Camry :: 2002 - 4 Cylinder Smoking After 10 Minute Warm Up?
Oct 16, 2013
So i have a 2002 camry LE 4 cylinder, it has about 173000 miles on it. It belonged to my dad and I bought it off him in June. My dad has always been religious about getting it serviced so it's not like the car is on its last legs or anything. I've driven the car myself probably for 40-50k of those miles while I was living with him, and occasionally when he goes on vacation. The car would always run smooth and other than worn brakes was in tip top condition for a car with its age and mileage.
Anyway, I went to get my oil changed on the 5th. Got out and the car felt zippy and all that good stuff. One week later, I'm parking at home after running errands. As I pull into the spot I notice some faint white smoke coming from under the hood. I pop the hood and see the smoke coming from behind the radiator. No real one spot that the smoke is coming from, but emanating from the middle, behind the radiator up towards the top. I checked the coolant reservoir as my girlfriends old car used to go through periodic overheating due to her never taking care of it, and I'd usually fill it up and make sure the radiator was full and that would be that.
So the reservoir is basically bone dry, I add coolant to the line and I check the radiator. The coolant in the radiator is filled to the top when I go to fill it. I take the car out later that night and it's still smoking slightly. The smoke doesn't start until the car's been running for about 10 minutes or so, which I'm guessing is how long it takes for the underhood components to warm up enough to vaporize the liquids in there. The temperature gauge is always smack dab in the middle while I'm driving and the car is smoking. The smoke is white and there's not a ton of it.
Monday I check the reservoir tank and it's empty again, I refill it and there's still smoke after 10 minutes. Luckily, I work 10 minutes away so I'm just getting to work/home when the smoke starts. I'm planning on taking it in to a radiator specialist on Saturday morning but curious what the community thinks it might be. I'm totally car ignorant so a self repair is kind of out of the question.
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Yesterday the AC worked fine, until I got off work. Then it was blowing as usual, but almost warm air, it wasn't enough to cool the car. When driving and I turn it on, I do see the RPM's lower slightly. A co-worker looked at the compressor and clutch while I turned it on and he said they both are working. He did not see any bubbles in the little window on the line though. The light on the control button is not blinking and the in cabin filter isn't dirty.
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I just bought a used Toyota Avalon with 135,500 miles on it. They sold it because it was smoking and didn't know what was wrong with it(they were an old retired couple). They were the only owners and it has never been driven hard or abused.... Anyway. I read online that unhooking the vacuum hose from the pcv valve may make it stop smoking. I unhooked it and plugged the vacuum hose and they were right. It stopped smoking after I got the rest of the oil out of the hose. I thought maybe the old pcv valve was messed up so I got a new one and hooked it back up but then smoking was back. So I am getting too much blow by in it for sure. I don't think the valve seals are leaking because as soon as I unhooked the vacuum from the pcv valve the smoking stopped. I drove it for 2 days with no smoke whatsoever. What could be causing the blow by to be so strong? It was strong enough to spit oil out of the pcv valve without the vacuum hose sucking it out(there was oil on the engine).
The check engine light is also on so I hooked it up to a computer at an auto parts store and it said I had a misfire on 2 cylinders(2 and 6). So I changed all the spark plugs and re-hooked it to the machine. This time I only got an error code for cylinder 2. Each plug has a coil so I switched the coil from cylinder 4 to cylinder 2 to test if maybe the coil was bad, but it still gave me a misfire on cylinder 2 only. I even swapped the plug from 2 to 4 to make sure the new plug wasn't bad. Still a misfire on cylinder 2. It is still smoking(ONLY WHEN VACUUM HOSE IS ON PCV VALVE) and check engine light is still on and error code says cylinder 2 misfire.
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Got a rebuilt head for my metro from a very reputable ebay seller/shop, and it smokes pretty badly after installation. I checked my pcv valve and it has vacuum at idle, and the hose is not plugged. Performed a compression check- 180 on all cylinders- okay for my car. Called the shop to see if maybe they forgot to install the valve seals, and they insisted that there is no way they would forget that.
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I have a question about smelling burning oil. I have a 2005 passat 1.8t (4 motion) with 80,000 miles. Once in a while I smell what smells to be burning oil. It usually happens when the car is warm and sits and idles for a min. like when you would be at a stop sign and doesn't last long. There doesn't seem to be any blue smoke coming from the exhaust either....
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I recently changed my timing chain on my 2002 Camry XLE and now it won't start. I have done this twice before on different camrys but it is the first time this happens. I don't have spark on cyl 2 and 4. I checked all connections from the ignition coils to the ECM, no opens or shorts. All ignition grounds are good also. I check the continuity from the Crank and Cam sensors to the ECM and they are good. The timing chain was put in like the repair manual says. There is fuel pressure and good battery voltage so I am now stuck.
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I got a deal on a1997 f450 7.3 what does it take to swap to 2001 f250 7.3.mine has a bad cylinder with smoking nd low compression.
