Camry :: 2002 - No Start / Check Fuel Pressure System?
Dec 25, 2015
I recently purchased a 2002 camry 2.4l 198k miles from a friend. His mechanic said engine was on it's way out so the next day after work the car didn't turn on so he thought his mechanic was right. So he told me about it and said it needed a new engine so me being a guy that likes to purchase broken down things I got it. I had it towed home and was going to mess with it on my free time.
So today I got under the hood and first thing I did was spray starting fluid in the intake. It turned on and was running good then shut off. First thing I'm thinking is fuel pump. When I disconnected the fuel line to the fuel rail and primed it it had fuel gushing out.
So now I want to check if the fuel pressure is right. I know the 5th generation camrys have a different fuel system that's kinda new to me. ( I know I'm out dated, I mess with diesels and older Hondas) so my question is what steps or processes of elimination steps should I take to keep this car running? How do I test the fuel pressure system on this car? Oh and before I purchased the car he said he "super filled up" the tank.
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
View 8 Replies
I need to check the fuel pressure to verify if my fuel pump is functioning. What is the procedure and PSI?
Assume that I open the valve on fuel rail with engine off, then connect pressure tester kit, put key in ignition to "on" position, then pump up to specified PSI???
View 3 Replies
My son has a 09 Vibe 1.8L automatic and it won't start. Among other things, I also I want to check to see if it has spark and fuel pressure.
First of all, can I check for spark by looking at the signals into the coil packs? I realize that this won't actually tell me if there is spark at the plugs, but I'd like to know if the ECU is commanding spark or not. One of the coil packs was replaced a couple of months ago, so I'm fairly confident that it is OK. And it's hard to believe that all of the rest of them would suddenly have a problem.
As far as the fuel pressure is concerned, I don't see a valve on the fuel rail to connect a standard fuel pressure gauge. I'm assuming that I need to some how tap a gauge into the rubber supply line, prior to the metal line going to the fuel rail, but I'm not sure this is the recommended way.
View 3 Replies
My wife's Pathfinder (a 2002) has developed a problem with slow starting. The car cranks well (even at -20F, so it's not a weak battery) but takes a long time to start. It might crank for 5 seconds before sputtering to life. After being driven and shut off, most of the time, it will start up instantly again, just like it used to before the problem started. The problem is intermittent in that it sometimes starts pretty quickly in the morning, although it's not the instant start that it used to be, it might only crank for 1 second or less. I know that sounds like a normal time for a car to crank before starting, but the Pathfinder used to start, almost literally, instantly after the key was turned. So, even 1 second is an uncharacteristically long time.
What I've done:
-- Replaced spark plugs
-- Swapped the starter relays with identical relays under hood
-- Replaced fuel filter
What I haven't done:
--Replaced fuel pump
--Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Both of these are somewhat big jobs (I think I can handle both of them) and more expensive than what I've already done, so I'd like to get some input on where the fault could lie before picking one. Or, am I completely off base thinking it's fuel system?
View 2 Replies
I've had this new car (SE Special Edition) for two weeks and I've received the Check Charging System 3 times over two weeks when trying to start the car and it fails to start. My foot is on the brake when I press the Start button. Battery is OK as lights and radio work fine.
This morning I spent over an hour trying to get the car started before having it towed back to the dealer. Service promptly said the car started right up. They confirmed that the battery is OK. Dealer says they are looking further but I'm frustrated that it started right up for them.
The first two times (a week ago) I couldn't start it, I would wait 5 minutes and then it started right up.
View 14 Replies
for the past week we have been trying to figure out what is wrong with our truck. We recently bought it and it ran fine. Then got in a minor accident just a fender bender and it started acting up so I got towed to garage. First it would run when cold, but when hot fuel pressure would drop to 28 psi.
So I put new fuel pump, it started but still did the same thing hot 28 psi fuel pressure shuts off. So I put regulator on it, then had 0 fuel pressure won't even start. So got a another regulator thinking I got a bad one, still 0. Checked relay, there fine. I'm gonna check lines and see where fuel stops at but everything is new on it.
