Variable idle. Ignition new as is air filter etc. Idles fine in neutral, a bit rough in drive, smooths out with AC on. Sometimes it's also fine with AC off. Sometimes not, literally stop to stop. Removed and cleaned IAC. Reinstalled with new gaskets etc. 30 ohm resistance between center and either side pins. Manual specifies 19.3 to 22 ohms. Is the 30 ohm reading enough variation to indicate a bad IAC in need of replacement?
View 1 RepliesI have a '94 Camry that has not been started in a year. I'd like to either see if I can get it running again or donate it somewhere. But I heard recently that the onboard computer in a Camry has to be restarted if it's been idle a certain time. I've tried unsuccessfully to get any life signs when I tried to jump start it. Is this computer issue true?
View 6 RepliesI have an 04, vin 70k+ V8, Nav/Air Susp. with 35k miles. My problem seems pretty specific:
I have a solid whistle in the front right area of the truck above very slow speeds. It really does sound like air moving, so I was thinking mirror/rack, wheelwell, etc. But, when I push the throttle, even a little, it subsides greatly...almost gone. That's what makes me nervous.
Of all the posts I read, the only one that seems like it might be my problem is the driveshaft bearing, maybe because of the torque, etc placed on it during acceleration (I'm no mechanic). I would think that any aerodynamic type problem would have nothing to do with slight throttle changes.
Am I on track? Common occurrence? Anything I should tell the dealer? I'll probably take all this to them when I do the 40k service. I also got a the running gear fault last week, but it hasn't returned. Do you think my Air Susp seals/piston rings are going too?
So I noticed this ever since I got my Elantra (2013). When I have Active Eco on, it seems like the AC fan speeds up and slows down a little, sporadically.
View 9 RepliesIs it normal to have variable fan speeds when Ac is on? I understand on WOT Ac deactivates on some cars but when it happens I'm just cruising along coming to a stop, the fan speed increases.
View 1 RepliesIs it would be possible or easy to upgrade the wiper control in the S to the variable int. wipers in some other models? I tried doing a search but I didn't see this subject ever being brought up.
View 14 RepliesI was sure it was a wheel bearing I'm at 198k miles. I replaced all the wheel bearings in the car and the noise still persists. The old bearings were definitely in need of replacement so I'm fine with that.
Neighbor mentioned my rotors looked warped and they may be vibrating the calipers but the they don't seem to vibrate harder under heavy braking. There's no vibration through the steering wheel.
When I did the front bearings the CV boots are still holding up. I kinda busted some of the dry and cracking boots around the tie rods and ball joints but that's for another day.
Anyways, I run winter tires all year round being in snow belt and they are cheaper. Wear is worse on the front tires outside edges from cornering and I'm gonna replace and go for an alignment soon.
It has to be something that is spinning on the car from the noise I'm getting. Worse at higher speeds, constant variable humming.
Our 2011 w/140,000 miles has a variable front end noise that I suspect from past experience with other vehicles is a bad wheel bearing. I've seen posts of the procedure for replacing the Gen 2 bearings that requires the hub and bearing be pressed out and new bearing back in which would limit the DIY'er, but looking at the replacement parts diagram for the Gen 3, it appears that the hub and bearing unit is bolted in with 4 bolts and may not need a hydraulic press to install.
View 4 RepliesI posted the following issue a year ago about my car, but the problem continues. when my 06 v8 phaeton is cold, there is variable engine rpm's with my foot steady on the gas at low speed and a flat surface. ie 1500 to 1700 to 1500 to 1700 etc. i can hear it feel it but it's subtle. the engine starts easy and runs perfect otherwise.
View 1 RepliesMy son has a 1994 Celica GT with the 2.2 5S-FE engine. Recently told me his heat didn't work very well, he had mentioned it last year but due to extreme cold we've been having I decided I would look at it for him. So anyway, I started by pulling the thermostat thinking it was probably stuck open or possibly someone had removed it completely, well there was one in there and it was closed so I tested it in boiling water, worked fine, replaced it anyway.
