Camry :: 2002 - Gas Light Coming On / MPG Is Being Affected
Feb 25, 2013
Recently on my 2002 4cyl Camry, I've noticed i seem to be getting terrible mileage (I've been keeping tabs on it over the course of several months). I've been getting only about 300 miles to the tank (mixed city/hwy). I expected to get approximately ~400 miles at least. Most noticeably, this last couple weeks after filling the tank approximately halfway according to the gas gauge, I've gotten only 120 miles before the gas light came on (where I continued to drive for approximately 15 miles).
I then filled the tank all the way up at the gas station and after the pump automatically shut off, I noticed it only filled up just shy of 12 gallons. the 02 Camry should contain 18.5 gallons, so after the gas light comes on i would assume there to be about 2 gallons or so remaining, but most certainly not 6! (also want to add that after the pump shut off, the gas meter didn't actually fully reach the F line but was a bit below it.
So in my mind right now there could be two potential problems that may be interrelated, my cars MPG is being affected somehow by my car guzzling gas AND/OR my gas gauge might not be working properly, which could fool me into thinking that 120 miles on 1/2 tank might have actually been a result of incorrect metering on the gauge and I might have actually had less than 1/2 a tank.
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My friends 02 Camry A/C light is flashing. A/C compressor is not coming on. About a month ago I replaced the MG A/C relay with a Napa relay and cleaned out the cabin filter to fix same concern.
It appears the relay is bad again. Are the OEM relays recommended over the aftermarkets relays for this concern or am I overlooking something else.
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I have a 2002 4 cylinder Camry, and I've been having trouble with the EVAP test completing. I've been running the EVAP test to the letter, with no success, so I figure the problem might be dependent on something else not completing.
I used to get the occasional check engine light for loose gas cap. So a few days ago I intentionally left the gas cap VERY loose (it's essentially just sitting in the filler nozzle). But I'm not getting the check engine light. I think that the gas tank pressure test may not be running, and that may be why I can't get the EVAP test to complete successfully.
Conditions: The gas level is about 1/2 full, and the ambient temperature has been around 20-35 degrees F.
I'm having a hard time searching. Most search results deal with how to resolve the loose gas cap problem. The check engine light is not burned out... it comes on briefly when I start the car!
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So, i have a 1996 honda accord, i just had a new alternator put on yesterday. Well before then, when the old one was still in the car, my car would heat up while i was sitting still and it was drinking coolant and water like crazy!!! I was thinking that maybe i was having a head problem, but i didn't see any tell tale signs of coolant leaking over into the oil. So, today was the first day i drove to work with the new alternator on, i filled it up with coolant before i left for work, i drove 20 minutes to work and 20 minutes back home.
The temperature gauge never moved above the middle line, even when i was at a sit still with the car on. I checked the coolant level after the car cooled off, and it was still pretty full. Could a bad alternator effect the performance of your cooling system? I am by no means, complaining about this, I am very happy my car isn't heating up abnormally anymore, just curious was the alternator my problem?
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This morning on my way to work my 2006 2.5T XC90 engine lost major horsepower. I barely could creep ahead once the traffic light turned green. The exclamation point on the dash was lit and the error message said "Engine performance affected". I sputtered to the curb and put the vehicle in park. I depressed the gas pedal several times all the way to the floor with little reaction in engine rpms. I then shut off the engine and restarted. After this the warning lights went out and the engine ran fine. The outside temperature was -7F and my vehicle had been running for about 5 minutes.
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For a few months now, I've had a slight rattle coming from my car's front end (2002 V6), but it has been getting louder. The noise is most pronounced at 30+ mph on rough (old) road. Yesterday, I jacked up the front end to do the tie-rod and ball-joint tests. There is no play from either top-bottom or front-back wiggling.
Here's what I did notice while doing those tests:
1. It looks like the hockey-puck sized control arm bushings are cracking. Is there a source for poly replacements (and how much do they effect the car's ride)? Or is there a better-than-OEM rubber replacement?
2. When the cars was jacked up, I could turn the wheels a little bit (maybe a quarter turn while the tranny was in park). There was some noise coming from behind the hub. It sounded like the meshing of gears, or metal parts intercoking with each other. Is this normal? The bearings don't make any noise when it's driving.
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Picked up an 02 Camry with manual trans and 100k miles on it. It has terrible road noise coming from the right front. I thought it may be tires, so I replaced all 4 of them with new michellons It sounds like there is no insulation on the fire wall. I can not find the cause of this noise at all. It is like driving with the window down!
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Unfortunately I've neglected changing the spark plugs in a while. I've done so now with NGK iridiums. But still throwing the code. Thought it may be the ignition coil next. Swapped the current coils around to see if the code would change and no such luck. Erase the code and it still comes up as P0304.
