The wifes camry all of a sudden tossed up CEL. Codes read P0100, P0110, and P0420. Car has about 125K miles, runs fine. I cleaned the MAF sensor with CRC cleaner just for that, pulled EFI fuse to reset, came back on immediately when started.
I was thinking of getting a used one from pull-a-part, but they only have 98 camrys at the moment. Any chance MAF is the same?
I replaced the MAF a week ago but the code P0100 is still there. Car runs fine in the highway but I do notice acceleration issues. I got the knock sensor but I cannot find it in my nissan altima (2000). The car shakes while stalling, at a red light, and pretty much as soon as I stop. Putting the car in N will work a bit but won't stop the shaking. Should I focus on the MAF again or should I keep trying to replace the KS? Where it is?
View 3 RepliesLeft my 2002 SF 2.4 with someone to replace clutch. Calls me after the job to say it doesn't run!
Codes P0100 and P0340.
Maf is new. I had a Cam sensor in stock. Nil fix.
Have changed out recently;
Fuel Pump
Coil packs
CPS
MAF
and just now, the Cam sensor.
It starts right up then shuts off, does not slowly sputter and die.
I asked him to go over the wires and connectors. He could have stressed a cable while pulling the tranny. I do have the old MAF that I could try, but doubtful it would fail at the same time as a clutch job. Now wishing I had done the clutch myself!
Check engine light came on yesterday evening. Advance read the codes as P0100 and P0171. The guy said something that it may be related to the mass air flow sensor. The car seems to run fine.
View 2 RepliesLooked around and could not find info on 2 codes. 2004 Prius : P0420 and U0293. One I believe is lost communication with hybrid system. Are these serious?
View 3 RepliesA few weeks back I got my ARK exhaust installed with no problems. Due to some personal reasons I had it removed and my stock exhaust reinstalled by a different shop over this past weekend. I've been driving it fine for the past few days but today I noticed the CEL on with codes P0420 and P0430. I hit up the shop to see what was up and he told me he didn't touch anything that should have caused this. What should I do....
View 3 RepliesMy 2003 Volvo S40 Turbo (140K miles) came back with the following during emissions inspection (and failed). Is it worth fixing?
P0420 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold - bank 1 and P0015 "B" Camshaft position timing over retarded - bank 1....
After changing 3coilpacks on my Passat 04 1.8T soo far finally the last one went out. The codes I got are P0301 (which is misfire cylinder1) and the other code is p0420 which I do not know what it is... I think it might do something with cat or something.
View 1 RepliesI just picked up a MK4 gls 1.8t jetta for a project car.... I wanted to keep the miles off my MK6 gti.... The jetta has 92k miles and the first thing I had done was the timing belt service done as well as a new alternator clutch pulley and oil change... 1 day after I got the car i was driving to work and the CEL came on took it to auto parts store... 2 codes came up
P0420: catalyst system. efficiency below threshold bank1
P2181 cooling system performance
I have the green sensor and I think its time to change the thermostat... My question is is it just a coincidence that both codes came up at the same time or is i possible it is a sign for something else... i just had the thermostat changed 10 min ago...CEL light is gone so i will wait to see if the cat code comes back.
We bought the 2010 RX350 a couple of weeks ago and have gotten these codes twice.. I have a good scanner and know what the codes say about Cat's bank 1 and 2 operating below threshold. I know some of you are going to say replace the cat's, others are going to say replace the sensors and neither should be the problem... If it were a cat or sensor, then they would not come in at the identical same time... It has to be something common such as a throttle body, charcoal canister, or another item upstream of the cat's... Not the gas cap either...Maybe a vacuum hose..
View 14 RepliesThe check engine light on my sons 03 celica is on. Went to autozone and they got the codes for me. They are P0420, P0442, P0446, P0456. I realize that I should probably have an OBD11 reader. What steps do I take to fix this?
View 2 RepliesCheck engine light came on while driving home from work. The car seems to be running fine but I got the following codes p2195, p0420, p2096. I have a 2006 elantra with 184000 miles. Should I just replace the upstream oxygen sensor or is there a more likely problem? I rather not spend the money if this combination of codes is likely has a different cause but replacing the sensor appears to be the quickest and easiest solution.
