Camry :: 2002 LE V6 With Codes P1135 And P1155 - Replaced Sensors Still Fails
May 1, 2012
I have a 2002 Toyota Camry LE V6 with codes p1135 and p1155. Both sensors that are supposedly faulty have been replaced.
The new sensors are denso 234-9043 and 234-9047. I am confident that the second one was the right one replaced as both the new and the old had a little green marker(the location is near the firewall.) not 100% sure about the other one.
The sensors were brand new so I don't know what the problem is.
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02 SE. Had my CEL go on, so went to Autozone to pull my code. Well, ended up being codes:
P1155
Definition - Air/Fuel sensor heater circuit (bank1 sensor2)
Probable Cause:
- Open or short circuit condition
- Poor electrical condition
P1128
Definition - Throttle control motor lock
Probable Cause:
- Open or short circuit condition
- Poor electrical condition
P1150
Definition - Coolant path clog up for coolant heat storage system
Probable Cause:
- Clogged cooling system
- Failed water valve
- Failed CHS tank outlet temp sensor
The car is running fine as best I can tell. Maybe a stutter here and there, but I might be imagining it. Coolant isn't that old, and there are no starting / overheating / electrical issues present.
From what I've gathered, P1155 is O2 sensor and the other two reference the affected area. But....given that they all seem to reference some sort of electrical issue (the last coolant one sounds like it could be electrical), it makes me wonder if I have a short somewhere in my engine harness...maybe heat has corroded the wires somewhere. Sound logical at all?
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My 2002 camry 4cyl auto, jap built, with near 190k miles, check engine light just came on, P1135, has not replace any sensor since I own at 125k, 7 years ago, did noticed last 3 to 6 months, mileage drop to 25 or 26mpg average, used to be around 30+mpg, I thought it was change season for gasoline mix.
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So my 02 Camry V6 has the check engine light on. I had them scan at AutoZone. the codes that came up were P1130 and P1135. After reading some threads here, seems like it's the A/F sensor?
Just to confirm, there are two A/F sensors in the V6 model? I can see the front one easily but not the rear one. Need to identify which sensor needs replacement?
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Just got a P1135 Code on the 1MZ-FE 2002 Camry.
My code reader pulls it up as (no typo below) : AirCFuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction.
So I know it's a bad Air/Fuel sensor. Which one though? I replaced the rear sensor by the firewall about 6 months ago which fixed the check engine code (I don't remember the code). Would it make sense that the front one failed now or the back one failed again? Most of my research points me to a bad rear sensor however a lot of people also report that a code reader would report the sensor as "Bank 1 Sensor 1".
The rear sensor was replaced with a Denso 234-9042 Sensor.
I would play the replace and test game... however inspection is due within the month and after resetting the code, it usually takes about 50 miles to return. Being in college, 50 miles takes about 2 weeks.
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I have a 2002 Camry V6 US model. I need to replace the Oxygen Sensor that is on the front (beginning) of the Front Exhaust Pipe Assy, just before the other sensor which is on the curved part of the front exhaust.
When looking at the DENSO website, it lists two sensors BEFORE the catalytic convertor and two AFTER it. I don't see ANY sensors after the convertor(s), nor does the Toyota Camry shop service manual show them.
Are there only two or are there more than two? Also, what is bank 1 and bank 2? I'm assuming bank 1 is the front cylinders and bank two are the rear (towards the windshield).
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today I replaced the battery on our 2002 Camry SE 2.4l because it was incredibly slow to crank today...but it did crank. So i get a Duralast Gold to replace a Toyota TrueStart battery, and it started up fine. However, it was idling at 200-400 RPMs, so its already not right. So I drive it a quick mile or so, and when letting off the gas the RPMs drop to 200-400 while going down the street! Coming to a stop, it really wanted to stall out. Couple stops later, it did stall out, and the Check Engine light, Battery light, and Oil light all came on. Trying to restart it it cranked, started, but then immediately died. You know when you start it the RPM needle goes high and then comes down a bit? It does that, but the needle won't stop and it just goes to 0, and throws the Check Engine, battery, and oil light. I finally got it cranked, and all 3 previously mentioned lights are off when its running. It has done it one other time about 3 months ago when I disconnected the negative battery terminal for some work, and it did the same exact thing. It ended up just fixing itself, but obviously not since its rough starting and the problem came back the next time I disconnected the battery.
