Camry :: 2002 - Car Heat Up At Idle / Temps Will Drop
May 25, 2016
My wife has a 02 Solara V6. It has been a cold spring and now it has warmed up and in the 80's and a problem has reared its head. Engine runs fine, will warm up normally and while driving will stay at a normal halfway temp.
Problem is it will heat up at idle, say at a light. The fans run, but half assed. They'll kick in with the AC on and the temps will drop, but then they switch off to half assed speed again. I will probably take a multimeter and measure the voltage at each fan plug when they are running slow.
The weird part is both fans go full bore when the AC is on and then slow after about 4-5 mins.
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So I turn the heat on, and my engine feels like it's going to stall out, the RPM's drop by 200. What could this be?
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When outside temps are cold (below 35 degrees) my 2002 camry 2.4L will missfire and run rough. It is very noticeable. After I drive it 10-20 miles and get it good and warm it comes out of it and is fine. It sets no codes or turns on any lights. It did this two winters ago and I finally read somewhere to replace the mass airflow sensor, so I did and it seemed to fix it. It did not act up last winter at all but this winter it started doing it again. So I replaced the mass airflow sensor again but it did not seem to make a difference.
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Was getting around 52.5 MPG in warmer weather, changed the tranny fluid and normally people report an increase in MPG. We're now getting around 50.5 MPG, so a 2 MPG loss. In addition, temps have gone from around mid-80s to mid-60s. Wondering if that would explain the MPG drop?
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I have a 2002 passat. It is a 1.8T. I have a stock turbo, it has a full aftermarket front mount hooked up. It also has a blow off valve. OK my issue is that I believe it runs too rich. When I drive the idle will drop and the car will stall out. It has its good days and bad days. What can I do to make this not happen? Would I have to have a recirculate the air flow again? Should I have everything stock again? Would anything else stop this happening? As well as how much PSI does this car stock suss posed to push? I have a boost meter that only reads max 5 psi. Should it be more? I am new to VW and brought the car off a friend.
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I've made posts about a rough idle before now I noticed something new about it. I noticed when I approach a red light the vibrations don't start immediately. They start as soon as the RPMS would drop a little. They stay above 500 but it seems like it's below 750. As if the engine is slightly starved from power? Now i'm wondering if it could be related to another problem I have.
Whenever I start the car, the battery light flickers until the car is started all the way. This is on a 2007 Camry 4 cylinder. So far everything iv'e done is: New NGK Spark Plugs, NEW OEM mounts (all 4) Seafoamed the engine, Seafoamed the throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor, New air filter, and cleaned the air filter box, replaced the PCV Vlave, new belt, new alternator (duralast), and a new battery (from autozone).
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Here are my issues.
1. In drive under load during braking especially when the AC is on the car shakes. I can put it in to neutral and it works but when in drive or reverse especially with AC the car shakes. (not just a little bit)
2. The RPMs are settling around 400-500 so the stuttering makes since.
3. Feels like everything effects my Idle RPM speed (breaks, steering, AC, power windows lol!)
I am thinking possible fixes from research
1. ECU Reset with everything on AC/Lights/ Im planning on mashing on the breaks 2 see if the extra power usage work.
2. Throttle Body cleaning
3. Alternator could be bad
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2002 Passat v6 - climatronic control...
I have just cold air blowing at idle and under load. I have read posts and checked the following: temp remains at 190, heater coil hoses-both are hot and removed the dash to see if the flapper door (red arm) was moving-it is. Any other things I can check?
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I cannot get the heater to move heat to the floor in my 02 Camry LE I-4? All other modes seem to function just fine.
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I have 02 camry xle with digital a/c , the a/c only works on max cold, if i set the temp to 65 ot 70 ot any number it will become heat ,
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02 Camry with 202k. Recently my car has been blowing cold air only when it's on heat. Then it will start to overheat causing me to stop and pull over and I see little smoke come out. Also it has been leaking antifreeze and when I make sharp turns or come to a stop I can hear water or something behind the dash...
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I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee L6 4.0 Liter automatic with 223,000 miles.
The oil pressure usually runs around 1/8-1/4 when driving around town and now I am getting temperature spikes. I had the coolant and water pump replaced last fall when I was having similar idling issues then. My coolant isn't a perfect green color--it is a little bit grey, but it is full. I cleaned the entire throttle body last January, cleaned the IAC today, and redid the NSS this week (not that this probably matters, just being thorough in my explanation).
It seems to happen worst on hot days (of course) when idling in traffic for a few minutes and makes the air conditioned air run warmer than it should.
Is this a busted radiator? The mechanic said I did not have a leak when I had him check last week.
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My 2002 Toyota Camry XLE keeps stalling when the car is idling. I recently replaced the battery and tested the alternator and they are both fine. What could be causing the stalling?