View 5 RepliesWhat I need to do to fix these codes
p0171 system too lean bank 1
p2637 torque management
p0420 ...
I took my car to get inspected today and it was rejected because of P0420 and P0430: Both Catalyst system efficiency below... My check engine is also on.
I have the full Meisterschaft exhaust installed (+midpipe) PPE headers and K&N intake. Whats the problem and how can I get this fixed so I can pass the inspection?
1998 Chevy C1500 4.3L V6 170,000 miles
My truck is stumbling and losing engine power sporadically. When this is happening I can usually drive it if I am real easy on the gas and slowly build up speed but if I mash it the engine will eventually just die completely. It has had this problem off and on for several years and now it's back with a vengeance. It always seemed to happen after a heavy rain but now I'm not sure.
Last week I had a mechanic look at the codes and he cleared them saying that once it happened again the code(s) that showed up would be a good indicator of the actual problem. The codes that were there were for a couple O2 sensors, catalytic converter and loss of vacuum I think. It happened again and his shop was closed so I got it read and cleared somewhere else and it was P0131 bank 1 sensor 1 and since I knew that one had come up before I went ahead and replaced it myself.
The next day the CEL came back on without any noticeable engine trouble. That was yesterday, this morning it rained and the problem is back and I went to get the code read and it was the P0420. There was also C0281 stop lamp circuit something or other that was new.
My gas mileage has stayed pretty good this whole time, always 15+mpg. Just wondering if my catalytic converter probably needs replaced, if I should replace other O2 sensors, or if this all might indicate something else in the engine.
I just bought a used Toyota Corolla 2002 CE with 120K miles two months ago. the car seemed fine and drives fine too. After a while I found out that the seller had removed the "check engine" light, so I read the error code by a instrument and I got these errors. 171,420,441. And I noticed that the engine burn a quarter oil every 200 miles on long drives!I checked the VSV valve and connected hoses but no problem there. Since the car has just 120K miles, I'm not sure that the piston rings are worn out! I'm wondering what could cause all of these errors?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2013 F350 Crew Cab Long bed xl with 128000 miles on it. I just barely bought it from a small dealer and had a check engine light come on for the cats.(P0420 and 0430)
I have spoke with the dealer and he assured me that he would replace the cats. He stated he had O2 sensors replaced and thought he had fixed the problem. Not sure if he replaced all sensors or just the fronts.
He has been avoiding calls lately and will not return my messages. Anyways, My question is what should I be looking for to prevent future cats from going bad. I just ordered a bluetooth OBD 2 scanner and bought the Torque Pro App.
I am not new to working on trucks but they have all been 1995 and older and i am new to anything scanner wise and do not know what I should be monitoring. If I can't get this guy to replace the cats I want to monitor everything to make sure the cats are bad.
BTW, Fuel Mileage is at best 12.3 with an extremely light foot, Driving normal it drops off to about 11.8-12. Is this a normal MPG in these trucks? I have seen post about people getting close to 16 unloaded not smashing throttle?
On another note, I just remembered that my traction control light will come on with no wheel spin at times after starting the truck and driving away.
I just recently purchased a 2008 ford f350 5.4L gasser, supercab long box. The truck has 167,000km on it. I flew about 700km from my hometown to pick up the truck and drive it home. After driving about 300km I started noticing a few problems.
The engine light codes that have been stored as of now:
P0420 (Catalyst code)
P0420 (Catalyst code)
P0191 (Fuel rail pressure sensor i think?)
The issue I'm having is that the truck has absolutely no power going uphill or accelerating. If I'm climbing a hill and have the gas pedal pushed in at a steady rate its almost as if the transmission wont shift, and if i push harder on the gas the truck begins to shudder. When the truck is cold it runs normal and climbs hills no problem, but once it heats up the problem returns. Another odd thing I noticed under the hood on my drive home was that they disconnected the vacuum line from the fuel rail pressure sensor and simply plugged the line on a random bolt.