So then I checked behind and under the dash, thinking maybe something was opening or closing completely, but they are connected and operating, when I move the controls inside I can hear the doors moving and closing and all the linkages under the dash are connected and operating. Still no heat, so I figured the heater core was clogged since the return hose didn't seem to be getting hot, or the heater control valve was bad, pulled the heater core hoses, checked the heater control valve, control valve worked fine and was not plugged. Flushed the heater core, nice clean antifreeze, I then checked it with air, manual said put 6 psi on the input and make sure it was coming out of the return, which it was.
Reconnected everything, bled the air, still nothing, took the hoses off and connected the return hose to the heater control valve, bypassing the heater core, both hoses got hot. Sure seemed like a clogged heater core, did the air test again with 2 psi, still made its way out the return side. Reconnected everything again, still same issue, return hose never got hot. So while it was running hot with thermostat open, I removed the return hose, nothing coming out of the core, then I revved the engine and it started coming out, reconnected it and ran car at 3000 RPM, finally a little heat out of the vent, about 115 degrees by thermometer placed in vent, as soon as I let it idle the temp fell back to 80 within a minute or so.
Now I figured the water pump impeller was worn/corroded or was slipping on the shaft, so I pulled the whole thing apart. ( I should mention that the entire cooling system is very clean I don't see any corrosion anywhere) Any of you that have done this knows what a pain in the butt the whole job is, anyway, when I got it apart I was surprised to see that the impeller looked like new and was definitely NOT slipping on the shaft... what the heck???
When I took the pump off the housing I noticed the housing had a lot of wear, it look as if the previous owner let the water pump fail to the point that the bearing wore enough that the impeller ground down the raised boss inside the housing, I though AH-HA, this has got to be the problem, water is not actually pumping/circulating inside the pump as efficiently as it should, hence the reason I only get coolant into the heater core at high RPM. So i replaced the housing, the water pump, and while I was in there I did all the oil seals, and the timing belt. Well I got it all back together, fired it up added coolant, let the engine come up to temp, bled air, still NO HEAT!
I have a 94 gt with the 5sfe and at idle with the a/c on and up to operating temp the idle goes from 750 to 500 and cycles like that. It sounds like it is when the a/c compressor is cycling on and off but the compressor never disconnects the clutch unless I turn the a/c off. also when it drops in rpm the engine shakes bad. I have checked all the motor mounts and all are good and the rear one has a solid mount insert.
View 1 RepliesMost of the time my speedometer isn't working. my cruise control works the same way. i've read that it could be the cruise control module or the variable speed relay.
View 1 Replies My 94 Toyota Pickup is having a strange intermittent issue. Engine will run hot, like the thermostat is stuck periodically. Does not overheat, just runs much closer to the red than usual. Again this only happens sometimes. It is worth noting that it is winter here in Northern Sonoma County, CA, so it may actually get into the red if I were driving around in the summer. I have also not taken it on trips over 30 miles when it was doing this.
When this problem occurs (e.g. the engine has been running hot) and I shut the truck off and say run into the store, then come back to a heat soaked engine it idles very rough when started (like it's missing on one cylinder). Once I put it in gear and start driving the idle smooths out and I have no problems. Problem has been going on for about a week.
Sticking thermostat seems obvious but that does not explain the rough idle on start up. Or does it. If so why?
My 94 gt doesn't have the idle speed adjustment screw like the manual says it should so how does one adjust the idle speed?
View 7 RepliesI am doing a side job and this thing has a rough idle. I put the scanner on it and pulled code 43 ESC and a ritch and lean code from the O2 sensors. I know the O2 codes are probably from running rough. It has been a while but could the knock sen be the problem or the ESC itself? I looked for the ESC by the throttle body but didn't see it. I remember what they look like but this is a late model 94 are they some where else?
View 4 RepliesMy 1994 mercedes C220 stalls at idle. the local mercedes dealer told me that it is caused by the alternator overcharging. can this be true??
View 2 RepliesI have a 94 Cobra Mustang with a 5.0. For the past few months it has had an erratic Idle and stalls when trying to idle. I've had a number of suggestions on how to fix it and nothings seems to work. I checked for vacuum leaks, changed PCV, new plugs, new IAC valve, tested ICM and throttle TPS and even adjusted idle. Still no luck.
