Camry :: 2002 - Left Rear Power Window Stuck In Down Position
Aug 1, 2013
My left rear window is stuck in the down position. I thought the motor was burnt out because it was very hot, so I got a new one and replaced it and the symptom was the same. So I plugged the old "bad" motor into the harness and when I turn the key on it starts spinning, which would explain why it was so hot when I took it out. I'm guessing I've got a bad relay or something but where do I look now?
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2011 Santa Fe limited fwd
Bought as 6 month old demo in 2011 and from day one rear driver side power window has gone up and down slower than other three windows. Going up decidedly worse. My fault for not having it looked at while still under warranty.
Behavior the same using either driver's switch or the rear switch.
Well, now it occasionally gets stuck in down position. Neither switch works. But, if I press switch and pull up on window I can eventually get it to close.
I looked at other posts and saw no clear solution for this intermittent problem.
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My darling wife just called me and told me that one of the people that she was transporting in our egg this afternoon pulled up the passenger-side rear sunshade and hooked it on the clips at the top. Then apparently he just rested his arm on the ledge and they heard some sort of "pop" noise. Then, when he unhooked the sun shade to retract it back into the door it wouldn't pull back and retract so it's stuck in the "open" position. I'm guessing it's a simple matter of popping off the door skin and resetting something that's popped/snapped off.
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My wife's 2006 Camry left rear power window motor is bad.
I already checked the plug and there is voltage when I use the switch.
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In May the driver's side window mechanism (motor + "window regulator" are the primary parts) self destructed on my 2002 Hyundai Accent and left the window stuck in the down position. Since the car only has 35,000 miles on it, and since I live in a cold climate and didn't lower the windows much, I concluded it was a manufacturing failure.
So rather than spend about $700 to have the mechanism redone, I elected for 1/10 as much money to have a body shop remove the mechanism and wedge up the window in the up position permanently with blocks and screws. Since I was told by a couple of mechanics that this type of failure occurs in other vehicles, I was still sticking by Hyundai and planning to buy another one 3-5 years from now.
But I have been forced to change my plans. Today (in September) the passenger side window mechanism self destructed and, once again, left the window stuck in the down position! Naturally, I am going to have the same solution applied to the passenger side window now. As a result of this (and an unbelievable brake problem that I don't have time to get into) I have been forced to change my mind and can no longer support Hyundai.
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The "60" portion of my 60/40 rear seat will not go back to the regular seat back position. I have been told by a local VW dealership that the center seat belt mechinism is locked and is preventing the seat back from going back up.
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My left rear window motor has not worked for several years. Suddenly several weeks ago the window just dropped. I knew the regulator had failed so I replaced the regulator and the window still was not working up or down. I ran 12 volts to the new motor and it works . I removed the master switch and disassembled and cleaned up still nothing. Ordered new master switch still nothing. All other windows work. Checked power coming out of the switch and it is there. Tried testing current at the motor plug and only get power on one leg. The confusing thing is that the wires that have power with the switch on up and down are not the same color at the rear door making me think the wires go elsewhere before going to the back door.
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My rear windows, driver's side mostly was stuck...on and off, mostly off...since I bought Kitacamry 2 years ago, and discovered this...(for search engine users the title identifies potential sources for the problem)...
The windows were so snug that they stuck to the rubber if not used much, and here in south Florida they're hardly used, and often would not roll down...sometimes they would but not always...dealers thought it was the motor, or the regulator or the switch...and who could blame them?
I've discovered that it's not the regulator, and that the motor was just not strong enough to "break the seal" of the rubber.
I recently had a regulator repaired (a screw was loose) and noticed that the shop sprayed the rubber with silicone and that made the window glide much more smoothly...soooo....
I sprayed the other windows' rubber seals...and WOW....all open and glide down and up smooth as silk...If your windows are stuck....give silicone spray a shot...
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I am having trouble keeping the roof spoiler stuck to the rear window.
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I am speaking on behalf of my Mother who just purchased a 07 Santa Fe, a long story short my niece in the rear passenger seat attempted to put the window down while my Mother attempted to put the window up at the same time. Now the window is stuck down. We have owned the car less then a week. I was thumbing through the Owners manual and it specifically states something in there about "Do not attempt to move the window in opposite directions at the same time" So it is only my assumption that this is what has happened. The door control does not work and the Drivers control doesn't work on that specific window but works on the others. I checked the relays and fuses for the power windows and they looked fine. I have never seen anything about moving a window up and down simultaneously causing issues in any other car I have owned is this a hyundai deal?