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I have a coolant leak coming from I am assuming the thermostat housing or thermostat. My question is, is there a gasket behind this that I am assuming is bad or is the thermostat bad.
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2002 Camry is jerking and bucking at high speeds then stalls after coming to a stop. Will restart immediately if you give it gas. Then I must keep pressure on accelerator at all times even while stopped or car stalls. Shut car off and let sit for 20 to 30 minutes. Once restarting must give it gas, but then car runs without stalling. However has no trouble on cold start.
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I own a 2002 Passat 1.8T. The oil pressure light came on a few weeks ago and I took it in to be looked at. The oil pressure at idle and at 2000 rpm's was fine so they thought it might be the Oil Pressure Sender. Picked up the car and lo and behold, the light continued to come on. Took it back for service. This time the oil pressure levels were lower than spec so, they changed the Oil Pump, tested the pressure and all checked out to be within spec. 15 miles into my drive home, the light was on again. Not sure what to look at now. What to do next?
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I have a 2002 passat. it is a v6 with a manual trans (i do not know about gls or anything like that) but the coolant stop light is coming on and if i drive, it runs hotter than normal. i assume it is a thermostat stuck closed but is there anything else i should look at before i make that assumption?
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My 2002 Nissan Sentra's check engine light keeps coming on. It came on about three weeks ago, and our mechanic replaced an oxygen sensor. Two or three days later, it came back on. He figured the first sensor was faulty, and replaced it with another. The light came on as I was driving away from the place. The mechanic replaced some of the wires. And now, a week after that, the light came on again.
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My battery light keeps coming on and off, batteries were replaced by the dealer and checked out good at advanced auto parts.
2002 Limited 7.3L
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2002 Camry, V6, Auto
Failure description: Battery light came on at low RPM's, under 1k, about 30 miles from home last night. Highway driving for the majority. About mile 25 abs, airbag and brake lights flash on the dash, shortly after it looks like radio is struggling to stay powered. Mile 28 pull off high way. Car struggles to idle. Dash is acting erratic (tach and speedo also now) and it looks like the battery is dying. Mile 29 battery dies. I was able to get a new battery and get the last mile so to home. Still struggled to not die at low RPMs.
The mileage is roughly right but also more tied to the chronology of how things progressed. My gut feel is it could be the alternator - I'll get the multimeter on the car when I get home and see how it's behaving. However I'm surprised it wasn't able to run okay with a new battery, at least for the short distance. What things I should check/measure once I get into it aside from the alternator?
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I just got done putting the head back together after time sert repair on the 10 head bolts and after the initial start up and warm up I drove it outside and within 5 minutes the oil pressure light came on. I did something stupid afterwards but being that it's nighttime already I thought it would be fun to TURN ON THE ENGINE AND REMOVE THE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH TO ZZCHECK PRESSURE. Well it sprayed 2 feet in every direction until I managed to put it back. Cannot tell the psi but lots of pressure for idle. Oil is traveling places. I used compressed air on the switch put it back but still red light of death. The car drives fine no noise.
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My wifes car is an 2002 Camry 4Cyl. It has a periodic flashing A/C light and decrease or no performance when it does so. I called the dealer and asked for a magnetic clutch relay for A/C. Went to pick up the part and they had 90080-87026 waiting. My research shows that 90987-02022 (in the car now) was superseded by 90987-02028.
What is 90080-87026 for? Did they give me the wrong part?
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I have an 2002 Toyota Camry and having problems with ac. Ac light is flashing. I have put compressor (used) on, brand new expansion valve, flushed out lines, and recharged. Air started to blow cold then quits again. Now compressor kicks on then off. At my limits on what's the problem.
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I am new to the ToyotaNation Forums. I got a 2002 Toyota Camry LE. Recently, I had an oil change done couple weeks ago and that same day I used the seafoam engine treatment. Now in the past couple days I had a low oil pressure warning light coming on. The car will not start unless I key into ignition and quickly rev the engine to like 2000 rpm+ and it goes. I read that the engine can seize. I checked the dipstick and the engine oil is clean and seems good. I went to (2) mechanics and they will not know unless the light comes back on. It has not come back on as of yet. Now I want to know what I can do to resolve this dilemma I got.
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My abs light is coming on and off. It turns out the ABS ring on the right hand side has some damage on some of the teeth. Is it possible to just replace the ring? and how hard of a job is it? I tried searching and could not find anything on this part.
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The green A/C light on my 2002 Camry (4 cyl) will start to flash after the the A/C is turned on. After reading about the relay fix I tried swapping relays and had the same symptoms. The compressor will engage and for the few seconds that its engaged it will just barely start to blow cooler air until it starts to flash. I then noticed that with the relay completely removed I would also get the flashing light after a few seconds when the A/C was turned on but the air would not start to turn cold.
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