High Idle after engine swap. Just finished an engine swap, the motor is out of a 2000 solara. Started the car last night, and the rpms jumped to 4000. The only issue I had with the swap is some how I did not disconnect the two throttle cables, not sure how I missed that, but they did get stretched a little.
View 1 RepliesI own a 2002 Solara V6 with over 300,000mi. The check engine light is on and affecting the tracking control. The dealer cannot find the cause without replacing many parts costing lots of money.
View 2 RepliesAbout a year ago after I got my oil changed I assumed they spilled oil when filling it at the shop. I actually had smoke coming through my vents at first. The smell has been there intermittently ever since but only when the heater is in use, not when AC is used. What could have been the cause? What should I check? Is there a cabin air filter that should be changed?
View 6 RepliesI bought 2002 3.0L Solara with some issues, one of being a miss fire. What should the resistance be, and which terminals should I be using?
View 1 Replies2002 Camry XLE.
I cleaned my throttle body today. Since the throttle plate moves by a motor, in order to keep it open, I turned the key to ON and held the gas pedal down by using some weight.
After I put everything back, the idle was high 2000+, then stays at 1300 to 1400 range. I drove about 10 miles and it is still the same. When stopped at a light in drive, the idle is still 1000
Did I mess up the e-throttle or the throttle position sensor? (Since I used a weight to hold the gas pedal down, I am worried now).
I have a 2002 Toyota Solara SLE 6-cylinder 2-door coupe. 98,000 miles.
I have lots of white smoke at start up. Big time oil consumption. My wife drives car 14 mile round trip each day. Each night, I go out late and start car to burn off oil. There is no smoke in the morning when I do this.
People here have suggested the problem is valve stem seals. Not something I should try to fix myself. I did change the pcv valve.
I took car to mechanic. Told him it might be valve stems. He said he'd have to do the heads. Sounded like it would be expensive.
2002 Toyota Solara SLE v6 w/ 209k miles
Drove the car home from church yesterday, this morning went to start and wouldn't start..
Tested the Fuel Pump and that looks good.. Pulled a spark plug and did a spark test and I get no spark.
After reading up I get the sense it is either the Crank Angle Sensor or the Timing Belt snapped .. I don't know the last time the timing belt was changed, we got the vehicle @ 190k miles..
Does a no spark symptom sound like a timing belt that could have snapped? I believe these are non-interference engines so it should be ok..
When turning the car over the RPM gauges doesn't look like it is moving but wanted to see for a complete spark failure.
Since I've owned the car, which i got in December of 2013, the engine light has been on and off. The previous owner, who drove it off the lot in 2004, was a family member who took it to a mechanic multiple times. Multiple mechanics said it was the gas cap. I replaced the gas cap back in February 2014. The engine light still comes on and occasionally goes off.
Here's some information I've gathered driving the car since then
Straight highway mileage tops out at 28 MPG. Only city/town driving yields about 19/20 mpg, so the gas mileage is okay
Last weekend, I drove around on maine roads for the whole weekend, spending about 90% of the driving time doing 50+ on roads. The engine light successfully went off and stayed off for the longest period of time since i've owned the car.
The rust situation on the car is extremely minor, except for some rusted fittings. Frame rust and general surface rust is non existant except on certain pieces that can be replaced (struts, tie rods, ect) However, there is one piece that looks shitty, which is the spacer between the exhaust header out of the engine and the engine block.
The code the car puts out is either a catalytic system failure or catalytic system operating below threshold. There is a new catalytic converter in the last 3 years, so I highly doubt that's at fault (not to mention the engine light manages to stay off for the yearly inspection and it passes emissions no problem).
Just like the title says, looking to swap in a Nav unit onto my dads 2002 Camry. I've done stereo swaps and all, just looking for some info on how it'd work with the JBL speakers. Do I need to get a JBL compatible stereo?
Also my dad's looking to get an OEM Toyota. He was looking at this one [URL] ....
Why does it look all messed up and stick out so much in the picture?
One evening, I started my car but it shut off right after 2 3 seconds, then check engine light and battery light came ON.
Started again, it ran like normal with check engine light ON. After 2 3 miles, car started chugging & surging before the engine shut off completely. Started again, it ran just fine.
Next day, I took my car to the shop. They found out that P0351, 0352, 0353, 0355, 0356 codes. Then, they replaced 5 ignition coils for $600. But the problem was still there.
I took my car to the shop again, they replaced 2 variable timing valves. Cost $400. Unfortunately, it would not solve the problem. Third solution, they replaced my timing belt. Problem remained unsolved.
However, the check engine light turned itself off when my car ran fine. It turned back on again when my car started chugging & surging and stopped. It has been happening for 1 month. 2 3 times a day, especially in the early morning when the weather is cold and the evening.
At noon, my car just runs fine without any problems, even the check engine light turned itself OFF.
I have a 2006 Toyota Solara V-6. I was driving down the street with no indication of what was about to happen. All of the sudden my check engine light came on and the car lost all power. I had the car towed home and had a mechanic look at it he put his scanner on it and I'm not sure what codes if any came up but he decided it was the ECM so he found a used one with a warranty and ordered it, he put it in and it did the same thing it turns over but wont start. What could it be ?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2002 Camry SE (V6) with approx. 180K miles. The Engine mounts were shot so I decided to change them. I am a reasonably qualified mechanic (FAA Aircraft Mechanic) and perform most my work on my cars so didn't think this would be a big deal.
