Camry :: 2002 Azura V6 Sound System Rebooting And Heater Fan Stop And Start
Aug 20, 2014
I have an intermittent electrical problem that I thought was the alternator but my mechanic says isn't. Every now and then the sound system will start rebooting and the heater fan may stop and start.
Normally voltage across the battery is about 13.8v or more. At times the car changes into the error state which continues until the car is restarted. It may then or may not re-enter the problem state.
When the car is in the state where the radio re-starts, the voltage across the battery drops to around 13.2v. The two big fans on the radiator start and stop according to the thermostatic control. It is this startup that causes the radio to restart etc. I got one flash on my multimeter of a drop to 12.8v across the battery on the start. This would be due to extra draw to start the fan motors and is usually too fast for my multimeter to react to.
Entering problem state might happen once a month. It seems more likely on long trips and is so intermittent it is hard to diagnose. Its start coincided with the replacement of the head unit with an after market one. I have checked repeatedly for loose wires behind that unit that are shorting out, now I am thinking it is somewhere in the charging circuit.
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Today my Media system rebooted twice while playing a CD...
The first time it happened was right on start of the car. Was stuck at the confirm "you know how to drive" screen then it rebooted and came up fine.
The next time was at the end of my drive went to lower the volume. The volume bar updated, but the actual volume of the system didn't change. The system then rebooted and came back up fine.
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I recently purchased a 2002 camry 2.4l 198k miles from a friend. His mechanic said engine was on it's way out so the next day after work the car didn't turn on so he thought his mechanic was right. So he told me about it and said it needed a new engine so me being a guy that likes to purchase broken down things I got it. I had it towed home and was going to mess with it on my free time.
So today I got under the hood and first thing I did was spray starting fluid in the intake. It turned on and was running good then shut off. First thing I'm thinking is fuel pump. When I disconnected the fuel line to the fuel rail and primed it it had fuel gushing out.
So now I want to check if the fuel pressure is right. I know the 5th generation camrys have a different fuel system that's kinda new to me. ( I know I'm out dated, I mess with diesels and older Hondas) so my question is what steps or processes of elimination steps should I take to keep this car running? How do I test the fuel pressure system on this car? Oh and before I purchased the car he said he "super filled up" the tank.
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I drove my '02 Camry last night to a restaurant and when I came out it would not start. I have never had any problems with my Camry. I have a new strong battery.
All the lights, bells, radio, a/c, door locks, dash lights came on and work fine. There was no clicking sound of the starter. It would not turn over at all. NO SOUND AT ALL. I did move the shifter handle several times thinking it may have been the kill switch on the shifter.
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It blows luke warm air, no hot or no AC just luke warm... what could it be?
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About a year ago after I got my oil changed I assumed they spilled oil when filling it at the shop. I actually had smoke coming through my vents at first. The smell has been there intermittently ever since but only when the heater is in use, not when AC is used. What could have been the cause? What should I check? Is there a cabin air filter that should be changed?
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I cannot get the heater to move heat to the floor in my 02 Camry LE I-4? All other modes seem to function just fine.
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I've had this problem with my 08 v6 camry se recently: when i first start my car and stop at a stop light my transmission will seem to disengage or not switch gears properly resulting in me redlining and not being able to accelerate properly. shortly after everything returns back to normal and the problem goes away on its own never to return until i begin the process all over again.
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I just put a heater core in a friends passat that was running just fine, drove it into the shop. I pulled the dash and replaced the heater core and put it all back together. Everything works, starter turns over and all but wont fire. I went over everything numerous times to find anything unplugged but all looks fine. Says something about an airbag fault when you turn on the key. Would this prevent startup? what can I do?
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Just got a P1135 Code on the 1MZ-FE 2002 Camry.
My code reader pulls it up as (no typo below) : AirCFuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction.
So I know it's a bad Air/Fuel sensor. Which one though? I replaced the rear sensor by the firewall about 6 months ago which fixed the check engine code (I don't remember the code). Would it make sense that the front one failed now or the back one failed again? Most of my research points me to a bad rear sensor however a lot of people also report that a code reader would report the sensor as "Bank 1 Sensor 1".
The rear sensor was replaced with a Denso 234-9042 Sensor.
I would play the replace and test game... however inspection is due within the month and after resetting the code, it usually takes about 50 miles to return. Being in college, 50 miles takes about 2 weeks.
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247,000 miles on '98 Toyota Camry as of last summer, car owed us nothing. Suddenly lost oil a month after regular oil change, ruined engine. Mechanic found used engine from totaled car (w/ approx 65,000 miles). Current problems:
1. speedometer/odometer not working,
2. heater/blower stopped working this week, blower makes a LOUD, HIGH FREQUENCY sound, sort of like a siren.
Was hoping to get another 2 years from her considering recent cash outlay. The mechanic couldn't figure out issue #1, and he hasn't looked at it since #2 started this week. I guess we can live w/ issue #1, but #2 has to be fixed ...
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I have a 2002 Camry V6 US model. I need to replace the Oxygen Sensor that is on the front (beginning) of the Front Exhaust Pipe Assy, just before the other sensor which is on the curved part of the front exhaust.
