Camry :: 1998 - Brake Pedal And The Dash Lights Goes Dim
May 26, 2012
My car sat for 3 months and then I tried to start it. When I turn the ignition on, everything looks fine until I hit the brake pedal and the dash lights dim. If I don't press the brake, the dash light dim when I turn the ignition to crank. Either way the starter either clicks or doesn't do anything and I hear a humming sound. My husband said, "The battery has been charged and measures 12.62 volts," but the cigarette lighter voltage measures 12.26, so they are not the same. I have tried jumping it and I still get clicks.
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I recently installed an aftermarket rear spoiler with third light. While searching and testing for a hot brake wire to hook up to, I somehow accidentally shorted out the brake lights. They will not come on when i step on the brake pedal.
I checked the corresponding fuse and it is still intact. The brake light symbol on the dash is "on" so I know the "brake light out" sensor is still working....is there something im missing in getting the brake lights to work again ?
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2004 with 214000 miles. Brake pedal goes to the floor, red dash lights are flashing, I just added a container of brake fluid and still no pressure at the pedal. I'm guessing master cylinder.
My question is: Even though my brake pedal goes directly to the floor, how am I getting the car to stop at the very end of the push? Do the brakes somehow work as a fail-safe even the the hydrolics are basically toast? I know that's a long shot, but it wouldn't be the first time I've been shocked over systems in this car.
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My 22 year old daughter drives my 98 Toyota Camry. The lights in the dash have burned out. I need to find out how to replace those bulbs or should I just tell her to be home before dark or maybe tape a flashlight to the steering wheel?
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Brake lights do not work. The turn signals work, the flashers work, and the running lights (head lights) work. I checked the bulbs and both filaments light up during the above processes.
I removed the brake switch at the pedal. When I was removing it, I heard some clicking under the dash. I connected the 2 pins with a wire (bypassing the switch), and got a spark a few times along with the clicking sound like a relay,and the brake lights would come on, but now nothing. No sparks, no clicking. The flashers and turn signals and running lights still work.
There are no blown fuses in the fuse box to the left of the steering column. Is there a relay somewhere under the dash just for the brake lights?
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I am having a problem with my 2004 Toyota Camry XLE V6 brakes. For the past couple months I keep seeing the brake dash light turn on and the brake fluid is constantly going down but I don't see any wet spots under the car. I needed rear pads so I kept thinking that it was just the fluid going down because of worn rear pads but I changed the rear brakes last weekend and still have this problem. Today when I went to drive the car for the first time of the day I heard this loud noise every time I stepped on the brake pedal. I checked the brake fluid level and it was a little below low so I filled it back up. I kind of feel like I've had to fully press down on the brake pedal lately to stop the car. There's plenty of brake power but I feel like I have to push all the way down and I don't remember it being like that.
Video of Noise: [URL] ....
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I have a 2009 Camry and both brake lights don't illuminate when I press the brake pedal but during night time driving, the red tailights are on indicating the bulbs aren't burnt. The third brake light on the top behind the rear seats does illuminate. By the way my tailights aren't the fancy LED ones just the normal stock bulbs. So what's the problem here? Is it a electrical issue?
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I noticed today, coming to work, my "Brake" warning light is on, on my dash panel. I engaged and disengaged the parking/emergency brake, thinking maybe was stuck there, but the light did not go out.
Is this related to my parking brake or my 4 wheel brakes? I have 4500 miles on this car. It is an XLE, 4 cyl. First time something like this has occurred since purchasing in December.
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I have just replaced the ABS Module, and replaced the brake fluid in my 1998 VW Passat 1.8T GLI. Now my brakes don't work at all, when I press the brake It goes all the way down. All the pipes are connected correctly and everything was put back the way it was, so I don't get why the brakes aren't working at all. Passat 1998 1.8T GLI...
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My clutch went out on my 98 Dodge Ram 2500 4WD the other day. I limped it home shifting like a big truck timing the shifts w/out the clutch. I replaced the slave cylinder w/ an aftermarket that had a bleeder. Bled it and got the pedal back up and it still wouldn't disengage the clutch. I replaced the master cylinder and started getting pedal back until I let the reservoir get too low and now after plenty of tries, I can't get any pressure built. I get a stream of fluid, but no air. Bench bleed the master and start over? I'm at a loss.
