Camry :: 1996 V6 Stalls At Startup
Feb 1, 2015
We have an older Camry (1996 V6) with 159K miles on it that we are going to use for my gf's daughter's first car. It sat unused for a while and her father is giving her the car. The issue is that when you initially start it you have to keep the foot on the gas or it will stall. It does a bit better when it warms up but it can still stall if you let off the gas quickly. The plug wires look quite new so I expect the plugs are new as well (will confirm with her dad). I pulled the throttle body and it doesn't seem to be very dirty but I will clean it anyway and change the air filter. What I did notice is when I pulled the vacuum line (I'm guessing that's what it is, I am not mechanic) it was split longitudinally through the clamp. I am going to replace the hose but am wondering if the throttle intake is fairly clean if this could be the cause of the rough idle. I've watched a video on-line that shows how to clean the throttle body.
The battery looks fairly new but I don't have my voltage meter to test it. I have cleaned all the connections because I have heard that a weak battery or bad connection can also affect the way the engine runs. This Camry doesn't have a voltage meter, only a dummy light. The light doesn't come on so I'm thinking we don't have a problem with not getting enough power to the computer.
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When you start the car the theft system light comes on and then the car stalls. This has been a continuous problem for about two years. I can't find any pattern to when it does and does not start. Sometimes it will start again the next try, sometimes 30 minutes, sometimes I have it towed to the pontiac dealer after a week of not starting. Recently I have had the cluster sent out twice to check for problems, a new lock cylinder, and the bmc replaced. (about $1,150 total) This was done by a certified pontiac garage and the problem is still not fixed so I dropped it off again last night. Any suggestions? Also is there a point where I should get reimbursed for having parts replaced that were not broken? I have to believe that if the problem is still happening then there was nothing wrong with the lock cylinder or the bcm.
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I have '05 Camry v4. Everything was fine but three days ago I started to have issues. At first I tried starting the engine it would fire up with RPMs going to about 2000 as per usual start. Instead of going down to 800 as it usually does the RPMs just keep on dropping until car stalls. On the first day it started happening I would simply try to start the car again and it would start.
Progressively it would take me more tries to start the engine. It's always the same way (be it a cold start or a start after I've just drove for a while). First try - the engine starts and stalls right away and after that I have to keep on trying to start it for some time. So finally it wouldn't start at all. Starter cranks, battery fine, but the car simply would not start. Weird part about it, is that once the car starts it acts completely normal. No spikes in RPMs, no loss of power, nothing! At this point I just don't know what the hell it is.
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Every now and then (1-2 times a week) it stalls when I come to a stop. If I catch it before it stalls and rev it over 4K then it is fine. If not, I just need to restart the car. What is causing this sporadic problem?
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I own a 2002 Passat 1.8T and have had a check engine light for the past month or so. I was finally able to get it to one of my local mechanics who specializes in german made cars. He showed me where one of my vacuum lines had split open, then proceeded to splice the line with a t-fitting and a new length of hose and then reset the check engine light.
Well, the engine light has stayed off, but now when I start the car, it almost stalls out right after startup, then proceeds to idle and run fine. The mechanic thinks that since the car was running for so long with that vacuum leak that the ECU needs to to "reset" itself to the different pressure.
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So I'm nearing my wits end. I have an '11 GTI DSG, CCTA, second owner. The problem has been happening as soon as I bought it, when it was only 6 months old.
When the engine is not fully warm, but warm-ish, the engine doesn't reliably start on the first try. I have KESSY, so I push the start button and hold it. When I release it (not too soon, mind you) the engine will idle very rough. The tach will bounce between 200 and 700 rpm. Sometimes the engine will die completely. Other times, the idle will stabilize at the right engine speed after a few seconds of roughness.
It seems like this happens most often when the car has been parked for 1 to 3 hours. However, I have had it happen very rarely when cold as well as minutes after parking. But definitely it seems to happen mostly when it has been allowed to cool slightly for 1-3 hours.
I've got youtube videos. I'll post links. I've contacted VWOA. I have a case. They tested the fuel system and believe everything is okay. They told me they suspected bad gas. I religiously used Shell 93. So they, under warranty, flushed the fuel tank. Okay, so I switched to Chevron 93. Well, the problem still happens!!! As far as I know, no parts have been replaced yet.
My car is at the dealership now, they called me today and want to give up. This would be the 5th time I've taken it in for this problem.
One thing I forgot to mention. When the engine has just started and is idling roughly, if I stab the gas pedal a little, it will bring up the revs to 2-3000rpm and 90% of the time the engine will then settle into a smooth idle immediately after the revs drop. It's almost as if the mixture is so rich that it has got the plugs wet (if this were carbureted, that'd be the first thing I would suspect)
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I have recently purchased a 2012 facelift Tiguan diesel and it has a running fault. When starting the engine, 50% of the time it starts fine, 50% of the time it starts with a "misfire" and sputters for a short while (5-6 seconds) then stalls. If you Rev it a bit while it is sputtering then it clears the sputter and doesn't stall. It doesn't matter if it's hot or cold. Once it's running fine then the misfire never returns until you shut off the engine and then try to restart. The start stop also fails to cut in and I'm wondering if this could be linked. It had a new battery and alternator fitted a few months ago but a non start stop battery was fitted. This has now been changed for the correct battery but both problems still persist.
