Camry :: 2002 - Hesitates And Stalls After Driving For A While
Mar 20, 2014
I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 which I bought a month ago from its original owner. It has 140k miles on it. Timming belt and water pump were changed at 90k, car is in very good shape, clean engine.
It has a weird issue.
In the early morning, from my house to work around 7am, I have to drive around 20 mins on freeway , I exit and drive for another 5 mins on local street which is up and downhill, at red light or when I have to turn, the car begins to hesitate like hiccup and stall on me. The car cannot start again immediately, all power is still working, the car is trying its best to turn over but it fails. However after I wait couple mins, I can restart the car. Then, the car will run just fine, absolutely fine the rest of the day.
The weird thing here is, on days I don't have to work, I start to drive it at around 10am when it's warmer and there's sunshine, and not up and downhill, it never hesitates or stalls. Even I try to drive it up a big hill near my house at noon, nothing happens. So I'm not sure if driving up and downhill playing a part in this problem.
It doesn't happen all the time when I have to drive to work in early morning, up and downhill, but more than often. The car drives great on freeway, idle excellent around 500-600 RPM. One more detail, the gas pedal kind of vibrates (very small vibration) around 1600 RPM, and it's annoying. I'm not sure if it is relating to the issue.
Here what I did to the car:
1. Clean throttle body.
2. Clean Mass Airflow Sensor. Didn't work. Then I replaced it with a used OEM one.
3. Put Techron Additive in the gas tank.
4. Replace Air Filter.
None of the above works, but I think somehow it improves a tiny little bit.
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I have a 2002 camry that stalls out while driving. The car stalls when engine is warmed up and the car is running at appropriate temperature. When this occurs no "check engine lights" stay on and the car re-starts after 15-20 minutes and runs just fine. I had the car looked at by a Toyota dealer and another independent shop and they where unable to pull any codes from the computer module. The car is up to schedule with routine maintenance items. The car is garage kept and I go to the same gas station each fill up.
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my 88 camry will start and idle fine however whenever you attempt to accelerate the vechicle the car trys to stall and hesitate badly and will not move. i have changed the fuel filter the spark plugs and plug wires i cannot figure it out. also this started out of nowere the car was driving i had been driving for about ten miles stopped at a red light and that is when the car started doing this.
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I am the original owner of a 2002 Camry V6. Recently when you take the foot off the gas to coast or just maintain speed there is a sensation of jerking- it disappears as soon as you accelerate. Took it to Toyota dealership- they were clueless- they wanted to change the transmission fluid.
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Background Info: 2002 Camry LE w/ 2.4L engine with approx 90,100 miles. Battery is approx 3 years old and is fully charged (used a trickle charger)
Yesterday I noticed the car was hesitant when I was starting the car. Every time I started the car it took longer to get the car started. Then today, I tried to start my car but all i got was a sound that sounded like something was spinning. There was no clicking, no sounds of the car trying to turn over. So I attached the charger to my car and it said it was good (plus the lights worked, the radio worked, windows rolled up and down).
So I used my breaker bar and hit the starter twice, went back in to the car and it started up, very hesitantly. Now my car will only start when i hit the starter first, otherwise it makes that spinning noise.
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My 2002 CR-V has 126,000 miles. For the last year I have brought my vehicle to the mechanic numerous times because it clicks (sounds from the passenger side dash board) bucks, and stalls while driving, especially if it has been sitting in the sun, causing the check engine light to eventually turn on. When checked by the mechanic it doesn't give a code. It seems to be electrical in nature because in the winter, even though it is significantly less of a problem, my new batteries seem to drain overnight. We have replaced both PCM relays, the air/fuel sensor, and the ignition switch. The problem remains almost unchanged. While highway driving I often have to switch gears because I will suddenly lose all power and could floor the accelerator to no avail. If I am sitting at a light, the vehicle will usually stall if I have to wait too long.
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So the wife's 02 Camry (I4/ auto) would not start for her & so I started the usual trouble shooting, fuel, spark, combustion, etc. Scan tool found 5 codes p0300 thru p0304, found the plugs to be soaked and not looking so hot in general (replaced plugs, it was time/105k). Now I can start the car but only if I hold throttle open, so when it starts if I let off it stalls, unless I hold it at 2500 rpms for 2 to 3 minutes, the car then will hold idle. If I try to mat the pedal to the flr it falls on it's face (nearly stalls, in gear or park). If I ease into the pedal the car runs without any issues, can stroll down the highway 70/80 mph with cruies or pedal. Currently no codes but will not take fast acceleration. If the car sits for any amount of time I have to hold throttle open to start it/ large cloud of smoke, smells liek raw fuel. Cleaned MAF, throttle body, etc...
