I own a 2002 Solara V6 with over 300,000mi. The check engine light is on and affecting the tracking control. The dealer cannot find the cause without replacing many parts costing lots of money.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 Toyota Solara V-6. I was driving down the street with no indication of what was about to happen. All of the sudden my check engine light came on and the car lost all power. I had the car towed home and had a mechanic look at it he put his scanner on it and I'm not sure what codes if any came up but he decided it was the ECM so he found a used one with a warranty and ordered it, he put it in and it did the same thing it turns over but wont start. What could it be ?
View 13 RepliesHigh Idle after engine swap. Just finished an engine swap, the motor is out of a 2000 solara. Started the car last night, and the rpms jumped to 4000. The only issue I had with the swap is some how I did not disconnect the two throttle cables, not sure how I missed that, but they did get stretched a little.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Toyota solara. Everything runs fine. No misfires or weir sounds. But the check engine light has been turning on and off. It turns off at random times and usually turns back on after I get gas. I finally got the code scanned. It is P1410. While at autozone I got a new gas cap based on prior postings and filled up the tank to see if that trick would work. To my delight, the cel turned off upon starting the engine. It remained off for thirty minutes before it came back on. So now I am stuck with the code.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 camry and I am coming up on 15000 miles so i know im going to be due for another maintenance. accordingly, the "maintenance required" flasher started going off, so i thought it was all good and i should just take it to the dealership soon. well this morning when i started it up, it started flashing the "maintenance req" but once i backed out and put it in drive, the check engine light popped up as well as the traction control light (car with squiggly tire marks behind it).
View 4 RepliesSince I've owned the car, which i got in December of 2013, the engine light has been on and off. The previous owner, who drove it off the lot in 2004, was a family member who took it to a mechanic multiple times. Multiple mechanics said it was the gas cap. I replaced the gas cap back in February 2014. The engine light still comes on and occasionally goes off.
Here's some information I've gathered driving the car since then
Straight highway mileage tops out at 28 MPG. Only city/town driving yields about 19/20 mpg, so the gas mileage is okay
Last weekend, I drove around on maine roads for the whole weekend, spending about 90% of the driving time doing 50+ on roads. The engine light successfully went off and stayed off for the longest period of time since i've owned the car.
The rust situation on the car is extremely minor, except for some rusted fittings. Frame rust and general surface rust is non existant except on certain pieces that can be replaced (struts, tie rods, ect) However, there is one piece that looks shitty, which is the spacer between the exhaust header out of the engine and the engine block.
The code the car puts out is either a catalytic system failure or catalytic system operating below threshold. There is a new catalytic converter in the last 3 years, so I highly doubt that's at fault (not to mention the engine light manages to stay off for the yearly inspection and it passes emissions no problem).
I recently bought a 2007 toyota Camry le v6 with less than 38,000 miles it currently has 39,300 miles and my check engine light is on along with the VSC and a skid control light (car with squiggle lines behind it) we have a had lots of rain here where I live and I had to drive through a couple deep water puddles. I looked up online and it said The engine light may turn on if the VSC and skid control lights are on. Could this be that the sensors maybe got wet? I don't think anything should be wrong with this car considering it's a toyota with less than 40k miles
View 14 RepliesSo mad today. Check engine light came on, plugged in my scanner, got P0441 EVAP Emission Control system Purge Flow Fault and P0455 EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Large).
8-month old '13 TCH XLE is getting a check engine light already.
I have a 2002 4 cylinder Camry, and I've been having trouble with the EVAP test completing. I've been running the EVAP test to the letter, with no success, so I figure the problem might be dependent on something else not completing.
I used to get the occasional check engine light for loose gas cap. So a few days ago I intentionally left the gas cap VERY loose (it's essentially just sitting in the filler nozzle). But I'm not getting the check engine light. I think that the gas tank pressure test may not be running, and that may be why I can't get the EVAP test to complete successfully.
Conditions: The gas level is about 1/2 full, and the ambient temperature has been around 20-35 degrees F.
I'm having a hard time searching. Most search results deal with how to resolve the loose gas cap problem. The check engine light is not burned out... it comes on briefly when I start the car!
It just so happens that I got my letter from the DMV telling me I needed to get my new tags, and this is an emissions test year for my car. I was buys the last few weeks so I figured this would be a good week to do it. Yesterday.......check engine light comes on. How does that happen???
So now I'm on a time crunch. I went to Advanced Auto this morning and they checked the code. It's P0440, an Evaporative Emissions code. Any thought on what that me be, or any checklist as to what to check first? I'm fairly handy, but know nothing about cars. I'm sure I can figure it out with some instructions.
Summary: Got a check engine code of P0440, Evaporative Emissions. On a time crunch because I need to get an emissions test done. I can probably fix it myself with some direction.
Car: Toyota Camry 2002 .. Mileage: 150K
Symptom:Check Engine light went on a few days ago.
Checked codes and got these (3):
1) P0420
2) P1310 and
3) P0420 P ("Pending" ?)
I also checked I/M Readiness and got these suspicious-looking values:CAT: NOT RDYEVAP: NOT RDYO2S: NOT RDYH02S: NOT RDY
NOTE all the other I/M values were N/A
Researching the Codes, it sounded like Ignition, and possibly the O2 sensor on the Catalytic Convertor. I had just had some engine work done by the dealer -- actually, replaced spark plugs -- so I figured to go back and bitch him out for screwing up my car.
A few days later, before I could engage my Rage, I went back and re-scanned. First I noticed the CEL was now OFF. Scanning, I now I get "NO CODES", and all the I/M values are now N/A; No more "NOT RDY".
What do you all make of this? Should I be concerned now that the CEL is Off, and I get No Codes with a scan?Or maybe I should take it to AutoZone for their free CEL diagnosis -- would their machine be more thorough than mine (Autel MaxioScan 300)??
