I am new to Toyotas and recently inherited a 94 Camry. When the door opens a chime starts and does not go off until the door is shut. Looking at a wiring diagram it appears that only the courtesy light operates off the door switch.
View 4 RepliesOn the passenger side where the door opens up the paint seems to be scraping off... It's pretty noticeable on my black car. It's only this one side.. The door doesn't touch that piece so I'm not sure what caused it.
View 8 RepliesI stored my Camry over the winter, and it didn't do this before being stored.
Whenever I drive the car, park, remove the key, then open the door, it makes a single "ding" sound then stops. This has happened every time that I can remember.
Is this a warning sound for something? The tires are all filled, the bulbs are all fine... Very confused. The headlights have been in the "Auto" and "DRL Off" positions with no change in the chime, I think.
Ok I have an 09 Camry and the door chime is driving us nuts when we unbuckle our seat belt. My husband says it chimes 45x!! How can we disconnect it...tried something I saw online and it was a no go for an 09. My mechanic thinks he is going to have to cut the wire or something-he thinks disconnecting fuse will disconnect other stuff.
View 3 RepliesOver the weekend I installed a LOC and amplifier w/sub to OEM stereo in 2013 Camry SE. System has touchscreen and navigation. Prior to installing I disconnected the battery so I wouldn't have any surprises. Well, I got one anyway. After everything was reassembled, the car now chimes when the driver side door is opened (haven't checked passenger door) even when the key is out of the ignition. This happens even after remotely unlocking the doors. It looks like there is an option to remove door chime when opening the door. I know this doesn't apply to when leaving keys in car.
View 1 RepliesSometimes my door chime will elert when I shut my car off (push button start ignition) and I notice the flashing key on the dash flashes yellow. It doesn't happen all the time however. Is this a sign that my key fob battery needs replacement?
2012 V6 Camry owner
All of a sudden this morning on my way to work my door chime starts going off, every time I turn left it seems. I have a 2004 Santa Fe ....
View 2 RepliesI'm trying to get an F150/1997 started that's been sitting for about 2 years. After installing the battery, turning the key, nothing happens. No click, no turnover, nothing. The dash lights come on along with open door chime.
What to check first or troubleshoot this? The vehicle was running fine when parked, battery removed. I was thinking the brake pedal switch might be corroded, or maybe someone unplugged something under the hood or tampered with something.
2005 BMW X5 3.0i I've already checked the child lock. Door opens fine from the inside but I can't open from the outside. Door handle doesn't feel loose or anything. I am going to open the door panel?
View 8 RepliesJust bought a 1994 Camry Station Wagon, 84,000 km (53,000 miles) in very good condition. The two pre-owners used to keep car in garage inside the house, I keep the Camry out on the street.
Currently, I am experiencing the following problem: When it is cold outside (this is 20 to 25 degrees F), the car would not start the other morning. Everything inside the car is working (i.e. lights, radio, fan, sunroof etc.), a sign that battery is in good shape. Before buying the car, the owner replaced all the expendable parts you can imagine. Once it is getting warmer, the car would start perfectly well.
In the Consumer Guide I read the following about starting problems in the trouble spots section (referring to the 1992-1996 Camry series): "Hard starting: Hard starting after cold soak is due to ignition-coil voltage leaking to an inappropriate ground." All models, not a specific year.
On this thread I just found a comment posted on Jan. 31, 2004 by "yotatechie04", saying that - obviously - a similar problem occured to him on a 1999 model, and he found it had to do with "oil density".
Question: Is hard starting - for example after a cold night - a well known problem to 1994 model? What about the hint regarding "ignition-coil voltage leaking" and "oil density". What can be done?
94 camry. 4 cylinder. Coil is located on the strut housing along with the ignitor. The car was running, but overheating.
The last time it ran, it overheated badly, but was parked right away. Fans never came on.
The radiator was leaking, so that was replaced. And since the fans hadn't come on, the temp sensor for the fans, in the bottom of the rad was also replaced.
Now it won't start. It cranks over nicely, and acts like it is missing spark or fuel.
It has spark. Determined by pulling the coil wire from the center of the distributor and checking there.
I used spray starting fluid by pulling the tube from the end of the throttle body and spraying in there. The spray starting fluid should have at least caused a cough or two, if not a short start and run then die... if fuel delivery was the problem.
I have tried it with the temp switch on the manifold connected, and then disconnected. Also tried jumping that connector, so I don't think that temp switch is the problem. (It's the temp switch that has the green connector.)
I am assuming the ignitor and coil are good, otherwise I would not be getting a spark from there.
