Camry :: 1999 - Idle Very Low Then Stall Completely If Try To Put It In Gear
Apr 14, 2014
We've brought our 1999 Camry to our mechanic twice for a starting problem to no avail because it never happens while it's there. So cliche right? About half the time it has trouble starting and the rest of the time it starts and operates fine.
These troublesome starts: * typically idle very low then stall completely if you try to put it in gear * sometimes, but very rarely, stall immediately * sometimes giving it a tiny bit of gas seems to prevent stalling * eventually, after 1-2 minutes, the engine begins running normally (usually i just sit there and wait and can feel the obvious/sudden change from idling low to a normal idle
It just passed the CA smog test and the mechanic couldn't find any problem. What should I do?
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My 2002 Toyota Camry XLE V6 (115k miles) stalls once every 4 months (happened thrice in the last year) or so when I'm braking & bringing the care to a complete stop.
The check-engine light comes on just before the car completely stops. The steering wheel feels locked. Putting it back in parking, turning off & turning it back on doesn't work. The car doesn't start. After 10-15 minutes, If I put the key in, turn it on & try to turn the steering wheel while turning it on, it turns back up & runs without any issues for the next few months.
I've taken the car to 3 different mechanics (including a Toyota dealership mechanic) & they tell me that the car is in great condition (I've done a lot of preventive maintenance on the car). They can't find any error codes & they checked everything but can't find any issues
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My 2001 toyota camry is great but has an intermittent, annoying problem no one can diagnose or correct. If I drive for a while at top highway speed (say 65mph) and then have to come to a stop (to pay toll or stop light) I get a very rough idle and then the car stalls. Have had new plugs, wires, coil, radiator already done to solve problem. Check engine light never comes on. Can also drive lengthy trip and it doesn't happen.
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I've recently noticed that when I accelerate really hard on my vehicle it will completely stall out at 40mph. Once I let off the gas and begin accelerating again all is good. However the car will not enable me to just step on when without stalling out.
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I started having problems with my '99 Cirrus last month, it would randomly stall while driving or while in idle. With no check engine light or any other tell tale signs of a problem. I'm not entirely knowledgeable about how the entirety of the car's systems function, though I new I should check my fuel system. I wasn't getting any fuel to the engine whatsoever, so I replaced the fuel filter because when I got it off and looked at it it was clear it was bad. Then I put it all back together to try and run it and it continued to stall.
Thinking it must be the fuel pump at this point I dropped the fuel tank and replaced it. It ran for about 35 miles before the same problem started happening again. So I checked all the fuses, and relays and just to be safe replaced all the relays related to the fuel pump, and fuel system and i even replaced the auto shutdown relay. The car continued to have the same problem, so I did some research and found out it could be a dirty throttle body so I cleaned it even though it wasn't that dirty, and checked my air filter for how clean it was and it was clean. The car still continues to stall in idle and while driving.
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Had a tune-up and a mechanic also looked at the accelerator pedalfor some reason, but no report regarding the fuel injection or regulatory components which I suppose should have signaled an issue when the computer diagnostic was run if I am to understand the mechanic's position.
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I have a 99 f150 with 171xxx miles and the other day it suck in second gear and start shaking and misfiring and would stall out. I took the truck and got the codes read and it threw codes for the tcc solenoid and shift solenoid. I put both in the transmission and it kepy doing the same thing. I check fuse 24 under the hood and it was blown, I replaced it and everything worked fine for a day then it blew the fuse 2 more times and i cant figure out why it is blowing that fuse. I cant find any shorts maybe pcm??
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I have a 99 Mazda b3000 v6 that has recently started to stall whenever in idle. Check engine light is on and the following codes popped up (P0176, P0135,P0141, and P0155). I'm sure one of these codes has to be related to the problem but I am clueless when it comes to troubleshooting. Also it started stalling after I filled up the tank. Not sure if that has anything to do with it, check engine light was already on before that.
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We have a 1999 4Runner with the V6 engine, auto tranny, and 230k miles. For going on a year now the engine will occasionally stall when at idle…usually happening at stop lights. The engine starts right back up. This may occur once every other month or once a week for several weeks. Stalling has occurred with warm engine and cold engine, during raining/damp period and when dry. Never has the check engine light come on or has it generated fault codes. Dealer can’t find anything wrong. We’ve replaced Air Idle Control Sensor (OEM), Throttle Position Sensor, Mass Airflow Sensor, and cleaned the throttle body. Plug wires and timing belt were replaced a couple of years ago. Other than this one issue it runs great. What to try next.
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I have a 2006 Ford F-250 5.4l the symptoms are when it's warm it has half power and it will stall at idle. What I have done with the truck is.
New cam phasers
new chain
new tensioners
new vct solenoids
new oil pump
new plugs
new ignition coils
new stock cam shafts
new rockers
new lash adjusters
new exhaust manifolds both sides
new muffler
oil change with the right oil
ran it with sea foam in the crankcase before oil change
new fuel pump module
new evap vent control
new abs speed sensor
I cleaned throttle body with brake cleaner ... Scanned it after a 15 min ride of having to use 2 feet to drive it. The engine codes that came up are p0022 iacv short to ground and p1000 readiness test not complete. I also got p1804 4 wheel drive high indicator circuit failure p1808 4 wheel drive low indicator circuit failure .... Not sure what else to try.