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Own a 2002 Camry 4 cyl with 186K, like it soooo much ,once a day I get something like a missed shift around 20 mph .
I notice that over 65 mph, the RPM's are higher than my other Camry: 65 mph 2450 RPM instead of 2300. 70 RPM 2700 RPM instead of 2450. 75 MPH 2900 RPM instead of 2700.
At 80 MPH drifts between 3000 - 3200 RPM instead of 2800. When idling in park, I heard a whining noise coming from the Trans. I was told it recently had the engine replaced.
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I've replaced the rear sensor and the two front ones on my 2002 Ltd, but the lights still on! It's driving me crazy...what now?
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I changed my dogbone mount over the weekend. Did not get a oem but got one from advance auto for 50 bucks. So I noticed a vibration when I'm in reverse or drive. I got some vids of the engine running. Could the cheap mount I got just be causing more vibration than the old one?? Which was cracked?
[URL].....
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The dealer tells me my batteries in my low tire sensors are bad. The low tire light on the dash won't go out. So I need to replace the TPMS sensors in my '06 type 5 Prius. I know I can pick them online much cheaper than at the dealer. My question is, is there some reprogramming that will need to be done. I'm assuming it will be some convoluted sequence with buttons on the dash similar to turning off the backup alarm, etc.
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I spent all day replacing my knock sensors and after getting everything back together now it wants to overheat. The thermostat is not that old before today there were no coolant problems.
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I recently replaced the spark plugs on my 2002 Camry SE V6 (Gen 5). Let me just say that it was INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to reach the rear 3 plugs as they sit underneath the intake manifold, way to the rear of the engine compartment. To reach those, I had to unplug some wires reaching on top of the engine, then loosen the intake manifold.
Along the way I broke a tiny air valve that sits underneath intake manifold, and replaced it right away, before starting the car.
When everything was put back together, the car started wonderfully, only to notice the engine light come on. I had the codes checked at the dealer and they indicated a malfunctioning Catalytic Converter and A/F Sensor and some other emissions stuff. Later that day, the VCS/TRAC OFF light came on as well. The service guy at the dealer said those typically come on together with the Check Engine light, which sounds like something he pulled out of somewhere!
The car drives well, no hesitation, no weird behavior, but has no traction control, naturally. While loosening the manifold I had to use a little force to flex it out of place. My guess is that it I may have yanked something out place: may be a wire issue, or a sensor.
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I replaced my knock sensors on 2004 5.4L and now it will not idle without me keeping foot on gas. Idles down to +- 450-500 rpms. If I hold down gas pedla seems to run smooth. What to check to fix this problem?
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I bought two new factory fresh speed sensors to replace the ones. So, after work tonight I get the car up on jack stands and replace both sensors in about 45 minutes. Get it off the jack stands, torque down the rims and reset the dash lights. Nice clean dash display with no warning lights.
I drive it down the street, nice speedometer display and then, after about 100 yards, the warning lights come on and the speedometer flickers from 22mph to 2 then 10 then 1 then zero. I drive it back home, check the sensors and the connections, reset the lights again, drive it down the street and, same story.
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I have a 2004 F150 5.4L 2WD auto. I had the cam phasers and timing cover done at the end of 2014 and the truck was great. Back in december, I parked the truck and when I started it the next morning, there was a horrible miss. I left it parked a month or two, then tried starting it up last week. Nothing.
So I had it towed to the shop. They found the starter was bad, and the only code it was throwing was P0341... Cam sensor bank 2. I had it towed back to my house, replaced the starter and the grounds and fired it up. It had the worst miss on the planet and died shortly after being started. I replaced both cam sensors, and now it starts right up and runs... but still has a bad miss.
I used my scanner and its still throwing A P0341 code almost instantly. It sounds like a bad miss that slightly gets better when you give it gas... but its not throwing any misfire codes or anything.
