Camry :: 2002 - High Mount Brake Light On Spoiler Half Burnt Out
Mar 4, 2013
Just bought an 02' camry and the high mount brake light on the spoiler is half burnt out. Tried removing what I'm guessing is an LED assembly but the screws are stuck and the angle is really awkward. Am I going to have to replace the whole LED bar?
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I ordered a stock, LE spoiler to spice up my base model Camry. I read that it's installed through the factory mounting holes although, when I took off the interior trunk lid cover, I did not see any "existing mount holes". It actually looks like a tight squeeze/fit to get any type of tool to drill out or ratchet any mounting bolts down.
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Noticed water droplets or heavy condensation in their high stop brake light (2015 model)?
I've noticed a small crack. The crack seems internal and not completely through so I don't think that is the reason. There also seems to be a vent around the water washer nozzle which should allow the light to dry out. It just seems to be taking days! Do that gap around the washer nozzle is intact a vent or are theses lights sealed. My one is the LED version.
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2010 F-250 14,000 miles, gas engine with Knapheide utility bed. Tilt wheel has been kept in the up position from day 1.
The problem:
No rear brake lights.
No high mount brake light.
No rear turn signals.
No rear hazard flashing lights.
All trailer lights work.
All other truck lights work.
Things checked: Fuses all OK. Visual inspection of multi-function switch. Looks clean. Brake switch at brake pedal has power on one wire. Jumpered the other wire-no brake lights.
I need to haul my trailer and am nervous when I see a Savannah, GA metro police car.
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Can this be changed easily by a non-dealer? The local Autozone doesn't list any replacement bulbs or assemblies, and I can't see a simple way of accessing the light assembly from the trunk.
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Someone mentioned to me this week that my high mount brake light was not working. No big deal, just a burned out bulb I assumed. Well, I replaced the bulbs (two bulbs) and it still does not work. The sockets look fine, no corrosion. The wiring that I can see looks good. I used a volt meter & found I'm getting no juice at the socket . . ? Is there an in line fuse or something else simple I should check. I'm thinking this should be an easy fix & am frustrated I can't figure it out. By the way, my lower brake lights are working fine.
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Trying to replace the burnt bulbs. Did the obvious: removed the two screws but in no way could I take the red lens off. I pried hard almost broke it but it's not coming off. It feels like some other mechanism holding it down. It is the one on top of the lift gate. The inside is just a hole with wires going through. What's the trick?
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My wife's 2010 ES 350 third brake light has an intermittent LED issue. The last 3 LEDs on the pass side flash on/off when the brake is depressed. My understanding is there may be a broken solder joint. My problem is I can't seem to get the assembly out. How the high mount assembly is mounted and how to remove it?
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Recently I noticed that three LEDs in my 05 SantaFe's high mount stop light glow even without the brake applied. When the brake pedal is depressed, the entire light glows as it should. But only the three LEDs glow at all times.
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My high mount break light works sporadically. When I break, sometimes you can see it as bright as it can be, other times it is dim, and then sometimes no light comes on. The dealership could not even figure out how to get to the led unit.
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Lexus has diagnosed a ground fault with an intermittent connection.... I am not sure how to proceed ... Could it be a light bulb connection... or does it even have these? Can the part be serviced in place... or must I replace the whole assembly?
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I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima SE (Automatic) it just started to run rough and has been drinking gas at an alarming rate. Almost 1/2 tank in about 60 miles. The car doesn't seem to be running slow or smelling of gas. I was told it was fuel injection issues and have added some cleaner but I am shocked with how bad it go so quickly. I had two motor mounts replaced in the car recently (the front one a day before this started). Would they have knocked something out of wack?
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2002 Lexus ES300 202k ... What causes a temporary burnt oil or rubber smell when I brake hard, lasts only about 1-2 minutes ...
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I changed combination switch (got from junk yard $40) and added relay (from dealer $24). now plug has power as I turn fog switch lights on/off, but my bumper is solid. there is space but it's solid bumper
1. which fog light to buy?
2. how can I mount securely.
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I know that brake light usage varies by driver. However, this driver has never had to replace a brake light on any car I've owned within the first three years. I know this because several have been leased and I never had to replace any bulb.
My Treg brake light went out last week and I had to replace it. Is a shorter brake light life par for the course here? Any fancy reason? How many brake lights have you replaced?
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02 Camry, how to I remove the burnt license plate bulb? Took off the underside trunk carpet and disconnected bulb harness, but I don't know how to remove the plastic piece that holds the bulb in place. Does it pull out, or twist out? I don't want to break it!
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I changed my dogbone mount over the weekend. Did not get a oem but got one from advance auto for 50 bucks. So I noticed a vibration when I'm in reverse or drive. I got some vids of the engine running. Could the cheap mount I got just be causing more vibration than the old one?? Which was cracked?
[URL].....
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I've recently noticed that the right brake light on my 2003 corolla is not working. When I turn on the light, all the bulbs in the rear right seems to light up (except turn signal of course). when I pressed on the brake, the right brake bulb doesn't get brighter like the left one. Two questions:
1. Am I crazy when I see the brake light bulb turn on with other bulbs (i.e. is it suppose to be on when light is turn on and just get brighter when brake is pressed)?
2. Is this a burnt out bulb that I can easily replace myself or potentially a wiring problem that I may need a mechanic for?
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My dad has a 2010 Matrix base model, and we can't seem to get the driver's side burnt out bulb out. I did a Google/Bing search, as well as Youtube, but most results were about the Corolla, and the Matrix and Corolla have 2 different tail lights.
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2002 F-150 4x4 w/ 5.4 v-8. Brake pedal goes half way to floor before it starts to stop the vehicle. I have replaced and bled the master cylinder, bled out all of the calipers, and the calipers are installed correctly because the bleeder screws are at the top on all of them so no air can be trapped up there. The truck seems to stop fine, but just takes more pedal to get it to start stopping than I'm comfortable with. Could the ABS unit need bled out too? Or could it be an adjustment issue with the booster rod?
Also, something else I noticed, and it may be related..the ABS unit usually makes a slight clanking sound (like someone kicking a metal garbage can) a couple seconds after the key is turned on. I know its the ABS unit because a couple weeks ago I had a friends scanner hooked up to the truck, and I went into the ABS computer to clear the codes (have ABS light on from what I found to be a bad sensor wire on the front drivers side according to the scanner) and as soon as i cleared the codes on the ABS, it made that sound. I don't know if maybe there is something wrong with the ABS actuator, or if it's related to the brake pedal issue.
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today i was installing some lights in my car. i decided to use the shift light as my power source so i tapped into it but during the process i accidentally shorted it and i believe i blew a fuse somewhere. the shift light hvac control and the radio lights no longer turn on. Where is the fuse that blew and is it possible that theres a fuse behind the radio that blew?
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