Camry :: 2002 LE - After Filling The Tank Car Wouldn't Start
Dec 12, 2014
I have a problem with the starting system on my 2002 Camry LE 4-cylinder. My problem started a few weeks ago. I drove it to the store, about five miles away, did my shopping, got back in the car, started it up and drove back toward home but stopped again to get gasoline. After filling the tank, the car wouldn't start. I turned the key but nothing happened. No noise, nothing. The starter motor wasn't turning over the engine. Thinking back, when I started my trip, the starting seemed a little weak but the car was sitting for a few days and it was cold out so I didn't make too much of that symptom.
So over the next half an hour, I tried starting it a few more times but got nothing but silence. So I called for a tow and $150 later I had my car back home. I put a load tester on the battery and it checked out fine. So I eliminated that part of the starting system being a problem. The next day, just out of curiosity, I tried starting it again and it fired up right away. The motor ran fine and I let it warm up for a while but I didn't go anywhere. I repeated this same procedure a few times over the past couple of weeks and each time the motor started up but again, I didn't chance going anywhere. However since I had some other maintenance projects I needed to get done on it and my wife has a 2014 Camry, having the 2002 out of service was inconvenient, but not an emergency.
So yesterday, with my maintenance projects done, I took the 2002 for a little test ride. Once again, it started up without a problem and I took my ride around the block. When I got home, I shut the motor off and went inside to grab a few tools. I came back outside, tried starting up the motor and got nothing. No start and no sound but the slight hum of the electric fuel pump. I tried a few more times with no success and then gave up for the evening. This morning, right before taking the other car to work, I tried starting it again just out of curiosity and once again, the motor fired right away. So this sequence of events tells me that something in the starting system is being impacted by heat when the motor is warm and when things cool down, they're fine.....at least for now.
I'm thinking the solenoid-starter may be going because I've had starters on other vehicles affected by heat before.
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98 Camry 3.0 V6 . Gas kicking back when filling tank. Was told it's an easy fix. That a line that makes the air escape is clogged. But I can't seem to find the canister or where the line is. If i pump it really slow it will go in steady.
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Every time I go to fill up my gas tank it has trouble starting. It doesn't matter whether I use 91 89 or some other premium fuel. I have to crank it 4-6 times for about 6 seconds each time and then at the end of the last crank it will barely start. It will idle kinda rough for about 10 seconds and then until I go to fill up the gas tank it will run flawlessly, 27-31 mpg depending on driving style, starts up right away with out filling up the tank. The only other issue I have is an "emissions workshop" every time I start the car but I think that's just because of a bad check valve the I'm throwing a code for.
The car in question : VR6T 4 door 1996 golf
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For several years my husbands car "chugs" and barely starts after filling up at the gas station. Once it starts it is good to go but it takes many cranks and pumping of the peddle to get it going. If you put gas in it with a gas can it doesn't have the problem so guess it may have to do with the pressure of gas going in from the pump?!. We have spent over 1500.00 when it first started to no avail...
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Background: My 02 camry (155k) ran great but I noticed grease/oil on the front of the engine so I had a local mechanic take a look. He replaced the front valve cover gasket, timing belt, and while he was in there, the water pump. He made me take it to the dealer to reset/recalibrate the stability control sensor because after disconnecting the battery to perform the work my "VSC", "trac off" and check engine lights were on. I got it back along with a list of work they thought I needed (replace the rear valve cover gasket, dog bone engine mount, and a bunch of bs I don't need).
Problem: Quickly my check engine light is back on. I fill up gas and I can't get it to turn over. The owner of the shop gets it to turn over by gassing it a bunch while turning the key. My mechanic later tells me the check engine light is due to a bum gas cap. He replaces that and the dog bone mount. Next day check engine is back on AND the next time I get gas the same thing happens - it won't turn over until I gas it, then it turns over and stalls a few times until I really gas it and it turns over and takes. Every other time I try to start the car it turns over first try. Both times I filled up I wasn't close to running out of gas or anything. I don't think the gas cap or the fuel injectors went bad coincidentally the same day the dude had his hands in the engine.
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My wife's 2007 Accent started having starting problems right after filling the tank. Is this an EVAP canister problem?
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I have a hyundai accent, 2002, I have the typical hard to start when filling up the tank. My understanding is there are 2 Fuel Vapor Purge Valves, one in the rear next to the charcoal canister, the other is in the engine compartment attached to the intake manifold - is that correct?
Which purge valve is the culprit to the hard start after fueling the car? Why can I only find the rear purge valve when looking for parts - is the one up front a dealer only part?
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We had a Hyundai with the same problem. Every time my nephew fills the tank when he goes to start it he has to gun the engine and it takes several attempts to start. Mechanic changed some fitting but it didn't do the trick. Only happens after tank is filled. Other than that car runs fine. Only 45k miles.
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I have a 2014 camry SE 2.5 with 66.000 miles on it and been having issues since the warranty expired..... What it could be? Cleaned the maf sensor and still no luck and every time i fill the gas tank it won't start takes a while.
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I have a 2002 Camry that has been having a tough time starting in the mornings over the last couple weeks. Today I went to start the car and it wouldn't turn over at all. My battery is pretty old, so I just presumed this was the issue. I went and got a new battery and put it in, but still not starting. In fact, the car isn't even turning over at all (no clicking sound that I associate with lack of voltage from the battery). The car just makes a faint "whinning" noise.