When looking at the DENSO website, it lists two sensors BEFORE the catalytic convertor and two AFTER it. I don't see ANY sensors after the convertor(s), nor does the Toyota Camry shop service manual show them.
Are there only two or are there more than two? Also, what is bank 1 and bank 2? I'm assuming bank 1 is the front cylinders and bank two are the rear (towards the windshield).
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I have a 2002 Camry XLE with 43k miles. When i accelerate from stop too quickly its as if the car cannot shift gears or something quick enough. It just stutters and then picks up as if nothing happened? This only happens when accelerating from zero.
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I have a gen2 2007 prius (right hand drive). Problem I am having is [INTERMITTENT]when pressing the ignition button to turn off the car. When I press the button the system completely shuts down instantly and rather roughly and nothing is active (the Key is still in). I then remove the key and the system starts up! I then press the button to stop the system, put the key back in and restart it. It then works fine - until the next time. Clock resets itself as does the climate controls. Not sure what to make of this. I have just recently replaced the 12v battery in the boot.
PS. Forgot to mention that when the system goes dead, if I fold down back seat and thump the floor panel above the battery under the seat the system goes on?? Any clues. Will take it to mechanic as soon as he gets back from holiday!
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I have a 2015 XSE w/ JBL sound system. 14k miles. ALL sound from the radio (even the beep when you press the touch screen) will intermittently cut out - usually after I hit a small bump in the road. Once the sound is off it stays off for several minutes, then it might turn back on again or might stay off for the entire ride.
The dealer replaced the radio communication box - didn't fix it. Now the dealer is ordering a new radio head unit and will replace that. I'm concerned because this will be my 3rd time going to the dealer for this repair and I'm not sure they've really root caused the problem. I would have thought that the dealer would be able to track down exactly what was failing (either a system or wiring problem) before starting to attempt repairs.
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Basically, my JBL will intermittently only play sound from the tweeters. Sometimes it does this, sometimes it plays like normal (i.e. from all the speakers; therefore, I don't think the other speakers are blown). It's only happened to me twice, so I have yet to notice a pattern, but I suspect it may have something to do with the Bluetooth capability. It's just a guess, and I'm sure an unlikely one, but that's about it. I figure it could also be wiring, which I will find out when I take the area apart to get a closer look. But since it's playing from the tweeters that makes wiring or connection an unlikely culprit, right? It's not a major problem, just annoying, that's all.
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Hit a nasty speed bump and now the exhaust system on my 97 Camry is making a new sound. I see a cylinder shape which looks like the outside of woven basket. Did the cover come off my catalytic converter? (I was carrying six adults on a Mass. state park road that was as level as the Appalachian mountains with a speed bump half of which had been stolen by local bears.)
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This is a 2002 4 Cylinder Camry XLE.It gets cold when running down the highway, but at a stop , AC gets warm.I have replace the cabin filer. A couple of years ago, replaced the AC MAG Clutch Relay, when AC light was blinking.But now I feel the condenser in front of the radiator and it feels very hot, and the fans never seem to come on.I can see the 3 Fan relays, and not sure where the ECT sensor is located, or whether that would be the problem.If the fans arent coming on at all, you would think the car would overheat?
Tested the motor on one of the two, with direct 12 volts to it, and it did not run.Tested the disconnected cable that would be supplying voltage to that motor and it read 13+ volts. So I would think it was a bad motor, but I would like to see the voltage on that disconnected motor go to zero, but not sure if that happens, or when?Guy suggested at parts place that sells the Two Motors, Fans, and Shield all as one unit for less than $100, that maybe the motor burned out because it was running all the time.
WHen should the electric motors not be receiving power?I read somewhere that when car starts that both are on low speed, and Always on when AC is on. But do one or both ever turn off? If I pull this shroud out with the two motors and buy the replacement, I just don't want to have the motor blow out, because there is something making it run all of the time.
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This is my brother's 02 SE. 140k miles. 4cyl. He claims that the car is beginning to idle rough when he is stopped at a stop light and the AC is on. If i replace the spark plugs should that do it? I'm pretty sure it doesn't have spark plug wires cus that's what my dealer parts dept said. Motor mounts were replaced around 70k if that matters. The vibration is directly related to the AC being on.
I am also going to replace the serp. belt because there's a belt squeak when the motor is cold.
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I purchased a used 2002 Camry [above model] with 99K miles on it in March, 2009. This is my 3rd Camry as the first, 1986 had 256K and the 1997 had 252K. I was very pleased with the 86 & 97 and very displeased with this new one!
I have problems with the engaging stalling, surging at stop signs as well as problems at about 40 mph.
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My 02 camry recently started dying at a stop and would not idle above 1000 rpm. I cleaned the throttle body(very dirty) and the car started right up idling at about 1500-2000 rpm i walked away for a minute and came by to drive it and no acceleration would come as well as when i start it up now it just goes back to idle at about 500 rpm.
I am not sure what the problem may be, my air filter box is not on properly I am going back to the car to tighten it down today but i highly doubt it will fix anything. I also read something about the computer needing reset, if i go and unhook the batter for 30 min and hook it back up will the computer reset and possibly fix my acceleration problem?
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