Camry :: 2002 A/F Ratio Sensor N/A - Car Stays In Closed Loop
Jan 10, 2013
2002 LE 2.4 A/T 85k miles. all maintenance up to date.
I got a CEL P0420 last night, car ran fine for 85 miles so I could get home. Hook scan tool up to look at sensor outputs, and found that the A/F ratio sensor is N/A. And that the car is never going into open loop. Coolant temp stays around 185 at 55 mph and will only hit 200 if I hold it at around 2500 RPM in neutral while stopped. Even on the highway it stays in closed loop.
I know about the P0420 catalyst code every Camry I have ever had eventually gets it. But could it be caused by staying in closed loop for extended periods of time? Should I replace the thermostat to try to get the engine temp up?
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Check engine light with code 0125. This code indicates low coolant temp for closed loop fuel control. Well I have changed the thermostat, engine temp sensor and new coolant. After driving approx. 5 miles the light came on again.
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From what I could understand is that it is some type of emissions strategy from the pcm, how to over ride it.
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7.3 XLT 2002 -- Dome light stays on when doors closed ...
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02 Camry 4 cyl.
If the thermostat ain't opening and is stuck shut, will the temperature gauge climb pretty quickly? right? I am in the process of flushing my radiator.
- I drained radiator, changed the T-stat with new OEM one and then filled with distilled water. (Ensured the jiggle valve is at 12 o clock)
- I idled the motor with cap off, heater on and purged the system of air... topped off with distilled water, waited till the fans came on etc...
- Temperature gauge reads in the normal range... even after 15 mile drive...
But, I expected the water to mix with old coolant left over and change color that hasn't happened... hence wondering.
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I have been debugging DTC codes 2237/2238 and what sounds like detonation in a failed catalytic converter in my old 2007 Prius (375,000 miles!), I just removed the wipers and cowl yesterday to look at the air/fuel ratio sensor connection, and my connector appears to be melted somewhat, sides of the connector show signs of melting I am guessing that there is a connection problem stemming from this and the root cause of my DTC codes.
Can the four wires each side be removed so I can get the connector out to look at it carefully?
Can the bad connector be removed and the four wires be simply spliced together to get the air/fuel sensor working again? I did note that the colors of the wires going in are NOT the same as the colors of the wires going out.
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I am getting code p0420 and want to replace the air/fuel ratio sensor and cannot figure out who to reach and remove the connector to the sensor. How to do it? I read several threads about it and saw instructions for the rear O2 sensor but not the fwd air/fuel ratio sensor.
I hope to remove it from below and avoid removing the inverter. From under the car I can see the cable leaving the sensor and I think I see it terminating in a connector on the left side of the engine. I can barely snake my arm up there and touch it, but I cannot get a good enough grip to press a release button and pull it free.
I got the rear O2 sensor changed in about 45 minutes.
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My dome light stays on and green when my doors are closed and the door button is pressed. They light up bright white and normal in use but don't completely turned off unless I unpress the door button...
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I drive a 02' Camry SE V6 ... The VSC, TRAC OFF, and the Engine check light appeared one day shortly after I started the car. Along with that, I have to push the gas pedal all the way down for the car to move; smooth launch, opposite of full throttle, and the RPM stays at 2000 unless I pump the pedal. A few restarts later, all of the lights disappear but the throttle problem remains.
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Son was driving his car today and the roads were patchy ice leaving the addition. As he went around a turn the car started to slip and traction control kicked in. Right after that the trac off light came on and won't go off. Tried recycling the trac switch on and off to no avail. Tried to check the fuse but can't find where it is located.
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I have a 2002 Celica GT and the cooling loop on the power steering that runs out in front of the radiator (or AC condenser) is cracked and leaking. I need to replace it, I have a few questions:
- Where to get a replacement, likely Toyota?
- Find out how much work it is to replace myself?
- Does the system auto bleed any air or will I have to bleed it?
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I had a dead battery in my 2002 Solara. After I had it replaced the indicator lights on the dash would stay on. Also the fan blower will keep running if not turned off. So I have accessories running with the key in the off position. I have checked all fuses and they appear good. Bad ignition switch?
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I got an 04 Nissan Sentra and I got a (P1273 Nissan - Air Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 Lean Shift Monitoring Bank 1) code that popped up on it. Looking to see what the probable cause for this code to pop up? Is this a rare code that popped up on this car? There's no noticeable symptoms going on with the car.
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I really liked the steering response of the SE (i.e. the wheels turn further for given turn of the steering wheel.) But we found the SEs ride/comfort, especially for the passenger seat to be a deal-breaker.So, is there a way to modify an LE to give it the steering ratio of the SE? (Im wondering whether the dealer could change an option setting in the computer, or maybe chip, board, or other part could be swapped for the SEs version.)
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This seems to happen a lot when it gets really cold out. Started happening a few weeks ago. Sometimes if I notice the light starts to flicker on, at a stoplight I'll open the door, push down the rubber button that triggers the light, and shut the door. It'll usually stay off for a little bit.
I noticed that there's a little dent on the door where it presses against the button, and I'm wondering if that's a possible reason why this issue is happening.
I have a 1997 Honda Accord LX....
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Recently, my I4 XLE camry with abs came up with a cel P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor A Malfunction. Where the vehicle speed sensor is located? i doubt this thing's hard to service, but so far i have no luck finding it.
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So my 02 Camry V6 has the check engine light on. I had them scan at AutoZone. the codes that came up were P1130 and P1135. After reading some threads here, seems like it's the A/F sensor?
Just to confirm, there are two A/F sensors in the V6 model? I can see the front one easily but not the rear one. Need to identify which sensor needs replacement?
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The computer is returning P1379 camshaft position sensor. Where is this sensor located on a 2002 Toyota Camry 2.4L and how easy would you rate the job of replacing it?
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Just got a P1135 Code on the 1MZ-FE 2002 Camry.
My code reader pulls it up as (no typo below) : AirCFuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction.
So I know it's a bad Air/Fuel sensor. Which one though? I replaced the rear sensor by the firewall about 6 months ago which fixed the check engine code (I don't remember the code). Would it make sense that the front one failed now or the back one failed again? Most of my research points me to a bad rear sensor however a lot of people also report that a code reader would report the sensor as "Bank 1 Sensor 1".
The rear sensor was replaced with a Denso 234-9042 Sensor.
I would play the replace and test game... however inspection is due within the month and after resetting the code, it usually takes about 50 miles to return. Being in college, 50 miles takes about 2 weeks.
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I have a 2002 F450 2WD AT with the common Dana 80 4.88:1 posi rear diff. If I change the ring & pinion to 4:10 do I need to change the carrier or does my current carrier fit 4:10 & lower [4.63,4.88, 5.13 etc]? Will I need to adjust my speedo readings & if so how is this accomplished? Electronically via the diagnostic port?
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I have a 1995 lumina. Yesterday the oil light came on. There is plenty of oil but the light stays on. I'm thinking it is either the oil pump or the sensor. How do I determine which???
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