All the electronics/lights in the car are working and when I turn the car on the check engine light, abs light, etc turn on. Doing a little searching online, I found that when I turn the ignition from "on" to "start" the headlights should dim and all of the interior lights (check engine, ABS, etc) should go off. They are not going off or dimming, but I'm not sure exactly what this is indicative of? Is this lack of headlight dimming/interior lights going off a tell-tale sign of something ("that is for sure the starter")?
Should I pull the starter and take it in to an Auto Zone type shop for testing, or is there something else I should be looking at first?
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Just bought a used but in pretty decent shape, 2002 Santa Fe, with 6 cylinder engine, 112K miles. I read the post about the vehicle that was hard to start after filling up - but this one is hard to start all the time - every time. Cranks fine, but once cranking, have to pump the gas pedal several times, and then it chugs just a second and then starts running. Slilght smell of gas if the hood is up, just after starting. Once running however, it runs perfectly on city and hwy. I have one mech that tells me "definitely the fuel pump" and another that tells me "definitely the purge valve" - this of course just from me describing the conditions, they have not actually seen it.
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Yesterday I drove my mom's 02 explorer to the gas station to fill it for her. After filling, I started it. It ran for several seconds and then died. It wouldn't start right away, so I let sit for a half hour, and then it started and I drove it 10 miles home. What is going on?
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My wife drives a 2002 Golf 2.0L with about 214k on it at the moment. It runs really well and I'd like to keep it that way. Last week she told me that the car wouldn't start sometimes and that she would hear a buzzing noise when she turned the key. If she turned the key off and then on again the car would start. The problem was occurring more consistently as time went by and sometimes she would have to try to start the car four or five times.
I took a look at the car and her description was correct. The 53 relay under the dash was buzzing once the clutch was depressed and the key was turned, but the car wouldn't start. I took out the relay and put it back in and the car started fine. I swapped it with the other 53 relay in the panel (dual horns), and started the car a bunch of time with no problem. Then I gave the car back to her to drive to work. Everything was fine for a while.But now the problem is starting to return.
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I bought a 2005 camry at an estate sale last week. The serpentine belt was broken and guy running sale said the car set for 4 months and they jumped it off to start and it started and then died and wouldn't start. So I had it towed to my house. changed the water pump, idler tensioner, and new belt and now the car wont start. turns over good. so i changed plugs and still not starting. I will pull one plug in the morning and see if I'm getting spark. If not what would be next step.
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I bought a used 2008 Toyota Camry per-certified from a local Toyota dealer about 2 years ago. About a year and a half ago I got in the car to go to work one morning and it would not start. You turn the key and all the lights come on but nothing else happened. Took the battery to Auto Zone and they said the battery was OK so I had it towed to the dealership. Dealer called when he got it and said it cranked right up for them and it has not been an issue since.
Two days ago I get in the car to leave work and the same thing happens. You might hear the starter click when you turn the key but nothing else happened. The car was getting power from the battery but that was about it. I tried to jump the car off but still the same thing. I had the car towed to a local Goodyear shop and after looking at it the said it was a problem with the alternator, that needed to be replaced, which also killed a cell in the battery that needed to be replaced also. They said since they are replacing the alternator they might as well replace the belt also.
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My CEL came on today, gas level was a little under a quarter tank.
Took it to Advanced on the way home to have them scan it quick, and it threw a fuel pressure regulator code. I stopped in the gas station on the way home and filled it up, and the CEL was gone and hasn't been on since. I'm thinking HPFP, but maybe not? Could it be injectors?
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I filled my 2010 Prius IV. Every day since, my indicated MPG has gone up about one MPG, with my 40 mile round trip to work.
I had been running around 46-48 MPG indicated this winter. Next day it was up over 50. Yesterday 52, today it is up to 53 mpg and I have used 1/2 tank on 256 miles, which is much better than my winter stats.
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How many miles does it say you can drive after you fill up? Mine says 334 and that's what I'm getting. I want to hit 400 for a tank and can't.
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Normally when I fill my fuel tank, of course the car is off/not running. And once it is full and I get I'm the car then start it, the "Cruising Range" read out has always read about 403 mi.
Right after the recall was done, it read about 420 mi. if I recall correctly, but in the next fill up or two, it's remained at 403/404 mi.
However, today when I filled up and got in the car, the cruising range read 387 mi.
The tank was between 1/4 and 1/2 full before fill up.
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The leak only happens when filled more than 3/4 of a tank. It appears that the leak is coming from a hose or hose fitting to the right of the opening on top of the tank,under the driver's side rear seat. So far I have only been able to drop the tank about 2 inches.
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I'm not topping off or overfilling, I pull the nozzle out once the I get the 1st click/cut off whatever from gas pump nozzle once the tank is full and don't put in any extra. It doesn't do this right away (Power loss)... waits until I shut the car off for the day (after a fuel refill) and then the next day I'm driving along and for 20-30 minutes I get random complete loss of power. I don't think it's an ignition issue because it only happens when I fill the tank, but it sure feels like it. It's almost like that bad coil pack feeling. I don't know how else to explain it, just stops accelerating/cruising for a half of a second maybe once every minute or two for about 30 minutes, then it never happens again until i fill the tank.
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