My procedure was to jack up front & put frame on jack stands then removed both wheels. Then with hydraulic jack and blocks under oil pan I started by removing all or the three lower engine mount hold down nuts (3 on bottom, 1 on top of each. NOTE: I changed the dogbone first which took 5 minutes.
I then jacked up engine about two inches or so and pulled out each old mount, then lowered engine back down making sure everything lined up as best I could. Then finished by tightening all of the nuts. Done. ....or so I thought.
When I went to start, the engine cranked but with a an unusual vibration and generally rough idle, more noisey than usual. When I drive it shift fine and everything works, just unusual vibration and noisey inside car.
I also used my BOSCH code checker and got ZERO CODES.
What is even more unusual is the engine when you are outside the car listening sounds fine. Just sitting inside do I sense the unusual vibration and noisy idle.
I checked for loose vacuum hoses, anything obviously pulled loose, etc and found nothing.
Again the car started and idled fine before the engine mount change now starts kind of rough and is noisy [inside car] but quiet outside.
nothing really changed except the moving of the engine block up and down to get the old mounts out.
After a long trip from Houston to Dallas, my vehicle started to ride rough and eventually die on idle. It seems to idle fine, but then die after the first minute. I am getting code P306 and others all dealing with random misfires and misfires on ALL cylinders. The troubleshooting steps I have taken so far to no avail are:
(1) Replaced spark plugs with pre-gapped iridium
(2) Checked ignition coils
(2) Checked all vacuum hoses and air intake leaks
(3) Changed air filter(not a big deal)
(4) Removed and cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner thoroughly
(5) Checked the intake manifold for leaks and did not find any.
(6) Computer PCM checked for updates and issues at dealer
The dealer said it needed new fuel injectors, which seemed kind of fishy due to the following symptom:
The car runs GREAT at highway speeds, but it is unable to maintain an idle for an extended period of time and dies due to misfires. I hear a chugging in the engine sometimes.
Due to these symptoms, I self diagnosed this as a fuel regulator?
2001 5.4L 4x4...Engine bought from reputable junkyard with 140K has new manifold studs, motorcraft spark plugs, and 8 coils (bought on Amazon).
No check engine codes...checked for vacuum leaks...And has rough idle.
Is there a reason it might have rough idle aside from blown motor? The mechanic was going to take it to get computer reflashed but not trying to throw money down the drain...
1996 Ranger 2.3 140 CID XLT 126,000 Miles. When coming to a stoplight or stopping the engine idle is low and causing engine to almost die. Engine has been stuck at high idle a couple of times. It started with the engine idle slowly coming down and now it its too low. I suspect the Idle air control valve.
View 1 RepliesWe purchased a car close to a year ago that at some point had the oil overfilled. We've had the engine cleaned out by the dealership and the car runs much better now but we still see smoke when the car is turned on and occasionally when it idles for more than a few minutes. Is this something that will just be an ongoing cycle or is there something else we should be having checked?
The car is a 2002 Toyota Solara, automatic, 120k miles.
Recently replaced spark plugs and wires on 02 SL1 with 209K miles. Was running rough, rough and high idle, almost died on me driving home one night. After replacing everything, car still wouldn't start. Spent some time on the forums and some suggested a leaking intake manifold gasket, so I changed that out as well as the coolant temperature sensor. Still it won't start. I am getting good spark at the plugs (coil arcs across the posts when plugs wires are off).
Really not sure where to go next with this. I can hear the fuel pump hum when I turn on the ignition, and I get a good spray at the fuel rail. Basically I turn the key and it cranks, sputters, and will almost catch, but then not. What next??
I have a 2004 Solara and both airbag lights are on. The red dash light and the passenger sensor says off. It is giving codes B1785 and B1650 which I am told are air bag module codes.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Toyota Solara SLE Convertible. Three of my wheels are bent due to hitting various potholes over the past year as well as hitting a curb. I want to replace these wheels with other wheels of the exact same size so that I can use the tires that I already have (since I just bought them) and so that they do not rub on any other part of the wheel well or hub. I have concluded that the size is 17" x 7", that they 5 lug nuts at 114.5 mm. However, I cannot determine how to measure the offset. I have read multiple threads about which offset they are (some say 45 and others say 50). I just need a definitive answer so that I can replace them seamlessly. Its a BUMPY ride right now.
View 2 RepliesAs title says, I cannot fill up tank without pump cutting off every few seconds.
View 2 RepliesI am going to start on the control arms on my 04 V6 Solara this afternoon since the bushings are beyond gone.I have done control arms on my 98 corolla but i didnt have to deal with the stupid motor mounts being in the way.I have done a search and it seems(if i have this right)that i need to
1.Remove Dog Bone
2.Loosen right and left side motor mounts but dont remove the bolts.
3.Jack up the engine just enough to get a wrench on the hidden bolts on each side.
Am i missing anything?I already have the Mevotech control arms with new ball joints already attached.I plan on renting a ball joint removal tool from autozone.