Camry :: 1998 - Brake Lights Will Not Come On When Step On Pedal
Apr 2, 2004
I recently installed an aftermarket rear spoiler with third light. While searching and testing for a hot brake wire to hook up to, I somehow accidentally shorted out the brake lights. They will not come on when i step on the brake pedal.
I checked the corresponding fuse and it is still intact. The brake light symbol on the dash is "on" so I know the "brake light out" sensor is still working....is there something im missing in getting the brake lights to work again ?
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My car sat for 3 months and then I tried to start it. When I turn the ignition on, everything looks fine until I hit the brake pedal and the dash lights dim. If I don't press the brake, the dash light dim when I turn the ignition to crank. Either way the starter either clicks or doesn't do anything and I hear a humming sound. My husband said, "The battery has been charged and measures 12.62 volts," but the cigarette lighter voltage measures 12.26, so they are not the same. I have tried jumping it and I still get clicks.
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I just noticed it this morning. When I step on my brake pedal, all 3 brake lights activate, then they start to sporadically blink, I don't think it's a fuse problem, since the 3rd brake light also blinks, and I believe it runs independent of the regular brake lights.
What to check.. No codes are being listed, checked that with my Scangauge II already. (2006 GLS)
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I have an electrical problem with the rear brake lights on my 03 Camry. The fuse keeps blowing the instant I step on the brake. I replace it and it blows immediately. So now i can't drive it because I have no brake lights. I'm thinking there is a short somewhere, where to start my troubleshooting?
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About 9/10 times when I step on my brake pedal (speed has not made a difference) I can hear and feel a hard knock under my car by my resting left foot. Started a few weeks ago. Haven't had work done to my brakes since May 2015 so I am thinking it is unrelated. What the issue might be?
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I have a 2003 Honda Odyssey and every time I step on the brake pedal, it blows my STOP fuse under the hood (which takes out my ability to shift out of park, use my horn and the brake lights also go out.) When I replace my fuse, the horn does not blow the fuse, it is stepping on the brake pedal one time, even when in park before turning the key over.
Things I have tried: Changing all of my bulbs and inspecting the socket areas, inspecting most of the wiring and taping areas that seemed fine but might have been touching metal, replacing my brake light switch.
What could be doing this?! I have figured out that I can manually shift out of park using the override slot, but no brake lights is not good.
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I have a 2010 Mazda 6 with an unusual issue. When I step on the brake pedal it resists for a quick moment then seems to "collapse" and go to the floor. The resulting braking is affected, but almost unnoticeable. When I quickly release the pedal and re-apply pressure the pedal doesn't quite "collapse" as bad, but still is not as resistant as it normally is. I have taken it to the dealership three times for this issue and they can find nothing wrong with the car, the brake pedal or brake systems. It doesn't happen all the time and is not weather or outside elements specific.
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I have a 2009 Camry and both brake lights don't illuminate when I press the brake pedal but during night time driving, the red tailights are on indicating the bulbs aren't burnt. The third brake light on the top behind the rear seats does illuminate. By the way my tailights aren't the fancy LED ones just the normal stock bulbs. So what's the problem here? Is it a electrical issue?
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I have just replaced the ABS Module, and replaced the brake fluid in my 1998 VW Passat 1.8T GLI. Now my brakes don't work at all, when I press the brake It goes all the way down. All the pipes are connected correctly and everything was put back the way it was, so I don't get why the brakes aren't working at all. Passat 1998 1.8T GLI...
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My clutch went out on my 98 Dodge Ram 2500 4WD the other day. I limped it home shifting like a big truck timing the shifts w/out the clutch. I replaced the slave cylinder w/ an aftermarket that had a bleeder. Bled it and got the pedal back up and it still wouldn't disengage the clutch. I replaced the master cylinder and started getting pedal back until I let the reservoir get too low and now after plenty of tries, I can't get any pressure built. I get a stream of fluid, but no air. Bench bleed the master and start over? I'm at a loss.
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I have a 1998 F 150 extended cab and the brake pedal is low. The front calipers and rotors were replaced last year because the left front caliper froze on and smoked the pads. I also replaced the brake booster and master cylinder because the brake booster showed signs of leaking vacuum. The whole system has been bled completely twice. After each bleed, the pedal was high and firm.
