Camry :: 2002 - After Leaving Home Engine Just Died After About Half Mile Of Drive
Mar 13, 2013
2002 Camry XLE. 134,000 miles. 1MX-FE 6cyl.
The timing belt was replaced by the Toyota Dealer in Sept 2011 at 101000 miles.
Yesterday after leaving home the engine just died about 1/2 mile from home. No warning, just died.
I tried to start it, the engine will turn over but won't start. It spins freely but doesn't sound like there is any compression.
The coolant reservoir was empty. I checked the fluids a week or so ago and it was full.
So:
1. Does this sound like a timing belt failure?
2. Is it possible that the water pump went out and trashed the timing belt?
3. Or, could the timing belt just be bad?
4. I've read that this engine is a non-inteferrence engine, is that true?
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Here's what I'm dealing with. Took the truck on a 1500 mile trip with no issues. Got home and started it the next morning and it started right up. 1/2 mile from home it starts to run rough and wants to die. It does this for a few minutes and then perks back up and runs fine for however long the trip is. It will always re fire and have no issues. Every morning it's the same game as described above. Within 1/2 from home it's doing this. Seems to be fuel delivery related, but why would it start after sitting overnight, and then after its little fit, run without an issue?
No codes in computer.
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Do you think it would shorten the life of the hybrid battery if I make a habit of really trying to EV in the last mile of arriving home?
Tonight, I accelerated quite slow after the last stop to stay on battery, but I noticed the battery bars got down to 2.
Got to wondering, if I do this a lot, might it shorten the traction battery life such that it fails at 11 yrs, for example, instead of 14 years?
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Car just stopped, she said. Wouldn't go. Police told her to try to move it; it ran okay, she said.
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i have a 03 gti vr6. 24v 6 speed. it started losing coolant the other day. but the thing is the radiator all the hoses and the water pump(s) are all dry. its fine when its cold, holds coolant just fine. but when it warms up its only fine at idle, so im guessing its some sort of pressure related leak. the car goes through half a gallon every mile or so. only the inner fender on the left side is soaked and the suspension components on that side as well.
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I drive a mile to and from work. Just as I pull in to park the engine dies. It will crank but won't catch. I let sit overnight and the next day it starts ands gets me to just as i am parking at home and dies. What is wrong with my truck? I was thinking clogged fuel filter. Let's a little fuel through the line at night which is used up on the trip. When line empty car dies. Then slowly fills line again over night.
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While driving at night, my battery and break light came on on the dashboard. About 50 minutes later, my car can no longer travel faster than 5mph. The engine was not able to rev up when it is in Drive, but it was able to rev up the when I put it in Park or Neutral. Finally it died, while traveling at 5mph.
Had a friend jump started the car, but was not able to travel over 5mph. Then it died shortly.
So is this the alternator? I'm hesitant to think it is the alternator, because the engine was able to rev up when it is in Park and Neutral.
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Just bought an 02' camry and the high mount brake light on the spoiler is half burnt out. Tried removing what I'm guessing is an LED assembly but the screws are stuck and the angle is really awkward. Am I going to have to replace the whole LED bar?
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Short Version. 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan, I two weeks ago I replaced the front brakes (rotors, calipers, and pads both sides) I drove the van 100 miles Saturday night with no problems. Sunday afternoon, whilst driving home from a restaurant with 5 people in the van (driving super gingerly because they were my inlaws) the right front brake stuck on and smoked on the drive home. The calipers are new, and I have not had any other problems since I replaced the brakes that were trashed when I got it.
Long version, So heres the deal, I am the proud owner of a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan, its got about 140,000 miles on it, its a little rusty, but I got it for free. A family member was getting rid of it, as it was 11 years old, and they wanted something newer, and it needed brakes and a few other things. They were going to donate it, but it sat all winter waiting for the donation company to pick it up. Being a consummate grease monkey elite shade tree mechanic tinkerer type, and being in the new family, new house cash flow situation, I swooped in and towed it home in hopes that I could make a decent enough ride that I could fit two adults, a car seat and a dog into.
Now when I got the van I knew it had some problems. That's the reason it was free. But it is/was all fixable stuff. Typical of age and mileage It had a whiny power steering pump, it needed an oil change, the power steering lines leaked, the transmission cooler lines needed to be replaced. It needed a serpentine belt. It has a motor mount that needs replacing. The front suspension clunked because of worn out swaybar bushings and end link Its a bunch of work and few weekends and a few hundred in parts, but when the van was free, and you do the work yourself it costs a lot less.