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This is a 2002 4 Cylinder Camry XLE.It gets cold when running down the highway, but at a stop , AC gets warm.I have replace the cabin filer. A couple of years ago, replaced the AC MAG Clutch Relay, when AC light was blinking.But now I feel the condenser in front of the radiator and it feels very hot, and the fans never seem to come on.I can see the 3 Fan relays, and not sure where the ECT sensor is located, or whether that would be the problem.If the fans arent coming on at all, you would think the car would overheat?
Tested the motor on one of the two, with direct 12 volts to it, and it did not run.Tested the disconnected cable that would be supplying voltage to that motor and it read 13+ volts. So I would think it was a bad motor, but I would like to see the voltage on that disconnected motor go to zero, but not sure if that happens, or when?Guy suggested at parts place that sells the Two Motors, Fans, and Shield all as one unit for less than $100, that maybe the motor burned out because it was running all the time.
WHen should the electric motors not be receiving power?I read somewhere that when car starts that both are on low speed, and Always on when AC is on. But do one or both ever turn off? If I pull this shroud out with the two motors and buy the replacement, I just don't want to have the motor blow out, because there is something making it run all of the time.
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I have a 2002 Camry i4 with 158k miles. The transmission on it suddenly started slipping one day last week. My wife drove it in the morning and came back to say it was slipping and lurching a bit. I drove it in the afternoon around the block a few times to check it out, all normal. In the evening, wife took it out again and it dies 3 miles out. When I showed up, I was able to get it crawling at 5-10mph, but the engine was at near redline. So definitely slipping. Got it towed back home. The next morning, I back it out of the driveway and then up the driveway again just to see, and it seems fine.
This leads me to believe the issues is only when the transmission is warm. Transmission fluid is at a normal level. Dark red and smells bad, so due for a change. Is it too late to save the transmission?
Over the weekend, I drained and filled the transmission fluid with new T-IV (not a complete flush) to see. Drove it around the block a few times and no slipping, but I can hear a faint hum/whine, similar to when in reverse gear but softer. I can't say for sure if anything improved, I would have to drive it til warm to reproduce last week's conditions. I was too nervous that it'll die completely again and I'd have to push it home. The hum was enough for me to say, yes something is still wrong.
I called local mechanics to get quotes and advice. The ones that work on transmissions say a rebuild is required at a cost of $2000. Others say replace the transmission with used (new would be too expensive). Waiting for quotes on that. One guy suggested that the transmission computer would've failed to cause transmission to fail, so rebuild of both the computer and transmission is necessary. Does that make sense? Seems questionable to me.
What indication is it that the transmission would only slip when warm? Is rebuild or new transmission really my only option?
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Stuck at Starbucks at the moment waiting for my car to get towed. Thought I would post here to get some feedback.
I have a 2002 4 cylinder Camry that is refusing to start. The battery seems OK as all the lights are on. The car is not turning over either (cranking).
The car has had no issues (touch wood) since I got it at 50k miles. It is currently at 100k miles.
I believe the issue is with the starter. When I started the car earlier today, I noticed it started a little differently then before. It took a second or two longer to start.
Does the problem can be a starter? I am getting the car towed to my house in about an hour.
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I have a 2002 Camry, 2.4 with 155k miles.
This morning I was going to work and was making a lane change and hit the accelerator quite aggressively. Suddenly my engine started to run really rough and shook the car and the check engine light started flashing.
I checked the engine code and its giving me a P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire warning.
I have read that there can be various reasons but I figured since this problem is consistent its not a vacuum issue? Could it just be a bad plug? I don't have the tools to fix it, I am going to get them soon to pull the plugs and inspect then, and will replace them anyway since I don't think they have ever been replaced.
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I have a 2000 7.3L f250 superduty. after rebuild and a yr now have engine smokes when you rev the engine and an imbalance on No1 cylinder causing injector to carbon up poss from prev misfires due to injector harness now solved? Found the turbo exhaust outlet pipe leaking oil we think because the wrong size clamp fitted. will fit new clamp tomorrow but if this does not solve problem what next? This has now cost thousands and still having problems...
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I have a 2002 Toyota Camry XLE 4 cylinder. I made a mess today, filled 13 galleons of Diesel in my gasoline Camry. It ran fine for 5 mins and then stopped.
I am planning to drain the fuel tank. I see one i hope fuel line in the hood which I plan to open using a wrench and drain the Fuel tank. Is that right?
Also do I need to do any other things immediately? I was thinking may be I will change fuel filter also.
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Our 2002 LE Camry master-cylinder reservoir is loose, at least with the engine not running. Is this normal? It moves about 1/4", side-to-side. With the engine running, the pedal almost goes to the floor, but I've been told that's normal. I'm not sure that it is, but my wife seems to get by with it that way. Our engine is 4cyl.
