Camry :: 1994 - Leaking Anti Freeze From Weep Hole
Nov 3, 2012
I have a 94 Camry left to me by my father inlaw when he died a year ago. I notice antifreeze coming from a weep hole just above one of the alternator mounting brackets. Whats involved with replacing the water pump and timing belt? Im guessing thats what it is and while I am in there I will replace the timing belt as I dont believe either have been replaced. The car has about 160,000 miles on it. I kept my Windstar going for about 250,000 miles before my daughter wrapped it around a tree so Im sure its something I can handle. The problem is time as we are getting into winter. Is it a major job or something that can be done in a few hours?
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Ok my 2000 Toyota Celica GTS is having 2 very bad issues.
1st - It is hesitating very bad when doing "cold starts" and nearly dies when I turn the A/C on (engine code reads : Random/Multiple Misfires on all 4 cylinders)
2nd - I have to put in 1 pint of Anti Freeze every single WEEK! It is not leaking on the ground as far as i can tell too.
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I am having trouble finding an oil leak on my truck. the oil is coming out of the weep hole on the bottom of the bell housing where the cover over the torque converter is. There is no oil in the front of the valley under the fuel bowl/hpop. But there is a small puddle in the rear of the valley. I have changed all the turbo pedestal orings. Maybe the ebpv rod? But i cant see it leaking from there so im not sure where its coming from. Also have to do the front main as is leaks a little onto my lower radiator hose. How difficult are those?
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Soon after buying my new 2011 Elantra, I smelled that pungent anti-freeze smell when the engine gets hot. When I brought the car in for its first oil change, the Dealership did a pressure test but did not find any problems. During the next oil change (4 months since purchase) I noticed the fluid level below the Low level. The dealership did a second pressure test but nothing unusual. I thought it was odd that the anti-freeze level would be low after just 4 months, but the dealer was not concerned because it was a hot summer. However, he did inform me that I was the second Elantra owner that had the same complaint that same day. The smell continues when I run the engine through rush hour traffic (stop and go). I purchased florescent leak detector fluid with the UV light. It looks great when I shine the light on the coolant reservoir but I have yet to see any florescent leaks even though I still smell the anti-freeze.
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Is this normal for the GS300 to loose anti-freeze coolant in its reservoir? My 2006 GS300 had little coolant in the reservoir on Monday and I took it to my local Toyota dealer to check it out. They recommended me to do a flushing instead of draining and filling for the coolant since the previous owner never changed it. I did the flushing and they put it Toyota SLLC (pink) coolant as well as filling up the reservoir to full mark. Today I check the reservoir again and it is 1" lower. Is this normal? I check the radiator, engine, hoses but I did not see any leak. The temperature is fine, no overheating or anything.
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I have a 5.0L with around 144k mileage. I noticed a reasonably severe leak of anti-freeze the day after I had the oil changed at a shop (coincidentally?); nothing out of the ordinary on that day. The temp's have never showed as being beyond normal. I saw that there was a bit of weeping from the water pump, so changed that believing that the gaskets might be the real culprit (third pump on this truck). I re-filled the system with fluid (green silicate as the system had been modified several years back), ran the engine, and found that there is still a leak, not as severe, but most definitely bad. It honestly appears to be dripping at the oil pan gasket, just left of the crank on the lower end. The location doesn't really seem logical to me.
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I have noticed the last couple of days that after the truck has been running and well warmed up I will on occasion smell that sweet smell of antifreeze. I can find nothing in the interior of the cab, If I raise the hood there maybe a faint smell of antifreeze.
I have approx. 31,000 miles on the truck and a few months to go on the bumper to bumper warranty.
Does this sound like the overly popular radiator leak starting to raise it's ugly head? Is there another likely culprit?
Where do I need to be looking to locate the source of the antifreeze smell.
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I read a lot here about the best antifreeze coolant. If the truck will never, and I mean never, be exposed to freezing temperatures, do I need antifreeze? Our lowest ever temperature was 66 degrees or so.
What should we use? I have a 2004 550.
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My truck had a small puddle of anti-freeze under it last week. It has been sitting for a couple of weeks with no issues until I noticed the puddle. After I cleaned it up, it hasn't leaked for a few days. I obviously can't find a source. What could have caused it to leak and then suddenly stop?
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91 Dodge D150 1/2 ton truck with a 318 (5.2L). Approx. 135K miles. Noticed a leaking freeze plug right behind the starter. Removed the starter & replaced the offending plug. I've also replaced other plugs on the block as needed in the past. While I had the starter out, I went ahead and replaced it as it was getting old & tired. After buttoning everything up while adding coolant, I got a major waterfall coming out between the trans and the engine block.
