I recently replaced a burnt out left turn signal bulb in my 2002 camry v6 xle. The signal light was blinking quickly. Once replaced problem fixed. Now bulb is not working again and fast flashing is back.
View 2 RepliesMy wife's 2007 Buick Lucerne's directional signal is acting odd... When you turn it to the left-hand blinker, the pace is not the normal factory pace. After two or three cycle it then starts blinking on and off VERY quickly, like those blinkers you see on junkers periodically. The right blinker is normal pace as are the hazards lights. I am looking for potential causes before I bring it in for repair. I can't say anything trigger it, other than I noticed it after a car wash. Electrical problems are not my thing.
View 5 RepliesI just replaced my turn signals with LED's, so obviously the car is reacting to the LED's by flashing quickly.
My question, is there any way of slowing down the speed of the turn signal WITHOUT replacing the LED back to stock bulbs?
I have a 72 F250. When I put the left turn signal on and apply the brakes, the signal stops blinking. I checked the bulb and it was fine. What is the likely cause?
View 2 RepliesI have an '02 camry v6. My hazard lights started blinking when the car is off and aren't responding to the on/off button. When I turned the car on they stopped for a few seconds then blinked rapidly several times, then back to normal blinking. I tried disconnecting the battery and restarting the car. The battery is only a few months old. What could be causing it? Where is the fuse for it located?
View 1 RepliesI now have a 2002 Camry and the left rear turn signal has stopped working. When I put the signal on, it flashes about twice as fast inside and in the front, but nothing in the back. I replaced the bulb but it still didn't work. I'm going to switch the bulb here with the right one and see if it's still good just to be sure. Anyway, the rear left flasher doesn't work either. I've had turn signals be fuse related before but not when it's just one signal that's not working. Live in the city and driving without it is no good.
View 5 RepliesThis has happened only once the other night. I was cruising about 50MPH, hit the brakes for a red light, while I was at the red light the Cruise Control light started flashing. The cruise control would not engage at any speed during the flashing stage, and I didn't think it would as a flashing light usually means a malfunction. I went a few miles turned the car off, restarted it and haven't had a problem since. Just chalk this up to a 1 time glitch?
View 8 Replies2002 Mountaineer... Driving into work today, my over drive light started to blink very fast. I have not had any trouble with high RPM's or shifting..
We had a very rainy/slushy/snowy drive in and never went faster than 30 miles per hour. Could an ice or snow build up be the culprit? I sure hope so!
I have a 2002 accord with 118k miles that recently after a car wash and oil change, the oil pressure light came on a stays on blinking. I took it to my mechanic and he put a manual pressure gauge on and found that the oil pressure was normal. He changed the oil pressure sensor but the light still is blinking. He believes that having the car washed, under body wash, might have shorted out the harness. Been driving the car for a week and it seems fine, no noticeable difference in performance or sounds coming from the engine.
View 19 RepliesMy 2002 Ford Explorer has a 4.0 liter engine. The overdrive light on the dash is blinking.......what repair and how much would it cost to expedite that repair? Also the ABS light is on....
View 19 RepliesMy son has a 02 - 2 wheel driver xls. His over driver light is blinking on and off. what the problem might be? He has about an 80 mile round trip drive today before he can get it to the dealer. Would he be damaging the vehicle if he drives it that far?
View 1 RepliesMy overdrive light is blinking off and on. When I accelerate normally, the truck starts stumbling? (don't know a better word) some, sort of like a clogged air filter or fuel filter. I am going to take it to a transmission shop because its a little beyond me, but don't want to get ripped off.
View 10 Repliesmy wife's 2003 Camry LE had the blinking AC light issue. i started noticing it in the winter but since we were still able to run the heat, i thought nothing of it. fast forward to our first heat wave of the year, and now i'm a little more interested in fixing it. so i read that most cases were result of a bad relay. i ordered one and replaced it and still get the blinking AC light. i bought an other, just in case, and haven't installed it yet. what i did do, however, was check for continuity on the new and the original and if i'm doing it correctly, they both have continuity which leads me to believe there is something else going on here. I did the cabin air filter at the same time as the relay.
What else i can check? i personally don't have much in the way of workspace and tools, but i have access to a well-equipped friend's garage. This car is in overall good shape, but there is an oil leak under the hood and probably needs a valve cover gasket. it also has a sloshing noise which i think is air in the coolant.