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I have a 07 accent coupe That is giving me a little bit of trouble. This morning when I started the car, it ran for about a minute and then quietly stalled. No hesitating or sputtering, just turned off as if I turned the ignition off.
So I tried to restart but it won't fire, i can crank it just fine and I have gas, so I'm not sure what could be the problem.
Sometimes though, when I fill up my gas tank. The car will splutter and try to stall for the first 30 seconds. I have to keep the throttle-up to keep it from stalling. But that only happens occasionally when I fill the gas tank.
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My truck starts right up, then immediately almost stalls or stalls completely. It also shakes a little when idling while its in Park. I just recently had my egr valve, pcv valve, spark plugs&wires, and fuel filter replaced. it has 104,000 miles on it. What could be causing it to do this?
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My 2010 F-150 5.4 L has developed a misfire. I don't have the codes right now but can get them. Replaced all plugs and 3 of the 8 cops. Misfires right after startup but as it warms up tends to smooth out. When it is acting up it almost stalls out at stops. Where to next?
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every 2 to 3 weeks the car will stall while driving and acts like it's out of gas. 3 tows and no mechanic can figure out what the problem is and the car starts the next day.
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It stalls when approaching intersections, and sometimes in traffic, always can be restarted, have had battery changed, fuel system checks out. have left at the garage and they can never get it to stall, but it still does it and sometimes three or four times during the day. Have not been to dealer, am frustrated and afraid of getting in accident. What might be causing this?
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1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo... A week or so ago we started the Jeep up and let it warm up before leaving for work. When we put it into reverse it promptly stalled. It would then crank but not turn over. After letting it sit for a couple hours it then started fine and has run fine since. Today just a few minutes ago I started the Jeep and drove it to the front of my complex to drop my son off to the bus, after getting back into it I went to put it in reverse and it stalled. Once again it cranks but won't turn over. We initially had thought fuel line freeze the first time, but this time it seems odd having been able to drive it a short distance first..
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My 96 civic stalls when i put in drive sometimes, problem comes go's, was told tps sensor or trans control solenoid ?
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I have a 1996 Ford Escort with ~128,500 miles on it.
When I start the engine (either cold or hot), occasionally the engine will sound like it is missing and, if I step on the accelerator to give it more gas, after ~10-15 seconds the engine runs fine and the problem disappears. The engines shuts off if I don't step on the accelerator.
This happens approximately 3-4 times per week and I drive the car every day. I never know when the problem will arise.
I took the car to a Ford dealer to have it looked at and the mechanic, without doing any testing, said that it was either a leaking head gasket or a cracked head. The mechanic later then ran some tests upon my request and confirmed that it was not a leaking head gasket or a cracked head. No further tests were performed at that time, so I still am left without any definitive answer as to what is causing the problem.
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'96 civic 180k miles. Just had timing belt replaced but has been clicking when cold so mechanic checked & adjusted valves. Still clicks on startup until warm, less than 5 minutes, as it has for the last year or more. What could be the problem?
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96 intrepid, 3.5 motor. Runs fine, no loss of power or odd behavior but will just die. Like flipping a switch. Refuses to start. I checked fuel pressure and it's good. No codes. Does this motor have a MAF? Sure can't find one. It has the odd split intake plenum. 1 air box but 2 separate inlet ducts to each side of motor. The motor is not transverse. It has 2 throttle bodies on the firewall side of motor with a shaft that runs between them. So eventually it starts. Idles fine. I watch it idle. And click, it shuts off.
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My 96 Buick Regal acts like it is out of gas after driving for about 10 min. Takes awhile to start, then runs rough if at all. After it sits, it runs fine again for about 10 min. I changed fuel filter, fuel pressure sensor and fuel pressure regulator.
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My car stalls repeatedly while I am driving. I quickly put it in neutral and start it again. This can happen 4 or five times on a 30 minute trip, or sometimes, not at all. Someone said it could be the Mass Air Flow Sensor or Meter. Tried a new one and the car is still stalling.
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I recently purchased a 1996 Ford Ranger with the 4 cyl. engine. The first 10 days I owned it it ran just fine. I then took a an hour drive to another city. After the first few stops there, as the temperature outside reached about 90, It started to sputter and idle very badly. After I got rolling it would would run fine. I decided to try to make it home. It ran fine at freeway speeds of about 70 mph. I had to stop once; it stalled out and would not start again. After waiting about ten minutes I tried again. It was still running rough, but I was able to get rolling and drove the rest of the way home without any problems until I was in town and had difficulty keeping it running at idle.
The next morning it ran fine again. A local mechanic changed the fuel filter, but the problem came back as soon as the temp neared 90 degrees. A mechanic friend who witnessed the problem said that it definitely sounded like a lack of fuel and not an electrical problem. Is there a way to troubleshoot without swapping parts? If the fuel pump is failing in warm weather, how is it possible that it runs fine at 70 mph, but not at idle? Engine temp gauge looks good. I did get one code after it died the first time (lean mixture, I think he said).
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The first time I turned on the AC this year, the car ran like normal for about 5 minutes. After that, I was coming to a stop light, I put the car in neutral, and it shut off. I could only get the car running again after I turned off the air. Then it would shutter very hard while idling. So far I have change the fuel filter and put cleaning stuff in the gas tank to clean the fuel injectors. When I tried running it again, it ran for about 10 minutes and stalled again. The car is a 1996 Nissan sentra. Check engine light doesn't come on, and the car has had regular oil changes. There is 191,000 miles on it.
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