Camry :: 1994 - Rear Drifts Around While Driving On Snow
Feb 13, 2014
The car was in an accident last spring where it went off the road and side swiped one of those cable barriers between the sides of a highway. It actually spun around backwards, hit the barrier on the rear passenger side corner smashing the tail light on that side. Then slid the whole passenger side into it roughing up that side and knocking off the side mirror.
Amazingly both passenger side doors work, the trunk works and it was able to drive away. I drove it around gingerly for a bit and it seemed to be fine. I took a big 4 hour trip up north in it and it had zero problems (other than looking like hell).
I had new tires put on before the accident and are nearly at factory new tread. I can't see any noticeable uneven wear on them. This winter however, every time there is fresh snow on the roads it feels like the back is shifting back and forth like its out of control. Its not vibration like unbalanced tires or ice on the rims. It feels like the rear is swinging back and forth about a foot about every 3-4 seconds. At first I thought maybe a wheel was loose so I jacked up the car at each wheel and wiggled them, they are solid. There is no play in the steering, so i don't think its rack and pinion. I've gone around corners purposefully quick on snow to see if its a grip thing, and it doesn't slide.
The only conclusion I can come to is that the frame is tweaked or my suspension is messed up. On dry, or even wet roads everything seems fine. I do notice a bit of the "drift" when I hit a decent bump or pothole, although then it feels more like a slight "shift" at the rear.
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I purchased an 03 Excursion with 87K miles strictly for towing back in January. I've been driving the tuck once a week since, just to have it not sit in the driveway. I've noticed while driving down the road the truck will wander left/right randomly and I have to micro manage the wheel to keep it straight. It's more noticeable at higher speeds. It's more noticeable while towing.
My camper is 6K empty and loaded 9k. I put water in it once at campgrounds, so I don't drive with all that weight, so I am somewhere in between. 6 and 9. While towing and I hit a woop in the road, the truck comes out pushing me other than straight. If I let go of the wheel, it drives straight, meaning alignment feel true.
I am not a mechanic by no means, but here is what I've gathered so far;
From my door sticker, I have D code springs in the front and G code in the back.
My front stabilizer shock is looks wet. (OEM or after market?)
My shocks look original, I should replace.
My front bump stops are gone.
While towing, I am riding on my rear bump stops.
If and when I need to replace parts, should I go with OEM or aftermarket? I am probably getting a head of myself, but; Is it possible to add leafs to rear, or not even worth it. Would it be cheaper to buy the smallest lift kit vs. changing springs?
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Since our weather has turned cold with lows just above 0ºF and highs around 10ºF, and we've had 9" of snow this week, I have been driving a seldom used 1994 LeSabre rather than my "nice" car, an '08 Grand Marquis. There's no point in exposing the newer car to salt and slick streets. At least the interstates are completely cleared off. The LeSabre runs great despite its 177K miles. The only issue I have with the Buick is that it has died repeatedly after a 20 mile run up or down the interstate. I lift my foot or tap the brake pedal to turn off the cruise control, and the engine dies. The first time it did it, I pulled over, stopped, put it in park and restarted it. Now that I know what it's doing, I keep rolling, put it in neutral, and restart it before getting to the bottom of the ramp. I does it ALMOST every time after a long 65 to 70 MPH run. It was not doing it the last time I drove it at more bearable temperatures, in the 40s or 50s so it may not be a problem next week. It does not seem to do it going from stop light to stop light, even at low temperatures. It has the 3.8 Liter V-6. Why it might be doing this?
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When going short distances, half mile to two miles, and I turn off the car it will not REstart. Dash lights come on but engine does not make a sound. No clicking, no engine trying to turn over, nothing. After the car sits for awhile and cools off it starts up with no hesitation at all. If on the road for several minutes the car does not have this problem no matter how far or how many times I turn it off and on. The battery checks out ok. Someone said it could be a ground wire loose. What do you think. Is this something I could do myself?
