Camry :: 1999 - Speedometer Goes To Zero Even When Pushing The Gas
May 3, 2011
For the past several months my 99 Camry has had a reoccurring issue. From time to time, with no predictability based on weather, speed, time of day, the speedometer goes to zero even when I'm pushing the gas. The check engine light then goes on and after a few seconds, the spedometer starts working again, though with the engine light still on. I have tried taking it to several repair shops and usually within a couple of blocks of the shop, the light turns off and I am told that since the light is off, the diagnostic will come back clean and nothing can be done. I am getting frustrated and concerned that my car is no longer safe to drive but I can not seem to get it fixed.
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We got a 2012 SE Camry back in September. This is our first Toyota. Love everything about it except the driver and front passenger head rest. I feel like it is always pushing my head forward. Is there any other options for this?
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Well my brake pedal is stuttering while pushing down. Have an abs light. Pulled codes. Left front sensor issue. Would this cause my pedal stutter? Removed #10 fuse in cabin and it stopped. So did the speedo. So thinking before I dive into a master cylinder or brake booster....replace sensor? So do I get the 4wd sensor or the 2wd?
1999 Eddie Bauer 5.0. AWD ....
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I have an 03 F250 7.3litre. I have noticed the last few times driving while hauling that my vents start pushing hot air when under a load (example: driving up a long, steep pull) even if I have the AC on. It's starting make me a lot hot under the collar (pun intended) .....
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I've got a 2000 F-250 SuperDuty with the 5.4L V8, and a standard transmission and about 140k miles - just bought the truck several months ago. Trying to figure out what's wrong with either the transmission or the clutch. Here's the symptoms, any feedback is welcome:
1. If I shift too quickly into 5th from 4th, say 'pushing' from 4th to 5th directly, it grinds and chunks in every time.
2. If I shift slowly, 1-2-3, 4th into neutral, neutral and push right to line up with 5th, then into 5th, slight pause on each move, then it usually shifts into 5th silently and no problems ...but sometimes will grind just a tad.
3. If I shift from 4th into Neutral, leave it in neutral and let the clutch out then step on the clutch all the way and wait before shifting into 5th ...even if I wait several seconds (say 'close to 10 seconds'), it will grind every time ...a good grind that bugs me to do. I'm careful to avoid this.
4. Usually, if it grinds into 5th, I can shift down to 4th, let the clutch out and drive a short way and try again ...and it'll grind again. Best way to avoid grinding into 5th is to drive normally, and use the 1-2-3 'slight pause' method of shifting into 5th. This is what I do all the time, trying to make the tranny last as long as possible.
It's like the 5th gear synchro isn't working well, or perhaps the clutch is not fully disengaging? What's wrong? I wonder if the truck (haven't looked it up yet) has a hydraulic clutch and maybe the clutch is not fully disengaging ...pumping the clutch pedal sometimes seems to work, but most often doesn't. Sometimes, I have difficulty shifting back down into lower gears as well ... no grinding, but you have to double clutch just right to get it to go into gear (3rd, or 2nd).
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My '01 Super Duty 5.4 has an overheating/heater problem that the dealer can't seem to fix. I noticed my heater was blowing cold then a few miles later it overheated pushing coolant out of cap. Next day drove fine to Ford dealer who replaced my heater core, thermostat, reservoir cap and a hose. Drove it for a day till the exact original symptoms occurred again with a gurgling sound in dash. Dealer kept for a week pressurizing system but no leaks found. Replaced my thermostat again and gave it back. I drove it 300 miles over a week before the exact same symptoms occurred. Brought back to dealer who said that air was in the system, added a bunch of coolant and supposedly got all the air out. Same symptoms still. Brought back to dealer that finally changed the water pump they said had a leak. Guess what, same symptoms. Heater will work fine for days then it will blow cold, then hot, then cold and sooner or later truck will overheat then just as fast cool down and heater will work again. Still hearing gurgling. Dealer said I don't have a HCV.
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We just replaced the starter on our 02 Camry (176k miles) and everything seems fine except the speedometer is clear out of range to the right. Could we have a gotten a spike or surge somehow? Can we reset it...
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My inflation light wont reset even though I've tried and my speed is off after i install a set of 18's..235/35/18 front... 255/35/18 rear... Is there a way i can fix this?
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I have an 08 Camry that appears to be having the problems associated with the ABS module (intermittent A/C, speedometer not working, etc.).
I've picked up a module/pump from a junkyard. Excuse my ignorance, but the module itself (black portion), does not have any fluid circulating through it? If I'm just swapping that, there is no need to bleed the ABS or perform any programming?