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today I replaced the battery on our 2002 Camry SE 2.4l because it was incredibly slow to crank today...but it did crank. So i get a Duralast Gold to replace a Toyota TrueStart battery, and it started up fine. However, it was idling at 200-400 RPMs, so its already not right. So I drive it a quick mile or so, and when letting off the gas the RPMs drop to 200-400 while going down the street! Coming to a stop, it really wanted to stall out. Couple stops later, it did stall out, and the Check Engine light, Battery light, and Oil light all came on. Trying to restart it it cranked, started, but then immediately died. You know when you start it the RPM needle goes high and then comes down a bit? It does that, but the needle won't stop and it just goes to 0, and throws the Check Engine, battery, and oil light. I finally got it cranked, and all 3 previously mentioned lights are off when its running. It has done it one other time about 3 months ago when I disconnected the negative battery terminal for some work, and it did the same exact thing. It ended up just fixing itself, but obviously not since its rough starting and the problem came back the next time I disconnected the battery.
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My wife has a 2002 Camry V6 SE with about 75k miles. Over the past 6 months the car has developed a problem. Every so often, say once every 2-3 weeks the car will start fine, but after driving for about 5-10 minutes, will start running rough and stall if I stop for a light. It will start again, (with a little effort) and will stall again at the next stop and so on. I can pull off the road, wait 10 minutes and the car will then run like a Swiss watch until the next episode.
I have taken the car to a respected mechanic and he sees nothing obvious wrong and there is no record in the car's computer of any problem. The last time this happened the car had been on the road for about 20 minutes before the stalling problem occurred. I kept the car going at idle by putting in neutral and increasing the throttle.
After we arrived home, the car cut out when we made it into the garage but a rotten egg-like smell was in the air in the garage. After about an hour, the car stated immediately and ran like a top. That was about a week ago and no problems since. I have read in the threads about EGRs Throttle bodies etc.
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2002 Camry 4 cly was running great. All the sudden looses power, stalls (won't idle), engine light came on, when I held gas pedal at 1000 rpm engine rev's 1000 - 1400 rpm. Autozone trouble codes P0300, P0301, P0302, P0171, P0420. Car barely runs, getting worse quickly. I also smelled hot metal when I pulled into driveway, exhaust tail pipe was superhot.
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Just got the battery replaced on my v6 Camry, had no problems before it. After replacing the battery, I drove about a mile to another stop and parked the car. Noticed it vibrating and the idles very low. I restarted the car and it wouldn't stay on. Car will turn on fine, RPMs will go a bit above 1k and drop down and turn off in about 5 seconds.
Today morning I started it and it seemed fine (cold start). Idles were about 1K on a cold start. Drove around about a mile and came home and the car stalled. Same as above, it'll start up and stall within 5 seconds.
I took it for a drive (about 25 miles) so the car can re-learn everything and took a stop at Autozone. Same thing there. Didn't stall on the way because I didn't have to stop, I was on the highway. One of the sales guys looked at the car and told me to try out a new MAF Sensor. Installed a new sensor and the car died off again within 5 seconds. Checked the readings of the MAF sensor (old and new) and they both read fine.
Brought the car back home (about 35 miles total driving after battery replacement) and it'll still stall as soon as you stop. To keep it going, you have to hold the brake and hit the accelerator very lightly to keep the idle in the middle of 0 and 1 or shift into Neutral and do the same.
No CELs on the car, car drove perfectly fine before the new battery. New battery tests good, even went to the extent of putting my old battery back in (Drove about 35 miles on new battery, replaced and drove 35ish miles). Car has just short of 100k miles. Regular services are done at Toyota at about 5-6k.
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I drive a 2002 Toyota Camry. Mostly runs great! If I drive on the freeway at 60-70 mph for 30-45 minutes, when I get off on surface streets the engine starts to die. I have to keep one foot on the brake and one foot on the accelerator to keep the engine >1000rpm. When I park at my destination and park the car for 1-2 hours, everything is fine when I start up again. Happens repeatedly - not always, maybe 95% of the time. Two mechanics can't figure it out and are unable to reproduce the problem after they drive the car on the freeway.
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MY 2011 Sonata has 84K miles. Last couple of months, I've noticed it engine jerks / hesitates / stalls when going from 40 mph to 60 mph. Once it reaches 60 mph I can go 70mph or higher without any problem. I've made several visits to dealership without any success. First, they diagnosed as bad oxygen sensor and bad spark plugs. The problem did not go away after replacing both. According to them it does not give any error code. Now they're asking to perform fuel cleaning service. I feel they're shooting in the dark. Does it sounds like problem with the automatic transmission i.e problem shifting into higher gear.
