Camry :: 2002 - Missed Shift After Engine Replaced
Jul 11, 2013
Own a 2002 Camry 4 cyl with 186K, like it soooo much ,once a day I get something like a missed shift around 20 mph .
I notice that over 65 mph, the RPM's are higher than my other Camry: 65 mph 2450 RPM instead of 2300. 70 RPM 2700 RPM instead of 2450. 75 MPH 2900 RPM instead of 2700.
At 80 MPH drifts between 3000 - 3200 RPM instead of 2800. When idling in park, I heard a whining noise coming from the Trans. I was told it recently had the engine replaced.
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Ive got a 2000 4x4 F-150 with a 4.6 and a 4r70w. The transmission and transfercase were replaced by the P.O aprox 2,000 miles before i bought it..
i was driving it today, and while accelerating it missed a shift into 3rd, then nothing no forward or reverse, i sat and messed with the gears for a while then suddenly it shifted into 1st now it drives with a slight resistance, revs up to about 3K before shifting and shifts HARD up and down, and i cannot get over 40 mph its at about 2800 rpms and feels like im hitting a rev limiter wont shift again and wont accelerate anymore..
When at that speed I hit the OD off and it downshifts so i think i still have od?
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I recently replaced the spark plugs on my 2002 Camry SE V6 (Gen 5). Let me just say that it was INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to reach the rear 3 plugs as they sit underneath the intake manifold, way to the rear of the engine compartment. To reach those, I had to unplug some wires reaching on top of the engine, then loosen the intake manifold.
Along the way I broke a tiny air valve that sits underneath intake manifold, and replaced it right away, before starting the car.
When everything was put back together, the car started wonderfully, only to notice the engine light come on. I had the codes checked at the dealer and they indicated a malfunctioning Catalytic Converter and A/F Sensor and some other emissions stuff. Later that day, the VCS/TRAC OFF light came on as well. The service guy at the dealer said those typically come on together with the Check Engine light, which sounds like something he pulled out of somewhere!
The car drives well, no hesitation, no weird behavior, but has no traction control, naturally. While loosening the manifold I had to use a little force to flex it out of place. My guess is that it I may have yanked something out place: may be a wire issue, or a sensor.
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today I replaced the battery on our 2002 Camry SE 2.4l because it was incredibly slow to crank today...but it did crank. So i get a Duralast Gold to replace a Toyota TrueStart battery, and it started up fine. However, it was idling at 200-400 RPMs, so its already not right. So I drive it a quick mile or so, and when letting off the gas the RPMs drop to 200-400 while going down the street! Coming to a stop, it really wanted to stall out. Couple stops later, it did stall out, and the Check Engine light, Battery light, and Oil light all came on. Trying to restart it it cranked, started, but then immediately died. You know when you start it the RPM needle goes high and then comes down a bit? It does that, but the needle won't stop and it just goes to 0, and throws the Check Engine, battery, and oil light. I finally got it cranked, and all 3 previously mentioned lights are off when its running. It has done it one other time about 3 months ago when I disconnected the negative battery terminal for some work, and it did the same exact thing. It ended up just fixing itself, but obviously not since its rough starting and the problem came back the next time I disconnected the battery.
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I changed my dogbone mount over the weekend. Did not get a oem but got one from advance auto for 50 bucks. So I noticed a vibration when I'm in reverse or drive. I got some vids of the engine running. Could the cheap mount I got just be causing more vibration than the old one?? Which was cracked?
[URL].....
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I have a 2002 Toyota Camry LE V6 with codes p1135 and p1155. Both sensors that are supposedly faulty have been replaced.
The new sensors are denso 234-9043 and 234-9047. I am confident that the second one was the right one replaced as both the new and the old had a little green marker(the location is near the firewall.) not 100% sure about the other one.
The sensors were brand new so I don't know what the problem is.
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My 2002 Camry has an automatic transmission that works fine except when it is about 20 degrees or colder. The problem is that the transmission does not want to shift from first to second gear. After about ten minutes things shift normally. Other than that I have had no issues with the transmission.
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what I have is for the 10-20k miles I've own this car (now at 130k), the first mile or 2 of driving the transmission goes to a higher rpm than normal before shifting to the next gear. Is this indicative of pending failure? It has always done it. Also, I try to do the transmission drain fill every other oil change or so.
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2002 2.7L. Engine seized. Bought a replacement also from a 2002. Tried to start today and no spark. I just replaced the physically broken crank position sensor. That seemed like it would be an obvious and easy fix, but still no spark. The broken sensor had frayed/shorted wires. Could that have damaged the PCM /ECU? There is a 2003 Santa Fe at U-Pull-It that was running when it came in. Will the PCM from that work? I am running out of time. I have to have this running before I leave on a flight tomorrow night. I do have a code reader (if I can find it) but I can't imaging it would have any codes if it hasn't started since I had the battery out. Not sure how that works.
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I have a 2007 Camry LE with 86K miles. The car was burning oil like crazy and failed the oil consumption test so Toyota put a new motor in the car. I picked it up from the dealer 2 weeks ago and after driving it 40 miles, the transmission went out. The dealership had it towed that day and now after 2 weeks of them not returning my calls or providing any update, they tell me that it was coincidence that my transmission failed 1 hour after I picked it up from them. What are the chances that it had nothing to do with the work they've done?
When I brought it in it was driving fine - the only problem was the oil consumption, no slipping or knocking. Now you can drive it for 20 minutes just fine, but as soon as it warms up, the transmission quits.