2002 Passat GLS, 1.8T, 98K miles.
Was driving home tonight and nearly didn't make it. A few miles down the road I hit the gas hard going up a hill but the Passat kind of lunged a little and lost a lot of power and the engine emblem starting blinking. Coasted down a hill and it stopped and all was well again. From here on I am going careful up hills and not accelerating too fast.
I drive about 30 miles, 10 miles to go and I have to pull a tall hill. Going up this hill the light starts blinking again and I lose most of my power, engine feels like its not hitting on all cylinders and the turbo must be out. Barely make it home going about 40 mph. My check engine light has been on for quite some time, in fact I have had reset about 6-8 times with replacing sensors, air mass meters, etc. Could this be the timing belt?
We bought a new 2002 Escape 4WD and it has been great. Just clicked 130k. However, yesterday my wife said the car clunked when putting in reverse, and then the OD light started blinking. Shortly after that the Escape would not drive in gear, just a spinning noise. After the car was shut off for a few, it would drive again, but not very far. Fluid is good, and it will only drive for a while. I noticed a broken vacuum line coming from the trans, but could't tell where it went.
View 3 RepliesLeft the truck sitting for a couple of months while working out of town. I bought this truck used with only 1 key. We rebuilt the engine and had noise issues so we don't want to drive it much until this is resolved. I went out to start the truck to move it and it would not start. It had cranked right up the week before. Now it just spins over and the theft light blinks rapidly. I've check all the door locks.
When I called a Ford dealership all the service guy would tell me is that it's going to have a new key made and I have to have the title on the truck to get it done. AND, I have to have the truck towed to a dealership to fix the problem of it not starting... The battery drained down so I took it out and charged it... only thing I can possibly think of is a low battery or maybe somebody tried to steal it while I was out of town and messed up something.
Green AC light 1998 Camry. I turned the defroster on yesterday and it didnt work...just started fogging up windows worse... while this was going on the green AC light was blinking. Later the defrost worked fine and the green AC light did not blink .... What exactly the green light is indicating. I would assume it indicates the compressor is on and working.. but dont understand why it blinked and did not work at that time I mentioned, and started working again with nothing being done.
View 1 RepliesI have an 09 Camry LE with about 59k miles on it and I just noticed today that When I turn my car on the maintenance required light blinks. But as soon as I put the car in drive it goes away, and does not return when I put it in park again.
I know all of your dash lights should come on at start up to show you that they work. But they all go off and that one remains flashing. I never looked at it before to know whether or not it's always been that way. Also when I first turn on my car, it idles at about 1.5k-2k rpm's. But if I keep my foot on the break and put it in drive then park again it sits at 1k or below. Is this normal? If not what should I be checking out?
So I had a serious runability problem back in 2012 with code P0302 (misfire in cylinder 2) and the car was barely running. I changed the spark plugs, which didn't fix the issues. Then changed the coil, which fixed it. URL...But I was a little lazy back in September 2012, the old spark plug wires looked like they were still in great shape, so I left the old wires on. I think they were the original factory wires, they had the numbers of each cylinder printed on the side. Very nice wires!
Fast-forward to the present. Car starts running poorly with a blinking check-engine light. Not good! I check the code and it is P0306, misfire in cylinder 6. So my first thought was: OK, probably time to change the spark plug wires!I changed the spark plug wires. I purchased AutoLite Professional Series wires at Advance Auto Parts, part 97047. URL...Sure enough, the number 6 wire looked like it had a little corrosion inside the end that connects to the spark plug wire. It looked like I was on the right track! Changed the spark plug wires, and ran it. It still sounded like it might be missing on one cylinder. Just a quiet ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch at idle. I took it for a test drive. It ran OK at low RPM's, but had no power. When I tested some hard acceleration, sure enough the check engine light came back on. Tested the code and it was P0306 again. Conclusion: not fixed yet.
OK, maybe the spark plug wire was the problem, just the plug got fouled because the wire was bad. I purchased a replacement spark plug for that cylinder only. AutoLite Double Platinum as recommended elsewhere in this forum. Removed the old plug. I'm no expert, but the old plug looked fine to me. Installed the new plug. Tested it again. Still sounded like missing at idle ch-ch-ch-ch-ch. Test drive, OK with low RPM, no power. Tried hard acceleration, got the blinking CEL again. Conclusion: still not fixed - darn it!