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I have a 1994 Toyota Camry. Took it to a shop to repair an oil leak. They had to dismount the transmission to get to the gasket. I got the car back and the transmission was messed up. Took it to a transmission shop and they told me that the transmission "cable" wasn't positioned correctly by whoever had done the work and they could fix it. They told me it was safe to drive it until my appointment. The engine was revving too high before changing gears and while driving home, I heard a loud rattling noise in the engine and my car stopped in the middle of the road. I'm told that a rod has broken inside the engine. My question is: can this in any way be related to the transmission cable not having been set/positioned correctly?
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I am a new owner of a 2007 Prius and as the snow will soon be here, will driving in B mode rather than D provide greater traction?
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Driving in the snow with the low resistance tires. Not necessarily on the Prius C, but any Prius as I assume they all had the tires. I've had nothing but great success with my C.
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When its heavy snow; which mode I should drive; I have 2012-Prius 3rd Gen - 26K Miles; I am driving in Mountain area every day ? The tires are still in good condition.
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I've been dealing with this for 2 years now and its going to snap my axle shaft one of these days. I am scared to take it out in a snow storm because the truck will clunk and then release. Its a split second thing but its enough to notice and make me worry a lot. I cant figure out why and ive done the plugs and wires but that didn't solve the problem. It only happens when its snowing or when I drive though a gust of wind that has stired up some snow. I know it must be something electrical because it only happens when there its cold and wet and not all the time. In the rain it does not matter but when it snows i just wont go out at all. The truck is a 2003 4.0 4x4 with a manual. Not a function of the 4 wheel drive it happened in 2wd as well.
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Why the "esc off" light goes off in my 08 elantra se? This has happened 3 times in the last 4 months, every time while I am driving in rainy/snow shower conditions. I tried reactivating esc, but it does not allow me until I turn the ignition off and back on. Is this supposed to happen when it rains? I would like to take the car to the dealer for diagnosis but it happens at night and not close to a hyundai dealer.
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2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHC, 138K miles on it. Runs like new. Except this butt problem since mid November 2010 (2 months) First time this happened it sounded like someone smacked the rear end with a 10 pound maul. BOOM! Was in blizzard conditions. Does it in AWD or 4WD. No tire slippage when it happened or happens. Only happens when:
1. Snowing good or in blowing snow from car ahead of me.
2. Not while accelerating or coasting.
3. In overdrive (not sure when in just third gear).
Had rear end inspected at Ford dealer and no issue was found. Complete driveline given clean bill of health. Dealer did PM of new lube and did the transfer case and front end at the same time as it was due anyway. After this, it usually (but not always) starts as an engine miss feeling and works it's way up to the sudden and violent "BOOM" and then a mixture. Anyway, did it again. Changed plug wires. Did it again. Tranny shop test drove while snowing - no root cause but certain it's not the tranny. Saw B1352 code and said take it to the dealer. Justanswer.com FORDEXPERT guy says B1352 is most likely the X-fer case shift motor. Inspected and replaced shift motor as it had signs of near death and on borrowed time. Did it again. Ford dealer Tech test drove while snowing and freaked out when BOOM happened. He's certain it's ignition. NO CODES!!!
Cylinder #3 (mostly) and cylinder #1 (little bit) showed slight ignition issues on diagnostics. Pinched clip in boot so they were tighter on plug and plugs were inspected OK. Sprayed water mist on coil and it's OK. Did it again. NO CODES!!! 70K on plugs so installed new plugs and second set of new plug wires thinking that RH tire is kicking snow on #1/2/3 plugs and causing short. Did it again. Tonight, when driving the last 10 miles in light snow with bucking 6 times, thinking it might be snow ingestion, I checked filter housing and I see just traces of snow in housing and snow packed into filter pleats at just one corner about 2" triangle. Still plenty of clean filter area I feel. (NAPA brand) filter is 6 months old and looks quite good. After reassembly, I feel around seam of housing and discover front seam not tight. Aha! Perhaps snow is getting into combustion chamber. Pushed in housing bottom and "thump" now it's tight and proper. Battery terminals tight and super clean. Dit it again but just once in 8 miles and was slight engine miss feeling - no buck or kick.
