Camry :: 2002 - Squeaking Noise When Car Hits Particularly Rough Pavement
Jun 23, 2011
Upon noticing some squeaking noise when my car hits particularly rough pavement I asked my mechanic to take a look. He informed me that my front lower control arm bushings have shifted, the right one some, and the left just a hair. The car was involved in an accident some years back and about two years ago I ran it into a curb bad enough to shift my steering wheel about 10-15 degrees out of position.
According to the mechanic, it its not a bad problem currently, drivability is not at all affected, but it could be a potential issue in the future. However, because I just identified the problem, I don't know if it is recent or has been there all along for the last 5 years (just inherited the car from my dad a few months ago). For the moment, its wait and see if it gets any worse.
So I say, OK, whats it take to correct it, just for future reference. This is when I find out that the 02 Camry, for some insane reason, has control arm bushings that are not replaceable without replacing the entire control arm. And if that wasn't bad enough, the control arms cannot be removed without lifting or removing the engine AND transmission!?
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I have a 2002 BMW 525i with 100k miles. Since I bought it at 30,000 miles there has been a braking problem. If I am applying the brakes and hit a bump or rough pavement, the brakes start to "pulse", they make a "rattley, clattering" kind of sound, and it feels as though they will fail to stop the car. Removing my foot from the brake for a breif moment then reapplying the brake past the bump or rough pavement stops this from happening. Most mechanics claim they can't reproduce it, but I can. At about 50K miles I decided to self diagnosis the problem as a bad sensor or "motor" for the antilocking system. I had it replaced which appeared to resolve the issue for a while. But it is now back. What this may be?
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I have a 2012 Tig S. I hear a rattle coming from under dash by steering wheel. It happens over rough pavement. Had it at the dealer, they replaced the sway bar linkage. The noise is still there. Service rep. says its normal. I drove another new Tig and it felt tight. I only have 12000 miles on it. Really like my Tig.
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I have a 2002 GMC Envoy that has developed a shrill whistle. It starts after the car hits about 20 mph, stops when braking or at a standstill, and sometimes doesn't start right away if the car is cold. My mechanic has checked things out and can't find anything. He pinpointed the sound to the front right side, but replaced the wheel bearing and that didn't fix the problem.
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Glove box rattle on the 3rd gen RX. Mine makes a slight noise over very rough pavement. It seems to make noise at the latch, so a felt is probably not going to work.
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I noticed that my sunroof creaks slightly when going over rough pavement when closed. I can duplicate the noise by pushing up on the closed sunroof with my fist. It's not loud at all but with the radio off and at lower speeds I can hear it.
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I hear a bit of a squeaking noise. Very minimal. Coming from back when I'm on rough roads. Is that normal. Sounds like it might be from coilover or somewhere in the back.
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Our 2012 SE has an intermittent rattle somewhere in the rear of the Tiguan when riding on even moderately rough pavement. Ultimately I'll have to crawl around back there while my wife drives up and down a rough road to locate the rattle, I guess, What was the source of the rattle.
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Swapped for Warn standard hubs a few months back when the ESOF's turned out to be trashed.
Since then, I've noticed a rattle coming from the hubs when driving over rough or broken pavement. I've checked the outer caps and they're good and snug, proper amount of grease inside, and the hub itself is completely secure.
Do aftermarket hubs have tis issue? It's not critical, but on cooler evenings with the windows down it sound like a rattle trap unless the roads are in good shape. More of a pet peeve I suppose, but still curious.
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I have an '08 Camry purchased a week ago. When I accelerate rapidly and the rpm hits 3500 to 4000 I hear a metallic grinding noise. It is only while crossing this rpm range. Only on acceleration. I have had some luck replicating the grind and making it last longer by feathering the throttle and holding the rpm in this range. It does not happen at any other range and I can get it to happen in D or 4. Have not tried other gears. My thought is some sort of drive train issue but the dealer mechanic says maybe an engine mount or something else. Sounds too metallic to be a rubber mount to me.
