Camry :: 1996 Car Crank Sputters Initially But Won't Start
Dec 17, 2012
This started when the weather got cold. The car crank sputters a bit initially then cranks only. I can get it started by turning the distributor sometimes. The day I got it started I checked timing and it looked normal from what I read (10 degrees from TDC).
The next day it did it again so after some testing again I replaced the distributor and the car was up and going again. On the third day the car started and ran normally and i thought the issue was solved until day 4 when this started again. I guess i'll check the fuel delivery.
Btw the only work done on this car in the last year other than oil changes was a timing belt (by someone else) the car a little crappy after that but started every day.
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Recently I have faced a new issue with my car. Sometimes and not always when I try to start my car, it does not. The lights on the dash board appears initially but once the car does not start they go off.
I then go and use my keys to hit the negative terminal of the battery. Once I do it for a couple of times(hit the terminal with key for about 10-15 times). All lights come up on and then I can start the car.
-- The terminal is not corroded.
-- The terminal does not look loose.
-- The battery has been checked and is GOOD
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1996 GMC Jimmy SLS. I've looked at the "starting issue" threads in this forum but none are quite the same as mine. When you initially try to start the Jimmy (cold or warm), it seems to just crank for 20-30 seconds before it even tries to fire. New plugs, cap, rotor, wires. Battery is 2 months old, and so is the alternator. What about the relays or starter. It's not an intermittent problem either. This happens EVERY time you start the vehicle. The jimmy sat for a good while before we bought it, but would that cause the starting issue? It seems to run fine after it starts, but hesitates (stumbles)a little coming up off idle when its warm.
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I have a 1996 Mazda B2300 & I heard that it is similar to the Ford Ranger.
Well the thing won't crank or start.
This is what I have done so far. I wanted to put a RPM meter on it. I followed YouTube videos on how to do it. I cut the Tan wire w. the yellow stripes & try to connect the wire to thr RPM meter. Then it won't start soo idk what to do. I also took put the PCM too. (I was looking for the wire) Now be honest, I talked to a mechanic, he said thag I might have blown my PCM or Blown another fuse. But when i put the key in to crank, it won't start ot click at all. The lights come on & it wants to start but won't start.
Then my mechanic tried to start it by the... Idk what it is called but you can start it & it wont evet start. It will crank like crazy but will not start at all.
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i have a 96 ranger with a 2.3l engine sometimes it will start right up and sometimes it has to crank 4 or 5 times to start i just gave it a tuneup and changed the oil and filter. should i run sea foam through the oil system,it sat for about seven years and i need to convert the idiot gauge to a real gauge.
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My 96 Explorer has been sputtering on me. I took a right turn one day and now its sputters at acceleration. It has a new fuel pump, filter, injectors, coil pack, plugs, wires, idle sensor, EGR valve. Also, all vacuum lines are good and not cracked or broken. My mass air flow sensor is also clean and clear. I have done all my own repairs on my cars and trucks all my life and thought I was good at it (not so sure about that now).
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Trying to diagnose the below clunk noise as the accelerator is initially pressed?
[URL] ....
If there belt tensioner wobbles like this on a 2azfe? There is a noise as you initially press the accelerator but then disappears. You can hear it in the video. I know there is a tsb on the tensioner but the belt doesn't look like its loosening off.
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry with 200k miles on it. It has been giving me trouble starting for a while and I was advised to replace my battery during my last oil change. The problem is when I try to start it does not start for a while. It makes a noise and tiisssssss and stop. tissssss and stop. But then third or fourth try, it works. I installed a new battery and I am still having the same problem. One cold day, it never started no matter how many times I tried. My roommate who is an aerospace engineering PhD candidate came out of the apartment with a teapot full of how water and poured it onto the terminals. For record, terminals are clean. When he did that, it worked.
What is wrong with car?
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The car was rear ended about a month ago, with minor bumper damage. A couple of days later it would not start or crank at all. I replaced the starter and solenoid unit and it appeared to be fixed. However, the car would not start or crank on a couple of occasions after the starter replacement. What might be going on? Maybe a bad starter? 2009 Base Camry...
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My Camry sometimes won't start and no crank either. When that happens, all the lights on dashboard are on. And, there is no clicking sound, just a soft hissing sound. Battery is newly changed.
I have to leave it for several hours and tried to start the car again, it started without any problem. Or try to jump it, it would start too. What is the problem?
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I have a 94 Camry with the 4 cyl. Replaced the Alt., Battery, and now blowing the 100 amp. ALT fuse. Replaced all of the relays under the hood. No power to the interior at all.
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2002 V6 Camry no crank/no start.
- Turn key, starter relay clicks, clock dims (headlights do not), no crank/no start.
When I arrived the battery appeared new, the connections clean / tight and I could put my hand on the starter relay and feel/hear it click. With a brass bar and hammer, I gave the solenoid a tap and the car started right up. We shut the car off, no start again, tapped the solenoid again and the car started right up... again. Bad starter contacts right? Sure.
Since the starter on the 02 V6 Camry doesn't have removable solenoid contacts, I went and bought a new solenoid (out of my pocket). I pulled the starter out, replaced the solenoid, re-installed and.... same symptoms, but tapping a new solenoid won't work...