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I just bought a 2009 Camry LE (4 cylinder) about a week ago. It's only got 10K miles on it. Ever since I got the car, I've noticed a very slight vibration when stopped and in gear. It does this when the engine is cold and warm. It only does this when I am in gear with my foot on the brake and stopped. I still have warranty, should I bring it in to the dealer? Is there a simple fix for this? Or is this normal?
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A problem just popped up yesterday. 09 Camry, 2.4L, SE, about 178k on the odo. Started out as a slight hesitation when trying to accelerate from a stop, hardly noticeable, in the am. As day progressed it got much worse (very little driving but about 3 to 4 trips). By night the car wants to die upon first start up. Engine will rev higher, then drop, then rev, and will drop way low and stutter and die if I don't feather gas. Very bad hesitation today when trying to get moving. This morning it was revving high, low, high, low (high meaning a little over 1000), then dropped, stuttered and died. Cranked again fine.
My in gear idle rpm is about 650. I will be checking the plugs and throttle body later today as several months back I had issues that seemed to be related to those. I have my suspicions, but want to get opinions. I filled up the tank yesterday morning. Was about 14 degrees yesterday morning, warmed up to around 30. In the 40s today. Engine does get to normal temp, all that fun jazz. I am thinking shitty gas....?
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2012 camry se v6 ...have a dome light flicker at stop..idle..in gear...and most noticeable at night. Dealership checked alternator. all ok according to their device. I made them show me. They changed the battery saying it was bad which changed the flicker a bit but didnt remove it. (could also be crazy and just wanted it to fix it) Overall just annoying but dont think it should be doing it. The dealership said this was normal for this car with the JBL audio. The car is completely stock, no modifications. Dont trust their response. Car is just out of warranty and just purchased.
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I drive an '05 Mazda 3, manual transmission. About a month ago, I accidentally killed the battery completely by leaving the trunk slightly open for a couple days. After getting a new battery, my car idles very noisily, making rattling noises, and constantly feels like it's almost stalling when driving slowly or decelerating. It only stalled entirely once, in a parking lot. My friend thought this was due to the ECU crashing and trying to figure things out, so we put the car through an ECU reset procedure, but nothing changed.
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1999 Explorer starts then will not idle unless it is put into gear. It only happens once in a while...
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My car started a rough idle last night.... Pull to stop light, in gear, a/c on #1 and car shudders and acts like it's going to stall..... Went away as I drove a round a bit.....back this a.m. (after the warm up program ran) drove it a bit and was sporadic.....and even went away...then came back.....
Its worse when car is at stop and in 'D'.....little better with a/c off and/or in neutral......it finally threw the CEL today....... I had the fuel pump recall done about a month or two ago, car has 36k+ on it...... Anything I should have the service dept look for aside from what the fault codes might read?
[URL] .....
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When I drive the idle surges up and down and stalls when i slow down.
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So this morning when I went to start my car for work, it wouldn't idle and was misfiring badly, also has a very loud noise coming from the valve cover. The car has under 40k miles on it and is CPO, so it'll be towing it to the dealership today to get check out. The car ran fine on friday when i parked it.
Here is a vagcom scan I did this morning also.
Monday,25,August,2014,06:03:51:26742
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 12.12.2.0 (x64)
Data version: 20140212
VIN: WVWHD7AJ2BW201261 License Plate:
Chassis Type: AJ (7N0)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 25 2E 37 42 44 46 52 55 56 62 72 77
VIN: WVWHD7AJ2BW201261
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] .....
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My 05 Elantra 2.0, 5 speed won't idle when cold til I drive it a few hundred feet. It will stall. Only then will the idle rise to what it's supposed to be. Is there some sort of cold idle sensor/module that needs replacing?
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My question is what is the possible cause of my car trying to stall when it idles? Here is the scenario. There was no problem with the car this morning. I was almost out of gas and filled it up. After filling up about two miles down the road when I can to a stop sign or had to slow to an idle in traffic the car seemed like it wanted to stall. When I was driving at and speed other then idle it seemed fine. When I left work tonight the same thing. but this time when I got close to home the check engine light came on. I did check the gas cap and that seems fine. I was wondering what the possible cause could be.
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I have become the proud owner of a 1991 Ford F-150 long wheel base with a camper shell. It has a 300ci straight 6 with an overdrive transmission. When I first started driving the truck over a year ago it had about 45000 miles on it. Obviously it had not been used much. I have since added about 15000 miles so now I am just over 60000. When I first started driving the truck occasionally it would jerk really hard when shifting. It didn't seem to matter which gear it was going into. The more I drove the worse the problem got to the point where it would drop completely out of gear while going down the highway.
Now another detail. The jerking was much worse when the outside temperature was above 50 degrees. During the winter the problem was all but none existent. I thought I was at the least looking at a transmission rebuild. Well about two months ago I decided to try something radical. When I drove in town I would turn the overdrive off and manually shift through the gears. Since my business is not far from my home and I seldom get over 50mph I would leave the overdrive off. It never would get over 2000 rpm's. After about two weeks of this I tried putting it back in drive while in town. Now there is no jerking or dropping out of gear.
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