Camry :: 2002 - No Heat Move To The Floor From Heater
Oct 15, 2012
I cannot get the heater to move heat to the floor in my 02 Camry LE I-4? All other modes seem to function just fine.
View 1 RepliesI cannot get the heater to move heat to the floor in my 02 Camry LE I-4? All other modes seem to function just fine.
View 1 RepliesI've noticed today on my Camry that no matter what I set the air flow selector to on my heater, air only blows on the floor. Temperature and and fan speed seem to work fine. Going around to some local repair shops I was told the whole dash would need to be removed for a repair.
From what I have read changing the air flow selector I should hear some motor make the change from the floor to the face, but do not hear anything.
I've had this 2012 SE I4 for about 6 months, but since it has been cold, I've noticed that when switching heat to floor vents only mode, that most of the air still flows through the upper vents (I'd estimate about 50% still flows through the upper vents).
I've taken a thermometer and read 80F coming out of top vent and about 60F coming out of the bottom.
When driving my face/body feel like they are on fire but feet still remain cold. Took to the dealer and they said there is a temp/and airflow difference but appears normal.
If this is normal, it is totally different than any other car I've owned. Does most of the air still come out of the upper vents when on floor vent only?
Starts up fine but the car does not move. Car also has loud whine on cold starts coming out of driver side fender. It will also whine above 2000 rpm even after sitting out in the sun but goes away after driving. The car is at my parent's place and will be able to look at it later today..
View 4 RepliesI replaced the front hubs and bearings on my brothers 2002 Camry today. He drove less than a block and developed awful grinding noise and it won't move in reverse or drive. It rolls when I put it in park. I had to pull it back into my shop. Is it possible the inner CV came loose and i didn't realize it? It all seemed to go back together fine. The new CV axle nuts were quite tight and slow to put on with my impact gun.
What else could possible go kaput when I re & re hub/bearings? And what a long ugly job to replace those bearings. Don't even think about doing this without a good hydraulic press. Up to the point of getting knuckle off, it was easy job.
About a year ago after I got my oil changed I assumed they spilled oil when filling it at the shop. I actually had smoke coming through my vents at first. The smell has been there intermittently ever since but only when the heater is in use, not when AC is used. What could have been the cause? What should I check? Is there a cabin air filter that should be changed?
View 6 RepliesMy wife has a 02 Solara V6. It has been a cold spring and now it has warmed up and in the 80's and a problem has reared its head. Engine runs fine, will warm up normally and while driving will stay at a normal halfway temp.
Problem is it will heat up at idle, say at a light. The fans run, but half assed. They'll kick in with the AC on and the temps will drop, but then they switch off to half assed speed again. I will probably take a multimeter and measure the voltage at each fan plug when they are running slow.
The weird part is both fans go full bore when the AC is on and then slow after about 4-5 mins.
I have 02 camry xle with digital a/c , the a/c only works on max cold, if i set the temp to 65 ot 70 ot any number it will become heat ,
View 2 RepliesSo my friends 2002 camry has a problem where she shifts the shifter into drive, but the gear position indicator in the cluster still shows her in park, and the car will still be in park with parking pawl engaged. is this a sensor that went out, or a deeper transmission problem to be dealt with?
View 1 Replies02 Camry with 202k. Recently my car has been blowing cold air only when it's on heat. Then it will start to overheat causing me to stop and pull over and I see little smoke come out. Also it has been leaking antifreeze and when I make sharp turns or come to a stop I can hear water or something behind the dash...
View 5 RepliesI have an intermittent electrical problem that I thought was the alternator but my mechanic says isn't. Every now and then the sound system will start rebooting and the heater fan may stop and start.
Normally voltage across the battery is about 13.8v or more. At times the car changes into the error state which continues until the car is restarted. It may then or may not re-enter the problem state.
When the car is in the state where the radio re-starts, the voltage across the battery drops to around 13.2v. The two big fans on the radiator start and stop according to the thermostatic control. It is this startup that causes the radio to restart etc. I got one flash on my multimeter of a drop to 12.8v across the battery on the start. This would be due to extra draw to start the fan motors and is usually too fast for my multimeter to react to.
