. Actually, before I was able to do this again, wouldn't you know it? My starter died. My car started giving a grinding, choking noise when I tried to start it up again, so I simply had it towed to the mechanic.
The mechanic declared the starter dead, which is unusual given I just had it replaced several months ago (could just be a lemon, I guess), so I had it replaced and they said the car started and ran great afterwards. They could not replicate the problem (like previous times), the computer gave no codes.
I noticed after the starter choked, my odometer lost power and my clock reset.
Is it possible that it's some problem with the battery?
Camry 2002 LE (4 cyl Auto), 140K mi
This morning, for the first time I can recall, the car would not start right away. Had been sitting in the garage for 2+ days. Starter would crank just fine, but engine would not fire. No lites were left on overnite. Finally (after about 6+ attempts), engine started -- runs fine now.
Took it to TOY dealer. Their diagnosis: weak battery, alternator low output.Happy, had recently (6 mos) replaced battery after 4 years of use, so got a new battery N/C.TOY ran a charging system check and it shows "Alternator Condition: OK" (midway between shitty and great I recall).
Funny, but my first thought when it would not start was the fuel system (fuel pump) or dirty ignitors. I did ask my regular mechanic for an opinion, and he thinks it might indeed be the fuel pump -- perhaps a clogged filter.
Starts up fine but the car does not move. Car also has loud whine on cold starts coming out of driver side fender. It will also whine above 2000 rpm even after sitting out in the sun but goes away after driving. The car is at my parent's place and will be able to look at it later today..
View 4 RepliesSo the wife's 02 Camry (I4/ auto) would not start for her & so I started the usual trouble shooting, fuel, spark, combustion, etc. Scan tool found 5 codes p0300 thru p0304, found the plugs to be soaked and not looking so hot in general (replaced plugs, it was time/105k). Now I can start the car but only if I hold throttle open, so when it starts if I let off it stalls, unless I hold it at 2500 rpms for 2 to 3 minutes, the car then will hold idle. If I try to mat the pedal to the flr it falls on it's face (nearly stalls, in gear or park). If I ease into the pedal the car runs without any issues, can stroll down the highway 70/80 mph with cruies or pedal. Currently no codes but will not take fast acceleration. If the car sits for any amount of time I have to hold throttle open to start it/ large cloud of smoke, smells liek raw fuel. Cleaned MAF, throttle body, etc...
View 5 Replies2002 Camry with check engine light steady on and car shutting off when coming to a stop. Diagnostics revealed error codes P0440, P0441, P0446, P0442 indicating evaporation problem. Found broken closed canister valve. Had valve replaced and check engine light went off. Technician says VSC/TRAC lights were on also when he pulled the car in.
They had not been on before. Now the VSC/TRAC lights are coming on and staying on when the car starts moving. The code is c1336, something about yaw rate sensor. Is there something that still needs to be reset or does this mean that the sensor is bad and what and where is this yaw rate sensor?
Removed battery cables and held together to clear ECU ... Re-attached and no crank not even a click ...
View 3 RepliesI tried to jump my phaeton and it would click but not completely turn over and i absolutely cant get it to start. the radio, lights, windows, and things of that nature are still working. So i need to know how to replace the battery i.e. (disconnecting it and can i replace it with a battery from an auto store?) If not, how much should i expect to spend and what else could it possibly be??
View 6 RepliesI'm having this issue with my 2002 camry, but it won't start, so i can take it to a mechanic, and a house call is too expensive.
The car starts at almost 3000 rpm for a few seconds then white smoke starts coming out of the front and back... the front seems to be from the front catalytic converter . Then the car starts stalling and finally shuts off
I have a 2002 Toyota camry that smokes on cold starts. No oil is being consumed because I check frequently. What could be causing this white smoke which lasts about 10-15 seconds?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 Santa Fe with 137K miles on it. Has been best car I ever owned, but have recently experienced a strange issue where it won't start, meaning I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the right and nothing, not even a click on the starter. I have found if I move the shifter around from P to R to D, etc. and then try it again it will start. Is there a safety interlock switch in the shifter that could be going bad and is therefore not satisfied/happy when I try to start the car? Or could the ignition hardware where I insert the key be the issue.
View 1 RepliesHave a 97 Ford explorer. Over 270,000 miles on it. Recently had Crank sensor, Crank case vent tube, plugs wires replaced along with intake manifold gaskets. Also had fuel injectors cleaned out. Now i cant get it to turn over. Went to store, truck started fine, came out and click. Thought it might be the battery even though its also brand new but no, had the starter checked, it is also good. Put test light on all electrical having to do with starter and found all hot wires and good grounds. Finally bypassed the solenoid for starter and still nothing but a click. I also checked NSS to see if that might be it but after putting it in reverse, the reverse lights came on, and even jiggled shifter in park and neutral to see if that might work but still just a click. Not sure where to go from here short of buying all new parts but doesn't make much sense to do that if they all appear to be working properly. Don't have a volt meter to check voltage.
View 5 RepliesI got a 1997 f150 4x4 4.6L had to replace fuel rail after a couple holes were rubbed in it and caused a fire, but now after two weeks of it sitting at the dealer, I wasn't gonna pay for a fuel rail to be put on so i had it towed home and I did it, however now when I go to start it, it just clicks. So I have the battery tested and its bad so it was still warrantied so it now has a new battery and i also replaced the starter solenoid while i was at it. But still just a click when i try to start it. I had the starter out and bench tested it and it went but went slow and looked very old and tired, I am thinking i need a starter now because its a click from the starter, like its trying to go but isn't strong enough.
View 3 Replies1991 Vanagon GL-Ok, first off my gas gauge was inoperable so we traced it down to the sending unit. Disconnected the battery, drained the tank, dropped the tank and replaced the sending unit and all the fuel lines, seals, etc. In the meantime we also replaced the starter while it was up. Gassed her up, tried to start it. Nothing. Lifted it up again, checked the starter unit to see if it was getting a current, no current. Went to the fuse box, tested the fuses, all is good. Went to the battery and tested it, it was producing a current. Thought we might have moved, hit, loosen something when putting the gas tank back in so we lowered the tank to see if there was anything loose, disconnected, etc. Nothing. Reinstalled the tank. Went to the engine compartment and tested the alternator, no juice. Damn. Traced the wiring from the battery to the engine and test the battery cable, no juice in the harness by the gas tank. Went to the front of the van, took out the drivers headlight and tested the lines there. There is a long green object like a capacitor or something with three wired running to it, tested it no juice flowing through it. Tested a connection before the long green object and there is juice there. Is it the long green thing? Do I need to call in the Witches of Warwick to de-demonize it?
View 6 Replies