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2 weeks ago my Camry 2008 failed the oil consumption test, so toyota fixed the engine. Few days after I got my car, I turned on the A/C but I was surprised that the compressor wont work. Totally dead.
I took the car to toyota and they check it out, they said they dont know whats wrong with compressor and I need to replace it for 1200$!!! IT WAS NOT A FREON PROBLEM, They claim that electricity is being delivered to the compressor but its just not working.
Is it possible that they messed up my compressor while fixing the engine? Also, I really don't want to fix it for that much, any thoughts where to fix it cheaper?
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By mistake I hit the manual gear on my camry 2013. Luckily traffic was bad so I was driving for a few minutes around 40 mph and reached 60. The engine was noisy but I didn't know what's going on until later. I switch back to auto mode and noise went away. How bad is that? Do I have to do sthg?
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I've got an 02 Camry with the 2.4l 4, it's got a whistling sound from the engine that isn't ground-speed or engine-speed dependent, it's triggered by specific throttle positions...
Because of this, I'm 99.9% sure it's simply air whistling over the throttle plate at certain angles (my old 88 ford station wagon's throttle screamed like a banshee when the cruise was set to 78kph on level ground) but I thought I'd ask in here in case any variable cam timing system or something that can cause similar noises.
The noise has been there as long as I can remember, but it made me wonder the other day when I had my windows down (been trying to limit AC use to save fuel unless it's *really* hot) and heard it reflecting off passing traffic; Wouldn't Toyota have noticed something that loud and done something about it in an engine design?
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My mom drives a 2002 Toyota Camry with a 2AZ-FE engine and 180,000 miles on it. Recently she started hearing a rattling sound coming from the engine. She says the sound does not go away after the engine has warmed up. I took a short video of the sound. How to go about diagnosing the issue.
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So I just put a new clutch in my 01 Mustang with the baby 3.8l engine and a 5 speed T5OD transmission. The car will shift through all gears fine when turned off, but when I start it in neutral and push the clutch in, it won't shift into any gear. I can start it in first gear though with the clutch pedal in and it moves forward VERY slowly. The trans has enough fluid, and I already pulled up on the pedal to self adjust. Not exactly sure what else could be wrong.
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I have run into a bit of a dilemma with my recently purchased 2010 Camry SE.
Whenever I shift into reverse, the car jerks or shakes for a moment. The engine light is also on.
Before, when I put the car into reverse,there'd also be a knock sound along with a vibration, but the engine light was never on.
Now today, when I put the car in reverse, the vibration/shake/jerk is VERY noticeable and the car almost rocks back and forth for a brief second when this happens and the Engine light stays on.
note that this only happens when I put the car into reverse.
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I recently purchased a 2000 Expy 5.4 with AWD. The issue is when in Drive it is only in 1st. I can manually shift it to 2nd. If I get it up to 40 and shift it back to drive it just reeves if I am going 30 and do that it throws it back in 1st.
So I searched a lot of the forums, I asked the previous owner some questions. Been 80 to 90k since the last tranny fluid change. Said he tighten the shift cable when it first noticed it was not shifting right and then it started to shift hard (squeal the tires). I ordered a rebuilt valve body assembly, came with plate, solenoid, accumulator and valve body. The supplier indicated this was the fix for my symptoms.
I dropped the pan. A bolt from the solenoid was in the pan. No magnet. The oil smelled more like axle grease, but did not really see signs of metal sludge in the pan or filter. Dropped all the components, yeah that accumulator plate is not for the faint of heart, I found all the rubber fortunately.
I found a couple decent pictures showing where they go in the tranny, the plate pictures were missing to many of the 'other' holes to use that as a guide. I saw a comment to use petroleum jelly to hold in place, I used that trick and it seemed to work. Put everything back together, torqued all the valve body nuts and bolts to 8 ft lbs, figure that is approx. 96 inch lbs and in the 80 -100 recommendation, new filter. Added 8 qts of oil back into the pan.
With it still on the stands started it up and went thru the gears down and up stopping in each one. Set it down and went for a test drive. Same exact behavior. Drive is first, can manually upshift to 2nd, put back in Drive at a slow speed and it goes to first, at a high speed it acts like it is in neutral. What I missed, do I have a clutch problem, or ?????
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I have 2002 camry 4 cylinder and the car currently has about 300,000 Km on it.
i noticed there is clicking sound in the engine.
Here is the video : [URL] .....
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I just got done putting the head back together after time sert repair on the 10 head bolts and after the initial start up and warm up I drove it outside and within 5 minutes the oil pressure light came on. I did something stupid afterwards but being that it's nighttime already I thought it would be fun to TURN ON THE ENGINE AND REMOVE THE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH TO ZZCHECK PRESSURE. Well it sprayed 2 feet in every direction until I managed to put it back. Cannot tell the psi but lots of pressure for idle. Oil is traveling places. I used compressed air on the switch put it back but still red light of death. The car drives fine no noise.
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I have the 2002 V6 camry and I want to replace the PVC valve. I read through the FYI/stickies, and I can see exactly how to do it on the 4 cylinder engine, are there any instructions for the 6 cylinder engine, I just want to make sure I do the right thing?
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Well, I've been getting a flashing OD light, so doing some research, led me to replace the shift solenoid. I did just that and have yet again the same P0741 code... The truck seems to shift normal but will randomly throw the code and then will not go into Overdrive as well as shift very hard into all gear. Where to look next?
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