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Speedometer, that is. My GPS shows 3-4 MPH slower than my speedometer does. Is there an adjustment?
2010 XLE w/2.5
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So I just got some winter tires put on 10 minutes while driving the trac control started blinking and then all the lights on the dash came on and speedometer just went to zero. Still drives but odometer isn't adding mileage and also seems to loose power steering while driving.
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I have a 2005 Camry with 110,000 miles on it. Bought Toyota because I thought they were supposed to last and be such good cars...speedometer, tachometer intermittently going out along with ABS light coming on...took it to dealer, they said it was the combo meter and oh by the way the water pump needs to be replaced. Then get a call that it isn't the combo meter but the ECU that needs to be replaced and that the part is $1982.00. I have serviced the car religiously at the dealer and am very disappointed to have such problems in a car that is only 5 years old and has been taken care of...
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I just got a 2015 XSE a few days ago and I'm loving it. Yesterday on my way to work the cruise control was working perfectly. But then on my way home, I noticed my digital speedometer was reading 69 mph even though I had the cruise control set to 70. I waited about a minute to see if the car just needed some time to accelerate. Nothing changed.
So I pushed the cruise control stick up to try to increase the speed. The cruise control number went up to 71 and the speedometer went up to 70. Then I pushed the cruise control stick down to try and match the speedometer. That didn't work either.
No matter what speed I'm at, the cruise control is always 1 mph faster than the speedometer.
I looked around the intertubes a bit and found some Tundras with a similar issue, but nothing on the Camry. It annoys because the car has just under 500 miles on it. Can the speedometer and/or cruise control be recalibrated?
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid that is having a speedometer problem. The speedometer registers 3 MPH more than my actual speed regardless what speed I am traveling. For example, if I am going 25 MPH, my speedometer will read 28 MPH; if I am traveling at 60 MPH my speedometer will read 63 MPH. I took my car to the dealership and they replicated the issue, but said that it is operating within ?normal? range. They admitted that they do not know how to fix the problem. I did not need to worry for it is operating within normal range. I have never had this problem with any other car, including my previous Toyota Camry.
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While driving my 2009 Camry the abs light and break light pop on and the speedometer stops working as well as the tacomitor and the odomitor stops ticking off miles as well, also the ac fan will run but the compressor stops.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry LE V6, It has 15 inch stock wheels on it
If I go to a larger wheel, is it possible to change the wheel speed so that the speedometer reads correct? If I have read correct, the stock offset is +45 and the lug pattern is 5x114.3 and a 6.5inch wheel?
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I have a Camry 2007, V6 and 3 weeks ago speedometer stop working and brake light, ABS light and check engine light came ON.
I had the car checked and P0500 code saying speedometer malfunction. All 4 speed sensors has been checked OK, computer engine replaced nothing change, all 3 lights are on and speedometer is not working.
I also noticed if I pull the connector from SKID control ECU I do have the same lights ON so with or without the connector plugged the same lights are on. Looks like no communication between SKID control ECU and....
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My 1999 Dodge Durango Speedometer went out so I replaced the speed sensor and it still doesn't work. The speedometer will come on after every once in a while but it doesn't seem to work below 40mph. My abs light and brake light are also constantly on.
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My Grandaughter's husband just HAD to install another radio and amp and speakers in his car. Now the speedometer won't work. Does that car have a speedo cable or is it electronic? It is not digital.
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My 1999 Plymouth grand voyager SE 3.3 liter engine has developed a tach and speed. Odometer problem. At various times the tach will surge@ 200 rpm and at the same time the speedometer will top out and then they will return to where they should be. I can make this happen also bye driving in reverse, stopping and putting it in overdrive and the tach and speedometer will surge without the car ever moving...
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Some guy I know was driving his 99 Mercury Sable Le about 30 mph when the speedometer suddenly died. Why did the speedometer suddenly die? The car continued to run albeit a bit sluggishly. He then stopped and turned off the ignition. He had been driving the car for only 5 minutes and the heat gauge was at the normal midpoint where it remained for almost an hour before declining. Why did the heat gauge take so long to decline? There also is a precedent to this puzzle. A couple weeks ago, he was driving the car 55 mph when the speedometer fluctuated wildly from 0 to 55. He stopped and after 10 minutes resumed driving without a hitch. Now he's had the 30 mph speedometer problem. In neither instance did the engine repair light appear. What's going on with the speedometer and the heat gauge? Where are those Magliozzi brothers when you need them?
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