Camry :: 2002 LE - Loud Sound From Engine When Driving For 200 Miles Continuously
Apr 13, 2014
I have Camry 2002 LE which has 110000 miles on it. After last winter in Pittsburgh, first time I drove it for 200 miles continuously and all of sudden the engine started making very loud sound after 2-3 hrs drive and I had to pull it off.
When you give more gas, the sound increases even further. It is very load and unbearable. I called AAA and mechanic advised something wrong with engine and I cannot drive it anymore so have to tow it.
The sound is coming from engine and it is very very load. I will take it to mechanic tomorrow but what would have gone wrong. Is it the end of my car life?
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I have a 1999 Toyota Camry 2.2 4cyl with 220K+ miles.
I was driving on the freeway when I heard a loud "POP" and rat-tat-tat cracking sound from my engine. I managed to pull over on the road where the car rolled to a stop. I tried to start up the car and the starter cranked, but the engine wouldn't start.
I thought it might be a broken timing belt since a similar situation happened to a family member (who was driving another Camry) a couple of years ago, and we were able to fix the car by changing the worn down timing belt. So today I spent all day taking things apart and finally got to the timing belt, but to my surprise, the belt looks completely fine.
I fear I might've actually blown the engine but don't know how to diagnose this.
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@75000 miles my first check engine light. Here are my symptoms......
~After i shut the car off the fan keeps on blowing at a very high rate as if the car is over heating, its currently 45-50 degrees.
~On cold morning when i start the car up and turn the steering wheel I hear a very loud whining sound, but after driving for about 20 min and the car has warmed up the sound goes away.
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I bought a 2005 Camry LE 2.4 4 cylinder. It was rather loud while driving, but especially while accelerating. It had error code P0420 from the beginning. It had a completely broken torque strut which I eventually replaced. Afterward since it toned down the kicking from the engine, I was able to notice that I could feel and hear the engine kicking like a cylinder misfiring. The computer gave me error code P0353 (Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction) consistently, and only a couple of times gave me error code P0500 (Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction) which went away.
I swapped the ignition coil and spark plugs around but the error code would persist on the same cylinder. The spark plugs didn't look particularly worn but I'm not experienced on what bad plugs look like. The codes persisted still, but later on P0353 went away, and the obvious kicking stopped but it still ran with a lack of power and hesitating on acceleration along with a strong smell of fuel in the exhaust. I measured the resistance of each fuel injector and all measured the same. I removed and flushed each of them with cleaner, but same situation.
What do you think? I don't get the bad cylinder code anymore but something is clearly wrong. Bad fuel injector? Bad wiring harness? Bad compression or head gasket (maybe from the movement of the engine while the torque strut was bad)? Hopefully not the computer... And could the loud noise be related to this problem or is that probably just a cracked exhaust from when the torque strut was allowing engine movement?
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I've a loud squeaking sound coming from the front of the engine on cold start. This only happens when I start the engine after overnight parking . There are no squeaks when the engine is warmed up or when I start up with a warm engine.
I'm driving an 07 Camry and live in a region with hot tropical weather.
Video link to the sound [URL] ....
What could be the probable cause of the this and how do I rectify it?
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I'm the loudest Prius in CT right now. My brakes doing that loud scraping sound. Is it normal to need brakes this soon?
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I've got an 02 Camry with the 2.4l 4, it's got a whistling sound from the engine that isn't ground-speed or engine-speed dependent, it's triggered by specific throttle positions...
Because of this, I'm 99.9% sure it's simply air whistling over the throttle plate at certain angles (my old 88 ford station wagon's throttle screamed like a banshee when the cruise was set to 78kph on level ground) but I thought I'd ask in here in case any variable cam timing system or something that can cause similar noises.
The noise has been there as long as I can remember, but it made me wonder the other day when I had my windows down (been trying to limit AC use to save fuel unless it's *really* hot) and heard it reflecting off passing traffic; Wouldn't Toyota have noticed something that loud and done something about it in an engine design?
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I have about 200k on my forester. Friday when I was leaving work I cranked it up and it made a loud knocking sort of sound. I drove it home (about 15 miles) and on the way the sound lessened. It was louder when the car was idling but she made it home ok. Next day, started the car and it happened again. Not more than 50 feet up the road we stopped at a stop sign and it sounded like a semi was starting up around the corner. Much to my dismay it was not a semi but my own car. Engine shut off. We pushed it back to the house and tried to check it out the next day. This time, we started it, didn't go anywhere, and within 30 seconds it turned off. Same loud knocking sort of sound. The confusing part is that all of this happened within two days. There was no gentle sound leading up to it for a few weeks or even a few days. Knocked on Friday, shut off on Saturday. What could be going on?
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I have 2002 camry 4 cylinder and the car currently has about 300,000 Km on it.
i noticed there is clicking sound in the engine.
Here is the video : [URL] .....
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I have a 2002 v6 Camry with over 270k on it. Today the Check engine light came on while driving on the freeway. When I got home I used my scan tool and it gave me the following codes.
P0128, P0440, P0446 and P0440, P0441, P0446 pending.
I understand that the 128 has to do with coolant temp and that the other codes are evap system related.
What I'm trying to figure out is what might have caused them to all occur at the same time. I know once with my 98 Camry it threw a P0125 which had to do with coolant temp issues but it also threw several other codes for a bad 02 sensor and the 125 was just a false code (replaced the 02 sensors and they went away). If this 128 is possibly a false code or if I also have a bad thermostat/sensor on top of an evap system issue.
Also. coolant level is good and I checked the gas cap and insured it was on tight, reset the codes and am waiting to see what comes back.