I am going to start on the control arms on my 04 V6 Solara this afternoon since the bushings are beyond gone.I have done control arms on my 98 corolla but i didnt have to deal with the stupid motor mounts being in the way.I have done a search and it seems(if i have this right)that i need to
1.Remove Dog Bone
2.Loosen right and left side motor mounts but dont remove the bolts.
3.Jack up the engine just enough to get a wrench on the hidden bolts on each side.
Am i missing anything?I already have the Mevotech control arms with new ball joints already attached.I plan on renting a ball joint removal tool from autozone.
I recently replaced the spark plugs on my 2002 Camry SE V6 (Gen 5). Let me just say that it was INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to reach the rear 3 plugs as they sit underneath the intake manifold, way to the rear of the engine compartment. To reach those, I had to unplug some wires reaching on top of the engine, then loosen the intake manifold.
Along the way I broke a tiny air valve that sits underneath intake manifold, and replaced it right away, before starting the car.
When everything was put back together, the car started wonderfully, only to notice the engine light come on. I had the codes checked at the dealer and they indicated a malfunctioning Catalytic Converter and A/F Sensor and some other emissions stuff. Later that day, the VCS/TRAC OFF light came on as well. The service guy at the dealer said those typically come on together with the Check Engine light, which sounds like something he pulled out of somewhere!
The car drives well, no hesitation, no weird behavior, but has no traction control, naturally. While loosening the manifold I had to use a little force to flex it out of place. My guess is that it I may have yanked something out place: may be a wire issue, or a sensor.
I have a 2002 Toyota Camry V6. The warranty expired in Feb 2007. The car has only 67,000km.
The check engine light came on and the code is P0770, Solenoid E malfunction. The problem was first reported at 43,000km, when the car was still under warranty but only a transmission flush was performed and the code was reset.
I wrote Toyota and after almost two months they told me they do not cover it because is out of warranty and I do not qualify for the Goodwill program. I tried again to tell them that instead of fixing the root of the problem they temporarily covered it, but again I got a NO. No comments about the mileage, time, etc. Just the car is out of warranty and I'm out of luck.
I have a 2002 v6 Camry with over 270k on it. Today the Check engine light came on while driving on the freeway. When I got home I used my scan tool and it gave me the following codes.
P0128, P0440, P0446 and P0440, P0441, P0446 pending.
I understand that the 128 has to do with coolant temp and that the other codes are evap system related.
What I'm trying to figure out is what might have caused them to all occur at the same time. I know once with my 98 Camry it threw a P0125 which had to do with coolant temp issues but it also threw several other codes for a bad 02 sensor and the 125 was just a false code (replaced the 02 sensors and they went away). If this 128 is possibly a false code or if I also have a bad thermostat/sensor on top of an evap system issue.
Also. coolant level is good and I checked the gas cap and insured it was on tight, reset the codes and am waiting to see what comes back.
My 2002 Toyota Camry XLE V6 (115k miles) stalls once every 4 months (happened thrice in the last year) or so when I'm braking & bringing the care to a complete stop.
The check-engine light comes on just before the car completely stops. The steering wheel feels locked. Putting it back in parking, turning off & turning it back on doesn't work. The car doesn't start. After 10-15 minutes, If I put the key in, turn it on & try to turn the steering wheel while turning it on, it turns back up & runs without any issues for the next few months.
I've taken the car to 3 different mechanics (including a Toyota dealership mechanic) & they tell me that the car is in great condition (I've done a lot of preventive maintenance on the car). They can't find any error codes & they checked everything but can't find any issues
I have 2002 camry 4 cylinders and has 175,000 miles. I was driving on the freeway and suddenly I felt a jerky motion and check engine light came on. When I stopped at light the car began to vibrate and when started driving at low speeds it got me home. Admittedly I had put lot of hard miles on the car in past 6 months and I was lazy in getting oil changed in time. It might have been 7000 miles since oil chg. I took the car to local oil change place they did not mention anything about engine but they said my transmission oil was dark and burnt. They said I should flush and replace. I agreed and tech said he had to do second flush as oil was still dark. After second flush, he said its little bit better.
I was hoping this would solve my problem but unfortunately no. Car was still vibrating and when i drove at slow speed it was driving but as soon as I tried to accelerate the car lost power. Check engine light has been on since the incident at freeway, but now check oil light and battery sign came on. The power steering lost power. I had to park the car and restarted, as long as I drove very slowly it would drive but if I tried to accelerate where the rpm went from 1 or to next level car would loose power with warning lights on. I had recently replaced fuel pump, filter and any repair which was suggested to me. Admittedly I have not done timing chain or belt.
I was driving home and all of a sudden my rpms are at 3.5 4k rpm wont shift to next gear. I put in in tiptronic mode and shift it to 8 it works fine. Then about 10 minutes later check vsc shows on dash traction control light is on check engine light is on and the light next to the check engine i think it is the abs light. I havent pulled the code yet.
View 1 RepliesThe check engine light came on yesterday. 2004 with 115K. Auto Zone read the codes and they are as follows:
Definition:
Idle Air Control Valve control circuit.
Probable Cause:
Open or short circuit condition.
Poor Electrical Connection
Failed IAC motor
About a year ago after I got my oil changed I assumed they spilled oil when filling it at the shop. I actually had smoke coming through my vents at first. The smell has been there intermittently ever since but only when the heater is in use, not when AC is used. What could have been the cause? What should I check? Is there a cabin air filter that should be changed?
View 6 RepliesI bought 2002 3.0L Solara with some issues, one of being a miss fire. What should the resistance be, and which terminals should I be using?
View 1 Replies