View 1 Replies
Working on a 88 Ranger 2.9L 5-speed ext cab. The fuel pressure drops off fairly fast when turned off and I'm pretty sure that the check valve is bad. My question is, which pump has the check valve? It is a single mid tank set-up and has a pump in the tank and on the frame.
Pressure is fine while running. about 30psi @ idle and 40psi with no vacuum on the regulator. The pressure drops off within a couple of minutes which causes it to have to crank over for a bit to rebuild pressure and start.
It looks like the frame pump is readily available while the in take pump is special order. I just need to know which one has a check valve. I'm thinking the in tank pump, but I hate to waste money for the wrong pump.
Pressure drop rate
30 psi @ shut off
25 psi @ 1:05 min
20PSI @ 2:30 min
15psi @ 4:45 min
still dropping
View 7 Replies
I have a 1988 Ford F-250 Lariat, 7.5L 460, four-wheel drive. I have two fuel tanks on it, and I've been having a really annoying, obnoxious problem with it lately. After running it for a while, I noticed that I keep losing fuel pressure, and the truck stalls. When I try to start it, it does nothing but roll over. It just won't start. I've changed the fuel filter, I know both fuel pumps are working (I turn over the key, I can hear front, back, and high pressure pump attached to the left side frame rail kick in.) It's Fuel Injected, not EFI, hence that third pump. The problem happens a lot, and it's random. I could drive for 100 miles, stop to get something to eat, come out, and it won't start.
I thought maybe it was the fuel pressure regulator, but I don't think that's the case because it still runs. I would assume that if the regulator was bad, it wouldn't run at all. I also thought that maybe it was the relay, but according to some mechanics I spoke too, if I can hear the pumps kick in when I turn the key over, then the relay is fine. The only thing I could think of is that it might be the fuel selector switch. Maybe it's going bad, shorting out or something. When I flip the switch though, it switches between fuel tanks, and the gauge reads how much fuel is in it from the sending unit.
There's a schrader-type valve up by the fuel injectors. When I push it in, it barely squirts any fuel out, if at all, so I know the pressure is low. When I push it in on a good day, it sprays out like a water fountain. Just tried starting it again - no good. Pushed on the valve, it spurted out some fuel pretty well, but still won't start. Occasionally tries to, but ultimately won't. I know the spark is good, checked the plugs/distributor cap. Can't get the sucker to start.
View 14 Replies
I am a newbie as far as fuel injection. The original issue the truck had was no fuel. I tracked down the issues to a blown fuel pump relay and a melted inertia switch. I jumped the inertia wires with a new fuel pump relay installed and the truck ran at an idle and up to 3500 RPM when stationary. If the truck is going up a grade or needs more throttle it will start to lose fuel pressure and end up stalling. I had the fuel pressure gauge connected to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and had 30-35 PSI when idling. It runs good under light load on the throttle.
Under heavy load it starts to drop quickly and if you back off the throttle it will stay running some times. I changed the fuel filter and also replaced the high pressure pump on the main frame and it still has the same problems.The original pump was pumping about 13 ounces of fuel in the 20 second test that the repair manual suggested. I have even placed a jumper wire direct to the new fuel pump to bypass original wiring and possible problems. When it stalls under load (No Fuel pressure) at the schrader valve you can hear the fuel pump running but there is no fuel pressure.
If I turn off the ignition for a few minutes and then turn the key back to the on position it will start to pressurize and then start and run at an idle. I even replace the ignition switch as it was a little temperamental. I have not changed or checked the fuel pressure regulator as it is a pain to get to at the back of the engine. I do not want to spend a fortune tracking down this problem since the truck may not even pass its smog inspection and may be a parts truck only.
67 F-250 4x4
73 Crew 4x2 (4x4 Soon)
89 F-250 Super Cab 4x4
View 11 Replies
I have an intermittent electrical problem that I thought was the alternator but my mechanic says isn't. Every now and then the sound system will start rebooting and the heater fan may stop and start.