Entering problem state might happen once a month. It seems more likely on long trips and is so intermittent it is hard to diagnose. Its start coincided with the replacement of the head unit with an after market one. I have checked repeatedly for loose wires behind that unit that are shorting out, now I am thinking it is somewhere in the charging circuit.
Just got a P1135 Code on the 1MZ-FE 2002 Camry.
My code reader pulls it up as (no typo below) : AirCFuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction.
So I know it's a bad Air/Fuel sensor. Which one though? I replaced the rear sensor by the firewall about 6 months ago which fixed the check engine code (I don't remember the code). Would it make sense that the front one failed now or the back one failed again? Most of my research points me to a bad rear sensor however a lot of people also report that a code reader would report the sensor as "Bank 1 Sensor 1".
The rear sensor was replaced with a Denso 234-9042 Sensor.
I would play the replace and test game... however inspection is due within the month and after resetting the code, it usually takes about 50 miles to return. Being in college, 50 miles takes about 2 weeks.
Drove to work in 6" of snow in 4H with no issues. Shifted back into 2H for drive home as roads were clear with no issues. Went to shift into 4H moments ago and floor shifter will not move!
View 1 Replies07 Expedition, front and defrost vents work for heat and AC but not the floor. There is a tiny bit of air flowing on the floor vents when I switch to them, but not enough to keep my feet warm in the winter. Vacuum? Where would I look for the floor vent vacuum lines?
View 1 RepliesDetails about my car: '91 Nissan Maxima. His name is Max. 183,265ish miles on it. Transmission was replaced maybe 8 years ago(?) My dad said the oil was changed at the 500 mark. Filled the tank up at Citgo with regular gas on Friday and only drove about 50 miles (I fill up every 200 miles or less). Max turns on but you have to floor it just to move an inch and it smells like gas.
View 15 RepliesThe transmission is a Six-speed MQ350 transmission in an MKIV 337 GTI.
I was driving last week and ran over a large snow chunk, heard it hit the underside of my car. A mile down the road my foot is resting on the clutch pedal at a stop light, and the clutch slowly went to the floor. It was still drivable, barely. The clutch came about an inch off the floorboard, but still caught. So i pull into the parking lot ahead of me, and was barely able to move the shifter left to right nor would the shifter go into gear. There were no fluids coming from under the car, nor could i see anything that looked wrong. I turned off, back on again. nothing. I then pulled the clutch pedal up from the floor and it went back to normal. Everything seems normal now, but the shifter seemed a little sticky yesterday from left to right.
My heater is currently stuck on the floor and I cannot get the vents to point to the defrost. I replaced the knob, and still nothing. It appears that the wiring to the knob connects to a wide cylindrical piece that looks loose.
View 1 RepliesI bought a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo about 3-4 months ago. One problem i have is that the heat wont switch from the floor. I've heard the motor that does this is called the mode actuator, which moves a flap to direct air to different ducts, etc. I've checked all vacuum line that i could see, nothing. It is quite hard to work on as everything is literally jammed under the dash. It is also quite dangerous as I cannot defrost my windshield in the winter. I get a tiny bit of heat up to the defroster, but not a lot. Heat works very well, but cannot switch from floor. Cant even hear the little hiss that you get on other cars when you switch. I just have the basic 3 knob fan speed, directional flow, and temp knobs, as well as an A/C button.
View 6 RepliesWould the control on dash cause there to be no air coming out heater vents on floor. I can hear the blower very loudly in dash about in the middle air comes out dash vents and out defroster ducts. When you switch to heater you get blower noise but very little air coming out floor vents.is it the control or possibly a vacuum mother on a vent somewhere
View 3 RepliesI've got a 99 with manual heater with no heat, a 23 code from the bcm, pulled fuse 19 for 5 minutes, still the same.Also when it was hot and we were running the air the passenger floor was wet. my question is what do I have to take off the dash (and how without breaking) to get to the heater?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2010 GMC 3500 Savanah van with 6.0 motor. No heat in van. Engine operating temp is normal. Heater hose into core is hot. Hose coming out is barely warm. I am of course hoping for another explanation other then blocked heater core. The truck only has 45k miles. I am ready to backflush , but wondering if there can be any other explanation. A/C works normal.
View 1 Replies