Our 2002 LE Camry master-cylinder reservoir is loose, at least with the engine not running. Is this normal? It moves about 1/4", side-to-side. With the engine running, the pedal almost goes to the floor, but I've been told that's normal. I'm not sure that it is, but my wife seems to get by with it that way. Our engine is 4cyl.
View 4 RepliesI've got an o2 camry with 150K that seems to be losing brake fluid from the "right" side of the reservoir. Which brake lines are supplied by the "right" half of the master cylinder reservoir? I have read that they could be diagonally piped.
View 14 RepliesI have a '99 Silverado 250 with a leak between the brake reservoir and the master cyl. Mechanics tell me there is no gasket. How can I get it to stop leaking?
View 12 RepliesEarly 70's Ford truck. The brake MC fluid is filled but not overfilled, and doesn't leak at all when the truck is parked. It can sit there for a month and never leak a drop, parked. But when I drive the truck, even just around the block, then park, and look inside the engine compartment immediately the brake MC is dripping brake fluid. It appears the leaking mode is by the fluid somehow jumping up and coming over the top edge of the MC when the truck is in motion or when the brakes are applied. All my diy'er years of replacing brake master cylinders on Ford Galaxies, VW Rabbits, Corollas, and this truck, I've never seen this kind of weird brake problem before. On this MC design it seems there's sort of a rubber baffle inside the lid of the MC, and that's present and accounted for.
View 17 RepliesI'm getting ready to work on a 2000 Pontiac Sunfire for a co-worker. They told me that brake fluid leaks out where the fluid reservoir attaches to the master cylinder. Could that be a bad master cylinder or something with the brake booster? It looks like there is a lot of sludge in the reservoir.
View 8 Repliesput new master cylinder and bled brakes in 1978 jeep cj5 and now fluid is being forced out the rear brake reservoir in the master cylinder, if lid is off there is about a 1inch fountain of fluid that shoots up.
View 7 Repliesmy 2000 f550 master cylinder reservoir plastic is cracked from vibration and it would be good to know if it can be replaced separately than having to purchase a new complete unit.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Accord with about 130k miles on it and the brakes don't have nearly the power that they used to. The pads and rotors are due for replacement but even then, the system is pretty weak. Would replacing the master cylinder? What about simply replacing the brake fluid (I doubt it has ever been changed)? And/or the calipers? The car is in great condition and I really like it so I don't mind investing some time and money to get more years out of it.
View 10 Repliesll, I changed out the master cylinder on my 2002 F-150, disk brakes front and back w/ ABS. Bleed all the air out and bench bleed the master cylinder. I have good pedal but the brake light will not go out.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 Camry LE with 214,000 miles on the clock, and this car has had needed maintenance pertaining to the braking system ever since I bought it in January. Let me give you some background on past issues/maintenance before I dive into my current issue.
During the test drive, the brake pedal felt extremely soft/spongy, having to travel a lot farther than any other car I've driven (even my father's full size pickup had stronger brakes). My dad dismissed it just being the way the car was. In hindsight I would've walked away or slept on it, but let's just say I was pressured into buying the car right away.
We took it to my trusted local mechanic a few days later for an overall inspection, and he said the front brakes/rotors needed to be replaced. He said the rear brakes were thin, but could be replaced later down the line. So we replaced the front ones, expecting it to have some improvement. In reality, the brake pedal force was still the same as before.
A few months later, after hearing faint squeaking coming from the rear brakes, the brake light started to illuminate intermittently. That's when we decided to replace the rear brakes/rotors. After we replaced the rear brakes, braking motion was dramatically improved, and I did not have to push the pedal very far to achieve adequate braking power. It was great,while it lasted.
It gradually started to go back to the way it was, which is really disappointing. After growing tired of the problems, I decided to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and it was practically at the minimum line! Figuring it was a brake line or master cylinder leak, we took it again to my mechanic to have him inspect the braking system. Much to everyone's surprise (including my mechanic), there were no leaks to be found and he told me to come back if it gets worse or the brake light comes on. HOWEVER, when I drove it home from the mechanic, the brakes felt the way they did when he put the rear rotors on. On the service record, it said he just looked for leaks and readjusted the rear rotors. This was about a month ago, or at 209,000 miles.