In Jan my 94 Toyota Camry started having issues with starting- for instance, I would run an errand for 10 minutes get back in the car and it wouldn't start. However, this tended to be random. When this problem happened more often I took it in and they said I needed a new starter so I got one (Feb) and didn't have any issues for a month, but then began to have the same issue on and off again. I took my car back in for the second time and they said it must have been a bad starter. They gave me ANOTHER new starter (Apr) and my issues continued soon after. I took it back in and they didn't have an answer for me other than the starter was good. Took it to another mechanic and he had the car for two days and could not find ANY ISSUE with the car. I let it brush over during the summer months because I never had this issue (June-Aug) and now that it's gotten cold again I'm having this problem.
Few things to note: -Anytime I have this issue I'll hit the starter with a hammer and it will ALWAYS start. This has been the case since January.-It ALWAYS starts in the morning and when I get back in my car after working all day. However, if I were to run errands in the morning or at night it would not start with the stop and go. -This only happens in the cold months -They tested the newest starter and they say there's nothing wrong with it.-Within the past two years I've had MANY things replaced on this car and any shops I've taken it to say it's a great car with no issues they can find.
I have a 2004 Prius. Just rolled 120k today, still running like a champ, but I started having this weird issue. Whenever I walk up to the car, it opens by itself.I dont even have to put my hand on the door handle, I just get close to the drivers door and it opens, of course with the smart key in my pocket. Its only the drivers door as well. I find this a little weird plus its hard to lock the door with the black square because if I don't run out of range...it unlocks.
View 7 RepliesWhen I open the hatch on my new Gen4 Prius, the hatch door goes so high that when the garage door is open (i.e., rolled up overhead rather than behind the car), the hatch door hits the garage door. I'm worried that this will both damage the Prius's paint job and make a mark on the door.
Is there a way to adjust how high the hatch door goes when it opens? The only alternative I can think of is to put some padding the garage door and/or the edge of the hatch door -- which doesn't seem like a satisfactory solution.
I just bought a new Prius V and love it. The only think that I'm annoyed about is the car beeps when I have the lights on and the drivers door open. Given that the lights are going to go off in 30 seconds anyway this beeping isn't a useful reminder of anything.
I have tried changing the auto off timer to 0 and everything works like I would expect. When I open the door the lights immediately go off and there is no beeping. However, while getting out of my dark garage at night having the lights stay on for a while would be useful.
I've been trying to work out why my 94 Camry isn't starting, and was hoping I could run a few things by you all and see if you think I'm headed in the right direction. So, here's the situation so far.
No leading-up issues of any kind. Just passed a (real) PA inspection and runs great. The car was parked just overnight, running fine the day before. The next day, it wouldn't start at all. Strong turn-over. No attempt to start. I tested a working spark plug by connecting it to the car (pulled out), and then connecting the threads to the negative terminal of the battery. While turning over, there was no spark. I then pulled the distributor cap and rotor. It appears some oil (definitely engine oil) had gotten inside from a previous known leak. The rotor contact was not super clean and looked to have some burnt up oil on it. I cleaned up all the contact points and reassembled. Nothing. Took the cap back off and tested the coil with an ohmmeter, which was all within spec. I have not tested individual terminal from the distributor, because a) I'm not entirely sure of a good way to do this and b) I doubt all four cables went bad at the same time, and if some were firing, it should be attempting to start, no? I suspect it's an issue from the distributor or before.
I had read that a coil with good ohmmeter readings may still be bad, so I ordered a new one. Should be here tomorrow.
Is there anything else I should test or look into? Oh, and is it weird that the headlight fuse keep blowing when I attempt to start the car? Does that give any clues as to the source of the problem?
Passenger door on my 93. I took some pix to try to figure out what was going on and what I'm dealing with because I'm basically having to go in blind. The door opens from the inside but won't from the outside. Awhile back it was becoming difficult to open from the outside, like you really had to give it a solid tug to get the door to open. Now it won't open from the outside at all. I noticed today that the handle is a little loose and I found out why once I looked in there: there is only 1 bolt holding the handle on instead of 2 (not sure how that could possibly be causing my problem???) For now I pushed the door panel back on and shut the door (minus screws/bolts/plates) because I'd like to figure this out soon!
Pictures : [URL] .....
When I unlock my door by just touching the handle it only opens the driver door and if I am at the passenger door it only opens the passenger door. Is there a way to open all the doors without having to take the keys out of my pocket and hit the unlock button? I want to be able to open all doors by just touching the handle.
View 10 RepliesHow I could activate the map lights to turn on when the door opens? Right now it's set for the dome lights to turn on but i dont want that.
View 19 RepliesOk this may be a dumb post, but my MK6 Jetta 2.5 SE didn't come with footwell lighting that turns on when the door opens up. I want to know if there is at least a PLACE for one that I can install easily?
or is there a way I can get a footwell lighting kit that I can buy and install?
First day that is below freezing and my rear passenger driver side door is hard to open more than half way. I really have to push it to open all the way. How to fix this?
View 11 Replies