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2000 ML430 230,000 mi. The engine starts and all is fine until I hit a spot of rough pavement or a minor bump and the engine "stumbles," feels like it has cut out or starving for fuel. I have been unable to tell whether it is left front or rear right tire or corner of the car that hits the bump and starts the engine running on limp home.Once it happens and I stop at a light then hit the gas, I can count to 4 before the engine responds, making left turns dangerous. MB factory service since new. The dealer has replaced spark plug wires, spark plugs, crankcase sensor, gas pedal sensor and still the same problem. I think it is a loose wire or ground since it only happens after I go over a bump(even a seam on concrete any jiggle does it).
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I have an RX 450H and noticed that there is a squeaking sound coming from the dashboard. I looked at other posts where people were experiencing similar issues and noticed one post where someone had a GS 450H and fixed this issue by adding felt between the dashboard and the windscreen.
I would like to know whether this method works 100% and whether I can apply this method to the RX 450H. The noise becomes worse when it is cold and especially when the car is being driven over rough road surfaces and speed bumps.
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I just changed the power steering fluid for likely the first time on my 2007 Camry 2.4L with 76k. Put in Maxlife. I noticed when the engine is running that there is a slight... buzzing sound... when the wheel hits the lock in either direction. Everything else is fine and no leaks are present. Im not sure if it has always existed and I only noticed it now because I was listening for irregular sounds, or if it is something new.
Everything else seems fine and the sound only occurs at lock. And it is minimal, but there if you listen for it.
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I started hearing squeaking noise around the Serp Belt Tension-er a week ago. I hear it during idling and louder when A/C is on. I took it to my local mechanic. This guy is very good and he is a certified Lexus mechanic.
He told me that the Serp Belt is the problem. He changed it, but squeaking noise still continued. The mechanic then told me that we need to change the Serp tension-er itself. I changed that too. Still the noise didn't go. He told me to change the Tension-er Pulley. I changed too, but the noise is still there.
I have already spent around $600 and I have the same issue as it was there before. Mechanic at some point said he is not able to figure out what the issue is.
I browsed online and could see some complain that it could be water pump or alternator. I don't want spend any more money on getting a new spare part until I know that is the problem.
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I've taken my Camry in several times (service and warranty issues). One of the issues was a squeaking noise coming from the sunroof area. It was driving me crazy especially with the weather changing it was a lot more noticeable. I took it in and they said they fixed the problem by adding insulation to the roof. Well, the noise was still there. I took it again today and the Master Technician came out and wanted me to show him what I was talking about.
We went for a short ride around the dealer parking lot. He heard the noise and told me to drive to the detailing area. He then proceeded to get a paper towel with some cleaner and wiped the metal opening around the sunroof area and the black seal on the sunroof. He then got another paper towel and put some sort of lubricant and voila the squeaking noise is gone! I keep my car very clean and wipe down the sunroof area every time I wash my car. He said to go ahead and put some type of protectant (Meguiars) so it keeps the rubber moist.
I thought it was something serious with my sunroof turned out to be a very simple applying of protectant to a piece of rubber.
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My question today has to deal with my squeaking car. Only mods I have done to my suspension would be Lowered on Progress springs and added there rear sway bar. After about a year my car started to squeak when going over speed bumps or certain dips BUT ONLY THE REAR. I have tracked the problem down to my rear sway bar. What is the fix for this? Ive read in other forums (mainly civic teggys etc) that the bushing might be worn? What is my recommended next step?
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My Camry 2grfe now has almost 60k miles and it started making a squeaking/dry bearing noise but it goes away after about 2 minutes of running. I was going to replace the serpentine belt when I get a chance, its a tensioner or a pulley bearing? Can the bearings in the tensioner or pulleys be replaced instead?
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My 2002 F250 7.3 randomly dies while driving and seems to only be when I hit a bump no matter the size. I have checked the valve cover harness connector outside of the valve covers and they look fine. I checked the ECM connection took it off and reconnected it.
Changed the CPS censor twice, checked the ICP sensor, checked continuity of all the glow plugs through the valve cover harness. Checked the fuel pump, checked all related fuses, changed the fuel filter, checked glow plug relay, batteries hold good voltage and were recently upgraded to bigger batteries.
Engine runs just a little rough but not enough to be of concern. Air filter is clean and oil level is perfect. What could possible be causing my truck to randomly die when it hits a bump and not start back right away??? This truck is new to me and its the first diesel engine I have ever owned.