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I have a 1998 F 150 extended cab and the brake pedal is low. The front calipers and rotors were replaced last year because the left front caliper froze on and smoked the pads. I also replaced the brake booster and master cylinder because the brake booster showed signs of leaking vacuum. The whole system has been bled completely twice. After each bleed, the pedal was high and firm.
I have not found any sign of leakage and the fluid level looks ok and unchanged. The rear brakes look ok, but no work on them in last few years. Mileage is 198k. I had to hit the brakes hard on a muddy road a few weeks ago and the truck stopped straight, so the ABS seems ok. The problem is that the pedal has dropped down a few inches from where it was then the system was bled out. What to check next?
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i have the brake (!) the ABS and the VSC lit up after i got new bearings and new brake pads and rotors, the car was also stalling before the mechanic removed these bearing "dust cover" circles that must have been causing speed sensor interfernce bc the spedometer was stuck on 0....so the car seems to be done stalling after those were removed and all the big lights went off then i hit the brakes a few miles later and those three lights came on...
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I have a 2010 toyota camry that needs a parking brake adjustment. the car still stops with the transmission even if the parking brake pedal is pressed down. I changes the pads in the back and it seems to be a little better, but it's not as good as other Camry's I've been in. Where to look as far as the adjustments go? and possibly how if it's not the usual method.
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I bought my son his first vehicle, a 98 Bravada. We've had it less than a week and so far the major problem we have come across is the lights in for the gauge cluster in the dash are not coming on. First I thought it was a blown bulb so we replaced that. When we were putting the dash back together, I turned the truck on and turned on the headlights and got nothing. So I jiggled some wires thinking that it might've been a short or a loose wire and still nothing. It was getting dark so my son decided to put everything back together and try again in the morning. When he reconnected the connector for the dome/fog light, everything came back on. But when he moved the dashboard to put it back in place, everything went back out again. Again, I jiggled wires and nothing, not even a flicker. Now there's no lights in the dash and when he turns on the headlights, the radio lights go out along with the compass/MPG gauge located overhead.
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Easy to follow instructions on how to replace the burnt out dash lights on my 1998 mountaineer? I almost bought a new mountaineer; however, I decided to keep this one. It's been very good to me and it's paid off.
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can getting a new battery put in my 98' Monte Carlo mess with the dash lights to stop working?I really dont know if they were working prior , I just got it on Monday
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I have a 1998 Toyota Camry v6 with about 90k miles on it. When I am driving and hold the gas pedal steady the car jerks and hesitates. If I press down on the gas I can power through the problem. It also does this when I set the cruise control. There is no check engine light on.
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I have an 02 rodeo ls 2wd with 110k miles.. I am having a lot of brake issues. 3 months ago i had front pads rotor and rear shoe's installed.then i started to feel maybe once a day a hard chatter in the brake pedal and a clicking sound coming from the dash area..so i took it back to pepboys and they said it was warped drum..so they installed new drums as well.
Well the clicking noise behind the dash is still there and the chatter in the pedal still happens.....when the pedal chatters the truck wont stop so it's kindda scary.
Also sometimes (it will last for a day or 2 then disappear) when coming to a slow stop the brakes make a rubbing noise like a waa waaaa waaa waaa as the tire rotates to a stop..I've been to pepboys 4 times and of course the noise never happens for them.
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The entire dash goes dark (all meters, gauges) somewhat randomly while driving around. The headlights and taillights all stay on when this happens.
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I have a 98 K1500. The brake lights do not work. The left and right tail lights work as well as the left and right turn signals. The third brake light on the cab also works.
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I have a 98 f150 4x4, 4.6L 150k miles, during start up the blinker indicator lights on the dash illuminated and stayed on, when trying the blinkers they did not work, but if I shut the head lights off the blinkers do work and indicators respond normally. This is the same if I turn the fan blower on, blinkers don't work and indicators stay illuminated. Also I have found that the power windows, and 4wd no longer work. Other functions work such as power mirror, radio etc. all fuses under the dash and under the hood are good, I tried switching some of the relays to see if that changed anything but with no success . took the kick panel off and inspected the grounds and all seem tight. It looks like the main battery ground is just to the body and there is one solid ground from the frame to the body under the cab. all seem tight and don't appear to be corroded. Truck starts and runs great.
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