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2010 Explorer XLT. The left rear power window lowers, but does not raise back up with the driver's master control switch (the 4 switch control on the driver's door). It does, however, lower and raise fine with the single switch on it's own rear door. Thinking it was a bad master switch module on the driver's door, I replaced it and the same thing still happens - works fine with it's own single switch but will only lower and not raise with the driver's door switch. All the other windows work fine. This has me totally stumped.
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We have a "new" 2010 F150 with factory sunroof & power sliding rear window. Well like the post title says, it'll open but not close.
I took apart the switch & cleaned the contacts - it all looks and fits together as it should. I went ahead and removed the cables controlling the window slider frame to close it. I'm guessing the motor is somewhere behind the back seats?
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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I have a 2002 Chevy Malibu. The passenger rear power window wont go up or down. Other windows are fine. I push the buttons from the rear door and the main control from the drivers door and nothing happens. I don't hear the window motor or anything going on while I push those buttons. I opened up the door panel and window regulator and motor seem fine. Connectors seem fine also.
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I have a power window issue with my 2002 civic with about 120K miles on it. this has happened intermittently over the last 2-3 years but now it's not fixing itself.
The other day, I had opened all the windows while driving. When I got to my destination and wanted to put them all back up, the driver's side rear window did not go up. Neither the driver's seat/master switch nor the rear door switch did anything. No noise from the window at all when activating either switch. I checked the power window relay fuse under the dash and it is fine. If I try to pull the window up, that doesn't work either.
In the past when this has happened, I typically would just pray for dry weather and wait a few days, and it would eventually work again on its own. I seem to recall that shutting the rear or driver's door a few times might have worked a little too. I have a vague memory from a few years ago that it may have also happened (the same exact problem) with the passenger side rear window, but i can't be 100% in my recollection of that.
I don't drive the car a lot, but i'd like to not have a sheet of plastic taped around the window, it looks pretty junky. I don't really need the rear window to be fully functional (though that would be great) - i would be content to get it into the up position and then never open it again.
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Ok on my 07 camry se, my right front passenger window rattles when in the up position. I noticed after the car has been sitting for awhile, that it's quiet but when I decide to open the window and then close it it starts to rattle. Now this happens when driving over bumps or have the music turned up.
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This morning on my way to work it was quite cold (~2 degrees F) and my car had some snow left on it from yesterday's snowstorm. I warmed the car up and had the rear defroster on.
When I went to use the rear wiper to clear some snow it got stuck in the down position and won't work. I tried manually clearing any snow and now the rear window is clear but the blade still won't move. I turned it on and off several times and nothing. I turned the car off and on again and still nothing.
Is it possible the motor is fried? This is a 2010 RX with ~68k miles.
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I've recently purchased an 02 Envoy from an auction. There are a couple of issues. The main one started last night. While at the store I put the truck in park and turn off the ignition. The ignition will not go into the lock position. I messed with the key and go it to turn off. Then started the truck to leave and couldn't put the truck in gear. I messed with the shifter and was able to put into gear.
At that point the gear shifter would move from park to reverse without me pushing the break pedal. I drove home and could not turn the key all of the way off again. Moved gear selector from 1st to Park a few times and then was able to remove the key. I restarted the truck and could not move the gear selector again; however I was able to remove the key easily.
I am leaning towards replacing the "Neutral Safety Switch" on the tranny but with my symptoms, I've seen brake light switch, ignition, and solenoid at gear shift selection.
Back up lights do not work either. Since I purchased the truck, I've replaced,
-Battery
-Ignition Coil
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Put the driver side rear seat down and now it won't come back up. It feels as though the latch isn't connected yet I can see the cable wrapped on it still. Need to tear into it... do the backs of the seats pop off?
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Toyota camry SE 2012. The sunroof is stuck on the open position. It is fully open and the motor does not make any noise. The fuse is ok. Nothing seems stuck on the track just from a quick glance. I am hoping to find a way to manually close it if it is possible.
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My driver' side window had been making a thunk sound when first lowered from the full closed position for the last 6 months. I opened the door and couldn't see anything wrong. Now it won't go down at all, although I can hear it seem to try when I push the button. The motor is likely shot or some sort of other problem? It is a 20 yr old car and starting to drink oil, so I want to try to fix if possible cheaply.
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