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The wifes camry all of a sudden tossed up CEL. Codes read P0100, P0110, and P0420. Car has about 125K miles, runs fine. I cleaned the MAF sensor with CRC cleaner just for that, pulled EFI fuse to reset, came back on immediately when started.
I was thinking of getting a used one from pull-a-part, but they only have 98 camrys at the moment. Any chance MAF is the same?
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This isnt my first vw but its my first vr6, its a 2000 gti glx, only showing codes for o2 sensors havent got a vag com yet only have a obd scanner. It idles fine and runs smooth until i get over quarter throttle then it starts hesitating like there isnt enough fuel or air...i know that the noob owner i bought it from cheaply put exhaust on it and i didnt see any o2 sensors but ive never known a car to not run correctly without them.
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Car details: 2002 Toyota Camry V6 3L LXE - 151k miles.
My car took a little longer than normal to start up one morning, but I attributed it to the especially cold weather. I didn't have any problems the following two or three mornings, but my car suddenly died in traffic as I came to a stop, as it had many times before. What made this incidence different in particular was that I didn't feel my car shake or shudder before it shut down. I simply looked down and the Check Engine, oil, and battery lights had all come on, and my power steering was gone.
I attempted, as usual, to restart my car, but the starter only sat and tried to turn over and nothing more. Once I gave it a little gas, it caught, but as soon as I let the engine idle, the RPM dropped to 0 and the engine died. I sat and kept my foot on the gas for a minute or so after I got the car started in hopes that the car would stay on - when I let up, it idled roughly close at a very low RPM for several seconds, shuddered, and then died.
I was unable to get out and under the hood to try the typical trick of unplugging the MAFS and plugging it back in again, so I'm not sure if this would have worked as it has before despite having been replaced. Actually, before I was able to do this again, wouldn't you know it? My starter died. My car started giving a grinding, choking noise when I tried to start it up again, so I simply had it towed to the mechanic.
The mechanic declared the starter dead, which is unusual given I just had it replaced several months ago (could just be a lemon, I guess), so I had it replaced and they said the car started and ran great afterwards. They could not replicate the problem (like previous times), the computer gave no codes.
I noticed after the starter choked, my odometer lost power and my clock reset.
Is it possible that it's some problem with the battery?
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Car: Toyota Camry 2002 .. Mileage: 150K
Symptom:Check Engine light went on a few days ago.
Checked codes and got these (3):
1) P0420
2) P1310 and
3) P0420 P ("Pending" ?)
I also checked I/M Readiness and got these suspicious-looking values:CAT: NOT RDYEVAP: NOT RDYO2S: NOT RDYH02S: NOT RDY
NOTE all the other I/M values were N/A
Researching the Codes, it sounded like Ignition, and possibly the O2 sensor on the Catalytic Convertor. I had just had some engine work done by the dealer -- actually, replaced spark plugs -- so I figured to go back and bitch him out for screwing up my car.
A few days later, before I could engage my Rage, I went back and re-scanned. First I noticed the CEL was now OFF. Scanning, I now I get "NO CODES", and all the I/M values are now N/A; No more "NOT RDY".
What do you all make of this? Should I be concerned now that the CEL is Off, and I get No Codes with a scan?Or maybe I should take it to AutoZone for their free CEL diagnosis -- would their machine be more thorough than mine (Autel MaxioScan 300)??
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I did a search on the CEL P0770 and P0765 codes and I find plenty in regards to the light on but every post I have seen, says the tranny is working fine. Not the case with mine. Tranny is slipping, and if you let it sit for 30 minutes or so, it will run fine then start surging and slipping. Got to where I couldn't get it to move at all. It says B, D E trans shift solenoid for the codes. I don't want to put in this new solenoid and have not fix the issue. Is my tranny toast? Seems electrical since it will work fine once it sits for a bit. Plus, with the OD disengaged, it seemed to work fine, but even then it was acting up? I bought it used with 140k and don't know if tranny was serviced or not. I think it has due to lots of oil change receipts etc from the past 4 years..
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