View 3 RepliesI have a 94 C2500 suburban with a TBI 454BB. Obviously, I'm not concerned with fuel mileage, but I am currently getting about 4 miles to the gallon because the idle is stuck at 1800RPM. Normal idle for my model according to the index book is 750RPM. it's usually pretty close to that when operating normally (+/-25RPM). 3 days ago I did my biannual throttle body cleaning. Took it completely off replaced the gasket cleaned the throttle body and put it all back together. This is when the problem started... It now idles at 2300 RPM, it threw the code for bad idle air control valve, and I figured I probably got the plug wet when cleaning the throttle body, so I went ahead and ate the 60 bucks and replaced it.
Went through the reset process for the ECM to learn the new one and it the idle has come down to 1800RPM, it also literally DUMPING fuel through the injectors into the top of the throttle body. While I don't believe it is actually running rich, it seems more like the idle is trying to compensate for the excess fuel that is being dumped into the top end. Now, Before I go any further I want someone else's input. "I" think it is a also a bad throttle position sensor that probably got wet when cleaning the TB. But I am worried it could also be the PCM has finally gone out, although this is probably not likely because the entire ignition is run by this and if it was bad, it would stand to reason that it wouldn't run at all. Or it could be a bad vacuums control module. I have checked all my vacuum lines and do not have any leaks, so I know that isn't the problem. So that's where I am. I am hoping to check the leads on the TPS today with a ohm meter. I know my resistance levels.
94 Chevy W-4 wheel-lift wrecker 5.7L TBI4l80e trans
Had a run of about 100 miles round trip on Wednesday. On the way back running at 65 mph on the interstate, got a couple of quick muffler-end back fires and engine died. Coasted to shoulder. Had memory of almost exact same incident last year and it was dead ignition module. Fortunately had a spare (used) module in glovebox. Swapped it out and engine started right up. Remainder of trip didn't quit, but ran very rough, lots of stumbling and getting it up to 60 mph was a struggle. Also when I got on surface roads it died twice when I was sitting stationary. It would restart, BUT only after cycling key; if I just turned to the key to "start" from "on" it would crank but not fire.
Limped it to my tow buddy's shop where I freeload and told him the tale. He said, "throw those old spare modules away and get a new one". Called the local parts house and had them send two, one for installation and one for glovebox. Took for test drive and appeared to be running okay except idle was a bit low. Couple of hours later went on a call and first stop sign I came to, went "blip" and I'm dead in the water again. Same story as earlier, must turn key off and back on to get it to fire. Drove rest of day without incident. Yesterday, no issues all day, drove total of about 120 miles both highway speed and surface. Gassed up this morning and mpg was above average (yay!), actually about .5 above average which is significant improvement (about 6%). Success?
Today died four times while sitting still. Same having to cycle key for it to fire. Did some quicky t/s to satisfy my curiosity about the key cycle thing. With truck running, pulled fuel pump fuse to kill truck. Then reinserted and it started up without having to turn key to off. Tried same thing by pulling one of the module plugs to simulate loss of signal to ignition. Reconnected and again fired up without key cycling.
No codes at any time since this came up.
Swapped out the module since I had bought a spare, no change.
Ohmd the ignition coil and no problems noted. So far, only dies sitting still at idle.
Additional info:
Plug wires, cap, and rotor <1000 miles. Distributor low miles and negligible play in shaft. Pickup coil checks right in middle of ohm range. None of these, of course, should need to have the ignition key cycled to restart if they caused a stall.
Next up will be replacing ignition relay (had to order), but I'm not very optimistic.
1994 ford f250 7.5 I have replaced thermostat to a 185 from a 192 new fan clutch dam truck still gets pretty hot at idle or if I am at a stop light and fast It shouldn't run this hot. It gets to 95 degrees never had this problem before only thing I can think of doing Is a radiator flush and clean it really good have checked for obstructions in fins but clean.
View 2 RepliesI have a 4.3l CPi vin w 1994 s10 zr2 .... At a idle it revs up and down from 500.-1500rpms? Loading up on fuel and dies after idling after a short time. And while going down the road it cuts out like its going to die then it catches itself. Yesterday I put a new idle air controls sensor on and it fixed nothing !!!!!
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