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2002 Camry is jerking and bucking at high speeds then stalls after coming to a stop. Will restart immediately if you give it gas. Then I must keep pressure on accelerator at all times even while stopped or car stalls. Shut car off and let sit for 20 to 30 minutes. Once restarting must give it gas, but then car runs without stalling. However has no trouble on cold start.
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2006 Chevy Express 3500 ... Vehicle surges, hesitates, stalls, backfires, and is hard to start after stalling.No codes are thrown, and have had the fuel system checked out without results. 159.000 miles. last mechanic said it was not a spark plug issue. Been an ongoing problem for several months and getting worse all the time.
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This problem showed up this summer, different times under load: on hot days, going uphill, AC on. Also, always happens when the temp gauge is just above halfway. Even after a stall, I am able to limp home, and it improves the longer the car runs after the problem starts. First I replaced the fuel filter which was pretty dirty, the problem didn't improve, so had the shop run codes -- low ignition voltage. They replaced the coil, and that seemed to work for a while. Now, in109 degree heat, it's starting to hesitate again, but the engine light hasn't come on this time. I had to replace the radiator about 4 months back, when it was cooler, and don't know if it's somehow temp related. Also, haven't replaced the timing belt since I bought it with 90K (its has 119K now).
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My 88 "Rosie" has been having problems for months. It hesitates, stalls, and sometimes backfires. This is an intermittent problem, though it is happening more often lately. I took it to local auto shop and their computer showed Rosie was throwing a misfire code as well as a lean code. I took it 3 months ago, and I took it last week, got the same codes. The lean code led me to check the fuel pressure. I did and while it should be healthy 48-55 psi, I got 48 for awhile then 15 PSI! Now I'm thinking fuel delivery. I started with the filter. Sure enough it was dirty. Weeks later, the problem persists. I replaced the fuel regulator (ok, mostly because it was cheaper than the replacing the fuel pump, which I really didn't want to have to do.) Still, no luck, so I finally caved and spent $200 and 12 hrs dropping the tank to replace the fuel pump. Guess, what? Still no dice. I'm still getting the hesitation and the misfiring. I haven't put the fuel pressure tester back on it (been busy) so I don't know if the pressure is still low or if these other things are even related. I thought my logic was infallible. Let's face it, there's a finite number of parts that control fuel pressure. I'm running out of parts to replace. Where did I go wrong? The only thing I can think of that could still do it is perhaps the fuel pump relay? I dunno. Would it work off and on or fail completely? I'd love to get some opinions on this.
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We've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
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I have a 1987 automatic Nissan Sentra XE- two barrel carburetor, mileage 212,880. The car has one major problem that is going to get me hit driving it in rush hour. Most mechanics will not touch the car due to being carburetor.
Let me explain: the car idles real rough at times, hesitates at stop signs and red lights, about stalls out on me when I press the gas pedal to go or when I start to make a left or right turn. However, other times the car has little to no hesitation and idles perfectly. I have not been able to come up with a good a pattern with this problem.
I have replaced, fuel pump & filter, spark plug wires, coil, distributor, ecu computer, ran sea foam through the fuel system and have replaced many vacuum hoses.
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I have an '02 Camry XLE (1MZ-FE) with around 175k miles on it. I've never done any transmission maintenance on it until recently (I was one of those dopes who believed my mechanic when he told me that the fluid didn't ever need changing).
A couple weeks ago, I started noticing a bit of a lurch when I was driving. It wouldn't ever affect the RPMs or anything and it was only ever an instantaneous thing so I didn't let it bother me too much. About 3 weeks ago it started getting worse and rapidly deteriorated into a problem. The engine started doing it in idle and it would happen numerous times (sometimes, when I'm driving in the city, it happens as many as 3 times a minute or so).
I immediately attributed the problem to the transmission and did 2 drain and fills with a synthetic fluid that's rated to meet Type-IV WS standards. The problem hasn't gone away, so either the problem in the transmission is a lot worse than I'd hoped, or there's something else wrong.
I ran an OBD-II code reader on it and have been getting an O2 sensor code. I was planning on replacing both of the O2 sensors to see if that fixed the problem. I was thinking that the lurch that I was feeling was just engine misfires caused by the O2 sensors sending bad info, leading to the engine running lean (the engine hasn't been overheating).
Either way, I need to put in new O2 sensors, but yesterday while I was driving to work, the engine almost completely stopped supplying power. It kept running, but no matter how hard I pushed the pedal, the vehicle wouldn't move any faster. I pulled over, turned it off, and turned it back on, and it worked again, but the VSC and traction control lights went on.
Does this sound like a transmission problem, or is there something in the ECM that would cause these kind of things now that the O2 sensors have gotten so bad?
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