However, as before, the brakes slowly started to loose their "bite" again and sure enough, the master cylinder had lost fluid; albeit not as significant as before, but enough to require topping off. In addition, whenever I'm decelerating on the freeway (from let's say, 75-60 MPH), the wheel shakes as well. This wasn't really present before.
My patience is running thin with this car; we've easily spent half the value of the car on maintenance.
I am looking for a how to vid or resource on doing the job right. I purchased the complete replacement master cylinder from Napa. 2002 7.3 Powerstroke
View 3 RepliesThere is an air leak and hissing sound at the connection of the master cylinder to the brake booster. Brake pedal travels nearly to the floorboard before engaging the brake. What is the problem and how can I fix it myself? (Special note: the brake fluid was very low and is now topped off to the maximum level . Adding the brake fluid caused very little change to the brake pedal travel.)
View 5 RepliesI own a 2002 Camry XLE 4-cylinder with about 95,000 miles which is in excellent condition and well-maintained. Recently I began to hear a rattle, tapping or knocking sound apparently from the passenger side of the engine compartment (passengers agree with apparent location). It almost sounds like engine knocking, but the times it happens seem to rule that out. It could be some metal vibrating against something, but I can't hear it when I'm under the hood, and nothing appears loose. I've taken it to my trusted independent mechanic, but he couldn't duplicate the sound driving for 15-20 minutes on the freeway or see anything wrong when put on a lift. The sound doesn't occur all the time, of course; that'd be too easy.
The noise begins:
-after I've been driving 15 minutes or more
-after the car gets above 45-50 MPH, but when the noise finally begins, it will then occur down to as low as 30 MPH.
Last weekend I drove 1000 miles roundtrip on the freeway at 65-80 MPH; it didn't begin for 30 minutes, but continued most of the way to my destination (5.5 more hours), though it did seem to stop a few times. This week, my 20 minute drive to work, which has about 10 minutes on the freeway at 65, has not caused the noise to happen once.
Characteristics of the problem:
-the noise is not related to RPM; once it begins, it is about the same frequency and volume at 30 MPH as at 80 MPH
-it doesn't occur when in park or neutral and idling, even if the engine is revved, and even if the noise was just occurring on the freeway moments before
-it doesn't change when running over rough pavement or in turns
-it doesn't change when regular gas is replaced with premium (tried this last week to rule out engine knock, though the lack of RPM affecting it probably ruled that out already).
So it seems like it may be related to the speed of the car and perhaps the temperature of the engine or compartment. The hood latch appears to be holding tight with no play, the strut mounts were replaced 10K ago, and the wheel bearings check out fine.
2002 camry: my boyfriend just told me he accidentally added power steering fluid to the brake reservoir a couple monthes ago....while i floored it on highway, i only reached 40, when let off gas, car came to a quick stop. later i jacked up rear and was able to turn back tires to rule out e-brake being stuck,when car is in nuetral and pushed (forward or backward) it comes to a stop whithin a foot or so ( it seemed like the brakes were being depressed) possible transmission or brake issue?
View 2 RepliesI recently changed my timing chain on my 2002 Camry XLE and now it won't start. I have done this twice before on different camrys but it is the first time this happens. I don't have spark on cyl 2 and 4. I checked all connections from the ignition coils to the ECM, no opens or shorts. All ignition grounds are good also. I check the continuity from the Crank and Cam sensors to the ECM and they are good. The timing chain was put in like the repair manual says. There is fuel pressure and good battery voltage so I am now stuck.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2011 SE I4 with roughly 12k on it. Here's my problem: The past few days, I've been smelling something sweet coming out of my AC. I thought nothing much of it until today, when I noticed that my coolant/antifreeze reservoir level was slightly below the low "L" point with the engine cold. I am not sure if this means that I have a leak or something more serious? Is there something that I can do to try and figure out what the hell is wrong? My car is still under warranty, is this something that the dealership should look into? Will there be a cost for that?