Also, the truck apparently has a cam phaser lockout on it and I dont know if that could be causing the issue? Here's a list of some of the troubleshooting ive done so far.
-checked all fuses(start at the basics eh)
-checked resistance of coils(checked out fine, even after engine was warm)
-pulled spark plug 1 and 5, they both seemed fairly clean, not fowled up
-generally looked over all the vacuum lines, seemed fine couldn't see anything else really out of the ordinary
-while the truck was running I used a temperature gauge to see what the exhaust system was doing. On the drivers side when the truck was warm before the cat I had 140C and after the cat it was 80C(good indication the cat is plugged?) The other side tested fairly consistent.
I have recently picked up a 2005 F350 with the 5.4, which has 212k on it. Has a check engine light on for P0420 and P0430, as well as some kind of a 'ignition coil 'D'', I forgot which code it was as I deleted them at first to see which would come back. After driving it, the P0420 and the P0430 came back, but not the other, yet probably. I'm guessing the misfire due to the ignition coil caused the cats to go bad and the 420/430 codes, unless these codes are coincidental and the cats went due to high mileage.
Either way, I'm pretty sure I will need to replace the cats and was wondering what is the cheapest route. Should I get individual cats and have a shop weld them on? Should I go to Advance Auto parts or Auto Zone and get the whole pipe with the cats attached to them already and then get them installed? I anything will involve welding, I would have to bring it in to a shop. Also, in regards to the ignition coil misfire, what a good way to check which one it is?
Car details: 2002 Toyota Camry V6 3L LXE - 151k miles.
My car took a little longer than normal to start up one morning, but I attributed it to the especially cold weather. I didn't have any problems the following two or three mornings, but my car suddenly died in traffic as I came to a stop, as it had many times before. What made this incidence different in particular was that I didn't feel my car shake or shudder before it shut down. I simply looked down and the Check Engine, oil, and battery lights had all come on, and my power steering was gone.
I attempted, as usual, to restart my car, but the starter only sat and tried to turn over and nothing more. Once I gave it a little gas, it caught, but as soon as I let the engine idle, the RPM dropped to 0 and the engine died. I sat and kept my foot on the gas for a minute or so after I got the car started in hopes that the car would stay on - when I let up, it idled roughly close at a very low RPM for several seconds, shuddered, and then died.
I was unable to get out and under the hood to try the typical trick of unplugging the MAFS and plugging it back in again, so I'm not sure if this would have worked as it has before despite having been replaced. Actually, before I was able to do this again, wouldn't you know it? My starter died. My car started giving a grinding, choking noise when I tried to start it up again, so I simply had it towed to the mechanic.
The mechanic declared the starter dead, which is unusual given I just had it replaced several months ago (could just be a lemon, I guess), so I had it replaced and they said the car started and ran great afterwards. They could not replicate the problem (like previous times), the computer gave no codes.
I noticed after the starter choked, my odometer lost power and my clock reset.
Is it possible that it's some problem with the battery?
Car: Toyota Camry 2002 .. Mileage: 150K
Symptom:Check Engine light went on a few days ago.
Checked codes and got these (3):
1) P0420
2) P1310 and
3) P0420 P ("Pending" ?)
I also checked I/M Readiness and got these suspicious-looking values:CAT: NOT RDYEVAP: NOT RDYO2S: NOT RDYH02S: NOT RDY
NOTE all the other I/M values were N/A
Researching the Codes, it sounded like Ignition, and possibly the O2 sensor on the Catalytic Convertor. I had just had some engine work done by the dealer -- actually, replaced spark plugs -- so I figured to go back and bitch him out for screwing up my car.
A few days later, before I could engage my Rage, I went back and re-scanned. First I noticed the CEL was now OFF. Scanning, I now I get "NO CODES", and all the I/M values are now N/A; No more "NOT RDY".
What do you all make of this? Should I be concerned now that the CEL is Off, and I get No Codes with a scan?Or maybe I should take it to AutoZone for their free CEL diagnosis -- would their machine be more thorough than mine (Autel MaxioScan 300)??