The front brakes were completely trashed when I got the van, that is one of the reasons that the previous owner had parked it. And it was obvious that the right front caliper had seized, I could not push the piston back in. And that was the one that seized on, and had the most damages so I replaced it, along with the left front, as it was also the original one, and well they were both the same age, and have the stuff to bleed the brakes out. So what causes disk brake calipers to randomly stick on when they are used gently? Because when I drive it angry, such as now, they seem fine.
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Recently bought a used 2002 Camry LE. Ran fine the first couple days I had it, however the first day I tried driving to work in the morning(how poetic), it stalled and died in the middle of the highway when I slowed down.
The first tips I had were to clean the throttle body and/or clean the mass airflow sensor. I did both of these things and the car will actually drive and not stall when stopping now, but the idle is horrendously low still. On a cold start the idle will sit at about 1000-1100 RPM. However, when it's been on long enough to be warm/hot the idle will drop to about 300-400(ish) when sitting in park, and about 600 when in drive sitting at a stop. Took it to a shop and they had no idea why it's so low and suggested I start by replacing the mass airflow sensor to see if the sensor is just going bad.
Planning on replacing the sensor regardless as soon as possible but just gathering any information I can.
When I'm accelerating slowly, my gas pedal vibrates when the car is about to shift up. Just a very subtle vibration but noticeable by anyone driving it. Happens just a second or two before it shifts up then goes away after the shift, then again when it shifts up, etc. It doesn't happen if I'm accelerating quickly though. Say when I'm going to get on the highway. Only when it's a slower speed up like in town between traffic lights or something. I was told this could possibly be a transmission issue? Is there anyway to check for sure or should I just have a transmission shop look at it?
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So my 07 gs350 120k miles decided she didn't want to start this morning. She fired up for a half a second, then died.
Pushing the start button everything else works but she won't crank. Dash says Check VSC and cooling fan runs right away (cold engine) and keeps running (very strange). Charged battery (OFTEN THIS MEANS THE BATTERY IS WEAK< SO JUMP START BTW) , disconnect/reconnect battery 5 minutes. Did not work. Battery charged and good. Jiggled auto shifter in and out of park to make sure it was in park. Didnt work.
Ended up being the Fuel Pressure Sensor under the throttle body above bellhousing , back of motor. You can check either cam timing sensor (3 wire, single bolt on top near front of valve cover, blue wire for 5V reference. If no 5V then the pressure sensor is shorted, replace.
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According to the navigation manual (attached), the navigation screen should go to the home screen within 5 seconds. But my IS never goes to the home screen without pressing the home button, but it always shows the full screen map. I tried many different things including "Auto Screen Change" setting but nothing seems to work.
2015 IS250 AWD
Nebula Gray/Stratus Gray
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I have a 2002 Nissan Xterra with 94K miles on it. Sometimes after I start the car it shakes and sputters. This has been going on for a couple weeks and I didn't really think anything of it. Today as I was backing out of a spot, the car started shaking again and then the engine died and the check engine light came on. What that could be?
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My 2002 Dakota with a 3.9 (200,000 miles)has a problem that I cannot seem to cure.When I start the engine it never hesitates....it starts without a problem. No excess cranking...it fires up as it always did.It does run a bit rough as if ONE cylinder is missing every few revolutions. If I let it idle in the driveway for five minutes it will clear up and run fine. But if I take off right away the following will happen.I put it in gear (automatic) and for the first mile or two it runs as though the plug wires (More than one) are wet and arcing. I can barely get above 25mph. it will spit and sputter for that first mile or two.
Then suddenly it will clear up and surge....probably because I have loaded the system with excess fuel......and after it clears up , I have no other problems with it weather I'm on a long trip or a short one. If I stop for more than 15minutes, I have to go thru all this again.I've had vehicles that acted like this after a hard rain because the plug wires were old and arcing...that's why I use that as a description.I also noticed that the other day right at the end of a big downpour it took at least 5 miles to clear up.
Before this rainstorm I had replaced the plugs, wires, rotor and cap, while inside the shop so everything should have been bone dry except for all the humidity from the storm. After starting I checked for any arcing while in the dark shop and even moved a few wires that were touching and no arcing was seen from the cap, wires or coil. I also changed out all those parts 6 months ago when I did a major tune up, but it ran fine untill about two months ago.
