Camry :: 1999 - Engine Dies When Letting Off Gas / RPMs Immediately Drop To 0
Apr 6, 2014
I have a 1999 Camry. I just spent $1250 (half of it borrowed) to have some basic maintenance, diagnosis, and serious repair work done. More than half of the serious (translate: expensive) work involved replacing a charcoal canister and installing a thermostat. The check engine light had been on for at least 10 years. And I had a gas pumping problem by way of the pump shutting off after only pumping a few cents worth of gas. Needless to say it was a royal PIA to fuel up my car. As far as the check engine light, a friend would clear the code so I could have it inspected.
Then more than 2 years a shop took out my thermostat because a hose had sprung a leak and they rigged up a temporary hose until they could order the part. I never went back because I couldn't afford it. I know it wouldn't have been a terribly expensive repair, but at the time it was more than I could afford. So for almost 3 years I have driven with out a thermostat and also couldn't get it inspected.
Fortunately I was finally able to get the necessary repair on my car--replacing the charcoal canister and thermostat--so that it could be inspected. I picked the car up yesterday and everything felt fine and the car ran fine.
Today I drove it about 12 miles from my home, made 3 back-to-back errand stops of not more than 15-20 minutes each and everything seemed fine. Nothing felt or sounded out of the ordinary. Then when I was leaving my 3rd stop, the car would not start unless I gave it gas. And it wouldn't stay started unless I gave it gas. In other words, the car would go, but as soon as I would take my foot off the gas to press the brake to put it in gear, the engine would die. There was no problem restarting it as long as I gave it gas, but I could not let off the accelerator at all or it would immediately die.
The car would go just fine, but if I let off the gas for any reason, even if I was driving 40 miles an hour on the street and let up completely off on the accelerator, the rpms would immediately drop to 0 and the engine would immediately die---no noise, no shuttering, no nothing---just die. This problem occurred almost the whole 12 miles back to my home. Then when I got about a mile and a half away, it went back to behaving completely normal and did not die when I let off the gas.
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'99 Intrigue (3.5L) with 65k miles. The car has sporadic starting problems where turning the key in the ignition turns the starter motor and results in one of the following scenarios:
1) The engine does not turn on.
2) The engine turns on, RPMs drop and the engine sputters and dies.
3) The engine turns on with no problems (like this morning).
It does not appear to matter whether the engine is hot or cold.
Reading forum posts of people that have seen similar problems, several different solutions would seem to be in order:
1) Replace fuel pressure regulator.
2) Replace crankshaft position sensor
3) Replace camshaft position sensor
4) Replace fuel filter
5) Replace spark plugs
6) Replace idle air control valve
7) Clean the throttle body
Since I rather not start throwing money at the car by replacing parts one by one until the problem is gone.
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Cold start. engine starts but wont idle, just dies. rpms drop. Restart same. Must neutral drop to get going keep rpms up until engines shifts then things are fine until next cold start. Cleaned throttle, changed air filter, dry gas, injector cleaner, no warning signal, scans clean. 180k miles.
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Just finished putting a fresh 460 backed by a (1977) c6 in my '68 ranger and now I'm having (what I believe is) transmission problems. The truck will idle and rev properly in gear but as soon as I put it in drive or reverse the RPM's drop and it dies. I jacked the back end up and put it in both drive and reverse and the tire's spin, but if I try and apply the brake to stop them the truck will die. My suspicion is that the torque converter is locked up all the time. I have managed to get it in gear and give it gas and it'll drive and shift fine, until I come to a stop. My question, what would cause the converter to do this? It's the same transmission and converter that I pulled out a month ago and I never had any issues before...
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My '99 Saturn SL2 has from time to time in the past year or so had brief bouts where the engine will suddenly rev up to about 2000rpms while at a stop and/or drop down to about 650rpms combined with surging and stalling while moving. The Service Engine light would typically come on in conjunction with these spells, but then a few days later, things would be back to normal and the light would go off. The episodes seem to correspond with weather that has high humidity, but not necessarily extreme heat. Once or twice when the heat was above 90, the car quit completely and wouldn't restart for several minutes, but that was last summer.
About a month ago the car, which is normally parked in a garage, spent the whole weekend outside when we had some extreme rains (in air temps only about 60s or so). Since that weekend, the car is running frequently with the issues previously described, especially the surging and stalling while driving. It will feel like the timing of the fuel is all out of whack, will shudder and run hard, and then it will suddenly correct itself and run normally. A friend has a code reader and the codes that came up are 404 and 1404, which indicate the EGR valve. We replaced that with a new one and put in 4 new spark plugs, but the problem still persists. I believe the fuel pump is in the gas tank, so from other things I've read, a vapor lock may not be the problem since the fuel is being pushed.
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My wife's 07 Camry cranks then immediately dies. I tried to crank it again and it want even start at all.
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I have a V6 with 162,000 miles. A year ago in the early spring we replaced the alternator, starter, fuel pump, lines, filter, dropped and cleaned the tank, fuel coils, repaired / replaced almost all injectors, spark plugs.Since April of last year, every few months my Car would have a hiccup of that it starts fine but would immediately die out. It would take anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes of trying to get it to start again. Other than that it would run beautifully. This week, while on the road it would jolt and die out. It happened 3 times. Yesterday morning it would once again crank fine and immediately die out. It will no longer keep running. We have not been able to keep my car started since then.
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2001 F150 5.4 4x4 148K... I recently replaced the intake manifold on this truck and when the engine revs it wants to continue at high RPMs for about 10 seconds after letting off the throttle. When driving, it almost wants to go faster and the gas mileage is really bad. Had some codes come up and took it to AZO and had them checked. P0171 & P0174. Guess I need to do some testing on the MAF and injectors.