Other possibilities (I'm thinking):
Injectors?
main power to coil?
Is there are snow/dirt screen missing on tube into filter housing?
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I just bought a Toyota Corilla (2005). The rear window defrost works in a way but it does not melt the snow/ice. Is it normal? I used to have American cars, and the defroster always melted snow quickly.
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I just purchased a 2014.5 Camry and winter is around the corner. I was going to buy a set of oem 17in SE rims and put snow tires on with out the tpms sensors. The question I have to ask is once the light comes on can you disable the traction control. Reason I ask is because on my 2011 accord it forces the traction control on and is sucks. Snow tires without the sensors.
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I have a 2007 Camry XLE, all the bells and whistles it was offered with. It's got about 110k miles and is extremely well maintained.
I live in Vermont, where every road is a hill, and every hill is covered in snow. Recently, my Camry decided that it no longer wants to conquer these hills. I will be driving up, and suddenly it will stop. The engine is running, but no power goes to the wheels. I'll mash the pedal to the floor, and the RPMs do not even waiver from the idle position. And we're not talking mountains, I'm talking a nice easy hill with an inch of snow. Tires are new all-seasons etc. The traction light will 'maybe' flash, but nothing out of he ordinary.
A few weeks back, my Check VSC display came up, but went away with a little more driving. Could that have done this?
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Enjoying taking trex out in the snow here in the northeast this afternoon... When I accelerate, I hear a groan coming from the front axle and the ESP light blinks on/off.. Is it normal? Still happens if i turn ESP off...doesn't happen in my wife's glx passat (4motion), so it seems unusual to me...
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It's happened to me the last 3 times I've taken my truck out and drove through some deep snow. I have a hard time shifting the transmission from drive to park. The snow must get packed up under the truck near the shift linkages.
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While driving into town during a recent snowstorm, my truck started to misfire quite badly. The check engine light started to flash and then remained on as I went to the auto parts store. The code indicated cylinder two misfire. I don't a few things of dry gas in the tank and let it run for a few minutes which seem to solve the problem.
Since then, however,every time the engine gets even a little bit wet it starts to bark again. It usually lasts a few minutes then goes back to normal. Typically, I would have replace the plug wires. When I lifted the hood of my truck I realize I knew nothing about it.
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Purchased a 2017 santa fe sport limited back in april 2016.
It's been great but since day one the front and rear driver side doors have retained water after rain/snow.
When I open the doors, water just gushes out from the door panel holes along the door, and it's now become an issue because of winter.
The water freezes and door become hard to open, as well as the added weight to the door and condensation that may end up rusting parts...
My dealer took the car for 3 days and took it apart, but said they couldn't find out why water is being retained, and only released when I open the doors...
I'm not too sure what to do, Hyundai Canada denies the issue, and I do have lots of video footage and frozen pictures...
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I have a 99, F-350, V-8 &.3 Diesel, 6 speed with 2 WD. Is there a way to temporarily lock both rear wheels to obtain better traction in the snow?
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I purchased a used 2003 Echo last week. The all season tires are on 15 inch rims. I would like to buy snow tires for this car. The question is - snow tires on 15 in rims or snow tires on 14 in rims? I understand that 15 inch rims was an option selected on the original purchase. Without this option, the car would have had 14 inch rims.
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Just recently I've noticed clunking in the rear of the car while driving on bumpy roads, on semi-smooth roads the clunking barely happens. I jacked up the rear of the car today to check for broken brackets/bolts/ect. and found nothing. Re-greased the sway bar bushings and tightened down the endlinks a tad (part where it attaches to the sway bar, the top ones look tight but didn't check. ). Cant seem to find anything wrong. The car is 40k miles, had tein solara springs since 3k miles, got the 23mm ur racing sway bar put in at around 15-20k miles, and then bc coilovers around 35k miles. My best guess is that the rear endlinks are done and need replacing.
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