View 7 RepliesStuck at Starbucks at the moment waiting for my car to get towed. Thought I would post here to get some feedback.
I have a 2002 4 cylinder Camry that is refusing to start. The battery seems OK as all the lights are on. The car is not turning over either (cranking).
The car has had no issues (touch wood) since I got it at 50k miles. It is currently at 100k miles.
I believe the issue is with the starter. When I started the car earlier today, I noticed it started a little differently then before. It took a second or two longer to start.
Does the problem can be a starter? I am getting the car towed to my house in about an hour.
I have a 2002 Camry, 2.4 with 155k miles.
This morning I was going to work and was making a lane change and hit the accelerator quite aggressively. Suddenly my engine started to run really rough and shook the car and the check engine light started flashing.
I checked the engine code and its giving me a P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire warning.
I have read that there can be various reasons but I figured since this problem is consistent its not a vacuum issue? Could it just be a bad plug? I don't have the tools to fix it, I am going to get them soon to pull the plugs and inspect then, and will replace them anyway since I don't think they have ever been replaced.
So i have a 2002 camry LE 4 cylinder, it has about 173000 miles on it. It belonged to my dad and I bought it off him in June. My dad has always been religious about getting it serviced so it's not like the car is on its last legs or anything. I've driven the car myself probably for 40-50k of those miles while I was living with him, and occasionally when he goes on vacation. The car would always run smooth and other than worn brakes was in tip top condition for a car with its age and mileage.
Anyway, I went to get my oil changed on the 5th. Got out and the car felt zippy and all that good stuff. One week later, I'm parking at home after running errands. As I pull into the spot I notice some faint white smoke coming from under the hood. I pop the hood and see the smoke coming from behind the radiator. No real one spot that the smoke is coming from, but emanating from the middle, behind the radiator up towards the top. I checked the coolant reservoir as my girlfriends old car used to go through periodic overheating due to her never taking care of it, and I'd usually fill it up and make sure the radiator was full and that would be that.
So the reservoir is basically bone dry, I add coolant to the line and I check the radiator. The coolant in the radiator is filled to the top when I go to fill it. I take the car out later that night and it's still smoking slightly. The smoke doesn't start until the car's been running for about 10 minutes or so, which I'm guessing is how long it takes for the underhood components to warm up enough to vaporize the liquids in there. The temperature gauge is always smack dab in the middle while I'm driving and the car is smoking. The smoke is white and there's not a ton of it.
Monday I check the reservoir tank and it's empty again, I refill it and there's still smoke after 10 minutes. Luckily, I work 10 minutes away so I'm just getting to work/home when the smoke starts. I'm planning on taking it in to a radiator specialist on Saturday morning but curious what the community thinks it might be. I'm totally car ignorant so a self repair is kind of out of the question.
I'm having an issue with a 2008 Passat 2.0T. Engine ran rough one day and check engine light came on! I get the VagCom out, scan the ECU and get misfire on cylinder #2 and #4. Car has 109 000km. Plugs were never changed so I order some new OE Bosch platinum iridium plugs. Go for test drive after having change the plugs and I still get misfire on both cylinder number 2 and 4.
I know coil on plug are prone to be weak on those engines so I go ahead and order 4 new coils which are pretty low cost which is good. Once install on the car I go again on a test drive. car ran really smooth and no check engine light came on. I said fine! I fixed the problem only to discover the day after that the CEL decide to come back on I scan again and this time only get misfire on cyl #2 with fault frequency of 39.
I suspect my injector to be bad but before I decide to remove the intake manifold and spend another 2-300$ in parts. Any way to test my injector with VagCom in order to see if that really is my problem. Also heard the PCV could be a problem but i hardly doubt it would throw a fauly code on just one cylinder.
Which line goes to front brakes and which to rear from the master cylinder?
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