I just bought a 1998 Camry 4 cylinder and i thought i needed to clean the EGR but my dad said it is the resonator. So I'm unsure on what it is exactly. it is kind of sluggish at idle and cant pass emissions. I was thinking of cleaning the egr since that is simple then if that doesn't work then I'll look into the resonator?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2009 Camry which has the well known very bad vibration at idle when in drive at a light. My Ultragauge shows the RPM are very low when it vibrates. Sometimes it drops to around 425-450 rpm when at a stop light in drive (automatic car). Then it sometimes moves up to around 625-675 rpm and that is when the vibration completely disappears and it is nice and smooth. This issue is intermittent but happens everyday.
Most people think it is due to a bad engine mount and spend money doing that and get no results.
I have done a lot of research and feel it is due to a dirty throttle body and IAC valve and want to test my theory. I will post results once I do the job. What is the easiest and most thorough way to clean both?
I have a Honda Accord EX 4 cyl. 2002. It has sluggish acceleration and hesitation problems. I put in new plugs and that improved it some. My mechanic says I should pay him to clean the fuel injectors. What will work best? What needs to be cleaned? Would new plug wires work? Gumout? Big differences in cost.
View 2 RepliesCould this be from bad gas? I put a bottle of Gum out fuel system cleaner in the tank was almost full and the directions say to put it in when almost empty and then fill for best results. My son bought gas at the same place I did and his car started having idle problems at about the same time my problems started (sometimes his engine races, sometimes normal, sometimes so slow it stalls out).
My car is a 98 Volvo S70
1998 tahoe LT .. My truck selector switch has been acting up. when i turn the switch from defrost to AC mode it takes time before it moves the doors to the correct position. does something need lubed or do i have something that needs (or will need) replaced?
View 6 RepliesSo I've had the 2016 Camry SE for a couple months now, however I was wondering to clean the interior of the car, specifically the steering wheel. I do drive a lot long distance and city driving as well and sweating on a hot day is practically inevitable even if its just a bit. But how to clean the leather/steering wheel of the interior.
View 11 Replies190,000 miles and idle has never been a problem. I noticed a few weeks ago that one random start was a little sluggish. Went to start it yesterday and it was dead, no cranking. A minute later it fired right up but now it won't idle if it's in gear. Runs in neutral or park but I have to keep taking it out of gear at stops or it starts stumbling, the idle drops and it dies. The check engine light never came on. The most recent work is a new AC compressor, two new O2 sensors in front of the cat, and a new power steering high pressure hose. At the dash gauges - oil pressure, engine temp, and voltage look good and it runs smooth at speed.
View 1 Replies96 dodge intrepid, 3.5. Few yrs back kid flooded it at -10f. I changed wet plugs and it started. Ran ok for 10miN, idled fine .n than I drove it 10 miles and it would not idle. I was 150mi from home and kept going. Car ran so-so. Seemed sluggish at 60mph. Exhaust actually made black/soot stain on bumper. My mileage on hwy was about 1/2 normal. I pulled plugs when I got home and they were black. Took about 1 week of driving to eventually settle down. Never did find any reason for issue. Some said my o2 sensors were buggy. I never changed them and had car for 2 more yrs and it ran great. Why it would not idle?
View 4 RepliesThe notorious 3.6 high idle has haunted me for over a year now. When it first started happening, I thought it was a temporary thing. It has been happening for a year now and the stealership has not been able to diagnose it. It has started happening more frequently now, no matter the weather. The idle overall is just rough. I place the car in neutral sometimes at a red light because the vibration and idel is so rough. The transmission is sluggish, and as i come to a stop sometimes, i can feel the rough downshifts it makes from gear to gear. And just today, after I picked up the car from the dealership from a failed diagnosis of the high rev problem, my parking sensors stopped working. When the system turns on(car in Reverse), there is a steady beep even while there is nothing behind me. Even as the car is moving(below 10mph) the car makes three beeps, every five seconds or so. I do not know what to do. I have a feeling that even if I take it to a different stealership, I will get the same results.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1991 Buick LeSabre, sometime last year the check engine light came on, and I took it into a mechanic who told me that a magnetic sensor on the timing gear broke off and that it is the problem with the car, but it would cost me 500 dollars to replace the part, because it is located in the engine. I noticed that the engine felt like it lost power, and the car started vibrating when I was idle. The beginning this year, I replaced the spark plug wires, and replaced the spark plugs, when I replaced the spark plug wires, I realized that two of the wires were broken, as soon as I was done.