Now I was so sure this was going to be the fix, that when I returned I only brought the tools I needed for the install... Frustrating. I did have an old meter in my truck that I used to measure voltage at the solenoid..
I read 8.5Volts to the solenoid coil with the key turned to START. I hooked up a jumper battery as well, and yes, 8.5v is what I read.... Now the meters batteries are weak, the readings it gives me are inaccurate, and I'll be going back Saturday with my good meter, more tools, and wiring diagrams etc.
Are there any common issues with this vehicle I could look for here that might cause low voltage in the solenoid's circuit; ignition switch, specific splice point, area where wires get chaffed or pins come loose in connectors etc?
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When I go to start my car in the morning the first 5-6 times I turn it over, doesn't start, than it starts than dies out about 3 times than it will keep a idle, but if I press the gas pedal when it starts to idle it always dies out but if I let it warm up when it starts to idle it doesn't die out? If I drive it and shut it off as long as the engine is warm it starts right up..
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I have a 1995 Camry 2.2 that will run perfect for 2 weeks, them randomly it won't start unless you crank on it for a minute or so. Parts I have replaced are fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition coil. This problem has occurred when the engine has been at operating temp and at initial start up.
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So I recently went out to start my car one morning and it decided to just crank and not start. A few days prior to that I was on my way into work and it shut off on me 4 times but started back up every time, it was only 5 degrees Fahrenheit that morning and I was under 1/4 tank, so just thinking I got some bad fuel or moisture in there I ignored it and went on about my business until it didn't start that morning. Since then I've searched on here and found a couple people that had similar issues and I tried what they had done to fix theirs, this is everything from trying the second key and on.
There is no power at the fuel pump except for the sending unit portion, and I did check with someone cranking the engine, it just has no power... So I thought, relay...well apparently they don't have a fuel pump relay on this car? It's all controlled by the ECU? I decided to hook up my scanner to see if there were any codes getting thrown, this would show if it was CPS or the like, nope, no codes at all showed up. I'm completely lost at this point, and have resorted to buying a subscription to all data as I used them in the past and had luck, well this time they've got nothing for me that I've found useful. I'm about to send the car off to the first person that's willing to pay a fair price. Glad it's warm enough to get the summer car out!
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My grandma has a '07 XLE 4cyl with around 65K on it.
Every once and awhile, completely intermittent, no consistency whatsoever it takes 4 seconds or so to get the car to actually start. Normally 1-2 seconds.
Was going to change plugs. See that you have to replace the whole pump/strainer assy. in the tank, no stand-alone filter.
No DTC's or any other lights on. Wondering about replacing the whole pump/strainer assy. will fix it or what the deal is. Can't order it online at Advance Auto parts, and called their store and the Denso one they show isn't even listed as available at the factory. Hope you don't need an OEM one, sure that's not cheap.
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I have had no problems with my Camry until one day it didn't crank or start. I first thought either battery or starter. Well the battery tested at 100%, alternator.
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As the title says I incorrectly wired my jump start cables wrong when I was trying to jump start it. My car seems like it's completely dead now and afterwards when I did wire it correctly and let it charge for about 15 minutes no luck.
My odometer and just about everything in the car seems dead. When I put it in accessory the only electrical thing that seems to be working is the light where my ignition key goes into and all my regular lights inside the car. Thing's that don't work are my power seat and stereo/cd player
I have replaced all visible fuses underneath my hood and underneath my wheel as well. Does the Camry have some sort of safety fuse just in case incidents like these occur?
I bought a new battery but my car still won't crank or turn over. Some say it might be the solenoid or the starter. But I don't know.
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Car in question is a 2003 Camry XLE I4. On rare occasion when I try to start up the car, it would crank but doesn't start. Sometimes two or three hours later and it would start right up with no problem. This has been going on for months now.
Well today the car all of a sudden died on the freeway. It was running like usually and next thing I know, it just died. In all cases no check engine light pops up at all. I got it towed back to the shop and the mechanic tried to hook up a scan tool but it couldn't connect to the ECU. Also when the key is turn over to the "on" position before starting, no CEL pops up at all. All fuses and relays are good.
ETA : It turns out the wiring under the fuse box was bad. The fuse box and wiring were either replace or repair. Since this is an intermittent problems, we will see if this is indeed the fix after a couple of months.
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I have a major issue the wife 09 camry won't crank nor start. It all happened after i touched the alternator and heat shield with a rachet . She was complaining about her battery light coming on and flashing so I goes out to see and noticed the ark coming from the alternator so i reached down to touch the wire while the car running and hit both the heat shield and alternator together sparks jumped off of course . I shut the running car off then tightrb up the alternator loose bolt. When I tried to restart the car it wouldn't turn over. I checked most of the fuses and now I'm lost and stuck....
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I brought the car home last night and shut it off. This morning went out and engine will crank but doesn't show any signs of fuel or spark. Removed one plug and grounded it to block while someone cranked it. No spark. I dumped a little fuel in the cylinder just to see if I could get it to cough or something, but nothing. I tried looking for blown fuses under hood and under dash but I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary. I pulled out all relays and tapped them and reinstalled. I tried disconnecting the battery to reset ecu and that didn't work either. There are some relays marked that I don't recognize.
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