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2002 Camry 4 Cylinder. 140 K miles
I am pretty sure the oil leak I spotted is from the oil pan gasket. (Interestingly I searched and didn't find many posts about this, that makes me wonder if this is not a typical issue.)
Is there anything that blocks removal? Does it just drop out after undoing the bolts?
Also can I get the felpro gasket? Do I need any sealant?
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I have 2002 camry 4 cylinders and has 175,000 miles. I was driving on the freeway and suddenly I felt a jerky motion and check engine light came on. When I stopped at light the car began to vibrate and when started driving at low speeds it got me home. Admittedly I had put lot of hard miles on the car in past 6 months and I was lazy in getting oil changed in time. It might have been 7000 miles since oil chg. I took the car to local oil change place they did not mention anything about engine but they said my transmission oil was dark and burnt. They said I should flush and replace. I agreed and tech said he had to do second flush as oil was still dark. After second flush, he said its little bit better.
I was hoping this would solve my problem but unfortunately no. Car was still vibrating and when i drove at slow speed it was driving but as soon as I tried to accelerate the car lost power. Check engine light has been on since the incident at freeway, but now check oil light and battery sign came on. The power steering lost power. I had to park the car and restarted, as long as I drove very slowly it would drive but if I tried to accelerate where the rpm went from 1 or to next level car would loose power with warning lights on. I had recently replaced fuel pump, filter and any repair which was suggested to me. Admittedly I have not done timing chain or belt.
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Mr Squeaky is a 2003 Subaru Legacy
Here are the signs and symptoms that my car wants to die. The car makes sound like grinding metal after I drive it for a good 10-15 miles. It starts up when I turn to the right. It does not seem to matter how slight the turn to the right is but it seems to not start up until I head in that direction a little bit. Once it gets going, it does not stop, and squeals incessantly. I can make it stop by putting my foot on the brakes but the noise almost always starts right back up as soon as I take my foot off the brake. Speed of travel seems to have no effect on this noise. If I park my car for 5 min and then drive away, again the noise normally goes away. My heat gauge never goes into the oh crap zone, and my mechanics swear my brakes are good.
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I have an 09 camry se 4cyl with 165k. I believe the service interval on the plugs is 100k. However, 75% of my miles are from highway driving. Plainly put, the car still drives like brand spankin new and get gets 30mpg hwy. This tells me the plugs are doing their job just fine. What concerns would you have if any?
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I just popped my hood (looking at the engine and condition after ~1000 miles). I noticed the engine was noticeably hot - I drove 28 miles home on my evening commute. 2 hours later the engine is still hot! I'm not worried, just a bit surpised given it is ~55 degrees right now and 2 hours later.
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I own a 2002 Passat 1.8T. The oil pressure light came on a few weeks ago and I took it in to be looked at. The oil pressure at idle and at 2000 rpm's was fine so they thought it might be the Oil Pressure Sender. Picked up the car and lo and behold, the light continued to come on. Took it back for service. This time the oil pressure levels were lower than spec so, they changed the Oil Pump, tested the pressure and all checked out to be within spec. 15 miles into my drive home, the light was on again. Not sure what to look at now. What to do next?
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Had the two batteries disconnected on the 2002 Excursion (7.3). Once reconnected, the door actuators all repeatedly lock. They all click every 5 - 10 seconds. Sometimes they click every second for about 5 seconds.
I can't actuate ANY of the door locks on the truck, the switches seem dead. Also, the "door open" LED in the dash is lit. The "THEFT" light is blinking fast as well.
I've disconnected the batteries again several times to see if I can reset whatever is going on. I am keeping a spare key in my pocket because I will get locked out otherwise.
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Why does my Volvo 850 (1994) continue to shut off? The fuel pump and filter have been changed as well as having the gas tank cleaned. Car runs good but occasionally shuts down while driving on highway and local driving.
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It seems the car has developed a loud "clunk sound" during some "spirited" driving. It is also felt near my left foot when this happens. It will happen, lets say, once during a right turn. Then, if a left turn is soon followed in the same "spirited" manner, another clunk will happen. There may be a less loud clunk once in a while during a quick take-off from a light. Is something shifting around? Is this cause for immediate action or can I wait until my 10k service in about a month?
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I bought my 2002 Excursion 6.8L about 2yrs ago, no less than a week of having it I started to have all sorts of problems. (insert nagging wife here) the biggest of problems was the darn thing started to run very rough and the ABS light cont to flash, then the truck just died (engine stopped, EXTREMELY scary in a intersection) I replaced the VSS in the rear diff.. acted a little better for a while then..no luck. I called around to every ford dealer in town. I need more break light fluid to there isn't enough grease on my wobbler pin?
So I got the initiative to simplify what I was seeing and hearing. I found that there was an OSS sensor on the tail of the transmission...drove my very intense self up to the dealership and bought myself a new OSS sensor. I got home and replaced it, then I drove my truck under the largest shade tree I could find and replaced all the coils and spark plugs. (Insert bloody knuckles and curse words here) Job Done. I thought to myself if this doesn't fix it then I don't know what to do. (I couldn't sell it)...again the point being...the truck has never ran better, gas mileage has doubled and the true power of the v10 has been restored. I found 4 different types of spark plugs in it and 3 different types of coils...?
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The seat belt warning indicator is flashing continuously when I am driving with my seat belt fastened. When I pull outward, lengthening just the shoulder harness, the light stops flashing. Letting go of the shoulder strap starts the light flashing again. Is there a sensor near the floor where the shoulder strap take up roller winds and unwinds the strap?
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