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So my 2002 Camry XLE V6 with ~132,000 miles has a little bit of a rough idle. It sounds like it's "breathing". It'll be rough for a second, smooth for a second, rough, smooth. It's not super rough where my steering wheel is really vibrating, but definitely noticeable. The RPM hovers around 500-600 and doesn't really fluctuate. On Sunday, the following was done with a friend:
- All 6 spark plugs with DENSO SK20R11
- OEM PCV valve, grommet, and hose
- OEM Air Filter
- OEM Cabin Filter
- OEM plenum gasket
We didn't do the head gasket and manifold gasket to save time and there was absolutely no oil on the coils or plugs. The car was very well maintained by the previous owner and by me since I got it at ~102,000 miles.
The car seems to surge sometimes. I'm not sure if that is the right word. Say if I turn left up a hill and hit the gas, the engine RPM will kind of surge up and then it'll shift. It's audibly noticeable. It's not smooth, but maybe it's just because it's a hill, I'm not sure
The idle seems about the same since before we did the plugs, which I thought doing the plugs would work. It almost seems like it might be worse and the MPG might be worse, but that may just be in my head.
Could it be the front motor mount? Maybe we should have cleaned the throttle body while we had it open.
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My car (2002 Camry, 65K Miles) stalls when I take foot off the gas pedal, this starter four days ago then it worked fine couple days later and the problem is back again. I did some research and cleaned throttle body, do I need to clean or replace IAC valve and EGR valve?
I also read on the forum to check the vaccum hoses for leaks, looking for more info on location fo the vacuum hoses and how to clean or replace them?
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It's only -3C (26 F) here in Toronto yet I can't roll down any of the windows on my 2013 SE, they are stuck/frozen. Never had this with any other car I owned - it would have to be a lot colder than that.
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I changed all of the brakes on her car yesterday, test drove it, everything was great. Put close to 100 miles on it w/ no issues. Therefore, I don't think it's anything I did.on her way to work, the CEL came on. The car has a rough-ish idle, and jerks slightly in low RPM. I went to Pep Boys and got it read. it threw 8 codes:
P0171
P1130
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
P0442
From what i've read, the p0171 is the system is running too lean and p0442 is a leak somewhere. The 300s are cyl misfires.I don't want to go replacing every conceivable part. What these codes mean in conjunction?
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today I replaced the battery on our 2002 Camry SE 2.4l because it was incredibly slow to crank today...but it did crank. So i get a Duralast Gold to replace a Toyota TrueStart battery, and it started up fine. However, it was idling at 200-400 RPMs, so its already not right. So I drive it a quick mile or so, and when letting off the gas the RPMs drop to 200-400 while going down the street! Coming to a stop, it really wanted to stall out. Couple stops later, it did stall out, and the Check Engine light, Battery light, and Oil light all came on. Trying to restart it it cranked, started, but then immediately died. You know when you start it the RPM needle goes high and then comes down a bit? It does that, but the needle won't stop and it just goes to 0, and throws the Check Engine, battery, and oil light. I finally got it cranked, and all 3 previously mentioned lights are off when its running. It has done it one other time about 3 months ago when I disconnected the negative battery terminal for some work, and it did the same exact thing. It ended up just fixing itself, but obviously not since its rough starting and the problem came back the next time I disconnected the battery.
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My wife has a 2002 Camry V6 SE with about 75k miles. Over the past 6 months the car has developed a problem. Every so often, say once every 2-3 weeks the car will start fine, but after driving for about 5-10 minutes, will start running rough and stall if I stop for a light. It will start again, (with a little effort) and will stall again at the next stop and so on. I can pull off the road, wait 10 minutes and the car will then run like a Swiss watch until the next episode.
I have taken the car to a respected mechanic and he sees nothing obvious wrong and there is no record in the car's computer of any problem. The last time this happened the car had been on the road for about 20 minutes before the stalling problem occurred. I kept the car going at idle by putting in neutral and increasing the throttle.
After we arrived home, the car cut out when we made it into the garage but a rotten egg-like smell was in the air in the garage. After about an hour, the car stated immediately and ran like a top. That was about a week ago and no problems since. I have read in the threads about EGRs Throttle bodies etc.
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Our 2002 Camry is in very good condition with ~75k miles. The other day we went to start the car up and it wouldn't turn over. The car would turn a couple of times and then start clicking. We jumped the car and I hopped in to take it to our local mechanic. I instantly noticed during the entire trip to the mechanic that the idle was very slow and chugging. Like it wanted to die anytime I was stopped.
I got to the mechanic and pulled in the lot. The car died. However, I was able to start it up again with no issues. A day later I get a call from the mechanic telling me that they had no issues starting the car whatsoever. They said the battery was a little weak so they replaced it (it was the original battery). I was also told that I might consider changing the spark plugs in the near future. Otherwise they said the car was running great.
After getting the car home I am once again noticing the low/chugging idle. It doesn't seem anywhere near as bad as before, but it is there sometimes.
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I have an 02 250 5.4. 103,000 miles. My truck at random times will not start in below freezing temps. Turns over just fine but Acts as if a frozen fuel line. I can get it running by pouring hot water on the fuel rail or a shot of starting fluid or sometimes both. It's been going on about 3 or 4 weeks now and I have ran through 4 bottles of dry gas with about 15 gallons each time. Also have replaced fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. I'm 99.9% positive the pump is working and there are no leaks in the lines or holes in tank that I can see. My next step is to drop the tank and clean it out but trying to avoid that.
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