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I have 1999 Honda Accord LX, 185000 mile, with 4 cylinders. Starts one month ago, the speedometer drop to zero randomly and immediately come back to normal on highway several times. Recently, car stops twice on street. Dashboard panel had no power. It seems electricity shuts off. I turn the key to OFF and turn the key to ON immediately then the car starts OK. The ignition switch was changed since there was a recall for it. What is wrong with my car?
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1999 4-runner 6-cylinder. starts and then immediately dies.
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When I try to crank the truck , it starts and immediately dies. This happened several times. The last attempt I began patting the accelerator when I turned the key. The truck cranked and I was able to keep it running by feathering the throttle. it ran rough. At higher RPM it ran ok. When I let it idle it idled rough. After engine warmed it idles and runs fine. Engine started without trouble when warm.
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A minor but persistent (year-long) rough idle on my 1991 240 has quickly turned into a Cold Start Nightmare over the past month:
SITTING HOURS OVERNIGHT (50 to 60-degree temp. overnight) - When I attempt to start in the morning, the engine idles high for 3-5 seconds and then immediately dies. To successfully start, I must keep pressing the accelerator pedal at least half-way down for 2-3 minutes. The engine sputters, almost backfires, shakes, lopes, almost dies, etc. After 2-3 minutes, everything runs just fine.
WARM ENGINE SITTING - Once the engine is warmed up, it will consistently start without problems. Still a slightly rough idle, but OK. The car does not die.
I have changed the battery, coolant temp. sensor, and spark plug wires.
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My truck will turn over very strong but will not crank. it cranked one time then died immediatly. 30 min later it cranked and ran for about 5 min then died again. Alternator, fuel pump.
Gas v10 motor, full of gas, new spark plugs.
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I've made posts about a rough idle before now I noticed something new about it. I noticed when I approach a red light the vibrations don't start immediately. They start as soon as the RPMS would drop a little. They stay above 500 but it seems like it's below 750. As if the engine is slightly starved from power? Now i'm wondering if it could be related to another problem I have.
Whenever I start the car, the battery light flickers until the car is started all the way. This is on a 2007 Camry 4 cylinder. So far everything iv'e done is: New NGK Spark Plugs, NEW OEM mounts (all 4) Seafoamed the engine, Seafoamed the throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor, New air filter, and cleaned the air filter box, replaced the PCV Vlave, new belt, new alternator (duralast), and a new battery (from autozone).
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I have a 2003 Camry 3.0l v6. Stalls at lights random.
Currently the car stalls at stops but this doesn't happen all the time it can go a month in between the problem occurring its very random. While sitting at a light the rpms drop and then it revs up and cycles like that for quite a while. This will also occur while cruising at a low speed while I'm just coasting the rpms will go up and down. I can compensate while stopped by power braking and keeping it at its normal idling rpm. I have no check engine lights and can't seem to determine what would be causing this issue.
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I've noticed on first start up the RPMs go as high as 3000 for a couple of seconds and then drop to normal even at 68' degrees,is that normal? because if it is what will aspect when the temperature drops to 20 or even lower.It is a 2.5 liter 4.
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95 explorer 4.0l ohv. I go to take off and then come to a stop after about 10-15 feet, i just give it a little gas then lightly press the brake, rpm's drop to around 400-500 then back to normal. I have replaced:
IAC
MAF
Plugs & wires
Coil pack
intake manifold gaskets
fuel system cleaner
fuel filter
air filter
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I'm in the military overseas and having a starting problem with my 2006 Ford Five Hundred. When the weather is cold, around 45 degrees F or lower the car starts OK however within about a second the RPM's drop between 400 and 500 and the engine starts to stumble. After about 3 to 4 seconds the RPM's gradually increase to around 1300-1400 RPM and is OK at that point.
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My 2002 F250 7.3 randomly dies while driving and seems to only be when I hit a bump no matter the size. I have checked the valve cover harness connector outside of the valve covers and they look fine. I checked the ECM connection took it off and reconnected it.
Changed the CPS censor twice, checked the ICP sensor, checked continuity of all the glow plugs through the valve cover harness. Checked the fuel pump, checked all related fuses, changed the fuel filter, checked glow plug relay, batteries hold good voltage and were recently upgraded to bigger batteries.
Engine runs just a little rough but not enough to be of concern. Air filter is clean and oil level is perfect. What could possible be causing my truck to randomly die when it hits a bump and not start back right away??? This truck is new to me and its the first diesel engine I have ever owned.
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1997 Subaru SVX (Alcyone) LSi, 3.3L H6 engine.
My SVX was driven from Denver to Las Vegas, NV and it developed an odd habit where the RPMs would start to oscillate while on cruise control. I had to disengage the cruise control to get the oscillations to stop. Three days later I was driving the SVX to work and the RPMs started oscillating at idle and the car started running rough and it died.
These things have all been replaced with OEM grade parts: Spark plugs, electric fuel pump & strainer & fuel filter, Mass Air Flow sensor, new air filter and fuses.
The car starts up fine but after a few seconds the RPMs begin to oscillate. Then the car tries to recover, the idle becomes rough, and the the RPMs drop very low and the engine shuts off.
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I have a 2010 Santa Fa GLS. 88K miles. This issue started in the last 6 months, once the engine turns over the RPM drop low and starts to putter as if it is not getting enough fuel. If push down the gas when starting it works. Once it passes the first 2 -3 seconds everything is fine. No issue idling or driving. What this could be? It's not an issue with Starter, Battery, my best guess would be a sensor, leaky fuel injector.
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