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So my 2002 Camry XLE V6 with ~132,000 miles has a little bit of a rough idle. It sounds like it's "breathing". It'll be rough for a second, smooth for a second, rough, smooth. It's not super rough where my steering wheel is really vibrating, but definitely noticeable. The RPM hovers around 500-600 and doesn't really fluctuate. On Sunday, the following was done with a friend:
- All 6 spark plugs with DENSO SK20R11
- OEM PCV valve, grommet, and hose
- OEM Air Filter
- OEM Cabin Filter
- OEM plenum gasket
We didn't do the head gasket and manifold gasket to save time and there was absolutely no oil on the coils or plugs. The car was very well maintained by the previous owner and by me since I got it at ~102,000 miles.
The car seems to surge sometimes. I'm not sure if that is the right word. Say if I turn left up a hill and hit the gas, the engine RPM will kind of surge up and then it'll shift. It's audibly noticeable. It's not smooth, but maybe it's just because it's a hill, I'm not sure
The idle seems about the same since before we did the plugs, which I thought doing the plugs would work. It almost seems like it might be worse and the MPG might be worse, but that may just be in my head.
Could it be the front motor mount? Maybe we should have cleaned the throttle body while we had it open.
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OK car is 2010 Camry LE with about 48000 miles.
there is a LOUD squeaking noise coming from my drivers side wheel when driving. When I press the brakes then the noise goes away. I took the wheel off to duplicate the noise by turning the rotors but I couldn't. maybe I couldn't turn it fast enough though. Its not the brake/rotor shield either.
At first it was a slight squeak but now its getting really loud. embarrassing loud. Could the possible issues be calipers, brake shims, cv, axle?
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I have 144,000 miles on my V6. Just started to notice that the car is surging/hesitating at just about all speeds. It appears to idle fine and if you raise the RPM in neutral I can't detect a problem. If you place the trans in drive, apply the brake and raise the RPM to 1000 to 1500 the engine's RPM varies slightly and regularly, it not steady like all of my other cars. When you are at highway speeds you can feel the car slightly buck, if you take it out of overdrive it is more detectable due to higher RPM. I do not notice the problem when the engine is cold.
I have a hand-held scanner and I see no codes and there is no CEL illuminated. I changed the plugs with OEM plugs at 90,000 miles when I changed the timing belt. Changed the air filter probably 10,000 miles ago. Just cleaned the MAF sensor (after the problem started), no change. Took it to the dealer. They discovered broken motor mounts which I kind of suspected I had, but I didn't feel the symptom were mount related. They said that I was feeling torque converter lock-up. I told them that the range of speeds and gears that the problem presented itself that it was unlikely lock-up.
Alldata suggests that it is a fuel problem and Toyota has some TSB's for drivability. I'm discounting the TSB's because this just started recently. Any hints as to where to try first? EGR, fuel regulator, fuel pulsation damper, injectors, spark plug coil packs, ..... It gets too expensive to just remove and replace the sensors that deal with the fuels system. I have plenty of tools plus a volt-ohm meter and a fuel pressure gauge.
07/21/2009 : While I was at work I added Seafoam to the gas, tank was half full.
On my way home from work I disconnected the EGR Position Sensor connector and the symptoms disappeared and the expected CEL illuminated. When I arrived home I went on Alldata and looked for an EGR system test. I found two, one for the position sensor and one for the EGR temperature sensor.
I had to run out to Sears to pickup a vacuum pump. I performed the tests below up to the point that I needed the pump. I also removed, inspected and reinstalled the EGR Position Sensor before I left for Sears. I did not notice the symptoms on the trip about 14 miles round trip. I'll see if I still have the problem on my way to work tomorrow.
Performed the on-vehicle inspection as listed on Alldata
EGR Position Sensor resistance: 2.6 ohms, in spec
EGR Position Sensor power: 5.0v, in spec
EGR Position Sensor output with no vacuum applied: 1.0v, in spec
EGR Position Sensor output with 5.1 in Hg vacuum applied: 4.0v, in spec
07/22/2009 : Problem seems to have gone away, no bucking or hesitation. Maybe the connector contacts were dirty on the position sensor. Will update if the symptoms return.
09/07/2009 : Noticed that I am getting 2 miles per gallon more than before I found the problem.
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