I tested the car, and the power is back, but I still have the stalling problem. I will try to describe how the car stalls, I come to a stop, and when I push on the gas to accelerate, the car just conks out, so I have to restart the car, and rev it a little to keep it from conking out again, and it starts running normally. I have been told by another mechanic that I need to replace a Electronic Ignition Control module, which I can not find, and that it is possible the fuel is not getting into the chambers. I just want some answers to my problem, so the car will last me till I can get a new vehicle or something better.
My 2011 F150 5.0 was bought used a year ago, and ran like new. A few months ago, several things started acting up.
* clicking at idle. Just a tick-tick-tick-tick kinda like a diesel. I swear it just started, but the dealer tells me it's "normal".
* Oil - I'm "losing" about a half quart a month. No leaks. 1500 miles after a change, it's dingy. (not dirty just brown) Dealer tells me it's "normal" that these trucks consume a little oil and that it will get dirty.
All that I could ignore but this is what bothers me:
The truck seems to struggle, mildly, to maintain speed on hills. It'll drop to 1k rpms before downshifting. Just a pig. Of course if I stomp it to the floor I get a good response, but it is just sluggish and wimpy when driving "normally". Also, when maintaining speed, there's a barely noticeable missing/slipping happening. When I pull a couple thousand pounds it really struggles.
This is happening. Three dealers tell me there's nothing wrong with the truck. After pressing the first dealer they admitted they never drove the truck. The second dealer called me to pick it up because nothing was wrong and also admitted to not having driven it. After I demanded they drive it, they called back still saying nothing is wrong. "The computer would show it if there was a problem." The third dealer has it now, drove it this morning, guess what? "There's nothing wrong, maybe you can come and show us."
I cannot believe the industry has lost the ability to diagnose vehicles beyond what a computer tells them. Do techs not check compression or ignition or fuel pressure any more? Seems to me a valve issue for example could be the cause of all my symptoms, or fuel delivery, or weak spark, none of which would show up on the freaking computer.
Coyote 5.0 engine and the 6R80 trans.
My girlfriends 06 Sonata 4cyl threw a p0011 code a week or so ago. I looked online and saw that it could be dirty oil so I immediately changed it (it was about 400 miles overdue at that point). I also looked on the forums here and was referred to a thread that suggested replacing the oil control valve. My girlfriend drove to work a few times before I fixed it (maybe a 100 miles total) and the car stalled out in the middle of an intersection. I then replaced the OCV and to my discontent the problem was still very present. Very loud knocking or clanking under the valve cover and sluggish idle. Her mechanic now says that it is a job for a hyundai dealership and that it could be something as bad as a head or engine rebuild. What the problem could be?
View 2 RepliesMy 2004 Camry 3.3 V6 (3MZ-FE) has started to run a bit sluggish at highway speeds and sometimes in stop and go traffic.
This P0430 code came on after a recent oil change and flushing my engine with seafoam.
The info I've gotten from my auto parts store is that it's one of the oxygen sensors, HO2S or Bank 2. I believe, if my research is correct, that this sensor is post cat. Looking down from the front of my engine I can see 2 sensors after the cat pretty close to each other.
just bought a 01 f350 v10, 40,000 miles, plowing beast, anyways when taking off truck seems sluggish, give it more gas as its fine. At idle there appears to be a skip. There are no check engine lights on, could it be the coil pack or even maybe fuel problem? Have done plenty to this beast to get it close to perfect and this motor issue is it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 98 expedition with the 4.6l 4x4 and it has 158,000 on the dash had a new engine installed at 100,000 it started running rough and sluggish last week so I changed out the spark plugs and while changing the plug I notice oil on the threads of the two rear passenger side plugs. After the new plugs it was smoking pretty bad blueish white smoke. I figured it was the oil from around the threads that had leaked into the cyl.