When this started two months ago is was just a rare occurrence and my mechanic thought that I had gotten some gas with water in it. He had me run a few bottles of injector cleaner it the next few fill-ups and I've run a few bottles of heet through it also. In the last two weeks it has been doing this every time I start up. When this did start showing up it would show a code of a random misfire and the engine light would come on even though I felt no signs of a misfire myself. The light would stay on for a day or two then go back off. A few days later it was back on.I thought that I fixed the problem because the light stayed off for a month.
So it has been only the last two weeks that it bucks and kicks so bad at a startup, but you would think that an engine misfire would show up and the engine light come on. By the way the light does work. Now, I never get a engine light on, and he found no codes in the history. I have my own scanner, but his can do so much more. I never find any codes also. My mechanic ran some diagnostic's and found an up-stream 0,2 sensor bad so we replaced that.
Yesterday I dropped the tank, pulled the pump and cleaned the tank real good. The only filter is the sock on the pump and that was clean. I refilled with fresh gas and I still have the same problem. So I think that we can eliminate water in the fuel, plugs, wires, rotor, and cap. My next thought is the cam sensor in the distributor.
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Well, I was pretty certain the throttle body was bad, since my son stepped on the gas and it would not open at all once, and then only did so in slow steps. So the "new" TB is installed.
The major problem I was having at the end has gone away (so far), in that the engine just choked down and died on crank. But it is still trying to get to idle rpm, and doing a poor job, on startup. Starts to drop low, then revs high, then low, then higher before settling in. And I still have hesitation when accelerating. So now I have to look at something else.
No codes are being thrown. Already have new plugs, as the old were horrible. I've cleaned the MAF, and the TB is "new" now (no idea if this junker one is 100% OK, but should be). No vacuum leaks I am aware of or have evidence of. Still may be a tank of shitty gas, as the worst of it came after a fill up. I did put that Heat stuff in the tank to get rid of water, if there was some, so my gas mix may be wonky.
I know I have cylinder issues, as my plugs are carboning up badly, and looking oil fouled. I burn about a quart per 1k or so, so will be trying a solvent soak soon. I suppose I will have the dealer do a diag and let me know if my timing is off or something like that. May have to check my fuel pressure, etc.
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Obviously I'll have the oil changed, but Toyota recommends all this other stuff at 30k and my local dealer wants about 250$ for it. It looks like the same stuff they do with my regular oil changes but now want 250$ to do it. Seems like somewhat of a rip off.
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Bought my Camry with 25k miles on it, and had the dealer change the oil and reset the light first thing. Now I'm at 30k miles and the light has come on. I am following the 10k mile OCI.
So is this Maintenance required light going to come on every 5k miles to remind me of tire rotations and whatnot in between my 10k mile oil change intervals?
Should just turn it off now and wait until 35k miles (when it comes on again im suspecting) to get the oil changed?
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I've been having some problem with my 2002 Camry lately. It started when I was exiting off highway waiting at a stop light when my car just suddenly stop, while the car was still in drive. The battery light, engine light, and oil light came even though the music was still playing. So I put the car to park, turn the key to completely turn off the car and restart the car.
At first it sound like the car was going to start but as I turn the key and keep holding it for the car to start all the way, it just die again. I try again but this time I step on the gas pedal at the same time I turn the key and after two or three press on the gas pedal, the car work and all the light was off. Everything was fine. This would happen every other day and I would do the same thing to it but don't know why this is happening.
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On the way into town, leaving a intersection lost all forward movement coasted to a parking lot. second gear would hold, drove home about six miles. When home put into reverse hear it go into gear , but slip. All other forward gears same, hear go into gear but slip, except second would hold. I think low fluid, or mechanical problem about 155000 miles. 2002 Mercury Mountaineer.
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What happened to my 02 mk4 Jetta after start up and engine failure.
I started the engine, and noticed a high squealing sound just like a loose fan belt, as I backed out my driveway the Battery light came on and engine died, when I tried to re-start the engine it doesn't make any cranking sound just a whirring sound.
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I replaced the front hubs and bearings on my brothers 2002 Camry today. He drove less than a block and developed awful grinding noise and it won't move in reverse or drive. It rolls when I put it in park. I had to pull it back into my shop. Is it possible the inner CV came loose and i didn't realize it? It all seemed to go back together fine. The new CV axle nuts were quite tight and slow to put on with my impact gun.
What else could possible go kaput when I re & re hub/bearings? And what a long ugly job to replace those bearings. Don't even think about doing this without a good hydraulic press. Up to the point of getting knuckle off, it was easy job.
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