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I own a 2002 Camry XLE 4-cylinder with about 95,000 miles which is in excellent condition and well-maintained. Recently I began to hear a rattle, tapping or knocking sound apparently from the passenger side of the engine compartment (passengers agree with apparent location). It almost sounds like engine knocking, but the times it happens seem to rule that out. It could be some metal vibrating against something, but I can't hear it when I'm under the hood, and nothing appears loose. I've taken it to my trusted independent mechanic, but he couldn't duplicate the sound driving for 15-20 minutes on the freeway or see anything wrong when put on a lift. The sound doesn't occur all the time, of course; that'd be too easy.
The noise begins:
-after I've been driving 15 minutes or more
-after the car gets above 45-50 MPH, but when the noise finally begins, it will then occur down to as low as 30 MPH.
Last weekend I drove 1000 miles roundtrip on the freeway at 65-80 MPH; it didn't begin for 30 minutes, but continued most of the way to my destination (5.5 more hours), though it did seem to stop a few times. This week, my 20 minute drive to work, which has about 10 minutes on the freeway at 65, has not caused the noise to happen once.
Characteristics of the problem:
-the noise is not related to RPM; once it begins, it is about the same frequency and volume at 30 MPH as at 80 MPH
-it doesn't occur when in park or neutral and idling, even if the engine is revved, and even if the noise was just occurring on the freeway moments before
-it doesn't change when running over rough pavement or in turns
-it doesn't change when regular gas is replaced with premium (tried this last week to rule out engine knock, though the lack of RPM affecting it probably ruled that out already).
So it seems like it may be related to the speed of the car and perhaps the temperature of the engine or compartment. The hood latch appears to be holding tight with no play, the strut mounts were replaced 10K ago, and the wheel bearings check out fine.
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I have been driving my 2002 Honda Civic for about 6 years now. For the past 4 years its been all highway, driving 50+miles a day. I have just moved to a small town where its all town driving.
When I would get off the highway before, I would notice a burning type smell, but no smoke and no signs of overheating. Once I moved here where the winter has been significantly colder than what my car is used to, and I am doing all in town driving, I have noticed smoke coming from my engine, but my temperature gauge shows all is well. I have always done regular oil changes etc on the car. I will be making a long trip this summer back home and i am not sure if I should be worried about the car overheating. Should I try and find someone to investigate this problem further or is this just some engine gunk burning as the car gets hot?
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I have an 02 Passat 1.8t that drags the brakes when I am driving to the point that they start smoking when I get off the interstate and my gas mileage is terrible. When I first observed this dragging I popped the hood and found that the check valve on the hose that connects to the end of the intake manifold had a chunk missing and was hissing. I did some research and found that this hose leads to the brake booster so i bought a new valve at the stealership and installed it and I am still having the issue.
I checked all the other hoses around that area and underneath the manifold for leaks and the only thing I found was a hole in the small hose that connects to the very front of the intake manifold that leads to the N249 thingy which i fixed but i haven't tested the brakes yet. When I start my car after it hasn't been on for a while my car does alright for about 10 minutes before the brakes start dragging again. Also pumping my brakes doesn't seem to work much.
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I have a 2002 F150 4.6 liter 2 wheel drive with 49000 original miles, 30000 of that in the past 2 years. on a recent road trip the right rear disk brake caliper jammed in city traffic. I limped into a local repair shop with the right rear brake smoking. I rolled out with all new rear rotors pads and calipers. The mechanic could not locate new brake hoses. These hoses and lines are one piece from the caliper to the T fitting on the axle. Even the ford dealer could not locate the right rear brake lines.
Made it home 450 miles but the right rear caliper is still dragging a little on the new rotor. Seems to be about 40F hotter than the left side. I have spent the day trying to find replacements and can find the left side in one piece but not the right side. I have looked at the the union where the hose and line connect and there is no hex on the line side of the fitting its just round. You can see where the mechanic put a pipe wrench on the round and tried to break the two pieces apart but no luck.
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I've got an '02 F150 with a 5.4L Triton. Despite being 10 yrs. old it's just passed the dealer warranty mileage about 80,000 miles. Due to a family situation it's been sitting idle for upwards of 2 or 3 weeks between startups.
When I do startup there's a puff of blue/geyish smoke, the engine idles rough for about 30 secs. and then everything smooths out and she runs normal.
I haven't noticed this issue before, I would add the temps here have been extremely cold the last few weeks. What direction do I point a mechanic in so he doesn't waste time or money on a diagnostic.
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2002 Prius that idles really rough for a min or two when first started. Recently got check engine codes 300, 301, 302, & 303 for misfires. Also have had the red triangle with a 3191 fail to start code. When I get the 3191 it will start after a couple attempts. Mileage has dropped to mid 30's. 227k miles & other than the idle problem the car runs well.
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I have a 07 camry 4 cylinder with about 80k miles on it. Now on cold starts i started to notice that it will have a puff of blue smoke out the exhaust then it will go away right away and when i drive it there is no smoke and the car drives fine.
I did some research and Im thinking that it is the valve seals. Now my question has tried to sea foam it and then run thicker oil to see it it will stop the smoking? or will i just have to replace the valve seals?
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