I have not found any sign of leakage and the fluid level looks ok and unchanged. The rear brakes look ok, but no work on them in last few years. Mileage is 198k. I had to hit the brakes hard on a muddy road a few weeks ago and the truck stopped straight, so the ABS seems ok. The problem is that the pedal has dropped down a few inches from where it was then the system was bled out. What to check next?
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I have a 2010 toyota camry that needs a parking brake adjustment. the car still stops with the transmission even if the parking brake pedal is pressed down. I changes the pads in the back and it seems to be a little better, but it's not as good as other Camry's I've been in. Where to look as far as the adjustments go? and possibly how if it's not the usual method.
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I have a 1998 Toyota Camry v6 with about 90k miles on it. When I am driving and hold the gas pedal steady the car jerks and hesitates. If I press down on the gas I can power through the problem. It also does this when I set the cruise control. There is no check engine light on.
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I have a 98 K1500. The brake lights do not work. The left and right tail lights work as well as the left and right turn signals. The third brake light on the cab also works.
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I have an 03 Nissan Sentra 1.8 with 200k miles. A year ago I started having an issue with the accelerator. When I drive the car the accelerator stops working. It idles perfectly, but when I step on the gas, I get almost no reaction. It does increase RPM about 200, but that is all. When I first start the car, the accelerator works for the first five to eight seconds, which leads me to think it is some kind of sensor. There is no check engine light.
I've tried replacing the throttle body (which includes the throttle position sensor), mass airflow sensor, and the fuel pump. I had it on to the dealership and they reprogrammed the computer, but the issue persists. Last bit of information I can think of is that the problem used to disappear when the car sat for a few days. So I had been driving it only once or twice a week. Unfortunately, the problem is now constant.
Many people talked about the throttle position sensor, which I replaced, but to no avail.
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Started having problems with my Chevy Malibu (1999, with 95,000 miles on it) while driving two times this week. Both times an alert warning flashed on my dashboard. The first time, flashed the brake check and ABS warning on the left side of the dashboard, and the second time the check oil and check battery warning on the right side. In both cases, after the warnings flashed, the car was still running, but stepping on the gas pedal resulted in no acceleration, but brakes still worked. The steering wheel also locks-up to the point where I can't turn any more. Both times, I stopped and shut off the engine, waited about 30 seconds and restarted, after which everything is fine and normal. The brake pads were changed recently, but not the rotors which may not be in very good shape.
I took the car to garage and found the belt is good, but I have replaced both the alternator and battery, and also changed the brake pads. Car ran fine for a day. Yesterday while driving, had another issue of the accelerator not working while in the middle of driving. Was going up a small hill, tried to accelerate, but stepping on the accelerator didn't do anything. A few seconds later, I could not press down on the pedal anymore (as if the car was off). Brakes worked, I could turn, and no warning lights. Turned off ignition, restarted the car, and everything was fine. Same problem with the accelerator as I first reported, but no problem with charging or turning the wheel, and no warning lights since the alternator and battery are new.
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I drive a 1991 F-150 Lariat Extended Cab. Out of the blue, my brakes decided they didn't want to work unless the pedal is about 1/2 - 3/4 of the way down to the floor. As soon as I release past that 1/2 mark, they shut off. While this makes it great for tailgaters, it does not make it great for police officers.
We have already replaced the switch thinking maybe it was that, but alas it was not. I was reading in a couple difference places about the multiswitch? However, the symptoms other people had were similar, but not the same. I never tilt my steering wheel, so I dont know if that's the issue!
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Ok, so my brake lights don't come on when I hit the pedal, but the instrument cluster does. I checked the fuses and they're fine.
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The brake lights on my truck are not working all the fuses are good, the bulbs are good, I have changed the brake switch. They still do not work, altho all the other lights at the rear work even tail lights.
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My clutch pedal has started squeaking every time I step on it (seems to work fine otherwise). If I hit it with WD-40, is there any risk of lubricating something that shouldn't be lubricated?
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The brake pedal is a little too high for my tastes, and I'd like to lower it a good inch. How I can do this.
I'm not sure if any Camrys come with adjustable brake pedals, but mine appears to not, and it's an XLE, which leads me to think they don't.
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