Normally voltage across the battery is about 13.8v or more. At times the car changes into the error state which continues until the car is restarted. It may then or may not re-enter the problem state.
When the car is in the state where the radio re-starts, the voltage across the battery drops to around 13.2v. The two big fans on the radiator start and stop according to the thermostatic control. It is this startup that causes the radio to restart etc. I got one flash on my multimeter of a drop to 12.8v across the battery on the start. This would be due to extra draw to start the fan motors and is usually too fast for my multimeter to react to.
Entering problem state might happen once a month. It seems more likely on long trips and is so intermittent it is hard to diagnose. Its start coincided with the replacement of the head unit with an after market one. I have checked repeatedly for loose wires behind that unit that are shorting out, now I am thinking it is somewhere in the charging circuit.
View 3 Replies
Suddenly got the "check tire pressure system" error (not the tire pressure one) so I tried the only procedure I could find, turning ignition on and holding reset tpms button below steering colum. Got the tpms resetting message but the previous message came back. How can I fix that issue? Never had that before.
View 14 Replies
How/Where do I check the Fuel Pressure on my 95 Aurora?
How much fuel pressure is needed to start and then for the engine to run normally?
View 1 Replies
I stopped and when I started the SF the engine light stayed on. I shut it off and checked oil. Oil good. When I started it again it didn't start as swiftly as it normally would. Since I still had 150km to go in the dark I decided to give it a whirl as the alternative, like waiting for a tow truck, would be many hours.
Max rpm, about 2000. Give more gas and it sputters. Eventually nursed it to maintain 80-100 kmh at the 2k rpm. Since it was mostly downhill I continued to at least get closer to civilization. Found sort of a sweet spot and was able to maintain 100kmh on level ground and lost some on grades. Engine was running smooth.
As it turned out I made it home. Total milage on SF: 58,250 km. Guess I'll see what the dealer says on Monday.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2004 Explorer with 167,000 miles that has begun to display erractic messages such as, check charging system, low tire pressure, AvTrac off and about everything there is. Reset and everything looks good then messages start again. I am thinking computer module.
View 3 Replies
So I've gotten this error code a few times now but never a CEL nor does the car drive any diff.
1 Fault Found:
000136 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure: Too High
P0088 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
View 5 Replies
2002 E-250 with the 4.6 V-6. Pulled the 30 amp fuse, replaced the fuel filter, replaced the fuse, now the truck wont start. Checked the fuse and the kill switch under the passenger kick cover, all ok. Cranks and cranks but wont fire. No problem prior to changing the filter. Even swithed out the relay with another, no luck.
View 4 Replies
1994 150 300 6. parked truck after lunch finished work and it wont start no fuel comes out of the valve. Can't get the pump to work even when jumping the 6 pin. heard the relay click still nothing. Checked the inertia switch it wasn't popped. Took the pump out jumped it straight from the battery pump works . I know there has to be something i am missing...
View 7 Replies
What a dilemma, somewhat of a novice, about to rebuild Holley 1850 for 2nd time in past 12yrs and dispite a number of backfires over the years does not appear to have damaged the 'power valve'. Purchased the Hly 125-500 check ball kit, although the installation appears fairly simple, taking a drill to my throttle plate I have some reservation. Any members familiar with the upgrade, considering returning the kit and not risk, thru operator error, ending up replacing carburetor.
View 7 Replies
The Tire Pressure Warning System display on my XLE hybrid shows icons for four tires in a horizontal row with the pressure readings beneath each icon. The icons are not arranged in the logical layout of two by two. There is no indication to which tire an icon corresponds. In other words, if the display indicates low pressure beneath one of the four icons in the horizontal row, you do not know to which tire the icon corresponds.
View 14 Replies
2006 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax.
When I park it with the front end elevated even just slightly higher than the rear the fuel system loses pressure and I have to pump it up using the manual pump under the hood. This usually happens after 15 - 20 minutes of park time. When it is parked flat it usually will last hours or more, and if I park it with the rear elevated over the front then it doesn't seem to have a time frame. in other words it does not lose pressure at all.
View 3 Replies