My project for today is to remove the transmission so I can get to the rear plugs and replace. How many plugs are back there? I'm obviously changing all the plugs back there along with the rear main seal. Is there any advantage going with the brass plugs or should I just stick with the regular ones?
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Mine has a 4.0 V6, the freeze plugs are leaking coolant, the guy at the shop said it will require pulling the engine to replace them. Is there an easy ( less expensive ) fix ? I was told I could use block sealer, is that an option? She has appox.160,000 miles...
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M y 90 aero 3.0 heads are leaking front and back freeze plugs. I think back ones are pretty accessible from inside. How hard to change it . I changed block plugs. What size are head plugs?.
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I can't see where it's coming from but it's leaking onto my TIP. it's not a lot though.
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I've discovered a rusted hole leaking oil from the oil pan on my 2006 Sonata GLS 2.4L 4 cylinder.
Trying to find a replacement oil pan but I'm not having any luck online. The oil pan for the 3.3L is for sale everywhere, but not for the 2.4L.
Googling suggested the OEM part number might be 21510-25051 but I can't confirm that?
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I was driving back home from work and I happen to notice smoke. Oil is coming out of the top of the dipstick hole not the bottom o ring. It seems the crank is building too much pressure . It's a 1990 5sfe so it does not have a pcv valve,ithasa pcv system which is basically a hose from the valve cover to the throttle body.
This does not happen initially when I turn the car on from a cold start. I turn it on leave it at idle for a while and even rev it up and hold it high. It starts to leak after about a 2 mile drive and the car is at running temperature. I removed the hose on the valve cover when the car was at idle and a good amount if air blows out when at idle now when I rev the car up the air blowing out drops some.
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We now have a new problem. Motor is leaking antifreeze out of what i will call a weeping hole in the on the #5 cylinder side of the block. The hole, which is manufactured in the block. Is where the antifreeze is seeping from. The hole is located above the bottom bolt an just below the top bolt for the transmission. the hole is on the block. I think that there might be a freeze out plug on the back of the motor block where the leak is coming from. The block was not leaking before we removed the heads for valve job.
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I've looked at [URL] at the three primary hitch receivers for the 2013 RX 350; Curt, Hidden, Draw-tite.
From the side profile picture which etrailer displays for each, the Curt has one hole and the other two have two. Those two appear to be different sizes. The one on the Curt seems to appear smaller than the larger of the other two holes on the other two hitch receivers.
I called etrailer and the person I spoke with could not tell me why they were different, they just read the specs I see on the page, tongue weight, load, blah, blah.
With my hitch, I will need to haul a Yakima trailer, about 450 Ibs total, it is a very lightweight trailer, or a 2" Yakima bike rack. Maybe some day, I'll need to haul something of substance, but I have no plans.
I'm also wondering if a hitch which is recessed back, will it be difficult to work the pin in and out?
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I was driving my Dad's Camry in the rain and at one stop I heard what sounded like the anti-lock brake noise and vibration. Heard it again when stopping on leaves. Didn't think much of it until I started noticing the same noise when the road was dry and clear. All the stops were gradual, from under 30 mph. The car stops fine, less the noise. I hear the noise approx 1 stop of 3 or 4 regardless of road conditions or weather.
What's the cause? Since it relates to the braking system is this something I should have the shop look at asap? This is a 2005 but with under 60,000 miles. Has been well maintained.
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I got a piece of bolt stuck in the trans pan bolt hole, how to get that out if there!
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I have a 2006 Camry (manual transmission) w 165K miles.
Within the last year or so, it has gotten louder, more noticeable at higher speeds. Almost sounds like a hole in the exhaust. However, shifting into lower or higher gears doesn't change the tone of the noise. Taking it out of gear completely doesn't have an effect. However driving faster does. So I'm pretty sure it is drive train related .
Does this sound like a wheel bearing issue?
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I have a 1994 Chevy S10 truck. I been having some problems with it.I was having transmission issues with it (I posted on that one before) , but now it has started leaking oil and I would like to know why. The color of the oil in the oil leak is dark brown and oil gauge is giving me odd readings. For example, when I start the truck the oil gauge says it is half full (40), but it warms up and I am in stop and go traffic it drops to 20. But, If I step on the gas the reading goes back to 40 again for a while and then drops back down again. I thinking about just getting a different truck because this one is becoming a pain to fix, but I would still like to know what could be wrong with it.
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