The smoked cleared after 2 days and ran great for a week. Now its doing the same thing again real rough idle and and its extremely sluggish. I can put the pedal to the floor and she barely wants to move almost like the tranny is going out but the rough idle leads me to believe its and engine problem. I have the check engine light on but can't get any codes. I also tried checking for vacuum leaks by spraying either round the intake and vacuum lines and didn't notice any change in rpms so I'm guess the vacuum is fine.
I've noticed that my Camry has seemed especially sluggish when it starts from a stopping position. The acceleration just seems slow, but it gets better once I get up in speed. My first instinct was the transmission, but the fluid level is fine and I'm not really feeling that 'slipping' feeling. I noticed that my tires are very worn (not bald, but certainly worn to the point where I want them replaced), so I'm planning to get those replaced. However, I'd like to know a little more information so I know what to expect when I go into the shop.
1) Could the worn tires contribute to the dragging feeling that car has when it starts to accelerate?2) I've also heard noises almost like a rumble shortly after I stop at a light, and rarely when I make any turns. I'm going to have them check the brakes and all, but the brakes seem fine and I never hear that noise when I step on them, only the two scenarios described. Could the worn tires be responsible for that sound too?
I guess ultimately I'm curious what sounds/issues a car could have as a result of worn tires (other than the obvious risks of wet roads, blown tires, fuel economy, etc).
Bought this truck a few months back. Nothing but problems. I always thought it has felt a little underpowered and hesitant. I chalked it up to being a 5.4l in a f250. Well now im thinking it has been a symptom all along.
Lately, the truck has been stalling at stops. Randomly, but not often. The truck idles at 750rpm when I start it, but after driving and then coming to a stop while in overdrive it idles at 400rpm. This seems too low to me.
It hesitates occasionally when giving it throttle. Just today it got really bad and was almost unresponsive. I would hit the throttle and it would just idle while randomly kind of shooting up in RPS and shuddering. It finally produced some error codes, it looks like, but I am afraid to drive it all the way to the autozone.
I am thinking TPS. Is the TPS attached to the pedal or is the TPS attached to throttle body under the hood? I've read some conflicting stuff about this. The good news is that if it is the TPS then it should act like a whole new truck after I replace it.
I have a 2014.5 Camry SE 4CYL 29K . Lately the car has been running so sluggish, it almost seems like it has lost power. Acceleration from stop or while driving seems to be a burden almost like if i was towing a boat. I have 5k since since my last oil change, and have the KNN drop-in air filter, so dirty air filter is not the problem. Not to forget that I always pump 91 octane from chevron. Why this would be?? ( should i have them change the spark plugs?) or could this be due to the transmission?
View 14 RepliesMy wife called to tell me that her Camry would barely pull away from a standstill this morning. Very sluggish until about 2500 rpm, at which point she said it took off normally. This accompanied by the Check Engine light, which just appeared this morning. I haven't been home yet to check fluid levels or take a test drive. Anything in particular I should be looking for?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota Camry with only 56,000 miles on it and I have noticed that the engine has been very sluggish on start-up first thing in the morning. This happens only when the weather gets cooler and is worst in winter. Warm weather, no problem. After I back out the driveway, I have to step on the accelerator 2-3 times before the car will go forward. The engine sounds like it's straining. After initial start-up, no problem. Now, lately I have begun seeing blue smoke coming from the exhaust . . . again only on initial start-up in the morning.
View 2 RepliesI just have a 1999 ES300 that is having a strange issue. I realize this is a toyota forum, but the engines should all be the same.
When you accelerate from a stop at full throttle, the car feels very sluggish moving up the RPM range, and acts as though it is missing and stumbling the entire way up. If you do the same acceleration at lets say 70-80% throttle its much faster and much smoother (like the car is supposed to be). Works just fine until the car hits like 55mph, then power just cuts out.
If I'm revving the car in park or neutral its the same story. Works well at part throttle, but full throttle it misses as its revving up. To me this seems like 100% some kind of weird electrical issue. I'm having a tough time tracking it down though.
Things I have done:
1. At one point i had an VVTi OCV code for the rear bank, so I've replaced both OCV filters, and removed tested and replaced the RH OCV valve (they were both working to spec, but the rear one had a little more play in it).
2. No codes by OBDii scanning.
3. Cleaned MAF
4. Checked intake hoses for rips (there are none)
5. TPS seems to be working well based on OBDii diagnostics.