Now remember, I just changed the coil back in September 2012. I had replaced it with a coil from AutoZone. The first coil had lasted ten years. So it couldn't be the coil again this soon, right? But... just to be sure, I went ahead and changed the coil again. I called AutoZone and happily it was still under warranty. The previous coil I had purchased came with a 24-month warranty, and I was on month 23 !!! Sweet!AutoZone also told me if I did a warranty replacement of the coil, the new one would come with a lifetime warranty instead.The part number of the coil at AutoZone was part C1312, Duralast Ignition Coil.
Before installing the new coil, I put a little Dielectric grease around the top inside of each connector on the new coil (7 total, six spark plug wires plus the electrical connector). I think this was recommended in my Haynes or Chilton manuals.I am a tall skinny guy with long skinny arms. So I was able to replace the coil without removing the cowl. Last time I had to remove the cowl (to do the intake manifold isolator bolt repair) the cowl had cracked, also some of the clips holding it down broke. So I didn't want to remove the cowl unless necessary. It turns out with my long skinny arms I can lay up over the motor and reach back around both sides of the intake manifold to reach the coil. It is a reach, but it was possible for me to do the job that way.
I removed the three bolts holding the old coil in place. Then I was able to slide the new coil back in there, around the driver's side of the intake manifold. I transferred over the spark plug wires one by one from old to new (as recommended by another poster) so I wouldn't get confused which was which. It worked well to transfer the rear three first. That hold the new coil near the correct location, and gave me more slack to move the old coil further out of the way.Next step was to remove the wire connector from the rear of the coil pack. It didn't want to release. I looked at the old part (from 2012!!!) and there was a little plastic nub back there to lock the connector in place. It looked like there was room to work in a small screwdriver back there to release the lock. So I wiggled a short flat-head screwdriver in back there (with a wide head) and it released. Then I was able to easily remove the connector.
Then I had more slack to move the old coil further out of the way, toward the drivers side and front of the vehicle. And then transferred the last three spark plug wires to the new coil.Then to secure the new coil in place, I carefully installed one bolt by hand, leaving it loose to allow for final adjustments of position. Installed the second and third bolts loosely. Tightened the three bolts finger tight using a short (3") extension and 7mm socket (1/4" drive). Then snugged them very gently using my small 1/4" rachet. The small 1/4" rachet was a perfect fit using the 3" inch extension and the small 7mm socket. Remember you just want the bolts snug, do not over-tighten them.
When I went back to AutoZone to process the warranty return, they had to do some fancy work with their computer to get me the lifetime warranty on the new coil. By default it would just assume the rest of the original coil warranty from 2012 - which was just about to expire. So they made it right for me - but only because I specifically asked about it. By default, the guy had already rung it up their "normal" way, which would not have extended the warranty for me.Another thing that was strange was back in September 2012 when I replaced the original coil, it had worked well for ten years or so! Also, the bottom of it was clearly cracked, so it was easy to see that it had deteriorated and needed to be replaced.
Drove fairly fast (160km/hr or 100 miles/hr) then took an exit down a ramp and had to stop at a red light. Noticed all of a sudden that the engine was running bit rougher and then noticed the yellow engine light blinking. I know to turn off the engine immediately when this occurs but then all of a sudden engine light turned off and car was running smooth again.
Car has been reliable for 7 years - proper maintained, synthetic oil, 171000km, timing belt changed, burns very little oil, good torque. Should I have it checked by the dealer (fantastic fair vw dealer)?
had a problem with their OD light blinking and shift problems. This past week my od light started blinking and when I shifted into drive, it was stuck in overdrive. When I shift into 1st it would go to 2nd and stay there. So basically I had 2nd and overdrive. I started replacing sensors like the VSS, and checking the wiring warness. Took it to a transmission garage and they told me it was toast. Then I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new tranny. After replacing the tranny it did the same thing with the same codes showing. Then I got smart and checked the fuses. Of course it was as simple as a blown fuse causing all the trouble. In my truck it was fuse 23 under the dash. A 20 amp fuse that was listed as engine control. Im not saying that in every case if the OD light starts blinking it's as simple as a fuse but in my case it was, so lesson learned. Always check the fuses first.
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